Thank you for your comment.

Thanks.

You will notice a difference in recoil. Perhaps I should make a video on how I cut the spring. I'll try to explain here: after cutting, I ground the spring end down to match what was cut off. The spring is tapered to the end of the coil, and bent in. This way it will sit flat when assembled. It still had an angle to it after cutting and grinding down to a taper, so about half way around the coil, I bent it towards the rest of the spring to ensure a flat side like it had before cutting. In the end, you want to make this end match the other. This way it will be a flat fit on both ends.

No I don't. I get asked that a lot, but I have never checked it out. Not sure what extension tube will work on it.

@@bgdesignandsolutions I appreciate the response, time to do more digging around! Thank you👊🏽

Beretta / benelli mobil fit it

No doubt, Winchester shells have issues with them from time to time. I have had them come apart when I shoot them in the Hatfield SAS, but not come apart in other shotguns I have. By come apart, I mean the plastic shell separates from the Brass and is left stuck in the chamber. I chock this up to the fast bolt on the Hatfield's, which opens up just before the pressure is out of the barrel and chamber. Keep in mind, they are made in Turkey, and there are other shotguns that use the same bolt style, so Hatfield is not alone. No other ammo but Winchester does this in the Hatfield SAS. But it sounds like the shell is not even trying to eject. This can be caused by over pressure, and most likely is. That will cause a shell to stick and the bolt will not function properly. It can still function, but closes back so fast you can't see it unless you stand off to the side and watch it, or video it and then watch it in slow-mo. The 3 1/2" Hatfield's are super fast on the bolts, even more so than the standard SAS. But you say other ammo functions and does fine? At this point, I'd say it's the ammo and not the gun. You may want to convey your situation on to Winchester and let them know. A recall may be at hand.

I don't know of any extension that would directly fit, or of one for another shotgun that would interchange. As for being gas, that shouldn't interfere. If you find one that matches the threads, it should work.

@@bgdesignandsolutions Thank you for the reply!

That's good. Others can read your comment and what you did may help them. Thanks.

You don't need a piston like I made for the 20ga. They are already longer and use as much as the gas as possible. just oil it up and see if it works for you. If not, maybe consider sending it in. (after season of course)

Since you say you are "running into" a problem," I will assume it worked fine before this issue came up. Clean an oil it really good. Should be fine then. Ammo, and/or making sure the action is well oiled is likely the problem. If you are shooting 3 inch, then double check the length after it's shot because if it's a full 3 inch, it won't cycle the next round. These guns will shoot the short 3 inch (European version) and not a full 3" American standard. Check if the 2-3/4 shells are about 1200 fps or faster. That effects it as well. You may have to move up to 1250 or 1300 fps until it gets broke in. The oil will help with the action and opening up the chamber. Oil the slides, the bolt. the receiver, everywhere anything slides, and see if that helps. Make sure the magazine tube is clean as well because it will cause the piston to drag. Also make sure you are not using the piston with no rings on it, unless you are shooting heavy loads. Otherwise use the one with the ring. If it is still hard to pull it all the way back after all that, look at the inside of the receiver on the left side and see if the shell carrier lifer is rubbing against it. There will be a rub sign if it is. Sometimes they will rub and cause the same issue. If it is, you may want to replace the trigger assy.

I have considered it, but would need to find a shop that can produce them very cheap. Takes me about 3 hours to make one on a lathe. Not cost effective for marketing. If you gun is shooting and cycling ammo just fine, except for a few certain ones, most likely you have no real issues, and I wouldn't do anything just yet. Time will loosen things up and it should do better later on. Oiling is usually the only issue for a failure to cycle. So I would make sure you oil all moving parts and see if it works. _However, if you want to check things out further:_ Check the spring on the left hand side of the trigger housing that operates the shell lifter and make sure it's not dragging against the trigger housing. If it is, adjust lifter side as needed. Check where the shell fails to feed. Is it at the chamber? If so, which side of the barrel is it stopping at? Adjust the lifter by bending as needed to move the shell in place. Ammo? Some are too light for it to cycle them. That's why I made the piston and moved the ring forward. Problem solved. Last but not least, check the button that releases the bolt. Is it dragging inside where the shell release is? Some do. This requires knocking the pin out and doing a little filing to get clearance. It may be a gunsmith issue depending on your expertise. There's not much more than those issues that effect cycling.

Thank you very much for all the suggestions.

I have been asked to make some before, but haven't made any to sell. The problem is it takes me about 3 hours to make one because I have to do it the old school way by hand on a lathe, plus I have to hunt down some stainless steel. I really don't have the means for production, or else maybe I would.

