Glad it helped! Yeah, I did address the different hole sizes for the 1-2 shift in the two different plates... I probably should’ve addressed that with a little more detail. Shift feel is very subjective, I like using the larger hole always. What some people say is firm, some say is harsh. To maintain STOCK shift feel, the right plate is a necessity. Like you said, if you’re not sure, you can order the K0192 and drill out the hole if necessary. Most of the time I’m doing a J-Mod, so those holes get opened up beyond .092” anyway. I tend to take it for granted that a lot of people want their vehicles to shift smoothly, I’d prefer barking the tires with each shift! Lol. Thanks for taking the time to comment! Hopefully the more detailed discussion regarding the K092 vs. K0192 plate will be helpful to someone in the future.

I did this and i am still having shutters

@@hambone950 your problem may be in with your OD servo Piston as these have a clip that break Where the shaft is held in place.

@@jacobmontano8938 if it where broke would the piece come out on its own?

@@hambone950 no you would have to remove the valve body to see if the servo piston has the clip in it but if it looses the clip usually it gets stuck in the valve body usually sticking a valve

Awesome! Thanks for taking the time to comment!

Sorry I’m late Andre, good luck and let us know how it goes!

Tyler, I’m glad you got it handled bud! Thanks for commenting back with your results and I’m glad my video helped you out.

Curious to if your overdrive shutter felt like a bad u joint in the driveshaft almost? My e250 van feels like a driveshaft issue when loaded pulling up a grade but the driveshaft checks out. When towing my trailer I leave OD off to save the band.

Thanks for the kind words! It’s amazing what can be accomplished with a thorough disassembly and cleaning.

@Justletmedoit did you resolve your no reverse issue? If so, what was the reason you couldn't go in reverse? Did you have to replace your reverse servo?

Good luck man! The check ball upgrade is a common one. Just remember to take your time and double check everything! Cleanliness is the key to success here.

It’s pretty simple, just time consuming and potentially messy.

Hey Jeff, first off, thanks for watching! I would always recommend the standard pressure regulator valve UNLESS you are trying to make the trans shift a little harder. It’s all a matter of preference.

Thanks Nestor, and thank you for watching and taking the time to comment!

Agreed!

Thanks! Nailed the accent too, lol. When I moved down south, I had to make a conscious effort to stop saying “you’s” and “wooder”(water). 🤣🤣🤣

Jeremy, thanks for watching and commenting. The valve body gaskets may differ from one application to another, so I didn’t post those part numbers. What I recommend is a search including your year, make, model and see what’s available on Amazon, that’s what always do...I don’t always use the same vendor either, I usually just look for the best price/fastest shipping. As for the shift solenoids, if it hits all the gears, I’d leave them alone. Very often, aftermarket electrical parts don’t hold up like OE parts do, as many, if not most, of them are made offshore. If it’ll give you piece of mind, go for it...just keep the originals incase the replacements crap out. Good luck!

Thanks! Going to check it out now.

What you’re describing sounds exactly like a misfire. It sounds like it’s time for spark plugs and possibly even a coil or two. The 10th gen trucks(like yours) would sometimes suffer from water dripping off the cowl and onto the engine. During heavy enough rain, there could be enough to get down in the rearmost spark plug wells and cause a misfire. I’ve seen it many times.

I’ve heard of guys putting 600hp through stock 4R70’s save for the J-mod. That being said, if you’re going to build one, I would look into Alto Clutches...specifically the Alto reds. Good clutches and bands(especially extra clutches) will keep you from having to go bananas with using excessively high fluid pressures to prevent slippage. Thanks for watching and commenting!

I don’t think that’s converter related. In all honesty though I have no experience with the 6R80.

Thanks for watching and commenting! Unfortunately, the 6R is a completely different animal, one that I don’t have experience with.

Thanks for watching and commenting! The main time you’ll feel torque converter shudder is when the transmission shifts into OD under light to medium throttle between 45-55mph and sometimes when downshifting out of OD. If that is when it’s shuddering, then I would definitely suggest the replacing the parts outlined in this video. They are about the minimum required as they are targeted specifically at fixing torque converter shudder. The only caveat is that I believe your truck may use a different “Tuff Plate” than in this video. In the video, I use part #K092 and I believe your truck may need part #K0192. The later models had a different sized orifice for the 1-2 shift feed hole. It MAY cause a “harsh” 1-2 shift. Five minutes of reading on the Superior Trans website should clear up any questions regarding the separator plate. If it’s “shuddering” in any gear at lower speeds than I listed, then I would start looking more at spark plugs and/or ignition coils. Ford calls for 100k mile spark plug changes, but even the best replacement plugs you can get for these trucks typically don’t last more than 80k miles. Good luck, hope this helps, and if you have any other questions, feel free to drop them here!

