i wish the video started with the symptoms and sounds of this part gone bad.

This is a very informative video. I wish the machines I take apart were nearly as clean and straightforward as this. By the time the bearing wears out, the machines are gunked up and some of the what looks like simple steps can take a lot of extra effort. Still, it's nice to see how things come apart in an ideal situation. Thank you for being so thorough.

These videos were so helpful. I had a lot of difficulty removing the tub nut. I had to cut it with my Dremel Drill and a chissel. I also changed the tub seal as long as I had it all apart I'm glad I did

I'm a do it yourself guy just had this problem with my GE washer after watching this very long, long process I will just buy another washer this is gonna take at least half a day !

Some tips from a guy who does these a lot, 1,That bearing never comes out that easy for me. I usually end up tapping it out from the top end with a piece of pipe or socket just smaller in diameter than the bearing. Use the old bearing to tap in the new bearing. 2,Could never figure out the logic(except money savings) why they only use ONE screw to secure the bearing to the tub so I add a second,Just make sure it is the same length,If it is longer you could end up puncturing through the tub 3,If you are replacing this bearing because your machine is noisy in spin and the machine is NOT leaking from the tub seal above this bearing, you are most likely going to do this job for nothing. Check the mode shifter . Take the belt of and then grab the big pulley that the belt wrapped around and move it side to side and up and down. There should be NO play in any direction, 4, If the tub bearing truly is bad and the cause of this was a leaking tub seal then you are best off replacing the mode shifter also since water has also gotten into it.Along with the tub seal and bearing of course 5,ALWAYS change the tub seal when doing this job.Even if it is not leaking, The trauma you will put it through by pulling the tub out with all the crud built up around it is not doing it any favors and you are asking for bigger trouble just to save 10 dollars, 6. Make a note that two components in this machine break very often. The motor (250 dollars) and the main control board 125 dollars), So question your sanity if your are fixing this machine .You WILL have to replace these two items in the not so distant future 7.If your sanity is in tact and you decide to buy a new machine there is only one machine I would recommend. I am not getting paid by them so I won't plug their machine by giving out the name., But I will give you a hint. It is a top loader with no electronic components. Just good old mechanical timer. selectors switch etc. Stainless steel inner tub and plain old agitator It's currently around 800 dollars retail. Made in the USA for over a hundred years. Hope this helps Note: If anyone at Speed Queen is interested in having me plug their machine please respond to this :) Note: I truly have no affiliation with Speed Queen

I agree Adam. It is quite involved. If you have to do it I hope it goes smoothly.

We're happy to help!

Thank you so much Repair Clinic! Excellent video!

Thank you for the info, just order the wrench, hope I can put it together .

Lmao, this was like watching a comedy sketch. Literally have to disassemble the entire washer to replace that piece.Makes you think they designed it like this on purpose.I think I'll suffer with the noise.

Thanks a lot KZfaq.. just fixed my washing machine :)

This video worked great for my GE Model GTWN3000M1WS. The only big difference was my lid switch didn't have a convenient place to unplug so I just took the switch out of the lid assembly. Because of its age, nearly twenty years of gunk (hard water minerals and detergent) slowed me down. Scraping out the gunk and letting WD-40 do its thing eventually worked. The old split washer broke during disassembly so I also replaced that. There was a rubber or silicone piece at the bottom of the tub that looked really warped so I replaced that as well. Thanks again for super clear instructions.

I purchased a new GE washer and my husband hooked it up for me 10 days ago. The first thing we noticed is that the water didn't fill the tub even though it was set on super load. When the washer started to do its thing, there was loud thumping noises and awful screeching noises coming from the washer. We checked the washer and figured there was something wrong. I called GE service the next day, Mon, Oct 23rd and they finally called me back two days later on Wed, Oct 25th. The service tech would be there on Fri, Oct 27 but unfortunately, there was a miscommunication and he showed up on Mon, Oct 30th. This brand new washer needs a transmission, circuit board and a hose with a sensor. I called Home Depot where I bought the washer and there was nothing they could do for me. I had to wait for the service tech to file his report before GE would call me back. Today, Nov 1st, I called GE and told them I wanted answers and of course, a new washer. Now I have to wait until a manager calls me back. This washer has never had a load of wash in it. Why do I want new parts put on it??? Where is the customer support that GE used to be known for????

We recommend using the repair help section of our website (link in the description). If you enter your model number there you'll have access to model, part and symptom specific repair help.

