So many options!

Same! Maybe I should've done top 10!

California is on the struggle bus! 🤕

Good info!

You got a link for them parts I just picked one up 1.3 with headers, just learning about carbs 😳

@@kabbythedog9409 first thing to check is wether you have the Aisan or Hitachi carb? They will have different carb rebuild kits and there may be variations to the design and jetting. I haven't worked with the Hitachi but I'm sure would still work if applied to it's design. If you're able to remove emission components and maintain road registration or without penalty, than there is ALOT of the carb gear that can be removed which removes most of the complicated junk that makes them run crappy. If so I could somehow provide a picture of mine as it could be easily replicated from it.

@@kabbythedog9409 as for the mod, Ebay-mikuni main jets - the round type with the slotted/flat head screw if you have the Aisan carb. otherwise open carb remove, identify and look for the right ones ,slightly larger than in the carb. -depending on location and altitude, I would get a kit or individuals which include #100, 105,110,115,120 jets Ebay- carb rebuild kit to suit your carb once identified EBay or local supplier - basic vaccum guage to tune it when your finished * when removing the top of the carb to get to the jets, do not turn the carb upside down as you will lose a very important and very small spring, ball, and cap that sit between the 2 pieces. Keep it upright on a clean table with a clean floor just incase. Take as many pics for reference as possible as they will be your reassembly guide. Go slow and be patient. There's lots of good you tube videos about general carb basics (uncle tony is good) as well as the vacuum guage tuning procedure. Feel free to hit me up for more info or help. Don't be intimidated, they're complicated to begin with but if you can wrap your head around how they work and why than they become much less confusing and much more exciting to work with as all you need to tune is a guage and a couple of screwdrivers.

@@ryanfp5657 copy copy thanks, little tougher than a snowmobile carb i'm sure i can get it back together

Thanks! Lots of info to share with the next generation

Awesome, thanks!

I've heard a lot of good things about 3k

@@FortuneOffRoad Certified Machine offer a good product. The carb will run you about +200$ but it is put through tests and ajusted before sale and shipping. I've seen guys buy 50€ 3k carbs and have it run great on the first install. Other guys go through installing 3 or 4 50$ 3k carbs before getting one that works. Certified Machine kinda eliminates that uncertainty.

installed 3K carb from Certified Machine last week. Easy install.

Thanks dude!

@@FortuneOffRoad I had a lwb Suzuki SJ413 a few years to which l added front and rear ARB lockers, power steering, 6.5 to 1 low range gears, hd axle shafts and a hd clutch running on 30" tires, it was excellent offroad and all on the 1.3 engine but with fuel injection.

@@clooperman3745 Sounds like a cool setup. I love the LWB ones!

Nice!

That 1.6 is a good upgrade! I pin it sng go 30mph 😬

1.6 8v here Torque monster compared to 1.3

Exactly right! That's why I wanted to make this type of video too; I knew it was going to be different.

Thanks dude, I'm watching them

The 1.6 8v is usually more available and doesn't require a complete donor vehicle. The intake from the 1.3 bolts right up and uses the same exhaust manifold or headers. Along with a few other modifications, the 1.6 8v has the least financial impact. Add a sidedraft carb, weber 38 or possibly the sniper efi and you're on your way to stepping up performance. Getting lower tcase gears also help when adding larger tires. My 6.5:1 work great on my 33s mud terrains and I at least go 65 in 5th gear most of the time at 3200 rpms. Also the 1.6 8v is a non interference motor, so if the timing belt snaps, then it's still good. The 16v snaps, then the engine is toast. Some say the 8v has more low end torque too.

@@20tea I'm not disagreeing with you about the 8v, but there are no available 8V's in Alaska, there are still 16V's. Keeping something carbureted to me isn't even an upgrade, EFI is a huge upgrade in everyway. BTW the 16V out of a sidekick is not an interference motor, you can turn the crank sprocket all the way over independent of the crank with the timing belt off and the valves don't come into contact with the crank. The cars had interference motors.... NOT the trucks.

@CTMadModz That's new knowledge for me so thank you! I have always believed they were interference motors, buy I stand corrected. Well the 1.6 8v is much more available here in Washington state and it takes a lot less effort to swap. I happened to have 3 laying around as backup. There is also plenty of power I get out of my 8v with the weber 38, cam and headers for low-end torque. I also have a Suzuki x90 with the 1.6 16 valve and a Geo tracker with the 1.6 8v tbi. I noticed differences, but for the money and effort, the 1.6 8v isn't something to sneeze at. It's very easy to tune engine upgrades without a computer and when out on the trail with simple hand tools. Parts are cheaper and easier to find as well. Efi/mpi suzuki parts are getting harder to locate and replace for what has failed over years of use whereas Weber/Harley carbs and the sniper efi are more easily accessible from my experience.

So I am currently putting a efi1.6 8v in my 92 efi samurai and having trouble finding and 1.6 efi would the sniper efi work and if so which one?

Yeah I wouldn't either!