Carport Shenanigans what is the end of this response? youtube doesnt let me expand it

A magnet is a good idea...but I don’t think it’ll do you any favors for the rubber check balls! I like to use 2 large drain pans on top of a big drip pan...works well if you’re patient(which I was NOT in the video). Lots of brake cleaner...lots and lots. Just buy a case and be done.

If anything, the slightly firmer shift will increase durability as the quicker shift results in less time the trans is slipping clutches overlapping 1st and 2nd gear.

Thanks! It’s not as bad as a lot of people tend to think. There are a lot of resources online to help out these days also.

@@carportshenanigans5918 If I wanted to Jmod my Grand Marquis, it would be more or less the same process right?

Yeah, I would do everything from the video plus the actual J-Mod. The main pressure regulator boost valve you saw me replace in the video is a stock replacement from Sonnax, BUT they also offer a higher capacity boost valve so it ramps up pressure more aggressively...so you can have nice part throttle shifts and stronger WOT shifts...I have one on my “daily” and absolutely love it.

I believe they used both the 4R75 and 6R80 in the 2010’s. The first step is identifying your transmission. A full-function scan tool would be ideal for diagnosing it. Short of that, I can tell you it typically happens under light throttle when the converter locks, much as you describe...it also sounds like your converter may be slipping from your description...IF your torque converter is slipping under normal cruise conditions, it WILL need to be replaced. Chances are, the truck was probably driven for 50k miles with the converter shuddering. It’s a LOT cheaper to replace the torque converter before a total failure ends up taking the whole trans with it. There are a few different additives you can try to confirm that what you’re feeling is torque converter shudder. I believe one is called “Shudder-gard” or “Shudder-fix”. They’re cheap, and if there is a noticeable improvement, then you’ve confirmed the issue.

I have the exact same truck with the exact same issue. Any updates on what you did to fix it?

@@elimrqz Since using the Shudder Fix product its been all good. I HAVE had to add the product 2 more times but it lasts a year to 1.5 years each time. When it happens again I'll get a fluid change and add the product again and it will probably last longer.

I definitely would, with a tuner you get a little more flexibility with adjusting shift firmness. @Driving Intelligence just did this along with a shift kit from Superior and he has a tuner on his 10th gen F150, he may have a little more insight on that.

They definitely can make a royal mess...one time as a teen, I was laying in a puddle of ATF in the driveway while working on a car, looked like the victim of some violent crime when I rolled out! Lol

Unfortunately, it does NOT apply to the 6R80 as it’s a totally different animal.

Yes Pat, it absolutely will work. 👍

I absolutely will do a J-mod video when the next one comes along, I’m just not sure when that is. Until then, I hope this will get you by: The official J-mod how-to video by Rizzo kzfaq.info/get/bejne/nch5dK6XzdjIhmQ.html

It definitely wouldn’t hurt, but I would also order some new check balls and make sure everything is clean, like surgical kinda clean.

Hey Kirk, I’m pretty certain of the issue. Can you follow the link in the description and message me on Facebook? It’ll be much easier and faster to get it resolved.

Hey thanks for the offer. I did end up figuring out my mistake. When I was reassembling I didn’t line up the Manual shaft with the Manual valve. I dropped the pan and the valve body and got it lined up properly and it’s good to go. Thanks again for the video.

Glad to hear you figured it out. I did the same thing 20yrs ago on a old C4. That was definitely a learning experience.

Hey Shan, sounds like you might have a front pump that’s on its last leg, that’s a bit more involved than what was covered in the video.

@@carportshenanigans5918 how do I fix the issue new transmission or is it a front yard fix I already ordered everything you have in the video even new solenoids new filter I got a new torque converter because it sounded like the noise was coming from there

Without a solid, consistent fault pattern, it can be very difficult to diagnose. My first step would be to scan the computer for any fault codes, check the level and condition of the trans fluid, as well as checking the condition of all spark plugs and coil boots.

Sounds a lot like torque converter shudder! When were the spark plugs last changed?

Hey Chuck, the steps taken here are exactly the same for your Grand Marquis. Don’t waste your hard-earned cash on a converter, this will fix your issue! Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment!

That does make the job significantly easier/cleaner.

Yes it does. Comment back the next time you drop another tranny pan, let me know how it worked out.

