Been blessed to have good people around to help out. Hopefully this will be the first of many🤞😁.

@@Gamyrc I hope so. you deserve it! Great work Great design. once I get paid I am preordering mine.

Thanks👍. First of many hopefully🤞😁.

Lol, thanks! Trust me I try! I figure I should be around for a bit though, crossing fingers!!!😁🤞

Thanks for the support! Two things, make sure to get or make your shocks longer so you can get best articulation and if possible make your own link lengths (2-56 threaded rod, and 1/8 brass tube to cover) as the stock ones work but with this chassis custom link lengths really make it shine!👍

@@Gamyrc thanks for the tip 👍. Just finished the build. I used the longest links I could get. I believe they're the C10 rear links. I have them on front and in the back. Wide axle kit with widened brass hexs. RC4WD steel stamped wheels, flipped them for the offset. Furitek Lizard with the HR high torque motor. Man I never thought these 24's could be this good lol. It's My first build and now I'm hooked. Brushless is on the way!

@Ryan Davis also just note that the 3d printed parts from shapeways is really good.

I use aluminum Charisma shocks. The chassis brings nuts if using stock size shocks though so no big worries you can still use regular aftermarket scx24 shocks.👍

Well the Chassis was designed using Deadbolt as base so if those links are for Deadbolt theres a good chance they work, I just dont have those particular ones on hand to give tou 100% assurance🤔. Sure will open it up though if they fit😁👍.

@@Gamyrc got it- thanks for the reply! They’re meant for the Jeep/C10 but they should physically fit- just not sure how it’ll affect the geometry. I’ll give them a shot though and let you know how it goes

Thats one thing we gave a lot of thought to but decided to go against because of how easily stock size bolts break. When used in stock configuration the thread into a soft material (plastic) which gives then a small amount of give keeping them somewhat safe when hitting something hard. If we were to make holes for stock bolts we would need to thread those holes making it a solid unit which would put all force in that small bolt which would break very easily. Not only that, it would also be stuck in there and those that own aluminum axles for the scx24 know the pain of having to remove a broken bolt from the holes! As is right now you just need some m1.4 nuts and your whole problem is solved and if it breaks it comes out by itself. When making this design I had to factor in reliability as any damage caused by the design itself would be directed back to Furitek which would have to cover costs for, which is not good business for them or anyone else. I figures 2mm holes were a happy medium to keep everyone happy and if using m2 hardware you would pretty much have an unbreakable rig😁.

I personally use Charisma shocks. RC4WD shocks also use 2mm bolts. Basher Rocksta shocks also use them. Many other micros use them, scx24 for some reason just went with the tiniest bolts they could find I guess🤷🏻‍♂️🤦. They can still be used with these though as long as you use a nut on the other side. I just prefer the 2mm kind because they hardly ever break and the scx24 are notorious for breaking especially when threaded into aluminum parts like axles.

Motor mount and trans plate are both separate items. The chassis comes with side plates, covers, and battery/electronics trey

Not yet🤔

Different versions will be offered once we roll out with it. 👍

High clearance rods work best with the angled skid design. Ro bend accurately I just bend both at same time. I use bolts to hold both rods together by going through the rod ends and just use a round surface ro match the angle I want. Now that I do 3d prints I make multiple "molds" ro match the angles Im looking for but honestly at this scale its pretty easy to bend to your needs.

If using 2mm hardware id say Charisma shocks. If using stock 1.4mm hardware any dual barrel shock would be fine just make sure to get the 4 nuts for them. I get mine from a this kit but you obviously dont need that many! Lol www.amazon.com/Kinds-M1-2-Small-Screws-Assortment/dp/B07TGGGY1P/ref=asc_df_B07TGGGY1P/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=416774286618&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=8423691848633487413&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1015150&hvtargid=pla-908752767803&psc=1&tag=&ref=&adgrpid=95471660538&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvadid=416774286618&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=8423691848633487413&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1015150&hvtargid=pla-908752767803

Thank you very much

No but the stock skid bolts right on to it or you can use any aluminum skid designed for scx24.

@@Gamyrc thank You

At the time this was made we had very few options for good shocks. I chose to make to 2mm to fit best available shocks available while still be able to use stock with nut. Newer versions of chassis has smaller shocks as market brought much better shocks with stock size hardware for shocks.

@@Gamyrc That wasn't a good idea, the holes for the holding plate would have been drilled smaller.

@@user-br1yo1kk3b It was a good idea at the time. The best shocks at the time were 2mm therefore the chassis was made to work with those. Every other chassis that came after came with 1.5mm holes as new better shocks were made for the platform at that time.