Hi thank you for your encouraging comments. Right from the outset, I have acknowledged the concern you rightly raise, and it has generated many comments on this video and the accompanying Instructable: www.instructables.com/Chinese-Diesel-Heater-Workshop-Install/ I’ll reproduce one example of a previous response I’ve made: “However. Please be aware that there is a major potential problem with using a mains power supply. If the heater is running and you get a power cut, then the electric pump will stop supplying diesel (this is good!) but the cooling fan will also stop (this is bad). The residual heat left in the combustion chamber is not now being blown into the room and may overheat the unit. I believe that this could cause the heater to melt, essentially destroying itself. I 'get away' with using the mains power supply based on two assumptions: 1) I have never had a power cut in the years I have been living here. 2) I never have the heater running unattended - I put it on when I am working in the workshop. Hence, the prospect of having a power cut when the heater is functioning seems extremely unlikely to me, and even if there is one, I will be aware and be able to (at the very least) take some action to prevent a disaster (even if the heater might be fatally damaged!). If you wanted to use one of these heaters in your static caravan, I would power it from a 12V battery (must be capable of supplying at least 12A for 5 or 10 minutes as the unit is powering-down gracefully) and a permanent 'trickle charger'. A small car battery and simple charger would be ideal.” Many thanks for your interest. Best wishes

Many thanks for your comment. I had not come across these heaters until recently. I'm amazed at how simple they are in construction and operation. I just hope that it is reliable and keeps going for years to come!

Many thanks.

Everything is wrong! A very dangerous installation. A small leak in the exhaust and everything is sucked into the building. Lack of backup battery for after-cooling in case of power failure. Power supply located above the exhaust can overheat.

Can we just stand back and Appreciate the level of math here? Its simple, elegant and gives you a real world result on heat output and cost. One of the best posts on the thread. Thank you!

The 8kW versions likely have a slightly higher pumping speed, but are nowhere near that claimed output. A good, tidy installation, but please read my input much lower down. Some of the issues have since been raised, and addressed, and I commend you on your arguments.

@@oliver90owner David McLuckie has tested several & the only difference he found between the 5 & the 8 is one says 5 & one says 8. Same exact heater, pump & everything. Some sellers evidently found they could get more profit by calling them an 8 than a 5. he has also tested the smaller 2KW units & they are actually different but they had the same fuel pump, speed & usage as the bigger ones but must have been less efficient.

@@oliver90owner they have the same 22ml pumps. If you replace them with 28ml pumps things would be different.

@@xXTheoLinuxXx Yes, things would be different. The extra 27% of fuel added (at the same pumping rate). Would just cause a huge amount of CO and a lot of unburned sooty deposits. Do understand it needs adequate oxygen (in the combustion air) to burn the fuel. IF the fan speed could be increased by another 27%, it might burn cleaner, but then the heat exchanger would not be adequate. The combustion tube would need to be longer, too. So absolutely a waste of time, cost, and energy for a certain way to waste fuel and mess up the heater. Good try, but a fail.

Many thanks for your interest. Good idea about the fruit bags! Best wishes

Yep - I think you might be right. If the air going into the heater is freezing, the hot air produced by the heater must have a lower temperature than if the air going in was at (say) 20°C or 65°F. In fact, the heater seems to be very efficient in terms of its use of fuel in my situation so I'm not worried. I use it for a few hours at time and barely notice the level in the 10 litre tank going down. I often use it when it is cold outside, but not freezing (winter has generally been mild in the UK so far this year) - perhaps when the winter bites, I might regret not bringing the air into the heater from inside of the workshop? The case is designed to let me do that if I want. Many thanks for your interest.

@@KuTee you will find when it is cold and you crank the heater up it will go through fuel pretty fast and real noticeable. That is where recycling the air will make a big difference. I have the same heater and it is installed in my garage and exhausted through the wall and find that it will keep it comfortable at half level and I live in Manitoba Canada which is a bit colder than your place, but when cranked right up it will go through fuel and it will be very noticeable.

