I love life stories so don't worry! Thank you very much for your comment I do try my best as I'm merely an amateur. I believe most of the floor pan was used but with some slight alterations to the wheel base and crash areas. I think my old ones were continental CD of ebay, I've found the rubber cannot twist without cracking, drop-links ball joints are often twisting and turning as part of their function so high quality rubber is needed, Lemforder make ford suspension parts (they don't want you too know that!). Trailing arm bushes along with the rear suspension I will cover once I've got my new project a little more 'settled down' as there's a list.... I will tell you removing the subframe to change the bushes is not necessary, you will need to remove the banana shaped control arm and the lower radius arm. The trailing arm will then drop. You will need the proper tool and you can use it to remove the old one (just oil the threads of the tool and your fine). 20 mins per side to remove and push new ones in, just make a note of what angle its metal mounting is facing and make a mark on the arm so you can install the new biushes at the correct angle.

@@usuallyfixingtinkering Thanks for the advise :). I'll checkout that brand when i come to replace the links, yet again. I already replaced the trailing arm bushes, managed it without taking the frame out (was still a PITA). However whilst in there got an up close look at the frame and taillight arm to body mounting points and there quite crispy. Nothing serious but lots of surface rust. I treated the front arches last year as they were the same. Figured its probably never had any of the rear links changed so may as well drop the whole lot and give it a go over. Treat the rust, paint the frame etc. New bushes all round, new brake hoses etc. Not done anything major to it for a while so its about time!

@@stephencooper3067 That's exactly what I did with the rear, it costs more in one go but at least you know its done. You'd be really frustrated if you did everything bar a couple of arms and then have to take things off when they decide to 'go'. It can get crispy where the trailing arms sits but they don't usually rot through a good brush back to good metal, treatment, zinc primer and stonechip is my method and its worked the last few years. Just be thorough when going back to good metal and make sure all the loose stuff is gone ( when you stop seeing red dust flinging everywhere) :)

21 years young my friend :)