If it is happening very rapidly, that is most likely torque converter shudder. It could also possibly be a misfire, so it’s important to make sure you’re vehicle isn’t in need of a tuneup. It is most likely not the OD servo. What the shudder is, is when the torque converter tries to lock or unlock(like on a downshift) and the friction material in the converter actually chatters...this often happens because of a break-down of the transmission fluid and/or a slight loss of pressure which can cause slow engagement/disengagement of the lockup clutch, allowing the two friction surfaces to chatter against one another. It’s a long-winded, but hopefully it helps!

@@carportshenanigans5918 Thank you very much. I do appreciate you.

With such low mileage, I’d just go with a fluid and filter change and see what that does for it…I’d be surprised if it needed any more attention than that.

It sounds like your problems all stemmed from a pressure issue, likely in the valve body. There could also be worn pin bores in the trans case that’s letting excess fluid to pass the servo pins, causing a loss of pressure in the circuit. At this point, you’ll most likely be better off with a replacement unit with converter.

@@carportshenanigans5918 Yes Im sure it was a pressure issue, I appreciate your expert opinion. The overdrive servo pin was really sloppy and I believe it was the pressure valve in the valve body that was hanging up. thanks for the reply.

Sadly, the 6R80 transmission is a totally different animal and the fix here is not the same. I have yet to mess with the 6R80 trans.

Absolutely, as long as it’s confirmed to be torque converter shudder and not a misfire. A torque converter shudder will (typically) feel like a few bumps when the converter is locking and can feel a bit more harsh when unlocking- like when adding a little throttle just like you described. A misfire you’ll be able to get to last a lot longer at that speed & load, especially if on a slight incline- although it will typically be very inconsistent. Hope this helps!

Parts list begins @0:32

It sounds like your E250 would be a good candidate for these fixes. Even fluid flushes can leave a ton of debris in the valve body. I’ve actually “fixed” some other brand transmissions just by fully disassembling and thoroughly cleaning the valve body and all the valves. These transmissions are notorious for wear on the main pressure regulator valve that tends to cause a pressure loss across the board, some are hard anodized to prevent that, but it’s hot or miss as to what units they were installed in. Good luck!

Any suggestions on how to order the parts? Seems like they only sell to licensed shops. Guess I just got to figure it out trying to do some more hunting. Thank you for responding I really really do super appreciate it. The info you provided is beyond helpful!

I always order mine off of Amazon.

To be honest, it sounds more like spark plugs. At 160k miles, it’s likely about time for its second set. I would also start looking at the possibility of one or more ignition coils as well. I say this because torque converter shudder can only happen in 4th(sometimes 3rd on rare occasions). The converter does not lockup in any other gear but 3rd and 4th. Regardless, it sounds like time for a proper scan tool to view real-time data in order to get an accurate diagnosis.

I doubt it, it sounds like you may have some other issues that need to be addressed first.

The ‘01 GMQ has the 4r70, but for this process it really wouldn’t make a difference. I would probably suggest against the J-mod, it’s not typically a mod for the elderly. Lol

I purchase tires based on the color of smoke they produce and what sound they make while smoking. I ain’t afraid…..🤣 Thanks for the info. So I located the Sonnax parts today but not quite sure about the separator plate…. Do you recommend the 092 or 192? Just looking for reliability. Thanks. I appreciate your response.

Definitely go with the 092 separator plate, it’s got all the correct size holes for the 2001. The 192 has a smaller 1-2 shift feed or exhaust hole and can cause a sluggish or weak shift on earlier models. Conversely the 092 plate on a later 4r70 can cause a firm 1-2 shift under light throttle when cold. You can use the 092 on the later models without issue, but using the 192 plate could cause problems on the earlier models. I say “early” and “late” without certainty to a year model change. I DO know an ‘01 CV/GMQ takes the 092 plate and an ‘04+ Truck *should* have the 192.

Thanks. I appreciate you sharing your experience.

Which separator plate is good for a 2000 ford expedition 4.6L V8 Triton XLT with a 4R70W

At the beginning of the video I go over all the parts used.

That sounds very much like the early stages of torque converter shudder. The truck in the video did that about 4yrs and 20k miles prior to me making this video. At the time, it was ONLY during the 4-3 downshift at very specific speeds and throttle inputs. Basically, a condition they never experienced during their normal driving, so I left it alone at that point.

