What is your trusted brand of oil that you prefer to use?

My dad was a harley mechanic. He was pretty picky about oil but even he would say the best type of oil to put in your bike was....new and clean...

Harley owner's manual even mentions subbing diesel oil! I use Rotella T4 in all 3 holes in my 1200 Sportster.

I just use HD Syn-3 and HD gear oil for primary and transmission. This has served me well in all of my bikes. I ride across country a lot, and all I need to do when changing oil on long trips is to stop by any HD dealer and Syn-3 will always be on the shelf. I usually dump oil at 3K miles, so not worried about 5 or 10K oil changes. Living in Florida, I ride 12 months out of the year and daily ride on my bikes, including very hot summers. No issues with HD products. Thanks, and ride safe.

Use Amsoil, proper oil for each hole,when I order for an upcoming oil change, I get an extra quart, always have 2 spares on the shelf.

I've used several different quality oils and have never had a problem.

I use Harley 20W 50 regular oil. It makes the motor quieter than synthetic. Also if I am on a trip and need oil I can use 15W 40 diesel oil, available everywhere. I don't overthink it anymore.

I have a 2020 Heritage 114 ..I usually use harley oil hd360 .a while back I found Mobil syn oil. After I changed it I immediately noticed increased engine sounds. When hot it sounded like it was grinding gravel..HD 360 works great for me.

I miss the old sagging shelf in the back ground

I use the Amsoil.

I did some work on my primary and filled it up with John Deere hygaurd oil because that’s what I had on hand. Very pleased with the clutch feel and looks good after 5000miles!

You probably won't agree with me, but I but the Walmart brand auto oil. Doing it for many many years. I change my oil average 2500 miles never had a problem. I have 2 Evos. Good video. Stay safe.

I asked the tech at my local dealer. His advice was Amsoil blended for each hole. I change it myself. I've used Amsoil for decades in my 4-wheel vehicles. The advantage of H-D 3-hole is you only need one extra quart in the garage to top off fluids.

I found HD oil to be good and slimmey. Thing with oil is the pressure and compression stability. 15 40 diesel oil is one of the best oils for that purpose. It is designed to withstand the rigorous compression and mass pressure that the fuel pumps demand for atomizing the fuel and the cylinder pressure that diesel rely on for running at all. I wouldn't hesitate using that oil in anything I wanted to protect.

I use soybean oil mixed with Crisco. The blend is on point, and my Harley has wings. Awesome juice!

Harley Davidson does not make oil! Harley Davidson does not make plastic bottles for oil either. Harley does however contract a company to make a plastic bottle and add their name and logo to it. It's called, Badge Engineering. Also; spark plugs, leather jackets, crash helmets, boots, ashtrays, ball caps, etc. Get conned if you like, but the standards like Mobil, Pennzoil, Castrol, et al, make great products. (If you preferred HD spark plugs, thank Champion). HD plugs were *identical* - but a few dollars more each and sporting a, "Harley Davidson spark plug number". HD does not buy high end engine oil or synthetic oils like we do either. They buy it in bulk, rebottle it, and sell it as theirs, but at a vast profit stating it is necessary to honor their warranty! Harleys ripoffs are being exposed continually. This oil scam is a good example. This video is spot on, honest and opens up options to consider. However, Newbies can always be swayed by the lies Harley peddle during a sale, due to their lack of experience and the excitement cleverly generated, as HD will finance everything you purchased, "Harley" (but Made In China) that adorns your new "biker" body. Congratulations! You just bought yourself a life! (You really should have demanded your Beacon Score and what percentage they charged you. If a Fiction Fan, you should be imressed at their gall). I worked for two HD dealers and saw the monumental ripoffs occur and the jubilation high fives that followed, immediately following the customer's departure from the parking lot. You could learn a lot from this video; far more in fact, than from a Harley dealer. However, if a "Credit Card Biker" ignore it, as it would likely fall on deaf ears, or sail right over your head. And there are many.

I'm not stuck on a particular brand as long as it's a quality product with the right specs. I do prefer synthetic over standard oil. I just changed all of my oils last week. I used amsoil in the engine, amsoil gear oil in the tranny, and H-D primary oil. It costs more to change the oil in my bike than in my pickup. Something just doesn't seem right about that.

i just change my oil often and use a good oil like you mentioned. people make to much of this. just change it often.

