Awesome, I think the more you shoot them, the better they get. Mine is one of the earlier ones, but I hear the newer ones have done a lot better without any issues. I shoot it all in mine too, but this ammo brought out the need to fine tune. Does great now.

You can shoot slugs out of these?

@@granthamilton9018 Yes Sir, I have shot a lot of slugs thru it, So far so good

Glad it helped. That's why I posted it.

That burr developed over time. It was not a factory defect. My gun just got to a point it was not letting me eject a round that wasn't even fired yet.

Agreed.

Thanks for the positive comment. I'm a bit surprised myself on that. I just ordered and bought the Camo version of the Hatfield SAS. It's called the Hatfield USA12C SAS. Going to be posting a video on that soon. Doing the shooting test this afternoon.

Yes that was #whoteewho. He is very skilled in shooting them, and he makes hi points look good as well.

My SAS 12ga has been a real turd. I've had numerous different issues with it and have been determined to get it functioning properly. I only use it with light loads for clays and dove hunting, so it's no use to me if it'll only cycle heavier loads. My only issue still remaining currently is failure to eject. Polished up the chamber quite a bit till my bore brush eventually broke. Still no luck yet.

They have applied changes along the way that has improved them since their introduction. Also, I have found 3" shells are of different lengths, and it seems to effect ejection. But like you, no issues with 2-3/4". Thanks for the update!

I went back and picked up the 28 gauge yesterday.

@@r.b.somers2052 28? Or 20? I have them both too. 12 and 20. Never had any issues with the 20. Well worth the money.

@@bgdesignandsolutions I now have the 12 and 28 gauge. The 28 gauge bolt gave me a hard time when I was disassembling, but it finally came out. I oiled it and took it to the range and put 50 rounds through it and only had a few hung rounds in the ejection port. I think it will be fine after I clean and oil it again.

@@r.b.somers2052 so are the Winchester rounds the main problem? Or is it a manufacturer issue?

Yep, and on others too that may have the same issue.

Some Winchester ammo are pure junk. I have had some that separate the head from the shell when fired. As for the sling hole, I drilled and tapped it for a swivel stud. Then later I just used a straight stud with threads. The swivel one kept coming loose. View at: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/i8qnasRlp7SolKc.html

There both good an bad things about them. Some mess up early on, while it seems others have no issues at all. As far as I know, they are only offered in a 28" barrel for hunting. May call and ask UTAS if they offer shorter barrels.

I drilled and tapped the cap. I first put a swivel sling holder on it, but it kept coming loose. Hard for aluminum to hold steel without it shaking loose. So I ended up putting a straight threaded holder on it, with a nut on the inside. The kind used on forearms. They come in an Uncle Mikes kit. Either one will work, but the swivel one had too short of a thread on the screw and kept working itself loose, so I gave up on it. The newer caps are not as thick on the end as this one was. I do not have a solution for them just yet. Have to do some more looking because I need one now for the new camo gun.

Cool thanks for the info, i’ve been meaning to do something for mine but i had no idea where to start, i like the threaded stud with a nut on the inside idea.

Just a quick question, with the swivel stud did you think of applying rockset or loctite?

@@djritm3215 I thought about it, but decided not to go that way. The swivel stud didn't have long enough threads. Aluminum and steel don't mix well in fine thread either. The stud needs to be more course to hold. So I opted to use a stud that went all the way through. It works. However, I do miss the swivel. May have to make a longer screw someday on the lathe.

Some of them will rock back and forth when installing the barrel back with the receiver. The rocking should go away when the retainer cap is tightened. As you tighten the cap, it should find it's "sweet spot" and stop rocking. Make sure it's as tight as you can get it by hand. No tools.

Gracias, espero haber ayudado.

On light loads the AA will work better than most. But your gun should cycle all the loads, light or heavy. Again, it may be a chamber issue.

