Have you converted your fuel injected Evo over to a carburetor, the new Delphi setup or still running the old Mag system?

13:34 I’m a carb guy and recently bought an 03 FI Road King. I also bought an all inclusive conversion kit from Broken Sprocket Garage to do the carb conversion. Although the Delphi system is working fine, I’ve noticed that some parts are no longer available and I prefer to be proactive rather than reactive. I’ll continue to ride it until next fall/winter when I intend to just do the conversion. Thanks for putting up this vid as well as all your others.

You just help me make the decision to sell, and cut my losses. I was lucky, 100k on the bike with no problems until now. Thanks for the video!

Great video. And yes converting to carb of Delphi is always a nice option. But for those who still are running the MM system I do have a few tips and tricks to help solve some of the main problems with them. I've been tuning harleys from flat heads to current M8 models for 18+ years. And have used every carb and efi system out there (including all the different flash tuners, replacement ECM and piggyback systems out there) so off the bat I yes I have a good grasp on these things. The first thing you have to remember is that the MM system is VERY basic in its workings. Most of the time if the ecm itself is fine its usually something basic wrong with them. Idle problems usually being the most common. Here are the most common issues I run into with the MM 1. Intake seals, If you have ever removed the throttle body for an MM bike you will see that the fitment of the manifold between the heads is very loose, more so on the EVO bikes. James makes a intake seal to replace the standard 26995-86B with a seal that covers the end of the manifold like a hat. this makes the manifold wider for a tighter seal. This is a must for these if you are replacing them. I used them for the first time back 2002 and I always use them now. Leaking intake seals give the engine somewhere else to draw air in. And like i said these are a very simple and basic EFI. Both cold and hot idles use manual screw settings like a carburetor and don't have the ability to chase idle. 2. Lately I have had several MM bikes that came in running, But running like total crap. After checking and in tern replacing the leaking intake seals, idles improved but there was something else not quite right. Some did have multiple ECM codes, others did not. Each one was fixed by replacing the system and EFI relays. Due to the age of the them the contacts inside have seen a better day. And again being a simple system, unlike modern EFI systems, when the detect low voltage they shutdown to protect themselves, MM don't. They will still try to run and with the low voltage they can not supply both sensors and injectors with proper operating voltage. I have also found myself changing them on later Delphi bikes, mostly the main 30 or 40 amp main breaker. 3. Injector Wires. This applies to the MM and the early Delphi systems. When the bikes are made Harley uses the GIVE THEM JUST ENOUGH WIRE mentality. Both on the MM and early Delphi (PRE 2006) the wires are quite tight. Over time the up and down motion of the engine can cause the copper wire inside to brake. and once that last copper strand breaks it becomes a big Buell Blast. The outside of the wire will look fine but once removed from the injector you'll find it to be a limp noodle usually right at the connector. Adding a inch to the wires with new connector pins fixes it right up. 4. Crank and Cam position sensors. A good rule of thumb is if you are still running the stock cam and crank sensors, you should change them on principle. Mainly the crank position sensor. The crank sensor is the ECM's eyes and is how it calculates the engine's rotational position. If it can't see, it can't run. But most importantly the stock sensors for both MM and some early Delphi, the end of the sensor closest to the crank has and exposed metal point on it directly attached the mile long angle hair coil winding. If the piece comes loose you'll have all that winding in your crank bearings and then your bottomend is porked. Harley revised the sensors to be enclosed with both the replacement and later sensors to avoid this problem. 5. Engine temp sensor and wires. Now I've change lots and I mean lots of engine temp sensors on MM to present bikes. But with the MM they can really make your day suck. Being a very simple system they use the engine temp data for most of it operation. If you have a MM that runs well then as your riding falls on it's face hard, and after setting for a bit the bike run fine again, it's probably the engine temp sensor. The wires can also suffer from the aforementioned just long enough problem. And remember, broken wires will trip an ecm code. Bad sensor may not. As long as the reading from the sensor are within operational range it won't trip a code. Think of it like this. Running down the road hot you'll be around 240 Deg F. Now all of the sudden the ecm thinks its now at -10 deg F. Thinking the bike is in a block of ice the ecm adjust fuel and timing for that temp. But because it' still in its operational range it didn't trip a code. Delphi is worlds smarter and can usually see a massive and fast temp drop and throw a code. Those are most of the main issues I deal with when it comes to the MM system. I'm not saying don't upgrade to a Delphi replacement or carbing the bike, but it can be an expensive upgrade that alot of my customer can't afford. The MM system does have its limitations, I would NEVER throw a 124in Crate engine behind it hoping to make it run. But I have done both 95 in and 103 in kits with 105+ HP & TRQ and made them run great. Use of a Powercommander or a Techno Research Directlink flashing tool (Like a Race Tuner, Powervision, TTS but for the MM) will have to be used but there is still life left in the old MM bikes for those who are on a budget. And please use premium fuel. With the trash fuel we are stuck with today, I run 93 in my push mower. The buck or two you might spend at the pump is well worth the better running of the bike. :)

