I enjoyed this lad, anything "hand planes" is always good 🤙 I tend to stay away from super hard irons, most of my planes are old Records, a quick lick on the stones and I'm back to work..... that powdered metal stuff takes an age to sharpen. Your rebate planes/dado planes are called shoulder planes. A rebate plane or a dado plane is always bevel down, they create the rebate or dado (medium to rank cuts) a rebate plane has no nicker/spur and is used with the grain, a fillister plane has a single nicker/spur on the inside and has a skewed iron for making rebates across the grain, a dado plane has nickers/spurs on both sides and is also skewed for workin across the grain. A shoulder plane is always bevel up and is used to refine joinery (light cuts) it was designed to trim the shoulders of tenons if you saw away from your line. They're bevel up because that's better for end grain and a shoulder is an end grain cut 😁 I use all hand tools, so I'd use a rebate plane to sink the rebate, and a shoulder plane comes along to true it up; often it's best to stop short of your line with a rebate plane, it's easy to cut an uneven floor or to slightly slope it, so the shoulder plane does a good job of fixing that and bringing the rebate to your line. I always use a chisel to fix a shoulder, I find the shoulder plane awkward to use for that job, and I usually want a slight undercut on a shoulder so it sits tight. Theres a jig for the router iron, it's basically a strip of aluminium bar with a notch cut in one end and a hole, the cutting end of the iron screws into the hole and the aluminium bar can be held in a honing guide. If you have a strip of bar stock, any kind of metal will do, it would be easy to make one..... but they are only about a fiver to buy I think; I'm cheap so I'd be inclined to make one 🤷‍♂️😂 the router plane is a lot older than the 'lectric one, the old wooden ones were known as a "hags tooth", so your comment about it bein like a tooth is spot on 🤙🤣 the spokeshaves, its easier to learn how to use the flat one, the round one takes more control to use, so if ya fancy it, practice with the flat one first.... but it has to be sharp. Think of it like a smoothing plane for curves; you're not gonna be takin heavy cuts with it. The 151 version like you have with the depth adjustments are WAY easier to use than the other kind with no adjustment. Set it like you would a smoother, so its taking no cut, then slowly advance the iron til it takes a light even cut on both sides, if its cutting on one side and not the other set the other side deeper; but this can cant the iron an make the original side that was cutting fine need to be adjusted slightly again. Make sure to always advance the iron, if the screws ain't backing up the iron it can slip backwards. If you have to retract the iron, once the lever cap is tight again, tighten the screws to be tight in their slot and pushing on the iron. I find it easier to pull than push, but itll work both ways, always cut "downhill", sometimes it's hard to see the grain, but a shave will protest straight away if its goin the wrong way so it's easy to know when it wants to go the other way. I will say a newer shave works better than the old ones, and I reckon its because of the thicker iron. I made a jig to hold these in a honing guide, a strip of wood (think mine was about 20mm thick and about 50mm wide) cut a kerf or 2 in the end grain of the block, wide enough so the spokeshave iron jams into it, figure out the projection for your honing guide to get the angle you want, and dado in a little strip on the underside of the block in the right place so it always sits against the front of your guide. The old Eclipse 36 style guide is a great jig, itll sharpen everything you have...... even cambered irons like your scrub. The wheel on that style jig is narrow for that reason, it can be rocked on the wheel for curved irons. My foreplane has about a 250mm radius and that style jig handles it no bother 🤙

I'm in the same boat! I started building my pmv11 collection few years back and my absolute favorite is the scrub plane, I use it to groove the edges on 8/4 timber before joining to knockdown the center a tad so the outer edges are always touching, I also use it to pre groove edges before squaring, it makes it so much easier to run the 5 and a half when you're just knocking down peaks. After waiting 2 years of back orders I finally received my full set of pmv11 bench and butt chisels... worth every penny. Thanks for the videos, love em!

Hi Ben, enjoyed listening you talk on hand planes. Great see your collection and to hear all the pros and cons and what they're all used for. Unfortunately I'm at the other end of the spectrum avoiding hand work and the slower pace of achieving that goal. Tony

thanks for this! i posted on a reddit about how i prefer the use of low angle planes and how i can use them, just got thrown back. I have a Quangsheng no62 and love it. Tried restoring some Stanleys and the geometry of the frog, chip breaker and bevel angle just did me in. Im a huge Veritas fan. Thanks again.

Another great video, I bought myself a couple of second hand planes for restoration, but not sure if i've got the patience or the spare time at the moment, so eying up an allrounder to get me started! Cheers

Wonderful explanation Ben. I got a block plane and a couple of No 4 shoukd have got the No 5 😁

oh matey, love the cut of your jib there, and agree with 99.9 of all you said there, 'cept I love my spoke shave, great for many things,and my go to is defo my block plane, fab vid thanks for posting. Keep 'em coming,have a good week.Cheers bud

Pallet wood that has been Heat Treated (for bugs and grubs and other nasties) is effectively Kiln Dried - but in a nasty ( to the wood) way .... but it is taken up to 150 degrees F and held for a period of time ( after construction I believe) - if you leave it in the shop for a bit it will EQ down to match the shop - I recently glued up a bunch to make leg, rail, stile blanks for shop bench, milled them down a bout ... oh.... 3 months ago now(?) they are still bang on where they came off the bench after the No 7. tidied them up. Love your choice and order of the planes - with the Block Plane you might futz about until you find the one that fits you well - I don't have any of the Veritas kit so I can't say to that, but each hand is different and the one that fits and is comfy is the one that will work best.

