Sometimes the technical name for it doesn't make sense either so the arm with the two springs is what I go with lol. Thanks for watching

Thanks and thanks for watching

Thanks and thanks for watching

Yes the base gasket under the cylinder is required.

Did you manage to resolve why it wasn't going into 3rd?

Just rtv and no gaskets? If you left the gasket out then yes that's your problem. The thickness of the gasket is needed for clearance on the gears.

The manual for this bike does not specify a torque for these bolts. It just says to tighten them. I normally just torque them to what I normally do the other 10mm headed bolts to. That is 10 N/m or 7 lb ft.

I wouldn't think you would have run it hot. I would try a valve adjustment and see if it quites it down.

@@FourwheelerDoctor - It probably went hot. But very briefly. Could that do severe damage? The knock wasn’t there before. I’ll adjust the valves tomorrow.

@@maximusfuscus it's not good on them to run them hot but if your is one of the air cooled models which I assume it is, some of the Honda ATVs do not even have a fan like some of the 350 ranchers and the 300 fourtraxs, they just rely on air passing by the cylinder to keep them cool. I am also assuming you oil level is good.

@@FourwheelerDoctor - yes, air cooled and oil cooler with a fan. Oil level is perfect, new oil and filter (positioned correctly). Could have been oil starved? What should I be looking for of opening if again? Man I owe you a lot of beer...

@@maximusfuscus if your oil level was good it probably didn't get oil starved. Sounds like it may have ran hot unless you were traveling at a good rate of speed. the fans don't run much on these things but they do come on occasionally and we'll cool the motor off considerably as well as the oil. If you take it back apart what you need to check for is play in the connecting rod at the piston. It can move side to side but it doesn't need to have any play up and down whatsoever.

Will the gear not spin in either direction?

@@FourwheelerDoctor no

Did you take the one way bearing out from behind the centrifugal clutch? Sounds like it may be in backwards

@@FourwheelerDoctorthis compared with 04’ trx450FE? Basically same design or should I expect a large difference. Close to setting everything out of frame and onto the table. Without any prior issues with trans, had a wheel cylinder stick, son drove it back to the shop here at home from our trails. (Ran it In 2nd/3rd gear the way back) After going ahead doing front and rear brake change and flush/bleed with new wheel cylinders. I started it up, let it run a few minutes, drove it roughly 100yds then an awful noise began. I shifted to neutral with engine still running. Noise didn’t change, shifted to first and noise stayed the same. Shifted back to neutral and shut off the engine. By hand rolled the quad forward and back, no binding or noise. With quad off I shifted to reverse and 1st while rocking forward and back. All seemed fine, until I shifted back to neutral and attempted to restart engine. It made a turn over then suddenly locked down. I removed the pull starter cover, using a ratchet and socket I was able to turn the shaft backwards several rotations. Removed spark plug. Then using the ratchet I attempted turning engine over in its starting rotation. Able to make maybe 2 full turns until it locked again. Is it most likely to be only a broken gear? Or something more extreme?

The one way bearing behind the centrifugal clutch is installed in the wrong direction.

@@FourwheelerDoctor I haven’t been into the engine yet, only done the brake work. Actually the engine has never been broke into since new. Certain that something is broken internally.

I should’ve commented as it’s self instead on another’s comment. 🤦‍♂️

solo lo hace entre 3ra y 4ta marcha

gracias por su respuesta, Si, solo cuando bajo de 4ta a tercera, y no es siempre solo cuando después de bajar la velocidad aceleró fuerte, si lo hago más lento no lo hace

Bolt the star piece on the clutch side of the drum and see if you can turn it then.

What all do i need to bolt back up? I put the star pieces on and still cant turn the drum. This thing is frustrating

@@tylermadeit5396 just the star piece. A lot of times it will line the shift drum up so it will shift. Are you sure you had the forks in the right direction?

@@FourwheelerDoctor i believe i have the forks in the correct direction. The lowest. Por is facing with the letters up. "C" in the center facing up. Fr right under low gear set. This placement allowed gear dogs to slide up and down on the shaft by lifting forks up. I then installed drum lining the shift fork pins into a vein in the shift drum by barely lifting the forks. The only problem that i can see is the top or front fork is kind of binding. I have bought all three forks. Fork shaft. Low gear set

@@tylermadeit5396 are you rotating the change clutch shaft as you are trying to shift it?

It is tough to change the timing chain with the engine assembled. You can get to the chain and cam by removing the front cover but you will have to pull the push rods and hold the cam followers up with magnets before removing the cam. The timing marks will have to be lined back up once the cam is removed and reinstalled.

What I’m trying to do is replace the first gear. Do I just open everything, take the clutches/flywheel out, mark the timing and remove? Does the piston have to be in a certain position (Tdc for example) when marking the timing?

@@maximusfuscus yes the piston has to be at top dead center when the cam is reinstalled.

@@FourwheelerDoctor - Last question. How do you see it is at Tdc? You were looking at the side in the video.

@@maximusfuscus there is a plug on the right side of the motor that has to be removed with I think a 5mm allen wrench. This will let you see the timing marks on the flywheel.

I've seen that happen on ones with gear reductions but not on factory ones. I would assume something's wrong with the gear or basketif it has a tight spot

I pulled the basket and turned the shaft and it still hits the tight spot looks like I’m splitting the case I guess thanks

@@christrent1073 I hate to say it but yes it sounds like you may have a tooth broken or about to break in the transmission

Thanks I’d say this thing has seen a few neutral drops keep doing what you do your videos have helped me a lot

@@christrent1073 not sure what year model yours is but I have a video of replacing first gear on a 2010 model. From what I understand that's a common problem with that model bikes.

Sounds like you have a timing issue. Are you sure you had it at top dead center on the compression stroke when you adjusted the valves. Were any of the valves real far off before you adjusted them?

@@FourwheelerDoctor yes the valves where off when I first messed with them. I replaced the valves and seals when I did the top end. I spun the crank by hand lined up my t mark. Both push rods where down. Installed the valve cover and adjusted valves to .006. And no luck. It will fire occasionally but not start. I wish you lived close to Jacksonville I'd bring it to you.

@@derekearnest2164 have you checked the valves since you tried to crank it?

@@FourwheelerDoctor yes they are at .006

Was it running before you took it apart?

What does your arm look like?

@@FourwheelerDoctor it's just a shaft that comes out goes through the cover and connects to the cable on the outside theres a gold colored arm that actuates in the case but no second arm like yours

I'm a little confused. I don't think I showed attaching the reverse arm outside of the motor on the video. I usually do that as I am putting the motor in. There should just be a short shaft that sticks out the back of the case with a flat spot on it. The arm that goes on the cable will line up with that flat spot. Usually the arm has "out" stamped on it. Then a bolt will go in the center of that arm into the center of the shaft to hold it on the shaft

I think I got it figured out yours has 2 internal arms mine only has one but you also have some sort of ball switch on your case that arm hits I dont have one of those either my bike is an 05 foreman footshift 2wd

@@kcwyrick7947 yes that is correct the ball switch is only on the electric shift models, the foot shift model does not have that. That is to keep the shift motor from trying to shift when the lever is not pulled on the es models