Switched my 98 Electra glide classic over to carburetor. Pangel kit for the tank, forward facing petcock, CV40 carb, Intake and gasket, PVC crossover tube "for the head breathers", and Daytona twin tech ignition with the single fire coil. Hardest thing to locate was the breather backing plate. Ignition came with instructions. you'll need to replace the rotor bug from a single window to the dual window. Won't be able to static time the system. Didn't need anything from a harness. The only thing that didn't work when I fired it up was the tach. Just had to locate that wire and boom done. My oil pressure gauge, and fuel gauge all worked like they should. Removed all the extra wiring for the EFI, with no issues. Runs like a champ, just road it to Lake Charles, LA and back 1500miles without any mechanical issues. Have about 5k now still good.

I got rid of it on my 2002 RK. I'm running a Ramjet one piece intake and a Mikuni 42mm flat slide. I'm running a Thunderheart ignition that works with the stock crank sensor. I used a Pingle petcock kit for the injected gas tank. I love it. No more pain in the ass fuel filter in the gas tank. And I now have reserve.

I just got myself a 'new to me' bike, not a Harley. But, fully carbureted, air cooled, and for exactly the reasons you talked about. I didn't ever want to be stuck on the side of the road with a computer/injector/sensor problem. I can live with the complications of old school far easier than I can live with the complications of trying to figure out what's wrong with a fuel injected system. I can fix a carb, I can't fix a computer controller.

I threw my Magneti Merrelli EFI in the trash about 8 years ago and my Evo has never ran better. Did all the work myself and purchased everything I needed to do the conversion. 55 mpg and runs FANTASTIC

I would go with the Mikuni HSR42…it’s an excellent Carb, never let me down !

Staying with my Linkert M74 B its a controlled gas leak ! You are 100 % correct on fuel injection ,when its running its great ,when it acts up ,its a nightmare .

I have a 2000 RK Classic. It came stock with fuel injection. Started having problems when the bike got the Stage 2 Big Bore kit (95”). Never seem to get enough fuel and bike would fall flat at about 75/80. Converted to carburetor Mukuni HSR 42 with a new RB Racing 2 into 1 exhaust. Let’s just say that I’m am so pleased I’m beside myself “EVERY” time I ride now. What a world of difference. Money well spent and well worth the investment and conversion.

What’s really fun is when my 2011 Ultra limited starts running very badly after about 25 miles of riding and take it to the dealership for repair. Then after they change fuel pump assembly, ECM, O2 sensors, Throttlebody assembly and they tell you it’s the wiring to the “Map sensor” connector. That’s not a serviceable part and requires a wiring harness replacement on the bike.

A couple guys at the track with EFI sportsters had extensive work ( more than stage 4 ) and were still getting killed by carb sportsters in a strict rule 1230cc max class. They switched over to S&S E & dropped 1/2 second in the 1/8 th. Since then most of the class has switched to Alcohol S&S B carburetor’s

Gxrfu...you are the MAN! Thank God I have the last '05 carbed bike, a few cheap jets, Andrews 21 cams, and your blessings! I LIVE in the POWERBAND!!!