This video is hilarious, you don't have to dismantle the control panel to remove the washer unit,plus,the bearing you replaced is usually NEVER responsible for excessive noise during spin,The ball bearing in the bottom of the mode shifter assembly is at fault, Same thing in the older washers with transmissions in them,usually caused by tub seal failure which is VERY common on post 1995 GE washers.

Thank you so much. Very detailed explanation

This video is fine and you can easily replace this within 1-2 hours depending on your skill levels. 1) You may need two peaces of rope loops to remove agitator - specially if your agitator has never been removed in the past. 2) You will need special Suparco TB123 Wrench Part #A66133 to remove the inner drum nut. Also, if the inner drum nut is stuck - you will need PB Blaster or Liquid Wrench to loosen it first. Standard WD40 IS NOT a nut loosener (though they have another product similar to PB Blaster and Liquid Wrench. ) 3) If you are replacing a tub bearing, you SHOULD also replace the Rubber seal inside too. 4) Bearing and seal replacement may not fully solve the noise problem, if the problem is in the clutch assembly. So - you may have to replace clutch assembly. Now, if you replace Bearing, Seal and Clutch Assembly that will truly fix it.

You should be able to get it at any home improvement/hardware store.

Great video. Machine was making very loud sounds on spin. Replaced mode shifter and tub bearing. Mode shifter was the issue but since I had to take entire machine apart also replaced bearing. Which is not easy to remove. Replaced tub seal also which came with the mode shifter. Now hums like a Ferrari. Video very helpful. Thanks! Saved me $400.

You're welcome!

This would be fun to try, but the transmission is probably not long for the world either. I've repaired it several times over the years. Time to just get a whole new machine. Hopefully repairclinic makes parts & videos to keep it going too.

Hmmm.... My GE Top Load is 17 years old and getting real noisy. This video was very very helpful and insightful. Thanks. I called my plumber.

Sir during replacement of new spin tub bearing. It is ok to apply small amount grease inside before inserting transmission shaft ?

HI have the same model washer. I had checked it today and saw that there was a sputter of what looked like grease all over the bottom metal base of the washer. I also checked the agitator and the bolt was partially loose. The washer makes an abnormal loud noise when washing. Any advice on this would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.

I will just mention that very loud noise when on spin cycle on this line of washers is often due to a faulty mode shifter assembly which is an over $100 part. Don't assume noise during spin is due to the tub bearing. The tub bearing in this washer line is a sleeve without any ball bearings like you might think. Lastly, the tub nut is VERY difficult to remove even with a spanner wrench. I had to use a cordless impact gun with a 1 11/16 deep socket to remove it.

I found this very useful but here is more information, my machine was made in 2010, so unlike this video it was not new and easy to disassemble. It was making a grinding noise when agitating, quite loudly. I assume the tub was acting like a sound resonator. Before starting I ordered a new tub bearing (which I didn't need). screws at back of control panel are 1/4" hex. there are three electrical connectors on the control panel that have to be disconnected - good to know because there is an unused connector on the motherboard (maybe that is for machines with more features). Screws holding top panel and lid are also 1/4" hex but longer than the screws for the control panel. Screws holding the control relays under the control panel are all 1/4". The ones on my machine in the back were black, the others silver. Screws holding down shock dampening straps are 5/16" with attached washers. - Removing the drive block that engages the agitator is the first major difficulty. I used a 30 mm socket and pounded on block all around a few times - the purpose of the socket was spread out the pounding so the lands did not get deformed. The drive block is splined and sets on a splined shaft that was rusty. Next time I will buy a new drive block and use a sharp chisel to cut this nylon type plastic part off. I reused it, but I don't think I could get it off again. - The next major difficulty was removing the 1 11/16 inch nut. I could not get it off. I finally cut it off using a cobalt drill bit and cold chisel - so I had to order one. The bottom of the nut is beveled, thicker in the middle. The agitator hub appears to be made out of some type of aluminum alloy. The nut sintered metal - kind of rough - unlike a machined nut. I tried heating the nut up thinking it was frozen to the threaded shaft - that was not the case. The beveled part was frozen to the hub. The hub had some white with greenish corrosion on it where it met the nut. What I should have tried was heating the hub up, heating up the nut just expanded it to hold onto the hub tighter. There is no plastic at this point so applying heat should not hurt anything. The grounding wire is held on with a 1/4" hex screw. The hose clamp takes a 5/16" hex socket. The bolts under the pulley are 3/8 inch. The bolts securing the base frame to the outer tub are 1/2" You need about a 10" or longer zip tie to hold the overflow tube. - when I got to this point I noticed that the mode shifter had a plastic washer in the assembly that was demolished. I could not see how to replace this washer - so I ordered a new assembly (GE WH38X10017) that included the shaft, mode shifter and a new tub seal. With shipping almost $130 for a genuine part. Unfortunately the tub seal, while the right size for the shaft was a bit small for the tub - I think I could make it work with silicone or two part epoxy, maybe with some white teflon pipe tape. I would have to wait forever for the silicone to harden and two part epoxy tends to be hard and breakable. The wife was getting antsy. Fortunately the old tub seal wasn't leaking and in reasonable shape, so I reused it. I think I will try disassembling the broken mode shifter to see how and if the plastic washer could be replaced. It looks like there is some type of ring pressed on to the end of the shaft that would block putting on a new washer.