Amsoil always!!!

I just bought the 2022 Harley Davidson Nightster and I use Motul 7100 full synthetic oil. It is Harley approved and the Harley mechanic fully endorsed this oil. I used it in my Ducati Monster and I loved it and so does my Nightster.

Amsoil is far superior for all three holes and is easier on the pocket! I went from all Harley fluids to Amsoil and my trans shifts better without the loud noise

99 Twin Cam with the carb. First 5,000 miles used HD (They didn't have synthetic then and were against it). I changed to Amsoil and rode the 55 miles to work. I had to lower the idle, it made that much difference. You will never notice it on a computer controlled bike.

Been using Amsoil for 20 years or so. Have had good luck with Bel-Ray,Drag Specialties, and Red Line. Back in the day some guys used Aeroshell airplane oil. Your Project Farm reference caused a bit of Budweiser to go flying lol. Subscribed to his channel about a year ago. He has good content.

Mobile One in the crankcase, Redline Shockproof in the tranny & after about 120K between a 2009 Road King, 2014 Street Glide & now a 2015 Ultra Limited, and trying different stuff, I've found Formula + works the best in the primary.

I used Mobil 1 for Engine and Primary, Royal purple in the Trans and it has been a very good cheaper combo readily available around the corner at the autozone or oreillys. I’m a big fan of Amsoil and redline and the combo of Mobil 1 and RP works excellent for me. Smooth shifts and runs great for my Dyna.

My experience with oils in my Harleys have been that the conventional oils from Harley for the transmission and primary resulted and smoother quieter shifting. And I liked Amsoil in the motor.

I use Amsoil. I maintain my bike as if I’m going to keep it forever, so I always use the best stuff. I love Amsoil, it’s just amazing, and nothing beats it. Conventional oils struggle trying to maintain some kind of viscosity where synthetic maintains its viscosity.

Great info. I always appreciate your videos. Thanks.

I have used Valvoline 20/50 racing oil for over 20+ years it has zinc in it and also has an anti foaming agent with no problems at all and that's in two Harley's I use belray big twin in the gear box she's going to be 30 years old soon and no major repairs still running great

I use the HD stuff and do my own maintenance for the most part. Part of the reason is that all my friends use the regular stuff we all standardize everything we all use. You never know what you’ll need, when you need it, and who has what?

An oil debate, good grief the can of worms is officially opened.

I changed my Sportster and Electra glide to Amsoil V twin 20-50 and I would swear they both run cooler. Not near as much heat on my Legs. even on 100 degree days. It costs more but not as much as an engine would. Thank you for your info posts sir.

Shell Rotella T6 synthetic, for my VX (water cooled V-twin, not a Harley), but still similar issues, mostly to avoid hammering the bearings, so diesel oil additive package seems appropriate. Less expensive so more frequent oil changes don't hurt so much.

Back in the 70s-80s H-D 20-50 was the controversial oil. Per H-D service engineer that oil was repackaged Cam II. I ran that in my shovel head and it worked well. The 60 wt was misunderstood. The designation went way back to early oil standards and is actually Grade 60. IIRC that made the oil a straight 50 wt as far as viscosity. Where we saw problem was when customers would add STP to their oil. The story was that it made the oil too slick and the roller bearings would slide rather than rolling. This would cause the hardening to wear through and the bearings to fail. Funny thing was that H-D began marketing a Teflon additive about that time. They later put out a service bulletin advising not to use that product.

I've used different oil's through the past year's...but the last 3 Harleys I've owned I've been using the Harley Screaming eagle oil and I've never been low on oil at the 5k service....its always still full when I check it before I service it, all good points brother💯👊🏽😎

I've used Amsoil in everything I own for over 20 years. That includes my Harleys, Kenworths, personal vehicles and Super Pro race cars up to 1100 hp. You just can't beat a true PAO synthetic.

'94 883 Sportster Hugger Use non-synthetic Valvoline VR-1 Racing 20-50 winter, 50 summer. Dig the channel, btw.

Super Tech Full Synthetic SAE 20W-50 V-Twin for years never a problem.. I'm not a oil snob nor do I have a Yeti sticker on my rear truck window.