First, thanks Gix for your videos. I know you must put in a ton of research on them. Well done! ...... I recently finished a Mag to CV conversion on my low mileage 98 FLHP and couldn't be happier. The M&M rig worked fine. I'm just an old school guy that believes simple is better so I feel better with the carb setup on the road and far away. I simply unplugged all the shit on the EFI harness, Coiled it up neatly and secured it under the left side cover, Took off the throttle body and all the associated crap in the tank. Put in a Pingle petcock with their adapter and plug. I replaced the stock ignition with the Dynatek 2000 stand alone single fire ignition which I only had to cypher out and tap into the the stock ignition feed and in my case the Police tach. Real easy! I found a barely used CV carb that I went through and regasketed. Gathered up the intake and proper filter/breather mount. I replaced the top motor mount to the carb style one (mainly for the VOES and choke cable). Put on a VOES. Got several jets and dialed it all in. The only snafu was getting the right ignition timing cup. It was a fun project. Glad I did it. BTW my buddies 95 FLT has over 60K with the M&M and it's never missed a beat,

This is a great video for those who still have the MM system. Wish it would have been around in 2004 when mine threw a scrap iron fit. On a trip to the Smoky Mountains. My 99 Ultra would randomly drop the rear cylinder. It would come and go. I can fix most things. But I had zero knowledge of the MM system at the time. Luckily, a technician at the Harley dealer in Ashville NC, helped me get it figured out. His name was Cliff. The guy knew his way around a Harley. He spent pretty much all day on it. But finally found a loose pin inside an injector. This was a bitch to find. But he got it done. Not long after that that TC-88 threw a fit when a cam bearing failed. But, luckily I had warranty on it and HD fixed it. My brother-in-law still has that Ultra with 84k on it.

I recently convert my 05 Delphi Deluxe over to HSR42. It couldn't be better, and feels great everytime I ride.

Good timing, I just ordered an EFI to carb conversion for my 06 Springer, can't wait.

Swapped my 2001 FLHRCI out to carb with a namz harness, dynatek ignition and 40mm cv carb, also put a 95 big bore and a set of 211 cams in it. Still running strong 75k miles

Gixxer, as always, this was an excellent segment! I chose to build my custom 95" Softail Twin Cam with a Mikuni 42 and am very satisfied with the results. I debated early on whether to go F.I. or carb so for me a Harley has always been a machine that is carbureted, mean and lean, sounding as well as running great!

I have a 2002 FSXTDI. I love the Delphi injection system. I drop an ounce of Lucas injector cleaner in every other tank fill. I bought the bike with V&H Big Shots already on the bike. It still has the stock air filter. My bike has 8500 miles on its clock. It had 3200 when I barn rescued it from a slow corrosion death 7yrs ago, stored near the salt water. I need to find a shop that can do a full inspection and update whatever it needs. I replaced the transmission fluid to full synthetic recently. The original fluid came out clean, and no metal on the magnet. When I open the tensioner cover, I will replace the stock oil pump and chain with an S&S kit.

Love your videos, alot of technical made easy to understand! Great job!

Hi Gixxerfoo I actually built my bike from the bits that people throw away and after market parts by that I mean I started with second hand 2003 cases dark horse crank with timken bearing conversion a bunch of S&S bits and so on . When it came to the fuel system the obvious choice was a carburettor but instead of having to mess around with wiring to be able to run an original ECU I opted to use a Morris magneto as no wiring required. Additionally it can all be fixed on the side of the road if need be easy to maintain new condenser and points $15 a year and small and fit in my tool roll. Regards Tim

You saved me a bunch of searching, I’ve been thinking about getting rid of mine on my 01

Thanks for all this research! Thankfully for me all the bikes I got are the more modern design! Good to know about all the things you need about older bike hookups though!

