Thanks for always showing the least amount of steps for part removal. Your videos are appreciated.

THANK YOU for making your videos!!! You demonstrate extreme knowledge and a genuine concern and interest in the subject matter. Being a mechanic you would think I wouldn't be "afraid" to just work on my car myself, but not doing much with the car has made me unfamiliar with what's involved. You demonstrate just how simple it can be with the proper knowledge, tools, and patience giving me the confidence to do it myself.

Absolutely the best Y/T video on this subject, bar none! There's a lot of half-assed 'mechanics' posting videos on this subject! You've saved me a LOT of trouble, so very glad I found this one!

I looked all over the internet and this was the only place I could find those torque specs. Thanks a million!

Great videos Brian. I appreciate all you do for the community!! Keep it up

This explains the clunky pop I have on the passenger side of my 2011 Fusion!

I been following this gentleman for a couple years he's a car mechanic genius 🏆..

Thanks!! your video gives me the confidence to work on mine.

Great video...really liked the music in the background!

Excellent video. I installed Ford Performance struts/shocks and BMR SP763 lowering springs on my 15 Mustang GT myself. At end turn range I get pops and creeks. Especially slow parking lot speeds and turning over unlevel surfaces. It is coming from the driver side only. The car has 33,000 miles. I'm going to check to see if the bearing assembly is turning. Could I have misaligned the strut bearing assembly?

Best video I've seen for struts/springs....ever..Thnx Bubb!!

As a Mopar fan, I love that he has Mopar sprays in the background at 8:19...

great video with lighting and postioning....thamnks again....bob

Thank you for this great technical tutorial. To your knowledge, is there a way to add positive chamber to these 06 Milian, Fusion, Lincoln vehicles? Thanks.

Great video! One question please. Was the wheels alignment necessary after this job?

Hey Mac. Great videos. It's not only nice of you to post them, but really cool that you take the time to read the comments and actually respond. Thank you! I just replaced a blown strut in an '07 Escape. When I took it apart I had a cracked top bearing (gray plastic disc). I replaced the whole mount with a KYB. I wanted to go Fomoco but couldn't get one on the spot. The new mount kit came with a rubberized cup/spacer, giving it a sloppy fit. Now the top end clicks and ticks from that bearing binding up when I cut the wheel. I Did the job three times. New complete KYB mount kit with rubber cup, Old ford mount with new kyb disc bearing omitting KYB rubber cup. The third way was just re-using the old cracked bearing and old Ford mount plate. Using the old, worn, rusty parts was the only way it's quiet. What gives? is aftermarket really that crappy? BTW, I made sure to mark positions on the top plate, even lining up the old impressions in the rubber spring cushions.

I have had my struts and strut bearings replaced with OEM parts. I had the shop compress the springs for me and swap out components and keep my factory springs. I noticed while installing my assemblies back into the vehicle on the driver side the hole on top of the strut bearing plate does not match the hole on the body like you suggested due to the bearing plate installed on my spring. I have noticed a sproing noise but its very faint coming the driver side. Do I need to compress the spring and place the alignment hole correctly? If it is not done what will be the outcome. Thanks

Thanks so much for this, it worked like a charm! Removing both lower fork bolts(*both sides of the car) made it even easier to get the fork off the bottom of the strut. I would have surely removed the stabilizer links and that would have made for a very unhappy afternoon. Thanks again!

Hi. KYB is OEM good replacement? I think replace rear shock on Fusion 2008 with KYB shock absorber.

So that part you took off at 5:19 is called the damper right? I had that fall off my 2010 fusion, people are telling me I need to replace the hole control arm? I dont knlw if that's true, also can that falling off have something to do with clunking and squeaking noises? Thanks!

Thanks for a great video- replacing front struts on a 2010 Fusion hybrid- the Motorcraft loaded struts have an extra bolt on top with an E-torx head. The original struts do not have this bolt, just the 3 studs. There is a hole in the frame where the extra bolt sits but it is covered by the top plate- not deep enough to fit. The bolt seems to lock the upper bearing to the spring mount. I assume I remove this e-torx bolt for my car? These are the listed Ford OEM parts (ASTL-22, ASTL-23). Thanks for any guidance!