Mine is a 12ga with 2 cylinders, 3inch required the heavy cylinder, not a problem and it does work,I did break it in with 2 boxes of target loads ,I also bought a 20 ga and it only has one gas cylinder and it works fine ,now did you use the switch on the trigger group ? You do have to hit the switch to get it to fire more than one rnd, if it's too tight and stockpiles sometimes a Dremel tool will do the same thing with machining as what the author of this video has portrayed .

@@scottlitz3199 This was not a firing issue, this was an unloading issue. The gun functions good, it just got to where when I went to unload it when I got back to my vehicle, the shells would jam and not allowing me to unload it, unless I bumped it against something or pulled seriously hard.

This was a good well informed video,I was one of the lucky ones with no problems, thank you for sharing your experience.

@@scottlitz3199 Thanks.

with the time involved to make something like that happen, it would likely be easier to find a gunsmith in your area and have him watch this video. More than likely he can do it faster than what it would take.

Didn't have that problem, but it could over time I suppose. I loaded a shell, and then it was stuck and wouldn't come back out unless I fired it. There was never a firing issue. Once fired it ejected fine.

@@bgdesignandsolutions OK thanks friend

@@bgdesignandsolutions Apparently what I was explaining happened to you, I did, with the help of your video, a job similar to yours, and now the shotgun works better. Thank you!

@@DonPato1911 Glad it helped. Should last a long time now. Mine is still doing fine, no problems.

@@bgdesignandsolutions thanks again

Do 2 things. 1. Make sure the ammo is 1200 fps or better, and 2, clean and oil it. And then make sure it is oiled. And did I mention oiling it? It's surprising how much a little oil can go on these guns. Usually, that's the cause. Clean the magazine tube, because the residue builds up. Oil that as well to allow it to slide. So when I say oil it, I mean from front ports to the receiver inside. Anything that moves. Like the old Rem 1100 that needed oiled, these do too. Let me know.

Glad it helps.

I can't believe I missed your question. The first versions of this gun used one piston for light loads and another for heavy. There was no gas valve. They also had a different fore end stock that kept breaking the 3 tabs that went into the receiver to secure it. They later came out with a metal ring and better way to hold it in place. Then they implemented the gas valve under the forearm to reduce pressures, and now use one piston for all. They also placed a fiberglass piece in the forearms like the old Remington 1100's had to help prevent stock splitting. The noticeable thing I see is a different wood. The first ones had some beautiful wood. Now it''s still good looking, but not quite like the first ones.

You're welcome. Thanks for watching.

No. The problem in this video is the shells were getting stuck when loaded and would not eject an unfired shell when I wanted to empty the chamber. First thing to do when you buy one is clean and oil them everywhere metal touches metal that moves. Oiling them usually takes care of any issues. The second thing, some of them need some break in time. Shoot a few rounds, and shoot some heavy loads too. The most important thing is ammo. Cheap Winchester ammo does not fair well in these guns. (and other guns too) Use 1-1/8 oz with at least 1200 fps, and you should be ok. Shoot some 3 inch in it as well and see if it works. If it fails to eject the heavy loads or 3 inch, I suggest you contact them before your first 30 days run out and see if you can send it in for a check up.

There is no fix for that except to bend the barrel. However,. there might a more simple solution, and that is to look and focus only at the bead when shooting. If doing that doesn't work, you might want to consider replacing the barrel or check the warranty for a free replacement. Only the first 30 days are covered like that, but more than likely they will not replace it. Sorry, wish I could help more.

I could be, but I don't have a failure to eject issue. I just had a very hard time unloading it. That's when I noticed the problem. The failure to eject is more likely another issue. It could be the extractor, or the barrel slot for it. It could even be the ammo, as the newer guns do not like really heavy loads and often stove pipe on them. If it's under warranty, you may want to talk to UTAS about it.