I had actually ran into this problem with my 2001 Ultra back in 2015. I made an appointment with a local bike shop to take out the injection system and replace with a carb, and was going to be happy. Found a better solution, getting a new 2015 Limited as a replacement. Yup, the cost was a bit more, but that new injection system worked so much better than the Magneto Morelli system.... ;) I was happy with the 2001, as it was bumped up to 95 CI, and ran strong when the injection worked, but sometimes things happen that one would normally never consider.

Hanging on to my carbureted TC-88 02 Electra Glide until it either dies or I do. Now that I rebuilt the cam chest with performance upgrades, I have this bike EXACTLY where I want it now. My friends keep telling me I should trade over for an EFI model which will eliminate jet tweaking at different elevations for long-distance trips but that’s what my GL1800 GoldWing is for.

Another really interesting and detailed report....scares me to think about reading both those wiring schematics and making sense of it all tho......

That fuel injection was a nightmare for me for a few weeks until I finally tossed it in the parts bin and put a carb on it. Best move ever. Been trouble free for 10k miles now.

Great video! Great job explaining all of this!

Great information. I have question about my 03 flhtcui. Sometimes the fuel pump runs when the bike is switched off, killing the battery and now the fuel pump doesn’t run at all, ( I’m guessing it’s fried the fuel pump ) Any information on why it runs when everything is switched off would be greatly appreciated.

Lets see an in depth on converting straight to carb. I bought a full intake from sns with a new carb and intake manifold along with of course the air cleaner. I heard there was a module you hook up for spark timing and just send the wires to the carb.

I was apprehensive about buying my 03 road king classic. I could have got a standard with a carb but I wanted the classic. Luckily I have had no problems in 70,000 miles 🤞love the channel 👍😎👍

I've got a '08 XL1200L that came with V&H slash cuts on it. I stuck quiet baffles in it so I can yell over it now and added some back pressure. It had a pretty bad low/mid RPM stutter so I added a DK Customs VIED tuner for $140 and that got rid of about 70% of it and I'm happy with it now. I might add a high air flow DK Customs 828 filter to it and see what happens.

Hello. Congratulations for the video, very well explained. I'm having a bit of luck with my Magneti Marelli as it was working fine. The problem is that I disassembled the bike to adjust the paintwork and, when I put it back together, I started to have difficulty riding at speeds greater than 80 km/h. After this speed there is a loss of power, the engine coughs and fuel consumption increases a lot. I replaced the fuel pump, filter and lines. I also changed the spark plugs and wires. I cleaned the air filter and vents. I suspect I'll have to change the fuel pressure regulator to get the engine power back. Let me know if you understand that I'm on the right track.

I have a 1996 HD Tour Glide! With a MM. Iv had it for over 2 years and haven't had any issues with it yet. I've added to it is External Breather, removed the Air Box and added a Hi Flow Air Intake. Bike is still riding really good.

Swapped 3 MM systems out due to performance issues, fuel leaks and no parts available. I used the Dynatek 2000i on 2 and S&S Hi-4 on the other and used gold rotor cup. Single fire coil on 2 and dual fire on the other. New intake manifolds to support S&S Super E on 2 and CV on the other. Added VOES to each. Used the EFI harness and eliminated unnecessary circuits. I believe it’s 7 circuits out of 20+ that are used. Don’t recall exactly. Easy to tune. Saw increased performance, fuel economy and reliability. Still ride them and enjoy them much more post MM. Would and will do it again it a heartbeat!

Awesome video, thank you. Answered a bunch of questions I had

What are you thoughts on Vented Transmission top cover versus external breather setup versus vented dipstick ? Would make a good video topic.

You neglected to mention doing this on an old FI 96 up Evo is drilling out the old front fuel feed which is the tricky bit. In comparison doing it on a later model is a walk in the park.