Ok so when I did my strut on my 07 Escalade the top strut had that same bearing it was rusted to pieces ..the new strut assembly did not come with one ..I can buy a bearing online my question would be ok to just remove the upper strut stem nut ,while it is on my truck for few minutes while I slip in the bearing then re tourque to spec. Remeber all I’m trying to do is put in the new bearing not remove the whole upper strut mount I have done that already any help would be appreciated great video in depth .

Hi, what is the number part of de strut bearing? I have a Fusion 2008 V6, Replace all lower and upper control arm and tie rods, after 6 months, a noise appears for left side. The left upper control arm is Dorman, the rest of the control arm are Motorcraft and the tie rods inner and external are Moog. The noise maybe come from the Doorman control arm? After 10000 miles? Thanks a lot Franklin

For an '09 Fusion, would you go with KYB or Motorcraft for the rear struts? The KYB are $12 each less expensive. My son's '07 Mazda 6 uses the same rear struts, and when I replaced them, KYBs are what came off it from the factory. I replaced them with Sachs, but now I can't seem to find those in-stock anywhere.

I like your background music!

Great video, this will help me with my wife's Milan, it growls when it turns, I am guessing the bearings are out. I doctored them by spraying lithium down into the top but it no longer helps, lol. However I will be using loaded struts, so even easier.

Thanks for this video. My daughter's away at college... just got her an '09 Fusion early Oct...now w/ 117k miles. Got alignment in November due to slight pull to the left. It has less expensive Hankooks from previous owner, and the fronts are right at needing replacement (low tread), but the rears have plenty of tread but there's some cupping on their inboard edges (not real noisy...I notice but daughter doesn't). On these cars, is it a no-brainer it's time to replace the rear shocks before the tire noise gets worse, or could it be just the tires not balancing well? I do my own suspension work. What about the front struts? Should I go ahead & replace them, too? KYB currently has a $40 rebate available if buy all 4 at the same time. Before I saw the rebate, my plan was to replace the rear struts and the 2 front tires, then get the remaining tread life out of the rear tires but I'll have them dismounted and swap sides to hopefully quiet them. Any advice is appreciated (btw, in Alabama, roads r decent and no salt).

Great video .....Would a 2014 Ford Taurus be similar?

for the most part also applies to a 1st Gen Mazda6

im getting an annoying squeaking sound coming form the top of my strut. when i push down n the side of the car i can see the rubber inside the top of the strut squeezing and i think thats making the noise. is the rubber meant to be seen to squeeze or is it meant to be solid. annoying thing is i recently replaced my struts but not the top mount and bearings.

That nut on top of the strut at 7:26 that you said "not to touch" in the middle of three other nuts moves around in my car when i turn the wheel and at times it scrapes against the metal part of the mount of the car. It does not look normal and i get a lag when i turn on rights or change lanes on the freeway. I even was able to unscrew it with my finger... please i would like some advice on what to do. thanks

What about using a full strut assembly instead just changing the top bearing?? Do the back struts on the Fusion ever need changed??? Thanks.

Hi,great video. I would like your opinion on this. The MONROE 172261 Quick-Strut is listed on some sites as to fit only the 3.0 V6 while some other sites list both the 3.0 V6 and the 2.3L I4. Like you said in another comment maybe the coil spring strength is the only difference. The weight difference from what have found is only 184lbs. The V6 weighing 335lbs. and the I4 weighing 3175lbs. The struts themselves(MONROE 72261 OESpectrum Strut) have the same model number listed for both engine sizes. FCS 1335543L and FCS 1335543R is the only other brand that list the 2.3L I4 quick mounts for the same price. So my question is: Wouldn't the Monroes work fine if it maybe has a slightly higher coil spring rating? Also,what is your opinion on the FCS brand? Engineered in Michigan but made in China.

What happens if you don't line the holes to on the plug but still manage to get the strut assembly installed will it clunk or create additional issues

I replaced struts and strut mounts on my 06 fusion, all motorcraft and still hear clunking noise. I however, didn't mark anything when replacing them. Could that be the cause?

Be careful with having background music.. unless it isn't copyrighted. Lol youtube is all about throwing around the strikes these days. Thanks for the information and how-to. Got my car back on the road!

What’s your opinion of the build quality of Ford vehicles vs other makes?

Great video thank you. Good, clear explanation and lighting. This was very helpful, you rock. \o/

Is there a good reason to do all this when loaded assemblies are pretty affordable?

