**Please be aware that voltages found in this unit should be handled by experienced individuals only**
With the need parts now here we continue with part two where im working on the housing in an attempt to clean up all of the oxides that formed in the unit. Cleaning and scrubbing was needed in multiple sessions before all could be removed. During its drying id attempted to removed the broken screw, sadly failing short of the goal in the worst way; broken drill bit.
After this event the rest of the pump was cleaned up to remove all dirt and inspect seals. id taken a look at the cleaned up part and determined that an application of inox overnight would further help. The fan and shroud also benefited from a cleaning and will help keep things quiet.
The broken screw had a thin coat of RTV applied to reduce any vibration noise as the shroud is re-added , this time with anti seize. RTV us also used around the old bottom seal which was long gone so that the bottom portion can be re-added onto the pump motor and secured down. The thermal tape then removed from the surfaces and cleaned with acetone. All of the small plastic parts are cleaned with Jacks 327 applied to any orings for assembly. This includes the two drain plugs, the input/output seals and the basket cover.
The logic board, which was removed for testing and inspection is re-installed into the top cover, Following this the connectors coming from the motor are sprayed with Deoxit. Making my way to the drive unit the Rectifier is carefully cleaned up with acetone to remove the thermal tape residue.
Using a de-soldering pump the IC is de-soldered from the board, fresh solder is needed with flux for all pins to accomplish this. With the old chip removed the pads are further cleaned out with the solder sucker adding fresh solder first. This is followed by a cleanup with alcohol.
The new IRAMX chip is inspected and mounted into the board, stood off a few mm and taped on. Proper floxing is followed by soldering of the new chip onto the drive unit. Again, everything cleaned with Alcohol. A power on test shows the power supply to be working with the new IC installed. The power rail does show a good 15VDC.
A further reading of documentation gives me a good idea of my mystery capacitor settling on 4.7uf after deinstalling the temp one. Retesting again with the new cap, all is good. using mastic, i remade the insulation removed in part one based on the size of the two i salvaged. pressing them into the bottom of the tray i can see their original location. Then thermacoolflux is applied to the heatsink surfaces. The board is then layed on and secured loosely until all screws are in. then orderly tightened.
Black RTV is used to replace the outer seal, long dried out. a bead is applied around the whole unit. Then the top cover is applied and tightened down, excess RTV cleaned up.
The pump is re-installed into position, water and electric. A temporary wire up is conducted outside the provisions, a power up shows a good indication on the panel. The pump starts to prime, though I stop to preload the basket with water and re-power the unit. This is left to run supervised as it is monitored for noise and smoke. Everything is ok. Also not quiet with the fan cleaned out.
The cabling is installed permanently into the system, dielectric grease applied to the grounds. Some RTV was added to the remote cable entryway and the top cover reinstalled. $30 to save $1500 with a few hours work.
#haywardpump #poolpump #diyelectronics