I've used Royal Purple in my 8 second drag race cars for many years and now in my H-D's. If it stood up to red line shifts in those cars it'll handle anything our bikes have to give it.

A good video....that same old weekly question on forums and facebook pages with "whats the best oils" I've always used spectro in all 3 in my FXR's since the 90s as its readily available for me...also use the spectro fork oil as its all available as well...keep up the great vids

The national testing laboratories that test synthetic MC oils have….. 1-Amsoil 2-Mobile 1 HD is halfway down the list $30k for a motorcycle I put Amsoil in mine and notice the Bike runs cooler and quieter.

I have a 2008 Road Glide with a 102,000 miles. I change oil at 3500 miles. Always used Harleys regular oil. 102,000 miles later she runs like a top and uses no oil between changes. A buddy of mine has a 99 Electra Glide with a 140,000 miles. Same oil, changes his every 3000 miles, runs great and doesn’t use any.

I tore apart a 1993 flhs top end with 80,000 miles on it, my Freind used Harley conventional oil and the jugs and pistons were very clean, so it’s good oil base gaskets were leaking is the only we did it, he now has over a hundred thousand now, but most oils are good, we both have new road glides now, he runs off brand now but I still run Harley, thanks for the video

Been using mobil1 for years. Availability is nice as many auto parts stores carry it, as as Walmart.

This is something that had to be said. Great video Gixer!!! Personal preference and doing your own research. Ive never heard of the 15W40 Diesel oil though? May have to look into that for my old iron.

I didn't see Schaeffer's on your list , I have been running that in my 07 96ci it seems to be doing great👋😁

Another great video! Thanks Gixxerfoo!

I use Motul V-Twin Full -Synthetic 20W50 Engine Oil - 108061, and Motul V-Twin Motorcycle Full-Synthetic Gear & Chaincase Oil - 108063. I have never used H-D branded oil, and never will. I am actually not a fan of H-D, just the bikes they USED to make. Harleys are harder on their oil than almost any other bike. They run hot, and because of their long stroke unbalanced design, they really hammer their bearings. I don't mind a little engine noise. I like mechanical sounds. I do ALL the work on my own bikes. If for some reason I needed something done that I couldn't do, for whatever reason, I would go to an INDEPENDENT Harley shop. I haven't been to a H-D stealer dealer since 1995, when they tried to charge me DOUBLE MSRP for a base model Sportster.

I buy Motorcycle Warehouse oil for both bikes. My local independent stocks and uses it. I have been using mineral oil in my Sportster. Also using mineral oil in my Twin Cam since I had the Tomkins bearing fitted. The Sportster has the oil changed about every 2500 miles. Oils cheap compared to engines.

Schaeffers kit with Harley filter. Been working great. I keep an extra kit in stock at all times plus 2 extra quarts in case and 4 Harley filters since the local Harley dealership has been out of black filters.

My local auto parts store always has Lucas synthetic motorcycle 20-50 in stock. I live up north so it's never hot enough to use the heavy gear oil here so I use the 20-50 in all three holes.

I run amsoil in my 02 FLHTC after I upgraded to timing gears and S&S 509 gears. On my 2nd season, first season I cut my oil filter apart to look for shavings/metal grit, and good to go!

Amsoil or nothing for my Bike 😄😁

I been using Amsoil from the beginning and love it ,

In my 90 XL 883, I use Valvolene 20w-50 ( a little less $ then what I used to use HD). The primary, I use HD. I do not use synthetic. My son was told in an employee AutoZone class that the older seals, as in my 1990 were not compatible to the synthetic.

I run Brad penn (penngrade) in a lot of my stuff. All the crude oil comes from PA fields and it’s refined there as well. The only oil company that can claim 100% American from well to the store. It’s really great stuff as well, just pricey

Only H-D related channel i follow, i always appreciate your insights 👍

I am on the road a lot and in multiple states. I use Mobile 1 vtwin (all 3 holes) and K&N filters because most all auto parts place and wal-mart carries them. I do carry a quart in my saddle bag. Haha! I am on my 3rd oil change this year.

Syn3 in crankcase, BelRay in trans and primary. Been running this combination for many years.