Great question Joe! There is one sure fire way to check, and that is using a full function scanner like a snap-on where you can simultaneously look at vehicle speed and RPM in graph format. At a steady speed, with lockup engaged (50-55mph is usually sufficient) you would look for any flares in rpm, indicating the clutch inside the converter is slipping...there is little chance of coming back from that. Another, more common way to check for slippage is to watch your tach and do pretty much the same thing as I mentioned above with the scanner. Watch for fluctuations in the RPM, indicating slippage. You will see slight RPM fluctuations during a shudder because that is actually the clutch slipping briefly with a big change in load. These modifications increase pressure to the lockup clutch, which greatly improves holding power. Also, if your fluid is very dirty, try changing it first. If your fluid is dirty AND has a strong, distinct “burnt” smell, that is a good indicator that a rebuild may be necessary. When the converter fails completely, it typically takes the rest of the trans with it... if even just because it’s pumped all it’s guts into the transmission housing and valve body.

@@carportshenanigans5918 I would like to thank you for this video. I did exactly what you said and it totally gave the transmission for my 2003 F-150 a brand new life. It is working solid now, and I am very grateful for your guidance in making that a reality for me so cheaply.

Thanks for the kind words Joe! I’m glad you were able to get it taken care of. Automotive repairs can be so costly, especially if incorrectly diagnosed. This is why I like to share my knowledge and experience, to help people get done what they need to without bleeding their wallets dry! Lol

Unfortunately, not shifting to 3rd will be a different issue altogether.

It certainly will. Thank YOU for watching and commenting!

Starting @0:35, I go over all the parts with part numbers. I typically buy everything through Amazon so I can get the vendor with the best price/availability.

@@carportshenanigans5918 thanks. I ordered them yesterday from amazon

Good deal, sorry it took so long for me to get back to you!

@@carportshenanigans5918 its all good man

@@carportshenanigans5918 so I put the parts in today and it fixed the shudder but now I have a slip between 3-4 on the shift it will jump up about 500 rpm before 4th engages

That’s good to know! Thanks for dropping some knowledge on us, I appreciate you taking the time to comment. 👍

A little routine maintenance goes a long way. The shudderfixx is just a band-aid though. If you don’t plan to keep the vehicle another 20-30k miles it’s an okay stop-gap measure.

@@carportshenanigans5918 Yeah,I’m trading it in for a 2021 Subaru Outback

Nice! Good luck and congrats on your upcoming purchase!

If you’re talking about the little cup shaped metal piece that came with the Super Tuff plate, it does go on the tip of the 2-3 piston cover. It is best installed with a dab of petroleum jelly, the cupped end goes towards the 2-3 piston cover. Pro Tip: keep your petroleum jelly in the refrigerator so it doesn’t instantly liquify and become useless!

@@carportshenanigans5918 Cool! All of my parts are ordered hopefully this will fix my shudder, looks really simple with your really well put together tutorial.

@@tylerkline962 you got links to parts? I'm looking to do this.

@@C-commerce I got everything through eBay. He goes over all of the parts in the video and their part numbers.

@@tylerkline962 Thank you sir! Did you do the repair and what did you think of the results? I am starting to have this bog down effect and thought this would be a good fix.

Is it shifting hard, or just making a noise?

@@carportshenanigans5918 Has been shifting fine after the little 'chirp' at the shift point. But on Sunday, driving down the highway at speed when suddenly it cut out and all the gauge needles went nuts. Full tilt both directions. Pulled over, turned the key off,. Restarted and drove fine as long as I didn't get back up to highway speeds. Thank you for your reply by the way.

I would take it to a shop to have them scan the PCM and possibly do some diagnostic work. If there is a potential electrical issue, it needs to be addressed before attempting and mechanical repairs to the trans.

@@carportshenanigans5918 Will do althoughI have Torque and FORScan. (WARN) [19:59:13.953] DTCs in PCM: B2103, B1600, B1602, P0232, P1450

All the valves are from Sonnax, but they don’t sell direct to the public, so I order them through Amazon.

Do you have a required parts list by p/n that is needed? I didn’t see a list in the comments.

No, that’s a totally different animal.

It sure does, but the Tuff Plate is not necessary for an AOD-E

Yes it will, Russell. However you do NOT need the “Tuff plate” separator plate for the valve body as the earlier transmissions had a plate bolted to the valve body that prevented the 2-3 shift piston cover from dimpling or damaging the OE separator plate. Also, be sure to order valvebody gaskets specific to your truck(year, make, model).

Good question! Lubegard is a great product. I used it in my daily driven ‘01 Crown Victoria. First time lasted around 30k miles, and the second time(with trans flush) lasted about 15k miles. It’s an effective band-aid to buy you some time, but it’s not a permanent fix like this is. Lubegard is basically just an additive package that is heavy with friction modifier... that allows the torque converter clutch to slip more smoothly during engagement, it’ll actually slip a little more. Following the procedures in this video, however, fixes the mechanical issue of low apply(and holding) pressure to the torque converter clutch.