Delphi with just an old Power Commander and no O2 sensors will still give you A LOT more performance options, with simple, modular troubleshooting and near-zero maintenance. It doesn't require reading tea leaves and runes sprinkled in chicken blood to get EXACTLY RIGHT. 99% of carbs were only ever just "close enough", adjusted by shadetree hacks, and they don't even stay that consistent over the years. Meanwhile, in 17 years, I had to replace one injector. Noid light diagnosed it in one step. Bought a used take-off from a wrecked cop bike on ebay for 20 bucks. Couldn't be easier or cheaper. No fiddling and futzing with mixture screws, no dead spots in the power curve, no "COUGH, KA-CHUG" that will make you drop the damn bike in a full-lean low-speed turnaround, no worrying about a fire if it goes down on the right side, no crud building up to clean out every year or so, no issues picking up fuel immediately again if you run it empty, no cold-natured hard starting - and the starter lasts a lot longer because it starts right up, EVERY time. I can change the fuel map with many times more precise and granular values with a USB cable instead of having to pull jets and play trial&error with spark plug temperatures, and If I went with one of the newer fuel mappers that use O2 sensors, all that would be sensed and adjusted about 127 times per second on the fly. There's really no comparison and no need for carburetors at all in a high-performance application anymore.

Thanks for your videos and charisma. BtW whats the fart sound at the very beginning of your outtro? Got the neighbor looking weird at me while detailing the bike and watching your videos hahahaha

I have seen some carburetor conversion kits . What do you know about them ? I have a 2001 roadking classic touring and it leaks fuel from what looks like a fuel pressure regulator on the bottom of the intake .

Great videos man! Keep it up.

I converted my 2001 FLHTCI with MM EFI to a carb myself. Was simple and did not have to do anything with the wiring. I just purchased the ignition for the carb’d bike and obtained the carb and remaining parts. Ran great for 60K miles when I sold it.

I got a 97 Ultra with the MM fuel injection a couple weeks ago. It had trouble starting when cold and a rough idle. I gave both the cold and regular idle screws a twist and it runs fine now. Eventually I will check the voltage readings on the throttle position sensor and make any adjustments.

Thank God my 2000 FXST is carburated! That super E gets her movin😉

Biggest issues i have found with the MM system is the temp sensor in the head. Easy temporary fix with the right resistor. I suppose you could leave the resistor in place but the bike will run rough until it warms up. As for the carb swap super simple and the wiring is easy if you leave the ecu in place to control the timing.

I just bought a 2000 fat boy..you just gained a prescriber !! Thanks..I own a 75 Shovel..wiring headlight,tailight,coil battery pretty much it..( Kickstart only) now you know why I bought the 2000 fat boy

I have a MM aim my 2001 Road King with a 95” kit and Wood tw-6H cam and SE heads (in stalled when new). It runs great. Only issue is starting on a hot day. It has an old serial port tuner, that I’ve not been able to read the map on. If is goes I’ll need a new tuner and tune. Until the I’ll keep it - for a 95” it runs stronger than my 2008 110-CVO with the same cam.

Really interesting video I learned a lot from it.

I had a super G carburetor from zippers on my 103 then I bumped up the motor transmision and clutch basket and compensating sprocket plus the final drive is chain drive.

I'm running a Mukuni HSR45 carb on mine. works great

Hey Gixxer, Have a 99 FLHTCI...am seriously looking at the ThunderMaxx/Delphi from Zippers. Simply plug & play. With the ThunderMaxx, just hook up the lap top to find any problems/make changes. Does not appear to be that much more expensive, than going with a carb and less capable ignition. (carb, manifold, box, petcock etc = $ + TIME) I see in the comments that one fellow did so. Would like to know how satisfied he is, a year later? Thank you for the great work!

My M&M injection just started acting up. Last 10 miles of a 950 plus mile trip. Been running flawless for 37000 miles but it is a 2000 model electraglide.

Jesus! I’m glad I’m still carbureted!! Potato potato potato

Just think…your Sportster is so reliable you personally don’t have to worry about all these fixes needed for the twin cam and Milwaukee 8!

I am installing an S&S Super E and Dynatek 2000. Just today I installed the gas tank from a 94 FLHR I found at the SoCal Cycle swapmeet in Long Beach for $200. Installed a Pingle petcock & filter, S&S carb, coil, rotor and ignition module. Next is wiring the module and coil, replacing the throttle cables. Not sure if there's anything else needing to be done. All conversion videos I find here on KZfaq are on twin cams, nothing on FLHR evo's so I'm not sure what else I need to do. Tried running the ignition module wires to the coil through the back up the battery compartment but wires about 5" short so ran to the front and have about 4" extra. Trying to find wiring diagram for a carburated 98 FLHR but can't so far.