@@Richard-sl8xj I'm sure you are right. As I write this, it is new-year's-eve 2021 and the outside temperature is 16 degrees C (61F). It's ridiculous, I hardly need the heater at all! More seriously, the inside temperature and fuel consumption will depend heavily on how well insulated (and air-tight) the workshop is. I have made a reasonable effort to insulate the walls (50mm of polystyrene sheeting) and ceiling (100mm of rock-wool blanket), but there are air-gaps and some uninsulated areas. Recycling the air is definitely the best option especially as the outside air gets colder. I've just replied to a later comment and calculated that the diesel consumption of my heater is about 0.4 litres per hour when it is running flat-out (when running at its minimum setting, it consumes about 30% of that). Best wishes - happy new year!

@@KuTee Also make sure that tee is fireproof, the air blows out at _well_ over 200 C.

@@WaffleStaffel Yep - it is very hot air coming out of the heater. I have not had any issues yet - my 'elbow' is based on the tee which was supplied with the original kit - specifically designed for the ducting.

Merci beaucoup pour votre intérêt.

I must admit, that the 'instruction book' I received with the kit was so bad, that I barely understood it. I was not worried about the vent leaving the heater and turning so quickly, because the total length of the hot air tube is about 30cm. It is so short, that I don't believe there can be any resistance to the airflow. Many thanks for your interest.

@@KuTee you’d be surprised about back pressure and flow restriction in ducting and without examining flow tables I guess that the location of your 90 bend reduces the flow by about half to that of a straight run. Besides that your packaging is BRILLIANT! What if the entire unit was indoors and the outside pass through included only the exhaust pipe and perhaps the combustion air pipe? Would there be odor? Could the unit be

@@KuTee sound insulated?

So many people have suggested this, that I'm beggining to think that my gut-reaction is wrong!! This previous reply of mine sums up my thoughts, but I can't justify it with any maths! "Pulling warm air from inside, rather than cold air from outside the workshop, will definitely be more efficient and make the workshop warmer; therefore reducing the fuel consumption. Flat-out, it only burns about 0.4 litres per hour, so I'm never too worried (also, it reduces its fuel-consumption rapidly once the workshop has warmed up). I have no way of knowing, but I'm not convinced that recirculating warm air starting at (say) 20C is going to make a HUGE fuel-consumption difference compared to heating the cold outside air starting at (say) freezing point 0C (although MANY comments suggest this!) I can't really compare because we don't have many very-cold days, however I can't say that I've noticed much difference in consumption depending on the outside temperature." (To justify my comment, I think I need to know the number of cubic metres of air passing through the heater and then see how much extra energy it would need to heat the cold air, compared to warmer air - then I could work out how much extra fuel is needed. The output air is at around 120C I think, and I'm just not convinced that heating the air from 0C to 120C is going to take a HUGE amount more energy that heating it from 20C to 120C. It will definitely need MORE fuel, but is it really significant? I don't know!!!) Many thanks for your comment

@@KuTee It will make a huge difference on many levels. HUGE!

@@KuTee Here's the thing they are missing. SO many of these heaters fail simply because of carbon buildup/soot from running on lower power levels. They just flatout don't handle it well and it creates a sort of chimney fire and you heater also gets choked out and inefficient. So while you are drawing in colder air and using more fuel, its actually a somewhat better bet assuming its not a long term thing and you are needlessly burning a ton of extra fuel. It'll keep the soot reduced and function better long term. Like you said, an extra 20d isn't massive. My Father-in-law uses one for his snowmobile cabin off grid way up on the mountain where its often 0-20d F. The heater just DUMPS hot air into the cabin and isn't re-circulating.

@@vin9976 I've read about the soot buildup. I think I've seen a video on dismantling and cleaning the unit. I would say that it seems to burn pretty cleanly - the exhaust doesn't seem to have much smoke. My worst complaint is the cost of diesel in the UK - I'm currently buying it a £1.70 (2 US$) per litre. People who heat their houses can buy what we call 'red diesel' which is the same stuff but without the vehicle-related tax added. I can't find small quantities of red diesel, so end up going to a regular garage. Thanks for your interest. Best wishes.