@@carportshenanigans5918 thanks

@Driving Intelligence, this would definitely be the way to go to remedy your torque converter shudder. One thing I forgot to mention, unhook the battery while you do this. Not for safety, but to allow the computer to relearn shift parameters. Many people say it’s not necessary, but I like to do it anyway. Also, if your converter has been shuddering for years, this may not completely remedy it...but this is a much cheaper and easier job than replacing a converter, even if you need to replace the converter, these mods will work perfectly with it and help extend its life.

@@carportshenanigans5918 Thank you... the shudder just started. Any other parts you recommend in the valve body while I have it out?

Depends on what you want, Sonnax also makes a main pressure boost valve that increases pressure at WOT to make full throttle shifts a little firmer. Part #4R70W-LB1. It won’t make it harsh like a “shift kit, just provide a little more pressure under heavy throttle. It works great for towing and I use them every time I J-mod one of these transmissions.

@@carportshenanigans5918 last question I hope! I have been doing alot of research. Are you familiar with the J-Mod from the Crown Vic Community? Supposed to take care of alot of the problems areas. And can this be done with the mods you recommend? Thanks!

The J-mod works perfectly with the parts outlined in the video. Keep in mind, the J-mod is essentially like putting in a shift kit. It’s easy to make it hit too hard during gear changes, if you get carried away. There is tons of information on the J-mod(archived) in the GMN and CVN forums as well as in the tccoa forums. You may also be able to find some useful info on clickclickracing forums.

Oh just to add nothing shudders or vibrates when I go full throttle on the road , so I don't think it could be a suspension problem or any maybe . Its always under light acceleration at 1200 rpms to 1500 , going up small hills at times.

Sounds to me like you may have a spark plug or ignition coil starting to give up. This is where it’s real nice to have a full function scanner to view data. Is the check engine light on?

No check engine light . This a second hand car btw, just got it 6 months ago with 60k miles . Thanks for your time just want to get rid of this shuddering n vibrating. So you don't think it's anything to do with the drive train ? I hope it's just a spark plug or fuel economy problem.

I’d say that it’s definitely time to at least take a look at the plugs. Usually by the time they’re recommended, by the maintenance schedule, they’re well worn. I always go early on my spark plug replacement, especially on coil-on-plug ignitions systems. Worn out plugs require a LOT more voltage for the spark to jump the gap. Changing them early helps prolong ignition coil life.

Thank you ! Getting 6 new plugs n cleaning out my MAF sensor as well . Hope it does the job 🙏🏾 No idling problem it's just this vibration at 1200 to 1500 rpms . Thanks for the help brother , great video once again ! 👍🏾

It depends on who you bought the valve body from. If it’s just a direct OE replacement, it will not have the aftermarket TCC bypass valve installed in this video...that’s kinda the centerpiece of the entire job.

@@carportshenanigans5918 bought it from sonnax

Sounds good, do they list any part numbers for bypass valves used? Or anything specifying they have certain fixes made to the valve body?

That’s the fix every trans shop will sell you…it makes them more money. This fix won’t “help” with it, it will resolve the issue. Just make 100% sure it’s not a misfire, the torque converter won’t do anything to cause a shutter at low speed as it only locks in 3rd/4th gears under the proper conditions. I’ve seen trans shops and general repair shops with “master techs” get fooled by a stubborn misfire.

Thank you!

Is it constant after the downshift OR does it only happen briefly during the shift?

@@carportshenanigans5918 it only do it for about two or three seconds than it okay. It does it like that every time it kick into passing gear. Thanks God bless 🙏

@@carportshenanigans5918 it only does it every time it kick into over drive. For about two or three seconds like you talked in your video like you run off on the edge of the road. On the rough part thanks God bless

Very likely it is torque converter shudder, from your description. The parts in this video should straighten it right out. Good luck!

When you do notice the issue, is it at any certain speed?

@@carportshenanigans5918 Around 30-40 mph. Just happens out of nowhere. I just “learned” today I think that apparently I have had the wrong o2 sensor in this truck for a long time now. It seems I have a downstream o2 sensor whereas I should have a upstream o2 sensor in my 1 o2 sensor spot before the cat. Smh. I just matched what was on the truck already not knowing a whole lot about trucks but learning literally everyday. Can you tell me if you’ve ever heard of this before?