3:08 Oh crap.

What causes the grinding noise when the washer initially spins - before water comes into the tub? The grinding noise becomes more pronounced when the agitator spins? Do I need to replace the tub bearing, seal, and mode shifter?

I love Repair Clinic and watched this video several times, including when I disassembled the washer's innards. I successfully replaced the seal, tub bearing and mode shifter; I had a mode shifter failure, caused by a tub seal leak. I did the tub bearing since I was in there already. Note to the uninitiated, however; as others have noted, this video shows somebody dismantling a new, factory-fresh machine. After a few years of corrosion, caused by failure of the tub seal, the reality of removing that nut is very different. The tub seal leak/failure is inevitable. I will be checking my seal for leaks, regularly, from here on out. Corrosion will inevitably form around the tub seal, pushing it out of shape. Water and a world of pain follow. GE could certainly have done several things to avoid the problem, but all of these options would have cost a few pennies more. Bad news/good news. The bad news is that on a real-world, used machine, the tub nut will be so fused and corroded onto the inner tub and mode shifter shaft that I can't imagine that you would ever loosen it with the wrench from Repair Clinic. However, the wrench is useful when you need to tighten/put on the new one, so you will need it. However, where the video shows the tech tapping the hammer 4 times to loosen the nut is ONLY true on a brand new machine, with no corrosion. The only way that tub nut was coming off on my real-world machine was with drilling and chopping it out with a long and narrow drill bit and a long and narrow cold chisel. I tried several days of soaking and tapping with PB Blaster; nothing, at all. The tub nut was truly fused to that collar and shaft. My nut only, finally, came out in about 10 pieces, bit by bit. Not exactly a few taps of the hammer...:-). I bought my new nut and used it as a gauge, so I knew how to drill/the shape of the nut. I used a 3/16" diameter 15" long bit and a long ("star drill") cold chisel that is roughly 5/16" thick and about 15" long. I ground the star drill to form a long straight cold chisel. I drilled carefully around the nut, about every 5/16." Very happily, the nut is a light alloy that drills easily. When the drill gets to the bottom of the nut, you can feel the drill grab a bit; just go carefully. Chop the pieces out, prying the chunks away from the spindle threads. Once you have the right tools (a long drill and a long, narrow cold chisel), it really is quite easy/fast. The other bad news is that the tub bearing will also be welded into the tub; again, due to corrosion. If you want to replace that, the only way to get it out, for me, was driving it out, using the old spindle, a pipe, and a 5 pound sledge. Finally, the pulley nut is also seriously "on there." I finally got mine off with a breaker bar and pipe extension. Again, the nut was corroded/frozen, as well as probably being tight, to begin with. The good news is that the order of events the video outlines is really solid; follow the steps and you'll be successful. Putting the new stuff in is easy and fun, after the surgery required to get it apart. The really good news is that my washer runs like a silent top, now. It is fun to use it! I also understand how the thing works in a way that wasn't possible before. The final good news is that I know that I need to check the tub seal pretty often. I also know that popping the front off is easy/simple, so there's no reason not to check for leaks before things get bad. Thanks, Repair Clinic, for the step by step video and the factory parts! I took photos of the process. Here they are, if you are struggling with the tub nut. One look at the corrosion and failed seal, in the photos, should explain why it is so hard. Finally, there's a photo of me driving out the tub bearing, using a pipe and the old spindle: drive.google.com/drive/u/0/folders/1PJfOllj19jQFXAcwGtlgSRxgjjFRllWn

Great step by step video. However, if your washer is over 10 years old, I think it’s wiser to ALSO replace the drive shaft and shifter assembly ($120-$200) at the same time. Otherwise you may be going back in again in a couple of months. But hey, for around $200 and a few hours, you can get another ten years out of your ol’ machine!

