🤣

Preorder. I don't keep ready stock.

Contact me directly through WhatsApp (+6012-266-9631) or Facebook (Bamboo Archery - Malaysia)

Tested unit is 29.5# 28". This is the first delivery, so I don't yet know what happens with higher poundage.

@@bambooarcheryof course. Since you drew it way past that, for training at an indoor range this seems plenty!

MYR700 = USD149, not including shipping. Contact me directly through WhatsApp (+6012-266-9631) or Facebook (Bamboo Archery - Malaysia)

Hard bridge such as plastic, wood, horn, bone, improves efficiency but reduces tolerance to low gpp/dryfire. Soft bridge like rubber sacrifices some efficiency but provides tolerance to low gpp/dryfire. The bowstring is Dacron B50, which is quite elastic, so at least it still has some cushioning to protect against accidental dryfire. If the bowstring is FastFlight, then a rubber bridge would be quite important since the string isn't providing sufficient stretch/protection.

@@bambooarchery interesting

Contact me directly through WhatsApp (+6012-266-9631) or Facebook (Bamboo Archery - Malaysia)

Overweight. I normally only shoot 30#. 80# was too much of a jump, and too suddenly, but I had to test to make sure the bow is ok before delivery. I suspect some degree of muscle tear. Next time, I know I won't be pushing myself to test the ultra heavy bows.

@@bambooarchery Did you get that checked out? AC joint sprain maybe..

@@JonWickkk-cn1iv no I haven't. I don't think it's bad enough to need medical attention.

@@bambooarchery to the main topic of bows, how would changing to a longer string to reduce the brace height, lets say an inch or inch and a half, affect the performance or the way that bow shoots?

@@JonWickkk-cn1iv a slightly longer string will drop the brace height and poundage. Despite the slightly reduction in poundage, you actually gain more energy from the extra powerstroke and smoother draw, so it's a nett gain in speed. So ideally I would actually use the longest possible string to get the lowest possible brace height such that the bow is still geometrically stable, forgiving, low handshock. If the brace height is too low, the limbs becomes off balanced and unstable, leading to high handshock and vibration as the limbs jiggle all over. Low brace height also forces the arrow to bend more aggressively around the bow, which makes it less forgiving. Normally bows are already designed around their optimum point, you might be able to adjust the brace height by upto 0.5" without problems, and that may correspond to less than 0.5" change in the string length. 1-1.5" extra is excessive and most likely being completely unusable.

Asymmetric will always have higher handshock and vibration. You can only cancel shock by having identical force in the opposite side. Any asymmetric bow after optimization will always end up being symmetric. To think asymmetric has no shock is completely delusional, like hoping for an unbalanced wheel to spin without vibrations. There's a reason why all asymmetric design went extinct and remain so until modern replication (out of curiosity)

I have 3 alibow assymetrical bows with 60 pounds at 33 inches and they are loud but no handshock ..Yumi bows I have also feel no handshock .I was told that the yumi has its handle low to avoid the handshock primarily because it is assymetrical ?

@@richartist40 it simply means you aren't sensitive enough to notice the handshock. These bows shake violently in my hand. It's crazy how people can consider them as no handshock when high speed camera has shown how violently they vibrate during release. Loud sound is by definition strong vibration, how do you think they make the sound, by vibrating the air around them of course! A bow with low shock/vibration are also automatically very silent.

Solid fiberglass construction is nearly indestructible. The fibers run the full length of the bow, from tip to tip. That's in fact the biggest benefit of this particular type of construction. It doesn't run the risk of delamination like laminated bows because well ... the entire bow is literally 1 single material. Laminated bows need the test of time to reveal any defects in the glueline. However, history and statistics has proven that solid fiberglass bow simply doesn't have such problem to worry about. The disadvantage is usually reduced efficiency, increased shock/vibration, and increased stacking. Throughout the last 9 years in business, I've had only warranted 1 fiberglass bow because it became slightly asymmetric after a whole year of abuse (very poor nock height setting + technique). It could actually be repaired with a bit of heat but it wasn't worth the two way shipping cost, so I decided to just replace it and pay for a one way trip. Otherwise, never had any solid fiberglass bow that broke.

@@bambooarchery 70 lb Turkish design bending Fiberglass bow after 10000 shot and a year latter. Durability might also depend on the poundage of the bow. My Daylite Phoenix 60lb is still going after 20000 shots and 2 year but 90 broke after a hundred shots and 95 lb korean laminated bow Last only 1000 draws. kzfaq.infoLjbqr0MUsQw?si=2mOop2KlsDXhaEkD

@@ThatIndianArcher these bows only go up to 45# 28". Beyond that, you need to change the build. If you use materials designed for lower poundage and just force it to higher poundage, you'll get that kind of problem.

@@bambooarchery so which material you are suggesting is good for lower poundage bow but bad for higher poundage bow? thick Fiberglass or carbon, Fiberglass and wood laminate.

@@ThatIndianArcher the material is fine, the configuration/build is the problem. If you have a single thick fiberglass, the stress on the skin is much more than inside. The imbalanced strain causes problem. If the glass has to be thick for getting higher poundage, it is best to make them out of several thinner layers instead of a thick chunk. That way allows the strain to be better distributed. You'll also need to clearly define the neutral axis zone so that the material can maximize their tensile and compression strain. The example you provided, the bow actually didn't fail at the glass fiber, instead the epoxy matrix failed and resulted in buckling. Buckling is a premature failure even when the fiberglass haven't reach its compression limit. So when designing a high poundage with high level of compression, the configuration needs to account for buckling, not just compression. This can be done by using glass fiber in multiple orientation as necessary.

I don't test high poundages. I usually test around 30-35#. Then using formula to convert to exactly 10gpp and 11gpp so that I can do a better and fairer comparison. AF Tatar Oak 49", +9.2ppi, 187.0fps@10gpp, 178.9fps@11gpp AF Sicai Sandalwood 53.5", +7.5ppi, 182.1fps@10gpp, 174.7fps@11gpp Mazan Jotoman Lite 46", +7.7ppi, 181.5fps@10gpp, 173.9fps@11gpp

@@bambooarchery Thank you very much.