I did a carb conversation. Took me about 45 mins. I bought the s&s super e kit and a thunder heart stand alone ignition system. It was really simple.

watching anybody with a new Harley and a low battery try to start it, only to watch the system have enough juice to turn the starter but not keep the ECM alive, so the bike wont start -- that's reason enough to me that carbs have always been better, period. Most people have zero idea what it's like to have a carb thats tuned 100% correctly. But when you do, especially the Harley CV carb, they're bulletproof reliable.

Just finished converting my 96 tour glide to the Zipper’s kit and working out well so far

I'm shopping for my first Harley, and I've narrowed the Harley world down to a Road King with an Evolution engine. What years will I have to hunt for to avoid fuel injection? It's my understanding that the Electra-Glide Sport was the predecessor to the RK and should only be found carbureted. IF I have to hunt for an FLHS instead, are there better years to watch for? I'm assuming that the Evo improved during its production, so an early 90's copy would be better.................but I definitely want a carb. Am I hunting for a unicorn?

Love the ama poster in the back!

What do you think of the HPI mm conversion system

Might have to go with the Delphi kit. My 99 roadking classic has a "CAL 03" code that won't go away.

Can you convert a 2001 twin cam 88b to the zippers delphi efi kit?

I have an 01 converted to carb. With a Daytona twin tech and it’s bad ass. I’m a carb 88-95” guy and it bags off the limiter.

Have you ever done a swap from efi to carb? I have a 04 103se electra that you can use on your video for the swap....

Those new lectron carbs really work nice right out of the box for most Harleys, and it uses gravity to self adjust. Its my goto for any 2/3/4 wheeler with existing carb setups.

1999 Road King classic is the bike I am converting. The carb and ignition swap was not difficult I used a Super E carb kit and a TC 88-30018 Ignition and harness However, the other stuff is what I am struggling with signal lights my flashers and all the wiring for them was removed with my original harness. any ideas of a company where I can get a plug and play harness that includes the flashers and signal light wiring? any help is appreciated

What about converting from carb to efi? 2003 touring model Can’t find any videos or material on it. Would the best plan to do is putting the whole wiring harness?

I put a Zippers on my nephews fat boy... Very simple, and really easy set up.. the best part is, the zip self tunes... it's more then worth it.

I recently purchased a 2002 heritage softail. It has a August 2001 build date and as far as I can tell it has the Magnetti Marelli efi system. 19k mile bike. Should I be worried about it giving me trouble or not?

What is the name of the carb that works on an emulsifier system

I have the Mag fuel injection on my 01 ultra. It runs flawless with the cobra fuel controller. if i did ever have problems with the mag i would defiantly go carb.

I have a fuel injected Vulcan 1500 that has electrical gremlins and the spark is all controlled by the ECU which I have now replaced. I'm tempted to just go carb and custom harness with m.unit.

I like to know more about converting from a mag to carb system.

i had a 2012 1200c i converted to a carb due to the low speed hunt i never could get fixed.all i did was insalled a pingle petcock and bought a intake and cv carb off ebay.ran it along time on the stock ignition.i finally bought that stand alone german system but it made very little differance in the way it run.my mpg was around 42 to 44 with the efi with the carb it went to 50 to 52.just leave the ecm alone so can control the speedo and everything else

What do you think about 06 road king police? found one for 7k thinking about getting it.

Yes would love to see the convertion from EFI to carb.My 05 Deuse is EFI.And it works as it should.But the sound is a lot different from a carburetored bike Kinda if it's not broke don't fix it thing.Iv thought of finding a wrecked Soft Tail Deuse with the carburetor and use that to convert but at the same time my bike was factory installed EFI.So I'm thinking it's best to just leave it as is.Because like you said in the video you have to get the right timing unit and would the charging and stator also have to be changed? I'm not a certified motorcycle machanic.But do have mechanical skills.Im just thinking it's probably best to leave the EFI simply because it works.After riding at see level then going up north to ride in the mountains.The EFI had no issues at different elevations it ran and performed the same.Thanks for sharing but would love to see the how to switch from EFI to carb.Sounds like a fun project.