My favourite plane is my Veritas DX60 low angle block - comes out in all projects for smoothing, planing end grain, shooting board. It's always on the bench. My other go-to planes are the Vertias bevel down jack plane which finishes the work of my Luban bevel up low angle Jack (absolute workhorse). Veritas bullnose is brilliant for rebates and shoulders but the front bit can be annoying. Next plane will be the router - only so much you can do with the small router plane and chisels. Love the PMV11 planes - just no nonsense set-up and sweet to use and leave an a-class finish. They are pricey here in Australia and during COVID-19 became like hen's teeth.

Loving your straight shooting style Keep them coming

Iv got a few Veritas and Lie Neilsen planes and chisels and there defenetly great bits of kit but they don't come close the early 1900s quality of Spiers , Mathieson , Clifton , Norris or Holland planes in my humble opinion but ever man is different and theres a plane for every man . Pointless Joiner fact # 1. In Scotland a no78 rebate plane is called a Skewed Geelum Great video Ben. Keep rubbing that wood

Veritas has a jig to sharpen the router plane blades that's supposed to come with it. They sell it for 5 bucks. I have 2 old routers and I hate sharpening them

Well seems like getting the low angle Block and Jack I've started well. No idea what steel is in them though. (Googles - M2 High Speed Steel (HSS) apparently, also thicker than normal). Dropped the bloody block plane today, and nearly cried. Little divot in the corner and blade chipped, needs a full regrind :(

I don't get our Yankee planes either. Had a friend that used and mastered them. Had a stroke before he taught me the tricks. Kiln dried black walnut has inferior color to air dried. That's all I know about that. Will be keeping a close eye on estate sales for Veritas. I'm a poor Yank.

Hi Ben I have a question please. What bench vise would you recommend? The one you're using looks fine. I don't need a moxon vise or anything fancy like that. Just one for planing end grain and cutting joints. Many thanks.

Nice vid Ben. I am looking at buying a No.5. Not considered a low angle plane but you have given me food for thought.

Another great vid Ben. I've been growing my collection of Veritas planes as well; pretty much the same order you suggested here. I have the router plane and it came with a sharpening jig to attach the blade to. You can pick it up at axminster for under a fiver. It can then be sharpened using the mk2 honing guide. Shoulder plane is next on my list 🤤 For content ideas: I have two old stump off cuts from a silver birch. Stuck for ideas on what to do. Epoxy filled side table, join together for coffee table, bit big for wall clock (I watched you vid for that one). If you have some stump offcuts I'd be interested what creative ideas you come up with. Might be suitable content.

Great video Ben. It is disappointing how expensive hand planes are these days!

Great review and informative. I was getting ready to restore a bunch of old Record planes but after this I think I'll just buy Veritas low angle planes.

Hi Ben, great telling and great content. Thank you. Keep on rolling in this way. Greetings from Germany

In your last last video you gave us a Very Specific Anatomical Protuberance to practice our grip for using a Cross-Cut-Saw. What would you recommend for practicing a Hand-Plane grip?? Also, practice for a Japanese Pull-Saw ....

Today's handplane price's are nowt more than disgusting, the money these companies must be making, at least Dick Turpin used a mask 😷 when robbing you.

Just bought a vintage (1950s rosewood handles) Stanley 4.5 boxed in total mint condition. As new condition, absolute bargain on eBay. Look like it just left the shop. Have a Stanley block plane which I have fettled but it is still shit. Looking for a jack plane and rabbet plane to complete the collection (for now)

Once again loved the video, agree with your choices. I do love the Veritas planes, not the blades. Thanks once again.

I love the Veritas planes, best value for the money! No. 5 Jack plane is the best!! All mine are PMV 11 too.

nice collection.

Fuck you've got some serious kit. Really appreciate your thoughts on hand planes, I have alot of really old timber planes and old Stanley and Mem Pacific's. The only new plane that I have is a cheap Stanley block plane the same as yours. I really like it for what it is, it's just a handy little thing to have on hand. I am going to be buying new planes over the next year unless Stihl decide to drop a new range topper chainsaw on the market again (the 500i set me back 2 years on tool purchasing)

Gostei da referência a nascido para matar!

I'm going to stop watching your video's.... 😀 a bit like the Domino one... wish I had seen this first... Just getting into hand planes, as wanted the finishing capability I cannot get with the power tools. Also recently needed one to fix something that I cocked up.... went for Old Stanley ones... Block plane, No.5 and a No. 7 but wish I'd researched more about the low angel.... to be honest didn't really understand why you go low angel v normal but agree the set on the normal ones are a challenge.. great video, learnt a lot... keep them coming...

Well I am going to go against everything I have just seen in this video. I have used old Stanley’s or Records for over 40 years and never had a problem with any of them. I even bought a thicker blade for my no4 and no7 and found not a bit of benefit, just longer to get them sharp. I purchased a low angle jack plane to see what the fuss was about, again nothing that I could not do with my old Stanley’s. Whilst I acknowledge that veritas and Leigh Nielsen’s are very well made, what a complete waste of money, in my opinion of course. If it makes you happy then go and buy them but remember low angles sit around 11-12 degrees plus when you add in your 30 degree honing angle you are at around 42 degrees only 3 off what a normal bench plane sits at. Just to point out I am not a weekender and have made fine furniture commercially all my all my life. I guess you pays your money and take your choice.

That lot at 6:40 is £1500 from a well known carpet maker's shop! Blimey. I bet you are glad you're not buying them today. I've never used a low-angle plane of any kind. My wallet is whimpering at the prospect of me trying one now ... Great video as always.

They really are so blooming expensive

That's fine an and all except low angle bevel up planes are literally useless marketing gimmicks, no joke, literally useless. What does useless mean? It means it has no actual use and will do a worse job on every single application imaginable compared to a bevel down plane with various bed angles. This is not a debate, it's facts.