For those who don't have a tub nut wrench and don't want to spend the $20 to get one (like you're going to use on anything else, what a pain) and if your tub nut is actually a regularly shaped nut (albeit a big one), I was able to get mine off by using a good old pipe wrench and hammer. The pipe wrench will grip on to the nut very nicely, then just whack away at it. Some notes: - Depending on which way you orientate it, the pipe wrench automatically grips hard on whatever you're working on. If it doesn't, flip it horizontally then try it again. - Using a pipe wrench WILL get your tub nut a bit crunchy, but most likely still usable (mine was). Just doesn't look as pretty. - Obviously, you'll need a pipe wrench small enough to sit on the nut and not touch the sides of the tub. Also helps (actually required) that you don't mind banging on it either. - Pay close attention to which way the nut is threaded. On my GE hand-me-down from a neighbor, the tub nut is reverse threaded, meaning off is turned clockwise (as in this video). Would super suck to be hammering it the wrong way. - I would assume you could use a super deep 1 11/16" socket or a regular wrench to fit if you have something like that, but if you don't want to shell out the $20 for the spanner wrench, I'm assuming you probably don't like me. - I used Liquid Wrench and before I finally found me a pipe wrench that would fit in the tub, I spent 2 days soaking, hammering, then soaking again, etc etc. Once I got the pipe wrench in there, it wasn't a piece of cake, but it did start to move finally. Only took me about 10 minutes after that. my 2 cents

I love Repair Clinic and watched this video several times, including when I disassembled the washer's innards. I successfully replaced the seal, tub bearing and mode shifter; I had a mode shifter failure, caused by a tub seal leak. I did the tub bearing since I was in there already. Note to the uninitiated, however; as others have noted, this video shows somebody dismantling a new, factory-fresh machine. After a few years of corrosion, caused by failure of the tub seal, the reality of removing that nut is very different. The tub seal leak/failure is inevitable. I will be checking my seal for leaks, regularly, from here on out. Corrosion will inevitably form around the tub seal, pushing it out of shape. Water and a world of pain follow. GE could certainly have done several things to avoid the problem, but all of these options would have cost a few pennies more. Bad news/good news. The bad news is that on a real-world, used machine, the tub nut will be so fused and corroded onto the inner tub and mode shifter shaft that I can't imagine that you would ever loosen it with the wrench from Repair Clinic. However, the wrench is useful when you need to tighten/put on the new one, so you will need it. However, where the video shows the tech tapping the hammer 4 times to loosen the nut is ONLY true on a brand new machine, with no corrosion. The only way that tub nut was coming off on my real-world machine was with drilling and chopping it out with a long and narrow drill bit and a long and narrow cold chisel. I tried several days of soaking and tapping with PB Blaster; nothing, at all. The tub nut was truly fused to that collar and shaft. My nut only, finally, came out in about 10 pieces, bit by bit. Not exactly a few taps of the hammer...:-). I bought my new nut and used it as a gauge, so I knew how to drill/the shape of the nut. I used a 3/16" diameter 15" long bit and a long ("star drill") cold chisel that is roughly 5/16" thick and about 15" long. I ground the star drill to form a long straight cold chisel. I drilled carefully around the nut, about every 5/16." Very happily, the nut is a light alloy that drills easily. When the drill gets to the bottom of the nut, you can feel the drill grab a bit; just go carefully. Chop the pieces out, prying the chunks away from the spindle threads. Once you have the right tools (a long drill and a long, narrow cold chisel), it really is quite easy/fast. The other bad news is that the tub bearing will also be welded into the tub; again, due to corrosion. If you want to replace that, the only way to get it out, for me, was driving it out, using the old spindle, a pipe, and a 5 pound sledge. Finally, the pulley nut is also seriously "on there." I finally got mine off with a breaker bar and pipe extension. Again, the nut was corroded/frozen, as well as probably being tight, to begin with. The good news is that the order of events the video outlines is really solid; follow the steps and you'll be successful. Putting the new stuff in is easy and fun, after the surgery required to get it apart. The really good news is that my washer runs like a silent top, now. It is fun to use it! I also understand how the thing works in a way that wasn't possible before. The final good news is that I know that I need to check the tub seal pretty often. I also know that popping the front off is easy/simple, so there's no reason not to check for leaks before things get bad. Thanks, Repair Clinic, for the step by step video and the factory parts! I took photos of the process. Here they are, if you are struggling with the tub nut. One look at the corrosion and failed seal, in the photos, should explain why it is so hard. Finally, there's a photo of me driving out the tub bearing, using a pipe and the old spindle: drive.google.com/drive/u/0/folders/1PJfOllj19jQFXAcwGtlgSRxgjjFRllWn

WOW! My tub nut was so tight I had to use an impact gun to loosen it. Lots of BP Blaster! I did use "Honda Bond" that I bought from Honda Dealer to keep the seal in place. The old seal had popped out on one side. That Honda Bond is amazing stuff and you don't need much. Honda uses in place of oil pan gaskets. It is worth every penny. One tube will last years and gives that peace of mind. Let it set overnight. Try it! You will be a believer! 😂😂

