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LA veritas block is my favorite, most used, hand plane.

Shape of cap has a hand hold too.

Thanks, mine came from Lee Valley.

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Ya, high angles are great for figured wood.

Thanks, though I think from your description you might be interested in a Japanesse style woodworking bench. :)

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Oscar worthy I'd say.

Alrighty then! I can already see the red carpet and a little golden figure in your future. Wow! lol.

Yes. Really good work. Quite creative.

wortheffort - Absolutely!

You'll like it.

@@wortheffort where did you get the screwdriver. I've been looking for that thing for quite a while

driver from lee valley.

Bevel Up? If the bed is at about 45 degrees then try them bevel down. It'll be much easier to push as bevel up would turn it almost into a scraper. I haven't seen any bevel up woodies before. Doesn't mean they aren't out there though.

@@wortheffort Oops... I meant bevel down...

more common

Look into a miter plane if you want a dedicated shooter.

@@wortheffort thanks for the suggestion Shawn. Just had a quick look on ebay and they start at £200 going up to thousands... Would a rebate plane work well maybe? I have a couple of wooden skewed blade ones?

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ya, norris always feel finicky to me.

See my “planes are stupid” video.

@@wortheffort Very nice video. I appreciated the content really! Didn` t find an answer yet though... Best regards!

Sideways pressure on drill bit sounds dangerous to me.

If it were a drill bit and the pressure was high, it would be dangerous. The pressure on the small (2” diameter) stone is very light. Try to take only .001” per pass. If the pressures were higher I would use the mill which is made specifically for side pressure. The plane body is acting like a fixture to hold the blade vertical and to allow the very slight feed rates. Some machinists will sharpen a plane blade on a surface grinder. Can get them razor sharp but most do not do the hollow grind. I do not have a surface grinder so drill press was my attempt to get similar results. The blade with the hollow grind cuts extremely well.

I would recommend a pawn shop slow speed grinder as cheaper more versatile option. Besides, grinder is only for shape. You still need to hone.

Honing is not really necessary. I almost always hone tools for cutting metal, but seldom hone wood cutters. I do remove the burr, but want the very small teeth that grinding leaves to “saw” the wood. With a hand held blade AKA pocket knife I noticed years ago that a blade sharpened to a razor edge and stropped did not cut wood as well as if the sharpening concluded with the hard Arkansas stone. Barbers who years ago would sharpen a straight razor themselves purposely put the teeth on the blade. Know this for a fact because I read it in a text book for barbers. They do strop but the stone work is done with a eye to forming the teeth. Besides I am primarily a machinist. We approach things differently than woodworkers. Neither side is more right than the other just different because the materials are so different. Enjoy your channel.

Ok I'm leaving your comments because it's a different approach and you are very polite and seem to be talking from experience. But I need to say this sounds needlessly dangerous to me, doesn't add anything to the safer less expensive sharpening methods traditionally used and the idea of not honing in my opinion makes a tool more dangerous as you will then need to force it through wood increasing the likelihood of accidents. Every spoon carver I've ever researched who depends upon knives hone almost constantly to keep the keenest of edge. Any kind of inconsistent "tooth" or serration is actively eliminated. Sharper is safer and results in an edge that lasts longer and provides better results. Something proven through generations. Even in your barber analogy, the moment they honed on the strop all stone evidence and "teeth" are erased. Honing is honing. Stones/abrasives create the shape, honing creates the edge. I shape my edges on a 36 grit wheel, sharpen on 1000-4000, hone at 12,000+. It's how it's been done for millennia.

keep your eyes out for a Stanley 61 I think. Pop up occasionally and nobody is really searching for them. Also most block planes are bevel up.

That wasn't my twin. I do have an alter ego.... :)

History is important and.... the wood don't care.

lee valley

sharpen and go is the trick

agreed

it's true.

Oh I have also heard from someone I dont remember, (it was on KZfaq) that you can flip the blade of a traditional plane and get a cheap high angle, I've not tried it but it sounds like it may work.....

It'd be at 75* or more then. Might be a bit too high. Might as well use a scraper then.

Coming up someday. Maybe soon, maybe later.

Myth, sharpen the thing. People have been using planes w/o chip breakers longer than with. Only came into fashion when mass produced blades became thin and then needed the tension mass added. Look for an earlier video I did on chip breakers and reference micro film from Japan.

​@@wortheffortIsn't that old scientific Japan video prooving that chipbreaker with steep angle located as closest to the edge as you can is the best option? And chipbreaker located far away from cutting edge (or no chipbreaker) will not help preventing tearouts? And about old planes without chibreaker - no one ever prooved that they could takle difficult grain (thats why they invented scrapers).

Michael Logutov dude, difficult, meaning figured, is a different animal and you know it. Throughout history most HT woodworkers know to use wood conducive to work or go high angle or scrape. You still don’t need chip breakers. History has proven that along wt the fact that earth is round. Stop cherry picking or state what you’re talking about in first place. P.s. remember me discussing the toothing blades for difficult wood and sections?

@@wortheffort well, I'm lost a bit here. On that old scientific video it was proven that chipbreaker helps. But you're saying, that BU planes somehow can overcome this. If you're talking about normal wood and plaining with the grain - that I agree, there is no need for chipbreaker. But if you have to go against the grain or tackle some interlocked grain - then I fail to see why would you choose BU plane over BD. Or you say that BU gets the same amount of tearout as BD while both been fine tune for smoothing and going against the grain?

Michael Logutov you’re just wanting to cherry pick when something doesn’t work. So I’ll clarify. 98% of time, on woods you use to make furniture, doesn’t matter. If you choose your wood poorly then a chip breaker “might” help but so would using a different angle even up to positive 90 degrees scraping. The what if, “the woods curly”, “the wood reverses”, “You have to go against grain”... there are a miriade of techniques including using a blade wt a perfectly set up chip breaker. Most people I work with would just start out with better wood as why waste your time and effort with difficult wood.

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