Personlly, I wouldn't want it mounted inside my single garage, due to the noise which it produces - many people DO place them inside, so others are not so worried. Pulling warm air from inside, rather than cold air from outside the workshop, will definitely be more efficient and make the workshop warmer; therefore improving the fuel consumption. Flat-out, it only burns about 0.4 litres per hour, so I'm never too worried (also, it reduces its fuel-consumption rapidly once the workshop has warmed up). I have no way of knowing, but I'm not convinced that recirculating warm air starting at (say) 20C is going to make a HUGE fuel-consumption difference compared to heating the cold outside air starting at (say) freezing point 0C (although MANY comments suggest this!) I can't really compare because we don't have many very-cold days, however I can't say that I've noticed much difference in consumption depending on the outside temperature. Your comment may be intended to mean that the heater is, in some way, more efficient if it is warm (ie the heater ITSELF is warmer - nothing to do with the air which is being heated). I don't think this is relevant - I'm not sure, but I can't see any logical reason for this, because the working part of the heater is almost instantly extremely hot and a 10C or 20C degree difference in the environment around it, will surely not affect it? Many thanks for your interest - best wishes

I agree about the poser supply. Surprisingly, rather than problems with water ingress, I think I am more likely to have problems from spiders making their home inside the power supply! The box has several spider's webs inside and I wonder whether they might end up INSIDE the power supply, entering through the holes in its case. If so, they might cause a problem short-circuiting something on the PCB. There are lots of webs inside the main (white) box already. You might be able to see a black, 3D printed, circular vent on the right-hand-side of the box - this is intended to bring fresh-air into the intake. Perhaps it would have been more sensible to connect the heater directly to the outside air, through the vent-hole using a small bit of pipe. I could have added the vent on the end of the pipe. This would allay people's fears about recirculating the exhaust gases if a fault were to occur. For me - and my intermittent use, I didn't think it was worth punching another hole through the brick wall to get the input air from the inside of the garage. I really appreciated the heater a couple of days ago, when the outside temperature was -3°C. It makes a big difference. Many thanks for your comments.

Hi, thanks for your interest. Yes, you are 100% correct, and there is a huge amount of discussion about this on these comments and on the accompanying Instructable: www.instructables.com/Chinese-Diesel-Heater-Workshop-Install/ To cut a long story short, I explain that I live in an urban area and never have a power cuts, and in any case, I only ever use the heater when I am actively in the workshop, so I would know if it was operating when I had a power cut. Yes, in this circumstance, I might have to watch the heater destroy itself and that would be regrettable. However, in my specific situation, I'm happy to take the risk. However, everyone should be aware of the potential for a power-cut-melt-down and use their own judgement. Your solution looks excellent, as long as the battery can supply 10A for a few minutes. I would probably use an old 12V car battery and a simple mains trickle charger to keep it fully charged. It is vital that the battery must be able to provide at least 10A at 12V. When starting up, the glow plug takes a large current (8A?) and the fan/etc takes 2.5A. I believe that many installations have low-voltage error problems due to poor batteries or lack of current capacity. Thank you for raising this important topic. Best wishes

@@KuTee Thanks for the reply! I understand your concerns about the size of the battery. If the power goes out while the heater is starting, the combustion chamber is not hot. Therefore, no problem if the power goes out at this moment. If the heater has been running for a few minutes / hours, then only the fan is running with the said 2.5Ah output. You're right, a 14Ah battery would be a better choice. Therefore, with a 14Ah battery (if we assume 50% of the nominal power as available power) the heater could run for around 3 hours without public electricity and will start the heater "normally" in the event of a power failure in the starting phase. When the heater detects "low voltage", it shuts down in a controlled manner and switches off. Therefore, together with the PWM charge controller and the existing power supply (I would recommend an old 19.5V laptop power supply) you always have a full battery.