Spanner wrench is required. Replaced the tub seal and used E6000 to seat the tub seal. It leaked. Replaced the tub seal again with a new split ring and nut. Used soap to seat the tub seal as per videos. It still leaked! Finally, gave in to buy a new washer.🤔

These videos were so helpful. I had a lot of difficulty removing the tub nut. I had to cut it with my Dremel Drill and a chissel.

great video. have to agree with others, tub nut is a bear to get free, even with the proper wrench which appears to be a bit too big.i beat on it with a heavy hammer and got no movement. got a good penetrating oil and soaked it several times and left it overnight. hit it several times the next day sometimes hitting it to tighten just to try and break the seal that was holding the nut fast. which is an old plumbers trick. was about to go to the dremel tool to cut it when it started moving. had to use the hammer the whole way to get the nut off. other things to have handy are a thin punch to align holes forputting together, a good flashlight, a small mirror for seeing back of machine and lots of paper towels for cleaning. you won't believe the mess you'll find when you get it appart. good luck.

You may need to tap on the shaft with a rubber mallet to loosen the tub.

Thank You SOOO much. The biggest part not mentioned was the cleaning. All is good

I just replaced this exact part on my GE Washer. A few things slightly more complicated than the video: 1. The bottom plastic piece that's attached to the shaft with the nut; this part was hard to pull off. It was "naturally" glued onto the shaft and took some manipulating and rocking. 2. The washer was also "naturally" glued to the shaft, so I took a crescent wrench and tightened it across the washer and slowly rocked it to jar it loose. 3. The seal was locked in hard and I was afraid of scoring the ID of the outer tub. So I ended up hacking away at the seal from the center out and then stuck a screwdriver into it to pry it out. That worked fine compared to when I first tried the video's method using two screwdrivers. 4. I would also recommend you gently place the seal on over the threads on the shaft. BE on the lookout for the seal's spring to come loose. Overall I felt it was a great video, but just beware that what you are watching is the dis assembly and reassembly of a washer with parts that are probably not "seasoned" parts. :)

Excellent video - thanks

Very professional video

Wow, great vid, I'm going to buy the wrench and seal and try mine. I will make a vid, but it will be full of commentary. Most folks like my banter, a few don't. Thanks for taking the trouble, it saved me hiring a repair guy to fix a barely worth it older machine, or a new 600 machine!

These videos are awesome step by step guides, but they make it look too easy... :) My 6 yr old washer gave me hell getting the tub nut off. The spanner wrench I ordered (TB123A from Repair Clinic) was a touch too big, but could have still done the job (it measured 1 3/4" not 1 11/16). Even so, I ended up soaking it in PB Blaster, overnight in Kroil, used heat and even put a 1 11/16 deep well socket on it with a 3/4" drive breaker bar... BTW... Heat (propane torch here) is not suggested if you're only replacing the tub seal, as you could damage the shaft. Eventually I ended up having to cut it off with a Dremel and a cold chisel. For my project, I ended up replacing the tub seal, the transmission/clutch, tub bearing, and then had to order a tub nut halfway through the job. I did find that the tub seal came WITH the clutch assembly. Otherwise, you're only looking at a few more bucks for the tub bearing, accompanying washer, and even the tub nut. Considering how far you have to tear down the machine in order to replace the tub bearing or clutch assembly, you're ahead of the game by replacing everything all at once and ensuring you get rid of the leak/noise.

After 2 days dealing with that nut I ordered a 1-11/16 and used an high speed impact wrench and 20 seconds later no more cursing. 😂 cheers that thing was 99% of the work

The tub nut was tightened using an aircraft carrier, true story

I would NOT recommend prying out the old seal with screwdrivers. Mine was stuck in tight enough it started to damage the plastic tub. You're better off getting 2 channel lock pliers and grabbing two of the three tabs tightly, and pulling straight up. Mine popped right out that way. Otherwise the video is very good and helpful. Thanks.

This video helped me out alot thank you.

Did you separate the outer tub to the inner tub? That is most likely where the water is.

thank you

Im trying this now...But the tub seal seems to pop back up when pushed down in its seat. Why wont it stay in place? I feel like this is gonna be a leak right away.

Like that video very informative so u do it url self thanks

Excellent video we were able to replace the tub seal on our GE Washing Machine (Model number WDRR2500K3WW ). Thank you.

Hello I just did this repair on my Kemore Elite Oasis. Now during spin cycle it start making alot of vibratingnoise and I get a UL code then machine stop.

That’s a lot of work.

Graet video

The bottom of my inner tub was all rusted with a few extra rust holes. Tried to remove the tub nut anyway with just oil and tub wrench. Had a heat gun but wouldn’t budge. Getting a new machine. I wouldn’t recommend buying GE appliances. My friend’s GE fridge just went out after 6-years…my GE washer 11-years only. Low quality appliances

I've had this washer for 6 years with decent service. If this thing seems to be leaking from the tub seal after that many years service consider yourself lucky it lasted that long and buy a new washer. I wasted 50$ on parts and a spanner wrench that Ill probably never use again trying to fix this leak with no luck. Anyone need a spanner wrench? 1$ plus shipping and its yours.