Way too much trouble btw gonna change the subject do twin cam 88"s have any issues with the compensator

Harley gave us this mag system that doesn't work and now discontinued the wiring harness to convert to a carb. Way to go Harley I always know you would have are backs.

I bought a 1997 Ultra Glide Classic should I change it over from the old m m system ? Bike only had 19,000 runs like a top tho. But not loud enuf for me .

I'm about to walk down that road with my 2000 elec glide with the mag system. Big bore big cams and totaled in 2019. Roller frame then convert to carb. I do believe you bought the wooden flag I had made for me that I didn't like and had the fella change to 13 starts around the bar and shield 😮 let me know if you bought it from a fella in Pennsylvania.

What about the thunder heart by pass kit? To convert.. to carb. I bought it and it comes with everything to do the ignition off of the crank position sensor. Cost about $350

I'm curious as to what electrical components need rewiring when ditching the MM system for a carb? Can you make a video of that? Preferably very soon, or reply to this comment. Seems like a aftermarket ignition would solve all of the issues...... I'll be doing that soon with a 1999 FLHRCI.

Would love to change mine over to a carb

would be great if you could show a video on a conversion to the carburetor from the Magnelli system parts needed and how . Thanks for all your great videos.

can you use stock ecm?

This is my first block head motorcycle. Bought an 06 fat boy last summer. Runs great with 19000 on it. Got it from a dude it was his dad's bike and he knows nothing about it . Gave me a case of syn 3 bike seems to be cared for Only thing is EFI scares me. Always ran s&s on my shovels with good luck

Can you do this with a 103? I have a 14 ultra classic and really would love to go back to a carb without losing power

Good morning 🌅, GixxerFoo, as you know I have just recently purchased my Deuce, 2003 , I have heard from you and a lot of other people that fuel injection system can be a problem, and as you say when it is running fine, it is good but when it fails, you’re in deep shit, Like all other electronics , As you know, I purchased my first brand-new deuce back in 2000, and I had spent a lot of money on it, and it was carb, when I was trying to source another bike, I had found quite a few with the fuel injection system on which I did not want, I think it’s cost me some more money. I’ve purchased a carbureted version from the UK. It had a HSR 42 on it, but it had the wrong size jets in it, Chinese shit , it is now all ready for the test, next week, I still have a problem with the alarm system on the bike, I have been looking 👀 for a dough bike, I did have someone come back to me and told me that I should link 2 wires to earth 🌍, 😂 I will wait until winter to see if it works, Stay safe catch up with you tomorrow, France.

Ignition, coil, rotor (breaker plate), plug wires, VOES, petcock, piping for petcock and VOES, Pingel adapter kit.

I figured out around my shop to get the wiring harness and the ECU out of a carbureted bike for the engine it plugs right in I've converted a lot of fuel injected bikes over to carburetor doing that you can also find wiring harnesses out there that are aftermarket to replace it you don't have to get diddly-squat from Harley they don't carry nothing no more

I have a 97 road king with a max system. Check valves are leaking and new O-rings did not fix the issue. If I switch over to a Delphi system, do they give you new check valves that work with their system?

My M M . Has a idle issue. I can adjust that . Looking to replace it hsr 42 mikuni

What do you think about the yost kits for cv carbs

Covert to a carb but forget about the factory wiring harness for carbs ! Buy a Thunderheader stand alone ignition pingel makes a plug & petcock adaptor get the carb of your choice & you in scrap all fuel injection wiring except the crank sensor the bike will run great !

Yes, if you haven't already. Please do a segment on converting old M. M. fuel injection to carburator, Thanks

please some one can let me know where to find the manifold & horn support w/ the choke holder to go form MM to carburetor ?