I don't use the camo shotgun anymore. But to answer your question, yes I shortened the spring. I put the stocks off the 3" camo one on the 3-1/2 gun to make it all camo, and the barrel on my old 2016 gun, along with the stocks off the 3-1/2 inch. Looks pretty cool. Black receiver, with black and camo stocks and camo barrel. Fixing the ring with groves is still the best short term answer if the ring keeps blowing off. In fact, it may even require more than just the ends. on groves. Space them apart and use maybe 3 or 4 cuts like i made. But I've never had any issues after just grooving the ends.

I had the same problem. In the I video link I pasted here, I show what I did at first, and it worked pretty good. Poor mans answer you might say. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/qbubZtiGvMmse4k.html Since then, I made and experimented with many styles of pistons to solve the problem of the ring blowing off, or even a ringless piston. In the end, I determined the ring had to be there if I wanted to cycle the light loads. I also determined the timing of the shotgun was off for the light loads, and needed a millisecond of timing change. So I cut a new grove on a piston and moved the ring forward. I had to make a jig to do that first in order to hold the piston straight in a lathe. Since I cut the new grove, I tried using two rings, and it worked perfectly. But the original grove in the middle of the piston began to collapse under the pressure after a lot of shooting. When I saw moving the ring worked perfectly, I made a completely new piston with the ring as far forward as I could so there would be no collapse. So far, I haven't blown the ring off, or had any issues. I even used the weakest of rings that I have because I figure if it doesn't blow off, problem solved. The very forward edge is the most centered section of the piston, which means less gas will go under it. The gas hits the ring in this position and deflects when it exits the port, whereas the original design receives gas pressure first and the gas can go under the ring even before the piston moves. All this happens in a millisecond of time. Some guns never suffer from this issue, for a couple of reasons, while other will. The pistons are designed to take up slack on some minor misalignment of the barrel and magazine tube. In doing so, they can wonder off center and the ring can blow off. Moving the ring forward eliminated all the issues. The other issue is the hardening of the ring itself. I have some pistons I can't even get the ring off of. The temper is very good and it doesn't move. I suggest you place an order and get a new piston because from what I have seen, they have figured out the temper of the ring is partly at fault. A new piston may be your answer. If that doesn't work, have someone make a piston like I made.

I might be later on, I'll let you know. But right now my time schedule is very packed, and I'm not set up for any kind of production. It takes me about 3 hours to make one on a lathe. All hand done, no CNC. Have you tried oil? Make sure you gun is clean and oiled in every part that moves. That affects cycling too. I know we are in a shortage right now, but anything over 1300 should cycle it. Many 1200 will work too, but also make sure it's 1 1/8 oz at least and not 1 oz.

The ring coming off is a major issue with these guns and a poor design. There's no reason for them to have continued it for this long period of time. There is a small fix for it. Got to 15:22 minutes in this video: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/qbubZtiGvMmse4k.html It shows what I did. I put a small angle at the ends of the ring to hold it down with pressure. I have since made a piston that has no ring and works very well. I will post a video on it soon.

Take the barrel off. turn the receiver upside down. Let the bolt fall to the top of the receiver. Pull the charging handle out. If you leave it upright, lift the front of the bolt up towards the top of the receiver, and the charging handle should come right out.

www.hatfieldguncompany.com and look under SAS parts.

Mine didn't at first either. But now it shoots most 2-3/4 I put through it. I use shells that are over 1200-1250 fps, and at least 1-1/8 oz. The key on 2-3/4 inch, is to use higher velocity loads. Mine even shoots my reloads as well. But most of them are around 1300+ fps.

Thanks for the info

I have no clue, but It could be.

I did the camo one first for a quick fix. (Version 1.0) And it works really well. But that's not the answer to a fixed or final solution. So I experimented with different types of pistons (that I made) and finally the simplest idea was the best. Just move the ring forward, on a little bit larger sized piston, and the results are no issues at all. (Version 2.0) I have let Hatfield know about this, but I haven't seen them take it seriously.

They have a new webpage, so you'll you have to type it in the bar at the top of your web browser. type: Hatfieldguncompany.com and look for the spare parts link at the top of the page. O Ring link Here: www.hatfieldguncompany.com/product-page/barrel-hanger-o-ring-sas-a29

The 20 ga is usually very good on cycling ammo. With that, there's only a couple of things that will stop the lifter movement. Keep in mind, I can't really tell without looking at it, but here's some of my thoughts: 1. If you can work it manually, and it loads, the shell itself maybe too long. Some of them are. Though I doubt this is the case. Remove the trigger assy. Keep in mind, you don't want to void any warranty you have by doing too much to work on it. 2. Clean and oil. Check this first. The trigger assy needs oil as much as the slides do. Oil it and make sure things are moving freely. 3. Check the spring on the left side of the trigger assy and see if it's rubbing against the plastic housing. If it is, you'll have to disassemble and slightly bend out the lifter arm that catches on the bottom of the slide. Only what you need, no more. 4. Also, make sure the arm is moving freely and doesn't have any burrs on it from use or break in period. Lightly remove any burrs if they are there. The trigger assy on these guns are much the same as used on Stoeger and Benelli. They do have hick ups now and then, but can usually be fixed. Any further issue on this, you may consider sending it in. When you put it back together, make sure you oil everywhere there is a moving part.