Yep - spot on. Many thanks

Hallo Willem, mag ik je wat vragen, welke voeding 230-12volt heeft u gebruikt. Ik heb er 4 waar de kachel telkens een storing op geeft. Op accu doet de kachel het goed😌

I agree, backup battery power is definitely a good idea. I have never had a power cut in the years I have lived here (it may yet happen with the closing of most of the UK's power stations and our reliance on wind and solar energy!), but I reassure myself that I only run the heater when I am actually inside the workshop, and if I did have a power cut while I was using the heater, I would be present and able to avoid catastrophe (perhaps with the loss of the heater?). However, for many users (the majority?), a proper battery-based power supply would be essential. One reason for my use of a mains power supply is to avoid the problems caused by ineffective battery set-ups. The unit draws 8A - 10A at start-up and close-down, and I suspect that the users who are unhappy with their heaters are actually suffering from a battery which cannot sustain this current demand. They then get intermittent faults and resets, etc. There are lots of internet users, criticising these units - perhaps due to this problem? I, like many users, have found the heater to be brilliant (so far).

Is the power supply unit safe from the elements being outside the building but inside a box, ie: dampness from the cold

Great - thanks for your interest.

Many thanks for your interest. I hope your install goes well. Being warm is great!

Can you do a video on your modifications?

Hi Thanks for this. Yes, there is a huge amount of discussion about this in the comments, and for some, it should be a real worry. Full details about possible problems and numerous solutions are in the excellent comments. For me the TLDR is that I never have power cuts and my heater is only running when I am in the workshop, so at least I can make sure it doesn't burn down my workshop, in the unlikely event of a power cut! Anyone who has occasional power cuts or who would plan to leave the heater unattended, should definitely have a battery in the system (the battery must be easily able to supply 10A for several minutes at start-up to avoid problems). In the UK, if the rush to net-zero EV-madness continues (unlikely) then we will certinly suffer numerous power-cuts or 'load sharing' in the years to come as we couldn't possibly meet the required supply for all the vehicles and home theoretically switching to electricity! Then I'll get a battery - if I'm still around. Best wishes Thanks for your comment.

Yep - I think they are "identical" copies! Thanks for your interest.

Mnay thanks for the comment - Best wishes

Many thanks for your comment - I wish I could get hold of small quantities of 'red diesel' (see another of my replies for more information on 'red diesel') it has far less tax added to it (about one-fifth), but is virtually identical.

I would definitely be using an IP55 rated power supply, and run 240v cabling such that no inner insulation is exposed. Although out of direct sunlight, not sure T&E should be used outside like this.

They also run happily on 50/50 vegetable oil and petrol.

Many thanks for your interest

Yep, you are right on both counts. The kit I bought came complete with a steel 'dip pipe' and flange, which is intended to be fitted to the top of a vehicle diesel tank (cut a 25mm hole in the top of the tank, bolt the flange and gasket to the tank and let the dip rod go down somewhere near the bottom of the tank - not the very-bottom, or the heater would be able to suck the tank dry, stopping the vehicle). I didn't use this, but it would be a really good solution. Many thanks for your interest.

Glad it was helpful!

Many thanks for your interest. Best wishes

Thanks for your interest. Yep - you're right. I have modified the setup slightly, to suck the air which is to be heated, directly from OUTSIDE the box, just in case there is an exhaust leak of some sort inside the box. This just entailed extending the air intake from the right-hand-side of the heater-unit, a few inches towards the side of the box, to meet up with the black 3-d printed grid which is visible on the right-hand edge of the white, wooden enclosure. This is all detailed in the accompanying Instructable. See www.instructables.com/Chinese-Diesel-Heater-Workshop-Install/ Best wishes

@@KuTee Nice one 👍 It’s the neatest nicest setup I’ve seen in a long time 😃 I have 7 diesel heaters I think they are the best alternative to heating I have one in my house running now as well anyway have a great day 🙂

Yep, I think you are correct. For my purposes, the heater works brilliantly as it is. In the UK we do not get deeply cold winters like some parts of the world (eg - 20°C or 0°F), ours tend to hover around 0°C or 32°F. I didn't really want to bust another hole through the brick wall. However, it would definitely be a more efficient solution. Many thanks for your interest.

