Right on - glad it worked out! I’m sure your bumper trimming was 10x better than my hack job too! Careful adjusting it to the highest setting though. Your up-travel will be next to nothing and likely harsh (at least mine was). I moved it back to the middle setting.

Couldn’t agree more. Through trial and error I still landed on the middle setting to keep my ride height where I wanted it. And the fact that I rarely get off the pavement for any serious terrain. Need to change that!

Not sure what stock front shock (in the coilover) your X has now but from my prior research (and opinions are very mixed) I remember reading front 4600 vs 5100 at stock height the 5100 ride was said to be a tad stiffer (valved for offroad/lifted Xterras). The 4600 was noted to be very close to stock/OEM for non-lifted Xterras for ride quality. The condition of your front springs can also affect ride quality (old mushy ones vs newer or less-used stiffer ones). My 5100 fronts were picked up 2nd hand (no idea how old they are or how many miles but mine ride pretty soft (but comfy on the road) and I run about a 1 or 1.5" lift now. Lots of discussion on thenewx.org too with different perspectives. Hope that helps point you in the right direction.

@@TrailRunnerGuy thank you very much for your response! I have looked on the newX website, and their opinions seem to be controversial at times. I agree with your suggestion, the consensus is that 4600 series are very close to the stock, non-lifted shock on base model Xs. I have an opportunity to pick up a set of new 4600s for cheap and will give that a try. If all goes well, they will be a video on my channel soon. Thanks again!

Bummer. I ended up digging my old ones out of the trash and grabbing the washers from those. I’m not sure of the sizing, but I did see some shock washers/kits on Amazon. Might be worth a look. Good luck!

Indeed - Thanks for pointing this out! I have a follow-up video coming soon where I don't pop that Upper Control Arm (assembly is a tad shorter and I did squeeze it in/out). As soon as my new even smaller spacer arrives (to replace another smaller spacer...) I'll be documenting/publishing soon.

I’ve heard for many it’s not required. It was a very tight fit on mine so just went that route.

Very good question. I researched a bunch at the time and found most people never torqued them - just "nice and tight" on that center nut. Though I also found this in a couple places: Coilover top plate. 22ft-lb each stud 30ft-lb center nut I likely went over 30 ft-lbs and made it nice and tight. If anyone finds anything different please share.

“Maybe.” If you lift it a lot it’s a tighter squeeze going in/out. I’ve heard some who swapped stock height units ~might~ be able to do it w/o undoing the sway bar mounts - but that’s only an extra 5 minutes of effort. I unhooked mine each time just because it’s easier being the unit it slightly longer/taller.

@@TrailRunnerGuy so unbolting the sway bar gives you more slack?

Correct. Doing that allows the rotor/caliper to droop further and with it out of the way gives a lot more room to take the coilover in/out.

@@TrailRunnerGuy thanks

Haha. 🤣 Indeed they were. I had just offloaded my terrible MTs and used that backup set for a 400 mile trip.

For 0-2” lifts yes. I’d verify wherever you’re shopping however, everything I’ve seen says they are also compatible on Frontiers up to 2019. Check All Dogs Offroad, for example.

Kinda with you on the 5100s. They work, and I do like the adjustability, but even the minimal offroading I do doesn’t allow much flex. I would prob not purchase them, or even install them again if given to me.

@@TrailRunnerGuy I’ve got a pro4x and they were my only option for leveling.and to get leveled raised all the way up and of course I bought 2G in oversized tires and so stiff it’s like riding on a horse and wagon!you feel every bump like hitting a wall!!oh by the way no such thing as life time warranty!!I’ve called every strut shock manufacturer and only but one says they have a strut that will fit..I’ve ordered I guess I will see…

@@fergieferguson2457 Yeah, my "ride" was awful on the road (speedbumps = teeth rattling), when at the highest setting. It's better now but not great. Best of luck on the new ones!

Not sure I'm following you here. In order to get the springs back on you have to compress them or the post won't reach the top nut. (And these are stock springs.)

@@TrailRunnerGuy I meant putting lift springs on a lift strut and setting the lift strut to anything more than 0 lift. I watched more, looks like stock springs so your good. Usually people just leave these set to 0 and put lift springs in them.

@@bertrenolds5 Cool, yeah, I admittedly made a bad decision the first time around putting them on the highest setting. :D It rides perfect now after lowering back down to the 2nd from lowest.