Could you tell me if he also had it bind sometime when actually turning so he felt like it getting stuck sometimes when driving?

as I said this noise only started after getting new tyres and a alignment. its sounds like sway bar link or strut top mount but I've replaced all and double checked every thing,I've researched hyundais and other cars but most noises are sway bar bushings end links,need help

Hey man I really like your videos its very helpful to me personally although, I have a 07 Escape XLT that's not driving it like it used to in terms of hard acceleration. I was thinking its probably going into limp mode. Especially driving at high speeds it would not rev up like it used to. To make it simple it feels sluggish and not tourqy enough, unlike before. now driving it, I noticed recently the check engine light would sometimes Flash just in battery mode, not one started (cranked). i just replaced the whole right front axle because the tone ring was broken off. Here are some codes that are coming up: C1234 wheel speed RF input signal missing, U2023 malfunction received from external node. so I don't know if it's a bad sensor or bad abs module. I really thought fixing the Broken tone ring would have solved it but it did not. therefore I'm asking you as a Ford mechanic for your input or any best advice, before taking it to the dealer? Thanks!

Whats that rubber piece called that goes on the lower strut manafold

Ah ha! that was the problem. Thanks for the vid.

Great video! I'm about to attempt mine. I'm not sure if it's the same issue, but my clunking sound happens at low speed while driving straight, on not so smooth roads.

I replaced my strut bearings on my bmw because they were all kinds of ripped but the popping is still there. Nothing is moving but sounds like the spring flexing when i turn left and right or hard into a turn flexing the car please help my local bmw show replaced the power rack 2,900$ and that wasn't it now im still stuck with the popping and pissed at them.

I have a noise in the rear sounds like strut ,when I say everything I mean the lot even took sway bar off still no luck,it started after getting new tyres,can if not adjusted properly the rear control arms witch have a eccentric bolts cause this knock if not adjusted properly, replaced,struts springs top mounts rubber seats,sway bar bushings end links knuckel control arms eccentric bolts,trailing arms and checked and torqued all things to specs,or could car have been alined not being under laiden,manual say to have car on the ground so suspensions have pressure, only on uneven ground this noise like strut is loose,going over speed humps its OK,I've checked all no luck do you have any idea

I can hear it creaking really bad when it’s warm out. I want to know how much this costs. I told myself when I got my 2010 I was going to try and let a mechanic fix it. Too modern for me So cost?

This helped a lot. Thanks!

Great video. Thanks!

Excellent video. Thanks for doing this. I may pick up a set of spring compressors next. Just bought a rear-brake piston depress kit. Are the rears as easy to do as the fronts? Are the Motorcraft struts a good replacement, or do you recommend another brand? Back when I was into mustangs (had a 2003 Premium GT) Tokiko blues or Bilsteins were recommended. Thank you!

I've been to 2 Ford dealers who can't figure this out. Can anyone recommend a dealer and mechanic in Chicago area that can diagnose and fix this issue? Please.

Thanks! Very helpful.

Nice job.

Well done.

Noise of strut bearing is loud? What part replace?

Forgot is add it is a 2007 Fusion SE with the 2.3L I4 engine.

Do you bother putting the car on the alignment rack after struts on these cars. Looks like nothing really changes, is the camber adjustable like the old Tauruses and Mustangs on top with breaking the plates off and moving them? Sucks they still use that pinch bolt design style, I always heat them up after previously breaking many on the older Tauruses in the rear. Its nice to see the entire front suspension doesn't have to be disassembled like the older Tauruses.

I have an 07 fusion. Can a bad strut leak causing what I can only describe as black grease. The grease is getting flung at the edge of the wheel area under the door. The sound it makes is like the sound you make when joking about people having sex in a old bed (sorry. couldn't think of anything else). I hear the sound at slow speeds and the sound gets worse after I fill up with gas. I tried the bounce test I always hear about but it seems fine. Upper and lower control arms have been replaced. Could it be something in the strut or assembly? I'm at a loss.

Hi....really need your assistance. I have a 2009 ford focus, there are noises coming from under the foot both on driver and passenger side any time it goes on a bump no matter how little.This noise is a clunking noise. Below are all what have changed on the car: The inner tie rod Sway bar link shock absorber Complete control arm anti roll bar busing. Kindly advice on what the problem is

Also, I'm loving the Christian music in the background!