Yep - really simple in construction and easy to operate. No doubt, recirculating is a good idea for efficiency - it also stops air being pushed out of the workshop by fan-pressure. Many thanks for your interest.

Many thanks for your interest.

It has been suggested that there is a marginal possibility of the exhaust silencer splitting, or one of the exhaust clamps working loose and permitting the exhaust pipe to come adrift. Were this to happen, the exhaust from the heater could fill the box and find its way into the air destined to be heated and pumped into the room. It is hard to see, but there is a vent (black plastic) in the side of the box, immediately by the room air intake. As it stands, this would not remove the problem, but if a short section of the 4" flexible tube were added, so that the air which is to be heated up is drawn from OUTSIDE the box, then any potential for exhaust air entering the room is removed. This is a very sensible modification to the design.

I agree, backup battery power is definitely a good idea. I have never had a power cut in the years I have lived here (it may yet happen with the closing of most of the UK's power stations and our reliance on wind and solar energy!), but I reassure myself that I only run the heater when I am actually inside the workshop, and if I did have a power cut while I was using the heater, I would be present and able to avoid catastrophe (perhaps with the loss of the heater?). However, for many users (the majority?), a proper battery-based power supply would be essential. One reason for my use of a mains power supply is to avoid the problems caused by ineffective battery set-ups. The unit draws 8A - 10A at start-up and close-down, and I suspect that the users who are unhappy with their heaters are actually suffering from a battery which cannot sustain this current demand. They then get intermittent faults and resets, etc. There are lots of internet users, criticising these units - perhaps due to this problem? I, like many users, have found the heater to be brilliant (so far).

I have been really pleased with it so far this winter. I was pleased to have the unit outside the workshop, on the other side of a brick wall - I have no problem with noise from it. If you summer house is wooden, it may be sensible to think about noise - eg 18mm plywood or a layer of insulation. Many thanks for your interest.

@@KuTee Hi, yeah summer house is insulated and at least 90mm thick but its 20x12 ft so fair bit space to warm up,i nearly all piped up ready to go just waiting for exhaust silencer to turn up

Also enter fuel pipe from top of tank, i realised this after i fitted to bottom of tank risking leaks. Why? The vehicle fuel pipe shows it going in top of tank. So pump is capable of sucking fuel.

Hi - good point about the fresh air inlet coming from inside the garage. There is lots of dicussion about this in the comments. There were various practical reasons why I didn't do this! Best wishes Thanks for your comment.

@@KuTee Well yes would need knocking through another hole in wall, might not be convenient.

Many thanks for the comment. To be fair, the 12 amps at 12V refers to the maximum capacity of my power-supply. In fact the maximum draw for the unit only happens during start-up and shut-down (probably a minute or two each) - this is around 8A to 10A and is to power the glow-plug inside the combustion chamber (and also for the fan). Once the unit has started and combustion has been established, the glow-plug is switched off and the only draw is the fan (1A to 2A?), which has a variable speed (depending on the throughput of hot air). These units are really widely used across the cooler parts of the globe - initially for truck cabs then for RVs, caravans and boats. These Chinese copies are 20% of the cost of the 'commercially available' originals and seem to be generally well-received. I suspect that when people grumble about their operation, it may be because they do not have a battery/power-supply capable of reliably supplying the 8A-10A needed for the start-up glow-plug. Many thanks for your interest. Best wishes.