30-40mph sounds a little early to be a converter shutter issue. O2 sensors from upstream to downstream are not very different on that truck… the main difference will be wire pigtail length. Both will be 4-wire heated narrow-band sensors. That shouldn’t cause your issue. To start with, I would check things such as motor and trans mounts and u-joints. Start simple and work your way up the ladder of difficulty. It can be very easy to overlook something simple in the quest to fix a “complex” problem. Good luck!

@@carportshenanigans5918 Thanks. I guess what I feel is normal for truck in her condition. I’ve kind of been working on the truck nonstop. Plugs, wires, canister purge solenoid, starter solenoid, removed cats, truck runs great now almost perfect, for about 15-20 miles. Then when I hit a hill, or even just on flat land sometimes, she doesn’t want to go over 2k rpm’s and 40 mph. Old forums have lead me to believe it’s possibly a fuel pump, or clogged injectors. Just wondering if you’re familiar with anything in that department and maybe have some insight?

Also to add, I replaced all 3 u joints about 2 months ago, solved this faint but annoying vibration.

Something like that is really hard to diagnose over the Internet. Will it do it in any other gear or in park/neutral at the same RPM?

@@carportshenanigans5918 No vibrations in N, P or OD at any Rpms but in 3rd starts around 1.8-2k it seems its getting better when over 40mph. So far I replaced all ujoints yoke (+balancing shaft), AOD tailshaft bushing and seal, new torque converter and flex plate. I also upgraded 2-3 accumulator(aluminum),super servo and B&M shift kit. Thank you for your help...I'm running out of ideas.....one last detail it is retrofitted AOD behind 289.

Hmmm...seems like you’ve already hit most of the likely causes. It wouldn’t affect it in only one year, but I have to ask anyway. Is the flex plate the correct 28 oz balance for the 289? All 1981 and later 5.0’s were 50 oz. Also, is there any noise associated with the vibration? Thumping/clunking?

@@carportshenanigans5918 Yes it is 28oz.....sometimes i can hear whistling sound coming from i think transmission since i never hear that with C4, i can barely hear it, but no Thumping/clunking.....im getting some parts for the valve body today maybe ill see something suspicious when i take it apart.

@@carportshenanigans5918 Is the play in outershaft normal? kzfaq.info/get/bejne/jbhyZbiG0r-ykoU.html

Sorry for the late response! If it feels like it’s shuddering into ANY gear, than you have other problems. Torque converter shudder can only happen when shifting into or out of OD or 3rd gear(3rd gear converter shudder is EXTREMELY rare).

@@carportshenanigans5918 do you have an idea on what it is?

@@hambone950 my first step would be to confirm there are no misfires. Fords of this era can experience misfires without setting a check engine light. I forget the exact number, but the PCM has to record 15k or 16k misfires on a specific cylinder before setting a code for a misfire on that particular cylinder.

@@carportshenanigans5918 i replaced the coils, coil pack and plugs. It shuttered really bad after replacing them it wasnt so pronounced. this will be my second tranny flush. also there was a lot of metal, grey, in the pan and all over the valve body.

Only if you’re going to change your fluid and filter every 10-15k miles, even then it’s questionable once you get over 100-150k miles. Also, changing your fluid doesn’t fix worn pressure regulator valves or cracked separator plates.

Absolutely it does!

Hard to go wrong in the great state of South Carolina! Lol

Yours wouldn’t happen to have been an ex-police car, would it?

@@carportshenanigans5918 yes

I had a feeling, they seem to beat the plates pretty good as those cars often live in the WOT 2-3 shift zone.

@@carportshenanigans5918 I wanted to come back and say thanks for the video. I was surprised at how much better it drives now.. and no more torque converter shudder. I was having some light shudder at like 38-45 mph (when the rpm's are low in OD) and it's cleared up. Thanks!

That’s awesome! Glad to hear you got it handled! Thanks for sharing your results too!

There are unnecessary items in the Zip Kit, also the 2-3 accumulator stiffener plate requires drilling and tapping the valve body. The Tuff Plate is a drop-in seperator plate that doesn’t require drilling and tapping. Drilling and tapping a valve body is just another potential issue for the DIY’er. As for the OD servo snap-ring failing....I’ve NEVER seen that happen, not once in countless 4R70/75’s. Is the updated servo pin you’re referring to the one with o-rings? Unless you’re trans case is completely worn out, that pin won’t go in without cutting the o-rings. Also, I don’t want the average Joe pulling his OD servo out for no good reason then not being able to land the pin back in the OD band. That’s an easy, EASY mistake that leaves you with no OD or manual 2nd gear. I’ve been down those roads before! Lol. Just because a company produces a part, doesn’t mean you need it. I’ve seen many 200k mi 4R’s that don’t need anything more than what I did in this video.