Oh man,.. you didn't mention the other tube thing by the water valves. I just caused a little flood in my garage.

Hi I have a ge hydrowave washer . I keep finding chunks of metal with ridge on them in pump area. I'am not sure where it is coming from, maybe in the inner tub. I have to by to a spanner wrench to open the tub. Is any idea what peace of the washer is braking of thanks. Also looking into invest in a Speed Queen washer made old school design good parts 1,000 bucks last for ten years 100 a year to have clean clothing is worth it.

So I got a new drain pump. A new tub seal & the darn thing still leaks. What else could it be, the drum itself?

Soak the nut with a Lime, Calcium and rust remover like CLR the night before. If you really want to make the job of getting the nut off relatively easy, borrow or steal a heavy duty impact gun and a 1 11/16 deep socket. Even then it can be a bear to get off. CLR helps. One word of caution. If you plan on heating the nut with a torch, don't go crazy. If you over do it , you risk the chance of melting the plastic outer tub. I speak from experience on this

I cant lift the tub, on a GE profile... It is stuck, any suggestion?

My local appliance parts guy said they won't even try to fix this disposable washer from GE since they replaced shaft design. I can understand why. If it leaks at the tub seal , the water falls straight to the clutch shaft bearings. This will make it roar on spin cycle. Soap will not seal this. The tub washer is not snug tight. I didn't want to buy a new tub. I am using a recommended Indian head gasket shellac as a sealant but only time will tell. I never gave up on the tub nut. Waited one day after soaking it with wd40. Hammered it like there was no tomorrow. Buy all parts early just in case parts can't be re-used.

Very helpful video so far but I'm to the step where you lift the washer off right before removing the seal. The problem I have is that washer doesn't just "lift"off on my GE machine. It is actually attached to the shaft. How do I go about removing this washer? Thanks

The hell with that, I will just buy another washer

I will use a 43 mm deep socket and my Harbor Freight 1/2" drive Earthquake cordless impact to remove the tub nut.

What's the total time spent on one of these repairs

I tried doing it just like video said. Instead, I burned house down, collected insurance money, bought a new washer for new house. Come to think of it, I could have just bought a new washer.

I HAVE THE TRANSMISION OF GE how the save.

I disassembled my machine (Samsung) completely except the motor and the drum, but when I put the drum facedown it sounds as it have water inside, but no water falls. What is the reason for that sound of water inside the drum?

I have news for you if you are doing this job. i ordered a brand new plastic tub and seal both GE parts ,not copy cat parts. the seal does not fit into the tub. it is 1mm larger in diameter. you can push it into place ( very difficult) but then it pops itself right out of the tub. it will leak. I finally got the seal to seat, put the machine back together and it leaked ruining my brand new transmission. when i opened the machine back up the seal had popped up again letting water leak down the transmission shaft. that is when i started taking measurements and asking why this happened. I ending up using sandpaper and working the edge of the seal until it was about .75mm less in diameter. the seal then fit into the cavity. i permatexed the seal in place and let it sit overnight. it did not pop out. i tried 3 different brand new GE seals and every one popped out. if you try and permatex the seal in without decreasing its diameter, it will pop itself out. i know, i tried. I dont know what is going on at GE but the tolerances of the seal and tub do not match and you will not be successful in the replacement without making modifications. this info as of Jan 2024. if your experience has been different, and you are using current parts, please comment.

What a nightmare. Far too many steps to get to the part that needs replaced. After watching this I doubt I'll ever buy a GE.

I replaced the tub seal and its still leaking from the tub bearing area. Any suggestion???

3:50 install the new tub seal

I broke the mode shifter trying to get the tub nut off!

I can't seem to get the drive block to come off that you removed at 3:01. It moves a couple millimeters and makes a snap sound as if it is going to come off but won't come all the way. Any ideas?

I replaced the seal but it is leaking from around the bottom of the pulley nut. However when replacing the split ring I noticed the gap between the ring had widened could this be contributing to the leak. And please advise what is the purpose of the split ring.

Hi, I am in the middle of trying to figure out what is wrong with my washer. I have the agitator off and also had the same problems as a lot of people with removing the nylon drive block piece (at 3:00 on video) it was stuck to the mode drive shaft piece. That is in fact why I am typing this. Was there suppose to be grease on that piece? Mine was dried and flaking. So I have some gear grease and was planning on putting a light coat on right before sealing the machine back up again. Making sure that is a correct move, since it was hard to tell from the video if there is gear grease on the inside of that drive block piece. Is the old grease in there leakage from the bearing underneath?

i try to get the washer nut off it will not move help d-40 will not help to loosen it.

Does anyone know where I can get a inner tube drum mount for a GTUP270EM4WW? I can't find one..

ok

Great but how about ge stack model gtup240em5ww can't do it this way totally different

Everybody has a Dremel except me!

whered do I get a tub nut wrench?

I've been try to remove the nut all day, it just does not want to move. It does say clockwise and this is what i'm doing. Any suggestions. Thank you.

I just replace the tub seal n now its still leaking

uer

Good luck remembering how to put all of that back together correctly.

Lol sure jan

Uh I guess I'm buying a new washer

Shoot me