Here's some information I hope helps someone out there. Bought my current 2008 Silverado new and now has 198K miles. This video was quite helpful but there was a couple of things I learned from today's repair. First buy a quality heater core hose removal tool. I purchased the Lisle model number 39190-its a quality metal tool (compared to others that are readily available). The cheap plastic one I bought broke early in the replacement process was no bueno. Secondly, I removed the right side hose first as this allowed better access to the hose on the left (the leaking one). GM installed the left heater core line (as i'm looking at the firewall) at a slight angle, making hard to get the tool behind the hose to release it. Also on the left side I removed a small amount of the firewall insulation to facilitate even more room for the tool slip behind the coupling. Third, and probably most important, I was having problems getting the tool to engage the slots of the hose coupling as all those miles had seemed to freeze the hose to the heater core line. After getting the tool as firmly into place and aligned into the slots of the hose, I used a long piece of clothes line rope crossed over one another and pulled tightly until the tool was engaged in the hose slot. But the fun :( didnt end there! That sucker still didnt want to come off but with firm tug it finally gave up. Lastly, I've seen on some of these videos where only the defective hose was replaced or the hose is cut and a new coupling end is attached. This makes no sense to me but understand money is always a factor. If you can afford to do so replace both hoses since they were likely installed at the same time. While the new coupling is a great idea I feel you're only fixing half the problem-- in my opinion. Anyways once the hoses were disengaged the process went fast and 45 minutes later and some anti-freeze-I had two new heater core lines installed. Sorry to rant but never comment on anything and thought this MIGHT help some.

Best video on this repair so far! Thanks!

Couldn't have been a better instruction video than this. Man, thank you so much!

Thanks for a great instructional video. Just a note that oil based products will eat rubber over time (O rings and hoses). A better choice would be silicone spray.

Awesome video I Like you no B/S approach I'm taking on this project tomorrow on a 2002 GMC sierra 1500 4.3 vortec V6 she has 403000 miles and wasn't taken care of keep cranking out the videos you rock peace and much respect Jason 👍

Finally, after searching for a Video that shows what your Video is showing, I can finally see how to remove what I need to be removed. Good Video.

Thanks! Finally showed how the quick connect release, I had no clue from any other video for a heater core flush.

Great How-To video.....thanks for sharing. Very informative. I'm in the midst of replacing the original radiator on my 2013 Tahoe and while I'm in it this deep, I want to replace all original factory heater hoses and these pesky plastic T-connectors as well.

Thank you sir! I was stuck after I reconnected in the wrong order, left the aluminum tube for last and no dice, then I couldn't get the rear firewall connector to release with any of the quick connect tools I had (the old part just disintegrated when I pulled on it). Your video was the trick, squeeze, push, pull. Thanks again!

..... what voodoo ritual did you do to get those blasted quick connects to give up so easily?

Thanks for the video. Was working on #8 spark plug and somehow broke the heater connector clean off while moving the hoses out of the way. Must have been disintegrated. Glad I wasn’t out and about when it failed. It was a bit to get the t connector off but way easier than that #8 spark plug boot.

A few tips here: 1. Replace the hoses with generic ones from the auto parts store, add an inch or 2 extra. I found that there isn't really enough hose length to allow the torque of the engine to not put unnecessary strain on the hoses at the heater core because they're slightly too short! 2. Cut those damn quick connectors off the hose end at the heater core (where the hose connects to the T fitting). It's one failure point you can eliminate. On mine, I was driving and the plastic quick connector broke off with half still in the hose and half still on the T fitting! Smoke everywhere and coolant sprayed all over the engine bay. You can see this has been done in this video (where there are hose clamps). I would HIGHLY recommend doing this same trick! 3. The quick connectors will likely not come off. Use a flat head screwdriver to "break" the thin plastic black pieces that hold the connector "jaws" and then pull it off, then you can replace it easier.

Excellent video. Very clear, complete.

Thanks for the parts links, Amazon should have them here before the week's end. Preventive maintenance issue to do now before there is a problem. Nicely done!

Makes it look simple thank you

Awesome run through. Thanks for taking the time

Great job! The video really helped me out. I'm headed outside to do the same thing now. BTW, I was pretty amazed you did this one handed. It looks like a tight space.

Man i was struggling i saw your video took me 5 min for both hoses!

Thanks for the upload. Tonight this video helped me do this. Thanks again

Thanks ,helped me tremendously

Thank you for the video, was very helpful !! Appreciate your time !!