Carport Shenanigans I’ve personally seen a ton of 4r75 transmissions with that overdrive band dropped because of a broken snap ring. In time it does wear the guide hole and eventually hammers the hell out of that snap ring. I just changed the one in my 07 crown vic and pieces of the inner spring were missing. I used transmission assembly lube prior to installation, so if you carefully do your deal instead of just jamming it in, it’ll seat the o-ring properly and it slides right in. My car has 115k on it, so you aren’t going to tell me that my case is wore out at installation of that pin. The way you were searching for those 8 check balls in that valve body indicated to me that maybe you haven’t had that many AODE/4R70/4R75 valve body’s out. I can pull them 8 check balls out and place the new ones back in blind folded. The 8 updated check balls also come with the zip kit. That number 7 check ball is a problem child.

Well, I can only go based on the units I’ve had hands on. Make a video showing the scenario you’re talking about, I’d love to see it. Also from my experience, all the lube in the world wouldn’t make that servo pin slide in. Also, I’m pretty well experienced with installing O-rings. Lol. I never install an o-ring dry. I thought that was common knowledge.

Carport Shenanigans I’ve never had an issue getting an updated servo pin in, so I’m not sure why you’ve had trouble. My overdrive band itself busted, so during the rebuild, the updated servo pin was removed and guess what was still in place? The orings on my Sonnax servo pin. Lol

Probably because the pin bore was worn...that IS the exact purpose of those “updated” pins. I know you refuse to believe that your pin bore was worn, but these pins fit almost as tightly as a valve in a valve guide...at least in a 4R70! Maybe you had a defective case, I don’t know what to tell you.

Absolutely it will.

No sir, 4R100 is a whole different animal.

Sorry Art, that’s a totally different animal.

Most of that issue is due to wear of the main pressure regulator valve, so yes the items in the video will fix that issue. Being a van application, I’d recommend a Sonnax line pressure booster kit if you’re in there anyway, it goes in the same bore as the main pressure regulator and increases line pressure proportionally to demand. It’s a good HD improvement. Sonnax main pressure regulator Part # 76948-09 Sonnax line pressure booster Part # 4R70W-LB1

@@carportshenanigans5918 Thank you VERY much for your reply! I actually after looking at rebuilding my valve body did some looking around and found the last Sonnax 095HD valve body for my van on Rock Auto for $283 so I grabbed it. Everywhere else it was about $600ish. Those upgrades are in the new valve body I ordered. It comes with the 1-2 accumulator HD springs and I am planning on replacing the 1-2 piston and the same with the 2-3. Are the beefier CT Powertrain purple spring for the 2-3 a good upgrade? Also I have found both pistons in the Sonnax variety. Is there ANYTHING else that a guy should change while the valve body is out. I am NOT a tranny guy nor able to tear into anything too complicated in that respect. This is a 2001 E250 I am converting to a camper van and tow vehicle. I love bulletproofing things as I am able. Once again TYVM for responding as I saw your video was older.

That valve body is a good buy and can save a bunch of hassle. The upgraded 2/3 shift spring should be perfect for what you’re doing. The only other things I might recommend for your application is an auxiliary trans cooler and a trans temp gauge. These transmissions shift best between 160-200 degrees. Below that the fluid is still a little viscous and if you run over 210* for any length of time you start to cook the fluid and will need to perform more frequent fluid changes. Good luck on your camper/hauler build!

@@carportshenanigans5918 That's funny you suggested those things. This van is like all original mechanically. The yellow plug was still in the pan when I changed the filter and fluid. It has a tranny cooler factory but I replaced all the lines and added a filter adapter and plumbed it through a PH8 (big chevy filter) so I shouldn't have to drop the pan in the future. I also added a transmission temperature pressure sender which is threaded into the Line test port but just playing with the gauge it didn't come up much with reving in the shop. I also added a temperature probe into a bung I welded into the trans pan. So after everything is done I will get it out and drive it. It is a huge pain to get in and out of the garage so after I get the valve body and such in and calvan the motor along with tune up and all hoses I will see how it runs and drives. Outa be WAY better than the old original parts and such. Thank you very much for your help!

Lol, nice! Sounds like a good little setup you’ve got. Between the valve body and the shift spring, it should feel better than new. Glad I could help!

No, I didn’t make any changes to the separator plate. I was looking to maintain stock shift feel...if it was mine, I would have drilled some out to firm it up slightly.