Thank you!

GREAT video. Just replaced mine with your help.

What kinda nice. I have a grinding when it agitates. Sounds like a good sized rock or country in the spinning gears when it spins for anything

I've gotten as far as taking off the hub nut - like quite a few people in the comments... I believe the technical term is "stuck but good"? I'm considering ordering a replacement nut and trying to drill/chisel the old one apart {probably properly brush and clean the grooves afterwards}. With that in mind, and with very basic tools, anything in particular I should be careful of to avoid collateral damage?

Very detailed!

Would have been nice to hear what it sounded like before to know whether it might be same issue.

i have a roper washing machine top load its really loud on wash and rinse what is wrong help please

Great job!

It made a lot of sense to make an agitator bolt out of non treated metal that rusts .

People banging the plastic tub around can break it instantly. Should lifting the assembly require two helpers to protect the tank?

Please can anyone please tell me the size of that wrench spanner. That iron bar used after removing the agitator. Thank you

Step 1. Unplug washer. Step 2. Turn off water supply valves and remove supply hoses from supply valves. Step 3. Remove Washer and buy new one. Done

After messing with my 12 year old GE washer the last two weeks I learned a lot about how crappy these are made, especially this specific transmission and it's faulty design are, a little google searching finds all the posts and comments all over the web about this notorious POS GE transmission that they knew about since 1995 and have done nothing about. My saga started with a simple minor tub leak, so I decided to buy a new seal and bearing, got those ordered, took the machine apart and found the bottom bearing on the transmission was shot, not wanting to mess with all this plus finding the bearings and parts, I bought a factory reconditioned transmission on Ebay from a big appliance outfit for $128 and a 6 mo warrantee. I got that, put it in, and was putting the whole thing back into the cabinet when I suddenly noticed an 8" long CRACK in the cheap plastic outer tub! $75 later a new one was on my doorstep the next day, the old one was so brittle that just flexing it broke chunks out, Imagine that happening when full of water! I get the whole shebang back in, and with 4 new rubber retainer deals for the tub, new drain hose and went to wash a load, no more leak, but then it wouldn't SPIN, I could get it to spin if I pushed the pully and "jump started" it then the motor would do it. That motor turned free, so the bearings were fine, so I figured the starting capacitor was bad, replaced that $20- same problem! so I figured the stator on the motor maybe had some issue and it was weak, I bought a new in box OEM GE motor on Ebay for $119, but that came damaged in shipping- the aluminum housing was cracked, they issued a full refund, so I ordered another motor from another seller, meanwhile since the stator was intact I took the old motor apart, swopped the aluminum ends onto the other motor and tested it, turned just fine, spun freely, so I put that in, SAME exact problem!!! this new motor wouldn't spin even an EMPTY tub unless I first pushed the pully on it to help the motor start turning. So that was the last straw on this POS, best I can figure is the transmission is too tight internally or something and putting too much of a load on the motor (either the old or the new one- same thing happened) which gets VERY hot- you cant even briefly touch the metal case of the motor after just one small "light" wash cycle. It otherwise agitates just fine. I bought a new machine, told the transmission seller I wanted to return that item as it appears defective, so I got my money refunded on that, and I calncelled the other motor and got a refund on that, so far I'm out $177 I can't recover. This machine's transmission design sucks, you get one tub leak and that's pretty much the end of the transmission bearing and probably even the motor, what pisses me off is this exact transmission is notorious for having a defective design, with many people reporting the brake fails, and the bearing fails. Had I read that before last night I'd have junked the thing- no point repairing a defective design that will have the same problems again.

I didn't replace the tub seal. Just the bearing and washer. But still loud during spin. Any help?

Hi Where can I buy the top 1/16nnuts remover?

Wish i knew what the symptoms were, or what it sounded like... Our GE style top load washer is going crazy when it goes into spin cycle. Most videos show it being the counter weight(cement block) coming loose, but i disassembled everything, and the counter weight is good and tight and in place... I'm really at a loss as to what else it could be.

Doesn't do us any good to show how to make a repair unless we first know what repair is needed. So if you're gonna say this repair is for a "loud noise," then why not start with a recording of that noise, so we'll know if that's the right diagnosis? Clunking noise? Shrill whine? WHAT noise?

