I think it’s well worth it! It’s 1 inch inlet and outlet! Thanks for the comment 👍🏽

Of course it shouldn't because pressurizing water raises its boiling AND freezing points. Which is why the boiling and freezing points of water are lower as elevation increases and atmospheric pressure decreases. That means the pump and any other plumbing pressurized to 23 psi by the pressure tank can freeze up at temps ABOVE 32 degreees F and nothing about those pumps is intended for outdoor use.

Those pumps are not intended for continous use or as "booster" or "transfer" pumps and will overheat if supplied with "room temperature" or warmer water. Meaning aboveground "rainwater catchment" systems with aboveground ambient air temps are not "safe" and "sustainable" and "survivable" applications for them.

Curious on the after the pump? Being that pressure build up is controlled by pump never put one on the other side feeding into the home. Does it work more efficiently that way?

@@dadwork9502 it seems to split up the responsibility of the valve . I get less chance of back feed and it holds pressure forever.

An old plumber told me to do it. Lol

Interesting 🧐 I’m going to be setting up a pair of totes together and run off another pump same model I will for sure do this trick 👍🏽 and will see the difference! Best tips come from the pros.... older ones newer ones don’t be giving um for free 😂 Please subscribe, luv the actual interaction and getting tips! What this channels all about, knowledge is power 👍🏽💪🏽

Good question, ur check valve holds certain pressure against it going back out depending on what you get and the pressure u desire. The flow in to my knowledge does not have to have pressure, but definitely needs like a gravity fed water solution. Don’t want to burn the pump up because it can’t get water fast enough.

Yes, depending upon how u have it rigged plumbing wise the tank will cut on and off from pressure setting. I left it at what it was programmed to push out around 40psi, it’s just a nut for adjustment, to cut on or off at higher or lower pressure!

Pressure tanks are not designed or intended for water "storage" and have zero capacity to do so and should never be "empty". Pressure tanks are "shock absorbers" for the water system to protect pumps and plumbing from "water hammer" and NO well pump is intended to pump "ground water" such as from a creek or pond. They also provide ambient pressure with the pump off to keep the check/foot valve seated and the seal sealed and the system primed. The "dissolved solids" and "silt" in surface water - which will pass through any all all "filters" OR will quickly plug them up so nothing passes and pumps "burn up" - will quickly damage and corrode/erode the carbon-ceramic pump seal and cause pump failure. Especially since the pump will begin "sucking air" long before it leaks water externally and will constantly lose prime after shutdown. They're also not designed for ANY outdoor use and because raising "water pressure" raises its FREEZING POINT those pumps and pressure tanks and any plumbing they're connected to can and will freeze up at temps well above "freezing". And since the "cutin" pressure is 30 psi and the pressure tank charge pressure is 23 psi, any time you "crack" a faucet to prevent freezing the pump is going to run "constantly" or often enough its service life will be significantly reduced and in real "freezing" temps a slight "trickle" will probably not prevent freezeup regardless. People with shallow/dug wells and/or cisterns in "cold climates" have "pump houses" for a reason. And pumps that do not "freeze up" until temps and windchills go dozens of degrees below "freezing" if at all. There is no such thing as a true "outdoor" water pump designed, engineered and constructed to be exposed to the elements 24-7-365 besides TRUE irrigation pumps and those have vertical motors, the pump itself is actually at the bottom of the well, are used in "warm weather" only, self-drain and self-prime and require constant "pressure lube" while in operation. A jet pump has a plastic impeller and "ejector" and will not "live" pumping "dirty" and/or "hot" water and the instructions explicitly say so. Buying a $169 Harbor Freight shallow well jet pump to "save money" and/or "conserve water/energy" in an "off the grid" DIY-"engineered" and "hybrid" residential water system and using it as a "transfer" and/or "booster" and/or "trash" pump is about as intelligent as trying to "save money" by using 2 or 3 "water supplies" with no well and/or rural water to "replace" one with a well and/or rural water. There's no such thing as a "good cheap pump" and "free water" - i.e. surface water, rainwater, etc.- is never a "replacement" for groundwater for "household use". Especially in a "hybrid" system where both or all are used alternately and the "distilled" and "pure" rainwater dissolves and breaks up/down all of the "hard water deposits" surface water and/or groundwater leave in pumps, plumbing, screens, filters and appliances and "flushes" and concentrates them into "hard to reach" areas where they really "deposit" permanently long-term. Using rainwater and/or surfacewater to "replace" groundwater is never "safe" and "sustainable" unless it is confined to entirely separate systems and that is never "cheaper" than using groundwater alone and real water/energy conservation methods and proper pumps, plumbing, etc.

Beauty about the pump if it freezes hopefully it’s gonna be a while till a Texas freeze 🥶 like this last one. I can go grab another and be at the cost off one pump from HD or Tractor Supply!!! I actually plan to build it all into a section of the house where there had been a room but the floor feel through. Hard to describe but like a screened in water porch. Long story but it’s gonna be super insulted before winter 👍🏽👍🏽💪🏽

Pumps like this do need to be protected from freezing temperatures, but 50 psi will not affect the freezing point in any noticeable way. From waters triple point to about 200 MPa (almost 2000 times atmospheric pressure) freezing temp is virtually the same. For reference, putting water under 1450 psi would only change the freezing point by around 1.35 Fahrenheit. Pressures affect on freezing and melting points is only important in high end engineering and lab environments.

Did you ever figure out what it was? Might be the capacitor?