@@carportshenanigans5918 Just got my plate today, will have to compare it to my old one, thanks for the comeback, I also got all the valves you did plus the overdrive valve from sonnax

@@carportshenanigans5918 I also bought the sonnax overdrive servo regulator

It will definitely work, BUT, with that low-mileage I would just change the fluid using Mercon V. If it still does it or comes back shortly, try adding a bottle of shutter-guard to it. I used that stuff on my personal car early on and it lasted 30k miles the first time and about 10k the second time. That’s how I knew that it was time for me to stop trying to band-aid the problem and fix it right.

Karen, Mini Coopers are a total pain to work on...Look up a vid by "EricTheCarGuy" on how much angst he went through working on his....Some ding dong thawt it was cool to build a motor all wrapped up like a Burrito...And that's purty much how you have to take it apart...Like unwrapping a Burrito 🌯

@@ToyManFlyer1100 You are right about that...Now because the mini sat for a year it got water in it and is molding. I am just going to sell for parts..uuhhggg..

That is most likely caused by the main pressure regulator valve. It will start to wear and allow fluid pressure to rise more slowly. That’s why I always replace them. Ford upgraded the main pressure reg valve sometime in the early to mid 2000’s with an anodized unit that is much more resistant to wear than the earlier ones.

I guess it’s not a fix at all if it’s still doing it, huh? Yes, you must have other issues at hand.

I think your 2010 Expedition should have the 6R80 trans which is a totally different animal.

There was a recall on the 09 and up.

It really only affects it if you have the later model without the plate stiffener under the 2-3 accumulator. Then I would, as usual, recommend the Tuff Plate and you’ll need to match up and measure the holes from your existing separator plate to transfer to the Tuff Plate. Simple stuff, just a little tedious.

@@carportshenanigans5918lol here I am watching your video, Didn’t even realIze I had already watched and commented! Unfortunately the mentioned car has since been totaled (RIP) 😢 but I’m having some odd shuttering on this new to me 2003 grand marq with about 96k miles. Would love to do the jmod but not sure if I trust it doing what it’s currently doing. Has an odd shudder that comes and goes, doesn’t seem to matter if OD is off or on and seems to happen in all gears. The whole feeling like driving over a wash board or rumble strip thing. Unsure of fluid maintainance or if it’s ever been changed. I already have 12 quarts Mercon v, filter and Dorman pan with drain plug on hand. Any input or ideas? I’m a bit scared to mess with her 😅

@@carportshenanigans5918 Also what is the diff between the jmod and the tuffplate you have there? Thanks!

Nice to know this vid was worth another look to ya! Lol. On your 03 GMQ, I would start with a good fluid/filter change, I think you’re on the right path with that. I would also try some shudder-fix. IF and only IF that cures the shuddering then you could follow the procedures outlined in this video when it starts shuddering again. You should get AT LEAST 15k miles before it acts up again, but it’s typically closer to 25-40k on average. The Tuff Plate is an extra thick separator plate that solves a potential issue where the 2-3 shift servo smacks the plate, eventually hammering the plate until it cracks and starts cross-leaks. This is typical on higher mileage units and only an issue on later models…I want to say ‘99+ but I don’t remember the exact year they did away with the stiffener plate bolted to the valve body that served the same purpose. The Jmod is just drilling out some holes in the Tuff Plate and removing some springs. For the best of both worlds in these cars, I recommend leaving the springs in and just drilling out the necessary feed and exhaust holes to the proper sizes. Quicker shifts without any harshness. I’ve heard a lot of mustang guys report the 2-3 shift being so harsh they had to take it apart to put the springs back in. I’ve not yet had that issue with the Panther cars, it may be a different calibration causing it, I can’t say for sure.

@@carportshenanigans5918 thank you for all the information. As far as fluid swap, what’s your take? Are you more of a pan drop guy, pulling the cooler line guy, or forced machine flush kinda guy? Additionally, how can I determine if it’s shudder or misfire? I’m still not sure and I’m praying it’s an ignition issue. Lowest gear I have seen it happen in is 2nd gear at roughly 30 mph when starting to go up a hill. I could be crazy, but it also seems to happen significantly more if I have the air conditioning on. I don’t have any engine codes, I don’t have any trans codes. I have tried to use mode 6 data using forscan but it doesn’t give me a ton of information. I’ve got a few 0.xx% on a few cylinders in mode 6 for various cylinders, but nothing that really stands out. I’d really love to figure out whatever the heck is going on so I can have more confidence in the car. Just did the water pump.. that was a ton of fun 😬

Good information to share, thanks Wildman.