Buy the parts and tools used in this video: Moog K8672 Pivot Bushing (2WD ONLY): amzn.to/2N83EbZ Moog K8292 Pivot Bushing (4WD ONLY): amzn.to/2A3TqAW Basic Ball Joint Press Kit: amzn.to/2PZ5Uow Milwaukee Cordless Impact: amzn.to/2HS0y7S

Do not torque until full weight of vehicle is on or you will twist the bushing and it may fail prematurely

You just prevented the death rattle. Great job

Gotta love it when someone makes a video that is No Bones (No Talking Xtra BS), you just got right down to the job & explained it Plain And Simple. ..... THANKS FOR A STRAIGHT FORWARD INSTRUCTION............. Now that said this video probably is not suited for someone that doesn't know their vehicle and is already mechanical of course if your not You Better Have a Bro THAT IS or your truck will Crush You DEAD........... 1987 Ford Bronco -- Pre April so some of it is a 86 Not the DANA 44 TBB

In my experience if its time to replace the axle bushings, its also time to replace the bushings to everything else. Its easier just to take everything off. Press fit everything on a bench. then reassemble pivot axle first, radius arm, ball joints, shocks/springs, sway bar, calipers, and then tie rods. Unfortunately this costs roughly $1,500 in parts.

This video is spot on. I have been researching this bushing job and this is the most straightforward way to install new bushing....Thanx

Impact rules the world, that and a good wrench like you, well done. Thx for posting.

It sure pays to do your research thoroughly! This video was worth going through several others to find, and kept me from possibly making a dangerous error AND saving me a bunch of time, too!

Should be similar on my 1979, bushings just arrived so i'll be diving into that soon. Thanks for the vid.

Excellent video, direct to the point and no background noise, thank you great job, my brother has a 92 f150, so this is very helpful!

Very informative and concise !!! Thanks for sharing your knowledge !!!

I got a 94 and a 95 of one of these trucks great job brother !!!

Thanks, this will save me a lot of time. I needed to replace all bushings, so took out full suspension, which makes it kinda easier on angles ;).

Thanks for the video, im doing mine now, great job!

Perfect! Thanks. I'll be on this soon.

Outstanding video. I used a ball joint press and impact gun just like he shows to get out the old bushings out, however, I didn't need to hammer in the sides of the bushing. I used a 1 1/4" impact socket from my Northern Tool set and it fit the backside of the old bushing perfectly and pressed it out in seconds. This was for a 1997 F350 2wd. I was also replacing the radius arm bushings, so I ended up taking out the coil springs and dropping everything down which made putting everything back together pretty easy.

And I thought there was only one according to some other vids I've watched therefore I'm glad I watched this!

Nice video. Thank you for posting!

Nice video! To the point.

Good video, I will use it on my 91 F-250.

GOOD JOB YOUNG MAN !

I'm glad I found this video. I thought I was going to have to drop the springs to do this.

THank you A video short and to the point ...you have gained a sub

Awesome good info... thanks

And, by the way. Thanks for the video sir!!

Good job

Just did this job today on an ‘03 E150 van. Major PIA. Replaced the radius arm bushings last weekend, that was a piece of cake compared to this.

Saludos desde argentina

Thnk u thnk u thank u for this!!!

On my stock 93 EB dual shock, i found it easier to just use the press without hammering the edges. It’s only held in by a small lip.

awesome! planning to do the work this weekend and I decided to change the radius arm bushings as well. But, I do not know the part number on the radius arm, I tried to avoid removing the bushing and measuring then ordering, but it looks like I have no choice at this point... thanks for the help!

If anyone uses Energy Suspension bushings it is important to only remove the internal bolt sleeve and the rubber bushing material. With their kit the other sleeve is reused with the bushing replacements. Good idea about using the floor jack to do the I-beams. I did not think of that at first - thought about it for a couple hours before coming to the same conclusion.

3:50 Seagulls 💥 🦅 💥

Superclean undercarriage my man. 👍🏽

On some vehicles the anti rock can be located in front of the axle. Still above the frame but at a lower location allowing it to reach higher in the arc and possibly full droop

This is very helpful. Remember, (thanks Rainman Ray) we pull better than we push---think torque wrench.

Also I notice 2 mounting holes can you mount on the lower if you have a level kit to try to bring the camber back in??

The HFT electric impact is awesome IMO.

Great video bro,video quality is off the hook,what kind of camera is that

You did this without removing anything but the bolts lol nice

For some reason I thought that would have been more complicated, gonna have to go buy some bushings now and do this.

great video, I am assuming it would be the same on a 1970 F100 with 1978 Front I-beams. I think i will pop the bushing out first and insert the new one before assembly. (is the part number for 78 F100 i beam same part # I wonder (Moog K8672 Pivot Bushing (2WD ONLY)???

Hi there are those stock I beam connectors or are they aftermarket (are they the ones use to lift the truck)

What size socket was used to press out old ball joint? torque spec?

The bushings on my 92 f150 arent seated flat against the i beam, the flat end sticks out about 1/8 to maybe 3/16, both are the same, i couldnt tell if you seated it flat against the i beam?

What year of 2wd and where did you find the beam pivot brackets for a life?