Great video thanks for the infor

Springs scare the crap out of me, ever since I saw the window regulator spring from a 77 Chrysler Newport coupe suddenly unwind. I was glad no body parts were in the way.

I am more in awe at the rust on that 3 year old car. Mine is 2006, 14 years old now and has no rust anywhere. I live in Wyoming too. We got winter.

Hey, haven't been on FFC in a while. I don't have speakers on this computer so I can't hear your audio. Is this a clunk sound as you rotate the steering wheel? I have one presenting on my 2010 that is usually when I first start driving, such as pulling out of my driveway or backing out of a parking stall. Thanks again for the helpful videos. Made a big difference when I replaced my filler neck (only to discover the problem was the purge solenoid...)

Looks like one of the easier struts to replace. No alignment required

Awesome video.....!!!!

Awesome, thanks!!

will that cause uneveñ tire wear

I'm on my 3rd set of quick struts from monroe. Only the right front clunky over light bumps. So I put the old strut assembly back on and knocking goes away. sigh.

Well that's my first...never done a mkz strut bearing but a lot of montegos/Taurus... Did I spy a wds? what the hellll,,,don't tell you guys still use it?

Thanks so much for the video- bought the "quick struts" and was an easy change thanks to you!! Replaced struts and rear shocks in a half day, but still have a "squeak" on the front driver side...thinking a ball joint issue. 2009 Ford Fusion with 130,000 miles. Any videos to help with that?

i added a slim peice of teflon sheet 3 mm thick to add some way so it can turn on its axes better.. then painted the area. to slow any rust that might form later on

Bought a brand new whole strut assembly for an older Taurus and they are noisy. I sprayed the mounts down with silicon spray and it helped a lot. The suicide sticks scare me. Hope they aren't the $12 HF specials! The ones I rent seem beefier and have a locking pin. These seem to flex under tension. In a class I took I saw someone tightening them up and they moved toward each other and make the spring bow out. Scary. Whoever works with them should be extremely cautious.

Are Monroe quick struts any good? My fusion has 175k with oem suspension parts. Debating on the quick struts but wondering if their strut mounts are worth a darn along with the steel quality in the springs it comes with.. In your experience do you suggest quick struts?

I can not find the circle bearing that you're talking about anywhere... can anyone help me find them? post a link maybe?

Is an alignment required after replacing the strut?

I have a 08 fusion. has a noise when you tap the gas, release the clutch. and sometimes when you shift. it doesn't affect driveability, has a few people including me stumped.

2011 ford fusion FWD 40k by the way.

I have question brother?

Hit a speed bump hard and start hearing a cluking noise knew it wasn’t the axle because I just replaced them looks like my passenger shock is blown 😂

can you change just the bearing?

Bro, I want front RH and LH shock absorber with coil spring for my Ford fusion 2009 1.4diesel tdci If it is available please send to me I will pay the amount Because its production was Stop

The bong! Noise. Broken springs all day.

"bwong" good video

Is this expensive to fix?

You really should invest in a strut tamer spring compressor ... way quicker and safer.

I wish I BYS lift

This is why I buy loaded struts f that Brian lol

ur Ford dealer looks just as old as the caddy dealer I work for

That yellow piece is a culprit in most cases. It is a stupid design and worst, there is no cap on the top of a strut under the hood leaving the jounce bumper vulnerable to damage. Do not ever use wd-40 spray at the tensioner nut on the top since wd-40 will flow down to bump stopper dissolving all the grease inside it.

my car is a Hyundai Accent 2000 hatch

HMMM I never greased that yellow boot

what is up with ford and suspension problems, seriously, all the time

These struts can't turn. The bottom of them is a fork bolted to the lower control arm.

This is all because of bad engineering. Look at the rust where the top of the strut bolts on. Water drains down and pools onto the bearing.

Lots of GREASE for reassembly!

This may be the stupidest question ever, but if the upper and lower control arm ball joints are the swivel points, why is the strut expected to swivel? Why would the strut have bearings in it at all? I'm having squeaks and groans and creaks when hitting bumps (constant ee-er, ee-er, ee-er) and when turning the wheel but wondered if it was ball joints and came across this.

Why screw around the aftermarket offers complete replacement components. Have a strut bearing fail have a broken spring have a leaking strut? these failures come one after the other. Kick it in the ass replace the assembly you get a new bearing shock and spring done.

Nice Christian music :)