I agree that all modern day oils are great but I use Amsoil in my Harley and GoldWing. I have noticed a difference. I always keep a kit for both bikes stocked in my garage. When it comes to the Harley, I use specific oils for each hole. The Wing only takes engine oil. The drive shaft (Final drive) takes another oil but only needs to be changed every 10k miles and takes 5 minutes to change.

I started using Amsoil at the 10,000 mile mark for my Wide Glide. It now has 88,000 miles and no problems. At 85,000 I learned I needed to check the cam tension shoes. I heard some went bad at 30,000. It had me worrried. It turns out the Amsoil is so good at lubricating, the shoes were still not worn out. I'm sure the extra money I spent on Amsoil saved me thousands in tear down costs.

I like Amsoil full synthetic. Vtwin. My dealership will charge $300 to do a 3 hole oil change. I change the oil myself and instead of every 5K miles, I do it every 3K miles. I like keeping my oil clean.

Thanks for the common sense. Just use the right weight, don't be an El-Cheapo and keep it changed. I run 20w50 in all three holes in my 2005.

I change my oil and filter every 1500 miles have done for over 35 years in my shovel and I’ll do the same for my twin cam have used different brands over the years never noticed much difference , the cleaner the oil the better in my way of thinking

Thankyou always for the good advice

Back when I rode and played with mainly Shovelheads, Panheads, and on back in time, I swore by HD oil. I still have an old orange 55gal drum (garage trash can) from HD 60wt oil that has the Sun Oil Co (Sunoco) Refinery, Phila, PA address on it. Now, my local Hd Stealerships do not even stock 50 or 60wt anymore. One says they can't even get it, one says they will order it by the case if I prepay but won't say when it will come in. I've gone to Amsoil as a friends auto service business carries/stocks it and I get the friends discount. They also have a 50wt synthetic for my old iron! I've been using Dextron II ATF in the primary for over 30+ yrs. Even since I learned to eliminate the old recirculating engine oil system used from '65~up. If ya look at the components in the primary case, they are very close to the components in many automatic transmissions. And many, more modern all-wd/4wd transfer cases use a 2 or 3 row roller chain and specify ATF! I also feel a cleaner release and smoother engagement of the clutch, regardless of friction plate material. Plus, it's cheaper than anything sold as a primary fluid so I can change it frequently and get that nasty clutch plate friction and metal particles out more often. I did stick with a conventional 75~90wt gear oil in the transmissions. And call me crazy, but I did notice a difference in Slick 50 gear oil. But that stuff is no longer sold. One shop owner I know that builds a lot of manual transmissions for all sorts of racing from dirt tracks to drags uses Z-max in all his builds.

I quit exclusively using HD oil 40 years ago when I bought a case at the dealership, and it contained 1 quart of Havoline oil.

Thanks for the oil recommendations video

I use Amsoil, a friend got 196000 miles @ 8000 per change on his before a rebuild. Use redline in the transmission for the anti shock properties. Amsoil primary in the primary.

I use Lucas Conventional in my sporty and Lucas Synthetic in my Dyna. I wouldn't use anything else. Just my thing! Use what ya happy with! I see Harley Drag Bikes using Lucas so its gotta be decent or they wouldn't use it!

Thank you Thank you! I was wondering about this subject.

Syn3 because it's so darn convenient and the dealers always have it available. There are so many quality oils on the market. Take your pick.

I’m using Spectro 25-60 (not a typo) Dino oil in the engine at the moment (‘05 Road King). The top end seems to be a bit quieter. Prior to that I have been using Amsoil synthetic for years.

For the engine itself - I agree. For the primary though, over many years I've tried everything possible, from synthetic Lucas ,all the way to mixing a basic gear oil with ATF. IMO, HD Formula+ gives the best "right" clutch feel.

Good video Gix. Oil is a tricky one. Lol Keep up the good work. And keep the shiny side up.