The actual bracket itself on my truck is like almost sheered off, how do I get everything out of the way so I have access to replacing the actual bracket

Can it be done this way if have leaf springs

hoping i can finagle this job with mostly the hammer i have on hand.

Did you torque the bolt for the axle pivot bushing without the vehicle weight on the axle? I am about to do this and wasn't sure. I know some other bushings require vehicle weight before torquing..

Don’t let the video fool you. It can be done without the impact. In about the same time it took him to use the impact.

Would it work on a 91 ranger twin traction beam ? Looking to remove as minimum as possible

what was the torque for that nut?

Wher did you get those brackets to lower pivot bushing end of the I Beam for adjusting camber on a 3 5" lift?

For all you people still driving these old Ford Trucks I have come up with the easiest and safest way to replace Axle Pivot Bushings on your F150. You won't have to remove the tires or springs at all. You will need a set of ramps, a large floor jack, a ball joint replacement kit (Amazon $45), 2 Moog Bushings (Amazon $11 each), a 1/2 inch impact driver, an 18mm (or 13/16) wrench, a 21mm impact socket, a couple of medium pry bars or large screw drivers, a large torque wrench, a smaller flat chisel, an alignment punch and a saws all with a metal blade. Drive your truck on the ramps and set the parking brake. Take your large floor jack to the side you wish to repair and jack the truck up until the wheel lifts off the ramp. Slide under the truck, remove the axle bushing bolt with the 18mm/21mm wrench and socket. Pry the I axle beam arm down to expose the bushing and insert a second pry bar above the beam to hold it. Take the flat chisel and drive the rear metal edges of the bushing inward. If you are lucky you can take a flat end punch and drive the bushing forward by striking the bent edges of the metal bushing. (Don't try to press the bushing from the front to rear, you need to drive the bushing towards the front of the truck.) If you can't get it moving you can force out the metal core and use a saws all to cut through the rubber and slice through the metal case in two places. You might want to start with just cutting the metal casing along the rear edge and pry a little more of the edge up and try the punch again. Just a little cutting and edge prying can free it up for the punch to work. After you remove the bushing and clean the burrs out of the hole grease the new bushing and press in with the ball joint press and impact driver. It almost takes 3 hands to line up the heavy press while aligning it correctly. I used 2 hands and my big belly to do it. Don't drive the bushing all the way where the lip is flush, leave about a 3/16" gap like the factory did. Also be careful to use the right cup on the rear of the bushing so the bushing can protrude. It your bushing stops before it's all the way in you need to readjust the rear cup. I don't see how it would be possible to press this bushing in without an impact driver and ball joint press. Since you raised the one tire off the ground aligning the bushing holes is easy using the pry bar. I have seen videos of folks struggling with ratchet straps trying to align the bushing bolt holes but with the one tire off the ground it's easy. Put the bolt in and torque it to spec. The car ramps stay under the front wheels the whole time so I think it's better than using jack stands. I am a 70 year old, obese man and I could do this. You can too! Good luck!

Is the bushing two different sizes

wheres the link to the pivot bracket that has two

Will this fix an issue where the front tires are leaning? Ball joints seem to be fine and springs have been replaced, but the truck's front tires are leaning... Thanks

What size socket did you use to press the brushing Are they different sizes it shows several on rockauto

Where did yoy get the drop brackets?

How did you get the bolt out you skipped that in you video

Who makes those ibeam and Radius Arm drop down brackets that you have?

Is it the same for 4x4?

Wat size bolt 1/2in or 5/8

Would this be somewhat similar to a TTB on a 95 f250?

Think you will do a rebuild with another turbo?

Will the truck shake if there bad plez help my truck has a vibrating shake through the truck

nice video.,that’s a f250 or f150..?

How's the turbo 300 build coming along?

Does this stop the over stearing /swaying in the steering?

Why do you have brackets that can lower your I beams and I don’t

YOU CAN DO IT WITH OUT THE IMPACT DRIVER IT'S EASY

Wouldn’t it be easier to remove the springs first?

What's the spec brother?

Yeah... Tried the whole replacement without dropping the whole axle and it's a real pain. I reccomend just dropping everything and have a shop press it in. I've lost $40 in bushings from not being able to get them to go in square. Just take to shop.

Can these bushings cause a hwy vibrations kinda like a death wobble feel?

Mine wouldn’t go back in. It just bent the metal sleeve

Capo total....

Do at your own risk.. You bet....As them coil springs can be old and break on you..Worse come flying out....Why I always strapped the spring down..

prntscr.com/vv7ky6 What is this peg for that is on a ford I-beam. Is it a tie down peg?

That's not true.. we all can't afford nice impact's I used a long half inch drive rachet and small piece of pipe

YOU DONT NEED THE IMPACT... IT HELPS ALOT BUT THIS JOB ACN BE DONE WITH OUT IT.

Frame shop wanna change upwards of $400 for this job on my 1995 mazda b2300. I don't think so! Everything they do is very pricy. They should be called a rip off shop. If you have all the necessary tools to complete the job, why are you using specialty prices. If you ask me, they're a bunch of cons.

From factory the bushings have like an 1/8" gap from seating all the way, ive always have pressed them all the way in, now I'm thinking I've been doing it the wrong way. What do you think OP?