Sounds like you may need to send it in. The only thing that comes to mind would be the matchup between barrel and bolt assy. Assuming you can't open the bolt at all after it is closed. If you close the chamber slowly, does it still have a hard time opening? *Dry Firing:* Did you dry fire it and then put the safety on? If the bolt is closed, and the hammer has been fired, and the safety is on, it will not open but about half way. You have to take it off safety for it to open. I suppose it could be in the spring assy that goes down into the butt stock. Take the trigger assy out and push on the end of it to see if it hangs up. Off hand, I can't think of anything else.

@@bgdesignandsolutions I might pull the trigger assembly apart.. nothing to do with dry firing or anything of that sort I'm also unable to pull the charge handle out of the action making me think something internal is the issue .. I will most likely be using it as firewood 🤙🏻

@@donnytheboys7204 You have to remove the barrel to pull the charge handle. Once the barrel is removed, lift the front of the bolt up to the top of the receiver. this will create a gap between the bolt and the carriage. Then pull the charge handle out. There is a slot for it to go in and out. They are locked in place by design. The bolt holds it in place and the only way for it to come out is after the barrel is removed. A very good design, with no chance of loosing one.

@@donnytheboys7204 Can you make a #short on it and show me how it's not opening and what it's doing? If you do, send me the link.

@@bgdesignandsolutions will do

Check to see if you have it on safety. If the gun has been dry fired and then put on safety, you can't pull the bolt back. Take it off safety, and see if you can then. If not, you may want to send it in.

If it chambers all the way, you need to check some things out. First, check to make sure the bolt is closing all the way. If it is, then check the shell to see if it has a mark made by the firing pin. If it has a mark, then replace the firing pin. Some of the firing pins are cut too short, and the only solution is to replace it. Shells will chamber, but not fire. But there will be a small indent in the primer of the shell. I ran across this before myself. If the bolt is not closing all the way, then pull the barrel off and drop a shell in the chamber to see if it goes in all the way. If it doesn't, check how the rim of the shell fits like in this video and fix it if you feel capable.

Check it out, may be the same issue causing it.

Sounds like you're shooting a low velocity shell. These guns function best with 1200 fps or faster loads. See if that is the issue first. Another thing you might try, is getting some hot loads and shoot them to loosen up everything. It might be tight until it's broke in. Clean it good after that, and make sure you oil it properly. The lack of being oiled will also effect performance. Oil the piston, the slide, the bolt, everything that moves. If none of this works, you may have to send it in.

@@bgdesignandsolutions I cleaned her up and fired some of the more expensive shells through her and it shot like a charm, I don’t think the shells I was firing had enough power to cycle the next shot through. Thank you for the response and information!

@@Josh-nz2qb You're welcome, glad it helped.

Hard to explain in words, but take a look at the shell latch and see if it is rounded or more square on the end facing the the magazine tube. If it's rounded, bend the end a bit to square it off. If it is square, try bending the arm (shell latch) itself towards the center of the magazine tube, but not very much. It's thin metal and can easily be ruined. You should remove it first before working on it .

Are you hitting that button by front of trigger??

IF you push flap up then hit that chrome button it ejects all shells in magazine. I did it too.

I used a drill rod to control the amount of material taken off. Sand paper does not allow for discrete touch up in a tight areas. It could destroy where the shell sits.

Which one did you get? wood or synthetic? 12 or 20? Curious to see hear how it does for you. Update after you shoot it a few times.

@@bgdesignandsolutions I picked up the 12 gauge wood style. I gave it a good cleaning last night and lubed it then ran the bolt back and forth for white a few times. I should get it out this week and we will see.

Yes they do.

I took a 12" long 1/4" drill bit and cut the drill part off. Then i used the smooth shank and cut cutting edges just on the end. This way, in case of a slip, it would not damage the chamber.

File

Is the Safety on or off? Safety has to be off to pull the bolt back if it has been dry fired.

Take the barrel off and put an un-fired shell in and see if it sticks. Then look for where and hopefully the method i used will help.