Yeah makes no sense. CA is a tough state to live in if you have any Jonny, I swear. The rears up front are definitely softer so you can get some sway easily. I would put one more full leaf in my pack to drive on road. Once I did hydraulic assist steering the ram fighting the swat made it un-drivable past 25mph. Sway bar would probably fix it. 🤙🏻

Sounds awesome

I hear that electric steering is killer

I released a walkaround video not too long ago. You can watch that and get some ideas, I'm sure!

As long as you have a missing link kit, I think it would be great. You can either do just shackles and stock front springs, or a full kit and use stock rear springs in the front. If you try the rears I would use a sway bar

I'm considering doing another since there are so many good mods

Yeah, exactly. Terrain, driving ability, primary use, etc... All different

Pretty good setup for leaf springs and to keep it relatively low. 2" bonzeye springs rear and rear springs with 2 extra leafs and missing link shackles up front. Works with 33s and a lot of articulation well.

@@FortuneOffRoad are the rear bonzeye springs for up front?

@ZimZam78 no they are samurai rear 2" bonzeye

@Fortune Off-Road okay gotcha. So stock rears up front with 2 extra leafs. Thanks for clarification. Awesome channel!

The event is free an no requirements. You definitely need a lift and at least 31s and lockers. It's going to be a challenge to get through but plenty of people to help. Amber Turner usually runs it. You can find the event on Facebook once she builds it. 👍🏻

@@FortuneOffRoad awesome, yeah I’m running 35’s on locked toy axles, is it in June normally?

That's correct. It's a great upgrade that doesn't cost much! kzfaq.info/get/bejne/hpt4bNSHqdvRmKs.html

It's a legitimate concern to have, but they're just like Jeeps. Once you lift them they are easier to tip over. I don't think there is any real concern though; I've never met anyone who has rolled one.

@@FortuneOffRoad Thank you for the reply, shortly after I wrote this I ran across this kzfaq.info/get/bejne/rZmjes6Bna7Jco0.html

​@Fortune Off-Road Had driven and wheeled my Samurai for nearly 20 years and never came close to tipping on cornering, but only from heavy articulation on opposite ends. Drive knowing that your center of gravity is higher is all. Between the two, for mild wheeling,costs efficiency and comfort, the tracker/sidekick would be more reasonable.

No, those are monotube right now. They are angled in due to the small space. I always try to think about future plans and I didn't want to waste the money on that upgrade since next I'll be outboarding the shocks when I do an axle swap. 🤘🏻

I do! A lot of people use those and seem to be happy

You could throw some lunchbox lockers in both ends. I have a video that covers it 🤙🏻

😬

Bought it originally for around 2k. Probably have about 7k into it. 🤑

I got a pretty ok one for 3 and got a b line on another beater lined up Good body you’re gonna pay 💰

Probably not well, expect the wheels and tires

@@FortuneOffRoad I asked because I'm trying to figure out how to get an ounce more power out of it without an actual engine swap.

No, just more drag. And more ladies trying to get the door open.

Yeah thats a fun one too!

Planning on driving on the road? It's nice to be able to drive to the trail in back, plus running errands. Extra car of one of yours breaks down, etc. But those SXS' are very capable machines!

Yeah I could see that. My YJ had them front and rear and they did some weird stuff in the rocks. Definitely didn't act like my Samurai ones. The Samurai bodies are so thin that any rust is probably going cause a lot of damage. Get one! 🤘🏻

This is obviously from someone that has never owned a lite weight samurai and obviously never wheeled one or owned 20 different ones over 25 years and built over 45 for other people ! Revolvers unload way to easy on a samurai and do not work because of the spring weight on the samurai . Best carb for a samurai is a Harley Davidson side draft . My-Side by Zuks Off Road is the best set up . Otherwise the best set up is a Efi set up off a 1.6 8 valve sidekick engine . Remove the intake and transfers it to the 1.3 ,use the wiring and ecm . Gears . Can swap gears from sidekicks and trackers and lower rear end gears from stock 3:73’s in Zuk . Run a 4:30-1 or a 6:5-1 t case gear set and run up to 35” tires . Jeep Yj springs rear with rear zuk springs up front is your best spring set up for ride ,control ,flex and handling Offroad . Nothing else beats it . Works every time . Crown Vic shocks for the win . Old school zuk guys that’s been around for 20-25 years and wheels these day in day out and don’t just key board wheel but actually build what they wheel can tell you how to build a great ,useable samurai .

I'm not sure there is a way do it. I would recommend running stock YJ springs. If you use them, you will net about 2.5" of lift though.

@@FortuneOffRoad mh... ok

Usually propane does worse in cars, but slow trail riding at low RPMs get about 10% better. If you were to drive it on the road like a normal car, it would probably be about 10-15% worse. Much cheaper than gasoline in my area, so it would still save money.

Propane is literally the safest form of fuel for a vehicle. Propane has a narrow flammability range, and its tanks are 20 times more puncture-resistant than gasoline tanks. So if you want something more dangerous, go with gasoline; the tanks puncture easily and have a gnarly flashpoint 🤯