I guess you are right - I have installed a carbon monoxide alarm in the garage, near the hot-air input, so I am aware that carbon monoxide is a potential hazard in any heating system using carbon-based fuels (gas, oil, wood, coal, etc) and have taken that step to mitigate the risk. However, I think eventually a person needs to back their own competence in construction. I'm pretty happy to trust a thick stainless-steel tube, securely clamped at both ends - particularly when the tube is only 40cm long. There are several areas in this project where my own incompetence would pose a risk. For example, both the electrical wiring, and the storage / delivery of the diesel, need to be safe. I'm not sure that I would ever do anything DIY if I didn't trust myself to do a half-decent job! A poorer reaction to your comment would be to suggest that you look at the many other installations of these heaters which are on KZfaq. With some of them, I would definitely be agreeing with you and worrying about exhaust gases feeding back into the room - however, they don't affect me. Many thanks for your comment - this is a really important topic, thank you for raising it. Best wishes.

It would be easy to add fresh air tube between heater intake and a ventilation hole in the box to ensure fresh air supply to the workshop. Your installation is indeed extremely neat and built with great care. Just add one part and it will be safe and perfect. I'm planning somethin similar to my summer house guest shed

I think the exhaust-wrap idea is excellent, and it is so cheap for this tiny length of exhaust pipe and silencer, that it is an obvious winner. I'm not worried about the proximity of the pipes, as the inside temperature of the box is not great - even after it has been running for hours. The wrap would increase the temperature of the exhaust gases which is no bad thing and keeps condensation at bay. The wrap is a bit of a no-brainer, so I'll buy some and fit it. Many thanks for the suggestion.

The exhaust, fuel entry and combustion air entry points are all together. They all essentially go straight into the main combustion chamber aluminium casting. Hence, there is no latitude about where the three entry points are. A straight-down exhaust system would be perfect - as you say, any condensation would then leave the exhaust without any problem. I shortened the stainless-steel exhaust pipe by 40cm or so to make everything more compact. The pipe is quite thick and does not bend very easily - cutting it down was a mistake because I was never able to expand the cut pipe-end where it enters the silencer. Try as I might, the stainless-steel pipe could not be expanded to fit over the silencer. I ended up putting a short section of steel pipe which went just inside the silencer and just inside the exhaust pipe. There is a drip-hole built-into the silencer. The exhaust pipe should not be extended (in theory, some people on KZfaq have) due to the increased back-pressure affecting the combustion process. Having the exhaust system completely outside the box would be ideal. Many thanks for your interest.

Yep - I think you might be right. If the air going into the heater is freezing, the hot air produced by the heater must have a lower temperature than if the air going in was at (say) 20°C or 65°F. In fact, the heater seems to be very efficient in terms of its use of fuel in my situation so I'm not worried. I use it for a few hours at time and barely notice the level in the 10 litre tank going down. I often use it when it is cold outside, but not freezing (winter has generally been mild in the UK so far this year) - perhaps when the winter bites, I might regret not bringing the air into the heater from inside of the workshop? The case is designed to let me do that if I want. Thanks for your interesting comment. Best wishes.

I was about to ask the same question.

Might that cause a vacuum situation if the room being heated is well sealed?

@@dannyboy8067 no, because you are circulating the same amount of air. just like in your car

It’s obviously more efficient recirculating the existing warm air from indoors but I would rather pull fresh air from outside. Also creates positive pressure inside the home of pulling fresh air from outside.

Glad you enjoyed it.

I worried about that as well. The case is designed to avoid that, with a sloping 'roof' intended to guide the rain away from the wall (and hence the back panel of the box). I have also put a 'rail' screwed to the wall above the sloping roof, but there is not a shot of it on the video. I'm going to add a photo of the 'rail' to the Instructible which is referenced in my comment under this video. I'm pretty happy with the arrangement. We have has a huge amount of heavy rain in the UK and the inside of the unit is bone-dry (so far). Best wishes - many thanks for your comment.

It has been suggested that there is a marginal possibility of the exhaust silencer splitting, or one of the exhaust clamps working loose and permitting the exhaust pipe to come adrift. Were this to happen, the exhaust from the heater could fill the box and find its way into the air destined to be heated and pumped into the room. It is hard to see, but there is a vent (black plastic) in the side of the box, immediately by the room air intake. As it stands, this would not remove the problem, but if a short section of the the 4" flexible tube were added, so that the air which is to be heated up is drawn from OUTSIDE the box, then any potential for exhaust air entering the room is removed. This is a very sensible modification to the design.