I run H-D lubes in my H-D, Polaris lubes in my Polaris sleds and Ski Doo lubes in my Ski Doo machines. My sense is that the product manufacturer has a high level, granular understanding of the lubrication requirements for each component in an assembly. When a manufacturer is sourcing a lubricant for their product I’d bet that the conversations regarding the properties of the lubricant are high level and very specific as well. A great example of changing lubrication requirements is the H-D Big Twin primary drive. For many years this assembly was sufficiently lubricated by an oil drip; so little, that an open dry clutch would operate in the housing. The 1984 wet clutch required an oil bath, but the dramatic change was the 1.35:1 primary drive ratio which accompanied the 6-speed transmission. The additional load generated by the 1.35 ratio would often destroy the compensating sprocket (crankshaft damper) used on the early 6-speed machines. This version of the comp sprocket was introduced in 1970 and had changed very little since then. A new comp sprocket was introduced in calendar 2009 and this component was advertised to have 700% more capacity to dampen “torsional vibration”. In 2009 I ran an ‘09 FLHX with a Jim’s 131, and the new Screamin’ Eagle comp sprocket. In 2013, after 45,000 miles, I swapped the original engine back in and sold the ‘09. The SE comp sprocket, with 45k, behind the 131, was in beautiful shape and was reinstalled with the original engine. During this time the forums were lit with examples of SE sprocket failures; one person with a Trike claimed multiple failures at just around 3,000 miles. Another good example of “not just any lubricant” is the Screamin’ Eagle 6-speed overdrive transmission. Transmissions with a 1:1 high gear are different than on overdrive trans in that the input and output shafts rotate at the same speed in high gear with a 1:1 transmission, but with an overdrive trans the input rotates slower than the output. Because the needle bearings which support the main drive gear in the overdrive transmission are rotating and generating friction in high gear, unlike in the 1:1 trans, maintaining adequate lubrication of these bearings is critical. Most any heavy, sticky red goo will get to the gear teeth, but what about everything else? What are the properties of a fluid capable of lubricating and cooling a needle bearing, operating under a high load, that is not directly lubricated? The oil lubricating the outer needle bearing of the Main Drive Gear (MDG) must first pass through the the inner needle bearing in order to lubricate the outer. When the outer needle bearing fails, the load generated from the rear drive belt causes a misalignment of the MDG, placing an uneven load on the MDG teeth as well as the teeth of the countershaft drive gear; at this point a catastrophic failure is just a matter of time. In circumstances like these the lubricant must take care of the whole package, whether it’s a transmission, engine, primary drive or what have you.

I'm with you on Amsoil!

Schaeffer's products in all 3...absolutely a night and day difference over Syn3...quieted top end, very smooth shifting and according to my temp gun it's running about 15⁰ cooler than prior to the switch....2000 Deuce w a built TC88B

I’ve used mobile 1 motorcycle oil “it’s the shit“ smooth shifting in all my bikes including my Sportster shifts like butter.

I use Lucas synthetic it always on the shelf at all my local auto parts dealer. I ride alot and will change my oil at least 3times during spring and summer. Budget wise I go Lucas or Castrol conventional oil but change at 3000 miles. Lucas synthetic gear oil is always available also.

Just my story on using car oil in a bike ,had a 1100 cc bike that I drag raced every weekend and after a run just happened to look down at sight glass it was completely filled with foamed Castrol 20-50 oil I was using, switch it out with Kendall 20-50 car oil that I got a hold of and had no foam issues but then just went with a cycle oil to be safe.

I used Gastrol 20 50 for vtwin engines that is recommended by HD. Seems ok to use.

75w90 synthetic gear oil in the trans , 10w40 motorcycle engine oil (designed for wet clutchs) in the primary and mobil 1 15w50 oil in the engine. I've also tried ATF Dextron 3 in the primary , but i feel its a little too thin and noisier. I never tried the old ford type f but that did make auto trans clutches bite harder than dextron i remember years ago going to harley dealer to buy engine parts and the counter guy told me he was an A+P aircraft mechanic and i shouldn't use synthetic oil because it made the bearing rollers slide instead of roll , of course i just ignored him thinking thats probably why he was working the parts counter!!! Bottom line is like the video states use what ever you like !!!

Hello, I'm watching your channel for long time now, love your delivery of information, I'm new to big Harley bikes, just bought week ago 2017 107 low rider, what would you recommend for oils 🛢 in European Market. Thank you in advance.