Right on no bullshit honest and informative keep up the good work

Brilliant video - thx dude - got mine changed out with no probs

Thanks to this took me 2 seconds

Thanks for the visual instruction.👍

Really good video thank you so much 👍

I say just leave that clamp on there, seems much more reliable then that cheap plastic quick release connection. That's exactly how I fixed my 2008 Tahoe.

just get rid of those plastic connectors and use a T connector with metal clamps... Those plastic things are junk.

Great Video!!!

How safe is that grease mixing with antifreeze ??? Seems like it would cause something to gum up somewhere. I've never seen or heard of anyone doing that. I'm not knocking your way just curious if that has a reaction to antifreeze.

Will the grease get into the cooling system though?

Easy when you say it quick

very helpful 👍 that's my problem thanks

I found in comments thanks

guys on my 2012 tahoe all u have to do for the heater hose disconnect is wedge ur hand and endure like 30 seconds of pain push on the connector then yank the hell out of it, what i did with my friend to fix it

Hi there. Thanks for sharing your video. I’m about to tackle this project by myself. (Single mom with no help; however, I’m pretty handy. Changed my alternator all by myself!) Do you mind please telling me the difference between the white and black connector? Only one is leaking on my Tahoe. Do you recommend replacing both? Thanks!

The only thing I would do differently is not put any petroleum based lubricant pn anything ribber, or in my cooling system. But a little tub of plumbers silicone paste. Slide right on with no future damage.

nice work, you are good.

Good information thank you

thanks man

Thank you...very helpful.

So I put a quick connect on the heater hose with 2 holes (straight piece)should I have done the 3 hole hose connector?

My connecter nipple broke from the tip with the tip lodged in the hose, do you think it’s possible to just replace the nipple instead of the whole connecter?

Are those dorman?can you provide part numbers.thanks

Thank you very mich

I'm not blowing hot air so could this be the problem? Is there a test I can do to make sure that the quick connects are still good?

What is that blue tool u first used to remove the clamp off the hose ?

Thanks for the video! I have a 2002 gmc sierra with the 5.3. Mine doesn't have the metal lines running to it in that T connector. The rubber hoses just go straight into the firewall. The plastic piece that sticks out of the firewall is was snapped for me. Anyone else have the same setup and know what that part is? And if possible how to replace it?? Thanks for any info.

Upon a visual I noticed a leak on heater hose closest to engine, leaking a little and hitting exhaust manifold.

What is that port right above where you are working on them hoses? Is something supposed to be connected to that??

If I wanted to disable the rear heat completely (bc it has never worked and I never needed it where I live) will the engine side fit properly where I remove the T flitting from the heater core?

Somebody needs to come up with a metal replacement part for these

What's the name of that big hose connected to the coolant??

Are the connectors different sizes? I see one is black and the other is white. Thanks!

Does the black connector have o rings inside

What do you do if the new fitting leaks at the firewall

👍

MAkes the quick connect look way too simple.

are those metal lines attached to the ac? i'm just trying to figure out if i'm gonna have to evacuate my ac before i do this job, or does that have nothing to do with it

I have leak on the fire wall after all replacements

Mine doesnt have tabs or those silver aux lines. I have a 07 chevy avalanche

If water gets on the those wires from the firewall, can it mess them up?

What do you do if it still leaks

What if those plastic pieces break closest to dash 😅

Tell me please. what did you smear this connector? Thanks

Was it nessesary to drain the coolant?

Thanks man

You probably could've just used hose clamps instead of draining most of your coolant

I don't understand why he didn't remove the engine cover and air box

Ok

Definitely not squeezing & pulling out that easy

Die hard Chevy guy here. Absolutely amazing why GM would use plastic for the coolant hose connections. They just randomly fail snapping off loosing all of your coolant. HOW FUCKING CHEAP CAN THEY BE? Might as well buy a fucking toyota seem to be built a little better. I own a 2013 Suburban and 2017 Yukon XL and 2015 GMC Savanna

Do yourself a favor and do away with these quick release fittings altogether. There is no benefit to having them on your vehicle, they will only wear out later. Install standard T's and or clamp hoses directly without quick release fittings.

Using a petroleum base spray on rubber hosees is the worst thing you could do....in time the oil is going to swell up the hose that will lead to catastrophic failures.....stop giving out wrong information

Why the fuck do they do this to us i cna think of 50 better ways to connect these lines wtf gm

What was the part number to the connectors black and white one?