I was going to ask how it’s waterproofed looks a great installation though.

Taken from a reply to one of the comments - 72cm x 48cm x 18cm ( W x H x D ) The backboard is 72cm x 48cm - you can see that the roof slopes down a few centimetres, so the front face is only 43 cm or so high .

@@kennyjacketblock3333 Thank you for your reply will now build one for my workshop

There is a little more information on the linked Instructible: www.instructables.com/Chinese-Diesel-Heater-Workshop-Install/ Step 5 has been added which talks about the box size. Step 5 might take a day or two to appear on their site?

@@KuTee thank you

Thank you for updating your page , i’ve just built a similar one based on your design but i’ve made it portable with the fuel tank in a compartment at the back but the front compartment which houses the heater and electrics is pretty much the same as yours So thank you for posting your idea and design , it has help quite a few people out judging by the comments 👍

Unfortunately, I don't really know the answer. If it were me, I think I would be reasonably happy to carry out your plan - I'm not even sure that the silencer would be necessary - just have a plain pipe ( a 2.5m pipe would surely do the silencing job???). There should be no possibility of rain going down the exhaust pipe. The pipe could get very hot, so some sort of insulation might be necessary if it can touch anything. I would have thought that the long vertical run would enhance the updraught, so not cause any problem with the combustion draught. I have seen some KZfaq videos where people have extended the exhaust pipe, but not by as much as 2.5m and not vertically. I can't really foresee any problem - but what do I know? Hopefully, someone else can comment more knowledgebly! Best of luck.

. @KuTee Thanks a lot for your answer! I've never seen a vertical exhaust pipe on such a diesel heater. I imagine that the main problem of a vertical pipe is the condensation, so I could try to put the silencer and its evacuation hole at the bottom and the rest of the pipe after, untill the top of the roof but not sure it's efficent and safe. I will make some test and we'll see 😉. Thanks again.

Hi, thanks for your interest. There are a few reasons for having the unit outside. They are very noisy - the fan and the sound of the combustion are quite intrusive. My workshop is not big, so it would only be a metre or two away from me, if it were inside. Also, I dislike the smell of diesel and I find it impossible to fill the tank without leaving a smell hanging around for days - none of this smell gets inside! Most of the walls of my workshop are covered in tools, or blocked by machinery or shelves, etc, so it was much easier to find space for the unit on the outside. Obviously, the short run of the exhaust system is a benefit - a long exhaust run can cause condensation to form inside the pipework and cause corrosion. You mention the huge loss of heat, but I don't think that is a problem. The casing of the unit does not get particularly hot (it's plastic) - the unit is designed to take the vast majority of combustion heat into the hot air used for heating. There is heat loss from the exhaust pipe, but in a way, that's needed to keep the exhaust system corrosion free, as mentioned. In any case, there is SO much heat coming from the unit, that none of the heat-loss is relevant for a small workshop like mine. 90% of the time it is just 'ticking over'; it only works hard at the start to warm the workshop up. There is lots of discussion about taking the air already inside the workshop as the source of air to be heated (rather than continually taking cold air from the outside, heating it up and sending it inside) - I think this is an excellent idea and must surely be more efficient than my set-up. Best wishes - thanks for your comment.

Many thanks for your interest.

Nie jestem pewien co do rury wydechowej przechodzącej przez warsztat. Ma małą średnicę i powinien być krótki, aby uniknąć przeciwciśnienia. Zgadzam się, bardziej wydajne byłoby doprowadzenie powietrza z wnętrza warsztatu, podgrzanie i odesłanie z powrotem do warsztatu. Wielkie dzięki za zainteresowanie.

kzfaq.info/get/bejne/e5-Tmqdz0LDboX0.html@@KuTee

@@wpjariko Ha! Wygląda świetnie. Spodziewam się, że robi się bardzo gorąco i powinno wnieść sporo ciepła do warsztatu. Domyślam się, że nie wytwarza zbyt dużego przeciwciśnienia dla komory spalania. Czy w wymienniku ciepła dochodzi do kondensacji? Bardzo dobrze. Ha! That looks excellent. I expect it gets very hot and should bring quite a bit of heat into the workshop. I'm guessing that it does not create too much back-pressure for the combustion chamber. Do you get any condensation forming in the heat exchanger? Very good.