I always used Syn3, formula primary and Bel-Ray trans in my ‘new’ bike, 14 fat Bob, because it was recommended from new by the dealer. Didn’t want any friction if there was an engine issue. This year I switched to Amsoil for all 3. No issues but I didn’t have any issues before so it’s all good. My 79 ironhead was bitchy about what I fed it. Noisy with HD 60 or any other 60 except Spectro. She loves that. Primary/trans would give me fits with all the fluids made for that. Hard shifting, noisy, slipping (or grabbing) clutch). Then I tried Spectro 80w for dirt bikes with shared primary and tranny and she loves it. My point: if she doesn’t care what you feed her and there’s no wear and she doesn’t use oil, use what you have. If she’s temperamental like my ironhead, feed her what she likes.

OK here's my take about 8 years ago there was an independent oil test for motorcycles. It listed amsoil number 1 mobil 1 was number 2 syntec came in down the list at number 7 ! I use mobile 1 or amsoil . I have switched customer bikes with 5 speeds to mobil 1 20/50 & the customer wants to know what I did to the trans cause it shifts better. Then it ever has ! On Harley 6 speeds I only use amsoil severe gear 75/140 which has the same viscosity as 20/50 in order to keep from having to rebuild those 6 speeds ! On my personal bike the engine is slightly noiser with mobil 1 then it is with amsoil ! But I do feel like if you use number 1 or number 2 rated oil you are running the best ! So there you have it from 30+ years of working on Harleys !

My local Harley dealers have been selling Amsoil at their dealerships for some time now. It made a world if difference in my 08 Fatboy. Shifting is smoother and she euns cooler. Using it in my newly aquired 13 Road King CVO now.

Gave Motul 100% synthetic primary oil a try. My shifting became very stiff, and mechanical/ audible. Didn’t like it. Went back to Amsoil, and the shifting went back to quiet and smooth. Kept the transmission Motul . That worked out nice. I’ll run it another 3K miles and go Amsoil on that to.

I just happen to use Lucas 20-50 full synthetic on the Dyna and street glide. I use reusable oil filters on both. Most oils that meet the required specs should suffice. If one wants to waste their money buying royal purple or Amsoil so be it. Paying extra for those oils may not preform any better than the lesser priced oils. That’s my opinion.

I run 20-50 synthetic in 3 holes every 5,000 miles on my 2012 and 2016. Amsoil or Screamin Eagle it don't matter. I run 20-50 conventional oils on my 1986 every 3,000 miles with primary fluid and trans fluid accordingly. The 86 has around 120,000 miles on her, and still runs strong!

I change my fluids too often because I'm a sicko. I even do brake fluid every year regardless of mileage 🤪 I use synthetic even though it's unnecessary since I ride gentle and not in extreme heat.

My 02 RK was brought new then, I still have it and ride it 97,000mil. Always used mobile 1 syn extended oil 15-50. they stoped making extended 15-50 it had more zink,moly detergents, and compounds than reg mobile 1. so I use 15-50 reg syn with a bottle of stp to make up the difference. in cold weather I don't use stp it raises the viscosity to about 25-60. but in hot weather it works well. changed my chain drive cams at 45,000mil to fuling gear drive package, the old chain cam shoes had about 75% wear. I attribute that to mobile and stp. in wally world both oil and stp cost me $26 I have a reuseable filter so no cost there. mobile 1 20-50 mc oil is $10 a qt.that's $40 just for oil,I just can't see the extra $$$ because it says motorcycle oil. I've used rotella T6 15-40 syn diesel and stp to bring up the viscoty, works as good if not better. and is cheaper $$$ per oil change.

For the record, Shell Rotella T4 15W-40 Diesel Engine Oil meets the JASO MA/MA2 lubricating specs of the HD M8 motor.

I have been using Amsoil for 27 years in my 1991 Strugis.

One of the most "hot-button" subjects you ever bring up!

Mobil one V Twin synthetic when available, but used Walmart V-Twin synthetic when it wasn’t.

Did my first oil change and just ran the Harley brand and filter for now .

I run quality hash oil when traveling abroad. Never a problem.

Amsoil in all holes love your work cheers🇦🇺🍻

Do you think it’s a good idea to add Lucas oil stabilizer to the engine during the summer to help with thermo breakdown