I have a he top load, the more water in the tub the lower it drops and makes a loud grinding noise. I knocked the bottom pan down with a hammer but when filled with water only duty washing cycle still the tub drops f down too low. not as bad now but still a problem. can the support rods be bad?

What did it sound like before fix ?

I went through all of the disassembly and now I cannot get the stupid bearing out. Don’t waste your time with this fix unless you feel very lucky. Parts are fairly cheap online but if you have to pay someone to do this you may as well buy a new washer. Not even positive the noise is from the tub bearing. If you are going to do the tear down, plan to replace all possible sources of the noise. I will order a new washer today. We live in a disposable world.

your most likely using a new washer to do the demo, I got a 7 year old washer and the metal nut is frozen with salt, so when I saw your video I said I can do this Eze having a plumber back ground, but nope I'm stuck and going to need more parts.

I live in an apartment and dare not do this with their machine, lol. However, I also doubt the maintenance mechanics know how to do this much as well and if they do...I will be extremely impressed. I put in a service request today, I'll update if mine is fixed, lol

Anyone know the symptoms of a bad hub bearing?

When this bearing goes out does leak water also? Mine is like a rocket taking off.

trying to take tube off! But the whole spindle is turning, along with the nut? Why, nut is turning but won't come off for the spindle turning!! Help!!

The average person will not have all these tools and the skills to do this. Average person will go buy new machine if professional repair cost too much. Salute to DIY Pros! Haha

Basically lets put the part most prone to messing up in a washer in the hardest spot where you have to disassemble the whole thing.

Why would you not put a coating of grease on the inside of the bearing, before you installed the shaft?

Is there any way to know what the symptomatic noise would be? I'd sure love to hear what a failing bearing sounds like before I go through with the repair. Anybody got a youtube link or something?

Mine grinds only when washing i guess spinning backwards(agitating) but not when spinning during drainage...?

I wish they would explain how that could possibly be causing a grinding noise.

Thanks guys Which Klein nut driver the master uses ? Which model ? Thanks

ZIGNER, If you could please give me the brand of the deep socket you used on the tub nut. I have been searching for one that will fit over the spindle and have come up short. Waiting patiently with machine apart now . . . . .150 ft/lbs is alot of torque!

How can change the bearing?

Where to buy the spanner nut wrench? What is the nut size? Any part number for the spanner wrench? Thank you so much!

If it's a read loud spin cycle noise and I mean loud, it most likely a Mode Shifter & Shaft Assembly.. Just done the replacement, The hardest part for me was getting the inter tub nut off... I had the spanner nut tool still would budge,,,, I drill several holes and use a cold chisel to take the nut off in pieces.. The nut drills easy so be careful.....

Very helpful video, ut can you please tell me where can I get the 111/16 wrench to remove the hex nut? Skorpion

Greetings, I have a Maytag Bravos MVWB755YQ0. I replaced the tub bearing with a tub bearing kit and using the appropriate bearing press. During the last 6 min of the final spin, as the basket increases in speed, a tapping/knocking sound develops. Does anyone know the cause and solution to the problem? I have no error code displayed on the panel.

Oh good, I thought this would be a complex repair

Tengo una lavadora general electric hydrowave modelo gtwn5250doww enciende llena pero no lava y menos centrífuga la luz Led q tiene la tarjeta del motor enciende 3 veces

Replaced the Hub bearing and tub seals. Did not correct the extremely load noise. Any suggestions?7

the control panel doe's not have to be removed for this Job. The whole tub will come out after it is loose by bending forward with the motor dis connected and the shocks released.

I don't want to go to all the trouble to replace the bearing and find out the issue was the Clutch assembly/shaft. Is there a way to tell if the bearing is bad once you get it all apart? Can you tell if the clutch assembly is bad when the shaft is removed out of the bearing?

Must you remove the drive pulley and belt? Can you not just remove the bolts on the outer basket frame and lift out the motor and mode selector shaft from the tub intact? It seems like a lot of extra work having to disassemble the drive pulley.

i have this wash machine. question, it does not wash the clothes, however it does work in filling w/ water, makes a slight noise during the wash cycle (but does not move). now at the end it spins just fine during the spin cycle. just will not wash. any suggestions?