Hi - basically a single garage. not brilliantly insulated. 2" of polystyrene type insulation on a couple of walls. The heater has loads of spare capacity, it normally only ticks over, once the first 10 minutes of heat has got it up to temperature. In my part of the UK the we don't have really cold temperatures. 0 degrees C is reasonably frequently, but -3C or -4C occasionally. -10 very rare. Best wishes thanks for your interest.

Hi. The enclosure is made from 12mm plywood - external grade (I think). The heater does not generate any heat in the box - it is designed to use in truck cabs, RVs and caravans, etc, so the enclosure does not need anything special to combat heat - there is none. I did buy some expensive 'external quality' household paint - just because I wanted the plywood to be well protected from rain, etc. The fuel pump is strong enough to suck up diesel, but there is a limit. I believe that the maximum permisible 'lift' is stated to be 1 metre, however, I'm guessing that a little more would not cause a problem. By 'lift' I mean the vertical distance between the surface-level of diesel in the fuel tank and the pump. This should be measured from the surface of the diesel when the tank is just about empty. (There is also a limit to the LENGTH of pipe which the pump will cope with when sucking the diesel. I think this was theoretically specified as 5 metres, but the diameter of the pipe, and its material must surely have an effect.) I would have a look at the numerous examples of these heaters which feature in KZfaq videos, and see if you can find an example which sucks up fuel from a low tank. You will find details of the enclosure size on the associated Instructable: www.instructables.com/Chinese-Diesel-Heater-Workshop-Install/ This also has links to a really good series of Australian videos, which might help to answer your questions. I hope this helps. Best wishes, thanks for your interest.

My box is far from air-tight and I don't think it heats up at all??? Particularly in this cold weather (obviously, there is no insulation on the wood, so the inside of the box is only a little above the ambient temperature). To be honest, I'm not sure that there is any real advantage to be had from having warm box air flowing into the air intake for the workshop. On the contrary, very many people have suggested that this would actually be a potential RISK (if the exhaust leaks gas into the box, then it would find its way into the workshop). In fact, I have modified my unit by extending the hot air input so it does NOT get its air from inside the box. If you look at the last step of the accompanying Instructable (www.instructables.com/Chinese-Diesel-Heater-Workshop-Install/) you can see the adjustment I made. Also, lots of people suggest that I get the air from inside the workshop, rather than the cold outside air. As you say, when the outside temperature is below zero (Celsius) this may make some considerable difference (?). Like you, it is a bit of a pain to create a second large diameter hole in the wall of my workshop so I havn't bothered (if I used my workshop on a daily basis, I think I would cut the hole and recirculate the warmed air). Many thanks for your interest. Best wishes

@@KuTee Thanks for reply .

Hi, Thanks for your interest. No, the box is always cool. The heater itself never gets warm (hopefully all its heat ends up in the workshop!) The exhaust is very hot, but there is plenty of ventilation and it's not an issue. Several people have suggested wrapping some fibreglass strip around the exhaust, which would be an idea if it were a problem. I have made a modification since the video, to answer the concerns about sucking exhaust fumes into the air destined for the workshop. In the video, the air going into the workshop was extracted from INSIDE the box, but the modification extends the input tube a few centimetres so that it connects to the black vent on the top right hand side of the box, so the air now comes from the outside. Details of this are in the accompanying Instructable: www.instructables.com/Chinese-Diesel-Heater-Workshop-Install/ I have a carbon monoxide detector in the workshop! Thanks for you excellent questions. Best wishes.