I wish that was it, but it wasn't. Ejecting after being shot wasn't the issue. The issue was ejecting when it hadn't been shot. Like when you go to empty your gun before calling it day or going somewhere else. It was sticking, so I found the issue and fixed it. Hope this makes sense for you.

Yes. When you push the shells in, make sure you push past the shell stop. If it releases then, a slight bending of it will prevent this problem. You may have to take it out to bend it, but bend it only enough to stop the problem.

@@bgdesignandsolutions 10 4. I'll check that out. It does it sometimes when I try to unload it but has been known to do it when I'm not even touching it.

@Jose Ruiz Maybe you can explain to customer service what you saw here and have them check the chamber for proper size. No doubt, if they messed up on one, they messed up on others too.

Glad it helped.

Not every shell gets shot in a Shotgun. When you get back to your vehicle, you don't shoot out your magazines to unload it. You eject the shells one by one until it's empty. That's where the problem was. The shells were jamming in the chamber and would not extract. So I had to fix it.

Maybe, but there are those who will disagree with you. I have worked on a lot of guns, and Beretta and Benelli have been among them with the same issues as any other shotgun: failure to feed, failure to eject, double feed jamming, ribs popping off, bad extractor, etc. All depends on luck of the draw whether you get a good one or not.

I've had shotguns that range from 200 to $1,300 (20 years ago, which translates into 1,300 to $2,200 today for the same gun). I have never found a single shotgun that DID NOT have problems with them. Every gun maker has issues. Browning, Winchester, Weatherby, Remington, Benelli, Stoeger, Mossberg, and so forth. No gun is ever made perfect. These Hatfields have Sleeve designs in them from Browning/Winchester, and has a Stoeger style trigger assy, and it uses a typical CZ piston design. They offer a lot for $220. But like many others, it's a Learning curve until it's perfected. Mine shoots like a dream now, with no issues. I have a Browning Maxus, a Stoeger M3500, a Pointer semi auto and Pointer over under by Legacy Sports. A Remington super mag, Remington home defense, Remington 870, and 870 Sportsman 12. I have 3 Hatfields, and I would put them all up against each and every other shotgun I have, or had. That is why I defend them. By the way, the Maxus needed work. The Stoeger needed work. The Super Mag needed work. The Pointer O/U needed work. And the other 870's needed work to tune them. I've seen Benelli SB2, and SB3's fail constantly. They only cost around 1,600 to 2,000. So, do you want to pay 1,300 dollars for a Maxus or Benelli, and have it need work? Or would you rather pay 220 and only maybe have to fix it? The Pointer Phenoma is the only shotgun I have, or owned, that has not needed anything done to it. It shoots everything I put through it. The same was true with my old 870 Wingmaster I had for 27 years. Which BTW, I shoot junk ammo when I test a gun. If it fails on junk ammo, then it's not working properly, as a good shotgun will do as it is claimed, and should shoot anything you put through it. As for ammo cost. You have no Idea how much it costs to buy a gun, shoot it, buy different ammo, use different ranges, different chokes, and test it to it's max. The cost is far more than cheap box of shells, or a cheap shotgun. What I can't afford, is to do a shabby test on any gun I am testing, or trying to improve.

@@bgdesignandsolutions Boy thats the truth. Seems like some of the turkish shotguns are scaring Amercan companies. I bought 2 hatsan escorts black synthetic about 6 yrs ago. Its so much like a 1100.Now the price is going up. See those Hatfields? My walmart has a 28 ga for $226

@@bgdesignandsolutions Tell you one shotgun to avoid like the plague. Benelli montifeltro mines the 7.1lb but they even make a 6lb one. The recoil is %500 terrible. When it says inertia they shud let you fire 1 shell from it. Youd run outta of the store.

It is the fastest hardest shooting gun I ever used but its 3 yrs old Ive shot 24 shells!!!

And yes I installed the kickeez 111 recoil pad which helped. Buyers remorse to the 25th power