@@bgdesignandsolutions thanks that was my next step but was going to allow break in time. It does hamdle 2 3/4 great just the 3in is trouble. But ill shoot a little more take apart clean and oil good and check all that you told me about. Thanks for your help

@@charlesnorman1072 Keep me informed. Others who read these comments may want to know the results as well.

@@bgdesignandsolutions will do

I can tell you about it for now. Remove the bolt and hold it upright like it is in the gun over a bowl or something like that. Push in on the firing pin from the rear, and there should be a pin like piece fall out from the bottom. Slowly release the firing pin until the spring pressure is gone. Slowly pull out the firing pin and a small spring should fall out when you do or be laying the Lug itself. That spring goes around the firing pin. So when you put it back together, make sure the spring is in the channel where the firing pin will slide in at. Align up the cut away portion on the back end of the firing pin where the retaining pin that fell out goes, and put the retaining pin back in from the bottom of the bolt the way it fell out. It will hold in place until you put it back in the receiver. Hope this helps.

@@bgdesignandsolutions last question. Would this be a reason it wouldn’t fire? The hammer is hitting the firing pin but not hard enough.

@@970Sho Depending on what year and model you have there could be an easy answer for it. Assuming the firing pin isn't broke, and assuming you have tried to fire it on a live shell. *First,* make sure you are not putting 20 ga ammo in a 12 gauge shotgun. I've seen that happen. *Second,* check the shell to see if the firing pin has made contact with the primer. There should be small indents, or even a deeper indent on the primer where it looks like it was struck. If nothing is there, you more than likely need a firing pin. If it has a mark where it's trying to fire, then read on. Some of them came out with a firing pin that is just a tad too short, and they will not strike the primer deep enough to make it go off. In this case, you'll need to get a new firing pin. Another reason may be the ammo. There are some shells made where the primer is not flush with the base of the shell, but sits in a bit farther than other ammo. If this is the case, buy different ammo, and/or get a new firing pin. You should be able to push on the firing pin and see it sticking out the front of the bolt. This protrusion should be at least .065", and may go up to around .080." This is typical for shotgun to work properly including these. The pin should be around 3.145" long on the standard SAS models.. There's nothing in the trigger assy that will stop the hammer short of it's travel path. I'd say the issue is likely the pin, because it's next to impossible to put them in wrong. Another issue may the headspace, but that would allow firing to occur at times. Sounds like the firing pin is not right. You may want to just order a new bolt assy to make sure you have up to date items.

@@bgdesignandsolutions I ended up figuring out there wasn’t enough back pressure on the assy because it was too far from the from the hammer to make full contact. They other question I had was can certain loads just be to much for the gun because the tension spring in the trigger assembly for the catch keeps falling out. I was shooting 2 shot 1550 FPS loads and the spring would keep falling out, but with 4 shot 1250 FPS it runs fine. Any feedback would be appreciated. Not sure if I need to order a new spring or if there’s a fix for that.

@@970Sho Sounds like you have an older gun. What you described was very common. You can try a new spring and pin and it should work, or just buy a new trigger assy for around $59 from the Hatfield Gun Company and call it good. They have beefed up that area and the newer guns don't have that problem anymore that I'm aware of.

You may have to buy a new trigger assy. There is a small wire spring that holds it in place. I don't think they don't sell the spring by itself.

Good points, this is no doubt the 12 ga, but this video is about cleaning and not particulars. I have a 20 ga and I have never had any failures with it, so I have never addressed it. Typically, from what I understand, neither do most other people. The 12 ga is the one that messes up a lot, and from what I hear, also the 410. Most of the time, they only need cleaning and oiling to bring them back to life. Yes, they have made some changes over time with the 12 ga, but that was mostly to add the pressure release that I take apart in this video. The first ones made in 2016 did not have this valve, and came with two pistons. One with a ring for light loads, and one without for the heavy loads. The Idea of the regulator is to stop gasses and allow for more pressure to move the bolt back on the light loads, and release gases when a heavy load is fired. But as I point out, the regulators did not function because the coils were compressed fully all the time. By cutting the coils down, it allows the regulator to function. Since then, they have adjusted this issue and the springs can move more freely on the later models which allows the valve to work better. However, cleaning is just cleaning, and it's not part of fixing the problems that a good cleaning and oiling won't cure. Those are other issues.