Damn. Did they really just take apart every single nut and skrew and bolt from the entire thing. " 1st .remove all the walls. Remove all the electronics. Remove. The feet. Because.. hell why not"

Do you need to add grease to the bearings?

Does anyone know where a necklace would go if it were lost during cycle?

Wonder how long you can run in noisy condition ?

My GE Profile washer large tub # WPRE6100GOUT is similar but has no agitator bolt to remove, under the fabric dispenser, so skip that step and just pull the agitator out hard.

So how much will it cost for that part?

Having the ball bearing within the brake/clutch assembly that is attached to the gear box is just as likely for giving off excessive noise. Especially during the spin cycle. Take this into consideration everyone. Complete job takes about 2 hours.

The hex nut is really stuck, any ideas?

Correction a 1 11/16 deep socket was used

Helpful video but it should also state that you should replace the tub seal why you are doing this

How on earth did the machine in the video break? I dont think it’s ever been used.

Do you think my problem is a tub bearing? Here's a short clip that shows what the noise is like: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/ec6Th9yBzdqmkmQ.html I thought it was the counterbalance and took the machine apart intending to replace it. But the counterbalance seemed fine. This machine is at my summerhouse and gets very minimal use, as we are only there weekends July-Sep. I bought it three years ago and it started making this noise at the end of last summer. I wouldn't think any part would wear out that quickly. I'm really disappointed but will feel better at least if I can fix it myself... Thanks to anyone who wants to offer a diagnosis!

Time for new washer

Wow this bearing diagnosis was totally wrong for my washer, had to buy the transmission. So now I have to take this thing apart all over again and this wasn't worth it at all. More info on isolating the problem is needed, bearing was just fine, not worn at all. UGH!

Defeated by the tub nut - I have called in the repairman! The cheaper tub nut tool (the pukka one is $50!) is not very good, as it doesn't fit the nut closely. But it took a lot of hammering, so I think it's just my machine that's to blame. The cheap tool should be okay for you if you don't do this for a living.

My GE washer is probably a little over a year old. The belt has slip off and after I put it back on I can see as the drum rotates the belts want to slip off. It looks like the wheel is set too low and the belts rides too high. I thought maybe the wheel may have slip lower but looking at another video the wheel is lock tight and cannot adjust the height. The belt has not stretch since it took 4 tries to get it on correctly. It took so many tries because I can see the belt riding high and wants to come off. Sure enough, the belt came off during a test run. Never buy this cheap design again and will now have to buy a Whirlpool washer instead of a cheap GE.

*MISLEADING*. Last month I went with the strong title recommendation, spent $80 on the tub bearing, seal, washer, split ring and agitator coupling PLUS the 1 1/4" specialized tool. Everything was stuck. After a few hours, the job was done and the high pitch screeching noise was back with a vengeance. By curiosity, I applied sprayed oil at the joint on the transmission and brake assembly... the horrible noise went away! I know that I just bought some time (I ordered a new GE washer & dryer set, satisfied with the 16+ years they gave me). There were signs of long term splash water. I tend to agree with condor5635 below as a more plausible fix, but again you might need to destroy some parts to remove them and despite the new seal, I could see drips of water again.

My washer is making loud noise when spinning. Ugh

I don't understand how that little piece of metal can make such noise if the tub bearing is secured within the inside of the tub.. going through all this effort to dissemble the washer to the core and finally after the reassemble and still get no significant results. Kinda waste several hours of my life i may never get back.

This should be demonstrated with a USED machine that has all kinds of corrosion on the nut and clutch assy. that it seems impossible to remove without damage. Its like they make it so you do damage it and have to pay more. I found out my machine has a bad wobbly bearing of the mode shifter that was causing a roaring sound when spinning from the clashing gear inside. Im more unhappy that I spent so much in tools I cant return only to ruin the shaft nut thats made of aluminum and of course they NEVER add a little antiseize to anything to guarantee you break something else and have to spend more. Im just going to huck this and spring for a new washer. I think this one was refurb or something as one of the rubber isolators on top was not in place and the screw was missing.

I think it's time to just buy a new machine LMAO but keeping the control panel just in case

What in the washer repair machine, Batman!!!!!!!!!!!????????????

The video doesn't describe what to do if the 1 11/16 nut is rusted to the shaft.

all these videos show the spanner nut comes off easy......this not true......been trying to break it loose for two months now....wd 40 and all..........help please

Funny how they use a new washer when making these kinds of videos. If your washer is old enough to need a bearing, it IS NOT coming apart this easy LOL