Well thank you very much!

Yeah, great vid. But he missed the other capacitor which is on the side and repeated some misinformation the pool store spewed at him about the shaft seal. The reason you don't touch the seal is because having anything on the ceramic will cause it to fail very quickly. Oil from your hands will generate heat and cause failure.

I'm a big DIYer myself- I'm trying to film my repairs as I do them- Glad I could help

QWERTY ❤️ L AaA

I'll watch someone's video a bunch of times before I tackle a job and by then I know exactly what to expect and I can go in with confidence as well. Great to see and hear how this video is helping out.

Happy to help- you're welcome

Glad I could help! Sometimes, if you want it done right, you gotta do it yourself!

So sorry to hear about your loss... cancer has taken my first cousin and is now getting the best of my uncle... I'm glad I could help you out...

Glad this video helped. Did you get your motor from a pool supply house or from somewhere else?

Thanks! It's great getting the feedback

Now that's the kind of monetizing I can appreciate!

Many of the new pumps run at lower RPMs than older pumps for greater energy efficiency. Lower RPMS would mean less pressure and less suction but better energy savings thus saving you money. More suction doesn't mean the pump is necessarily better, it just means it will move more water through the filter in less time, which really isn't an important factor in keeping your pool clean. It doesn't really matter if all of the water in your pool is filtered in 4 hours or 6 hours, but the electricity savings is significant. See if you don't notice a reduction in your electricity usage. The only time suction really matters is when you vacuum the pool and that is controlled by the valve. Also I have air in my filter basket and my filter cleans my pool just fine. Lubricating the o-ring will help the lid slide around it as you tighten it possibly giving you a better seal but as long as the filter is cleaning the pool and not sucking in massive amounts of air, everything will be fine.

@@sunshinetv2419 Thank you for your feedback and explanation. I'll look for a difference in my electric bill. I called a Pinch-A-Penney pool supply store trying to get explanations and talked to someone who seemed to know what he was talking about but he tried to say and the pressure was too high even at the lower pressure from the previous pump, and to try to run it without the filter, and talked about extraneous things, including recommending a variable speed pump would work better. He never answered my question about the difference in performance between the pumps, probably trying to get me to bring something in for a repair, or upsell after the fact--he also said that the air bubble in the pre-filter basket is a problem no matter what size, which I don't believe. I believe the pressure is higher than the 10 or 12 pounds he says it should be because it's only got a 90 ft.² filter with a one hp motor, and my pool, being maybe 20,000 gallons, probably should have a filter twice that size, or at least 150 ft.²--at first I was going to have the filter replaced also, but it cost more than the pump replacement and it's worked fine like this for decades. What annoys me is the installers BS about the new pump having greater flow, and the bubbles and the pressure not being as high is because the pump is starved for water on the inlet side. (PS However, I think the specs indicate that the Pentair has greater GPM than the Dura-Glas, but it's hard to compare because they start with different head specifications). When I open the main drain to where there's equal distribution between the skimmer and the main drain, and the cleaner hardly moves, if at all, the pressure goes up a little but still below where was with the old pump, and there is still a bubble, although it's half the size. But the cleaner won't function that way, so I put it back to where it's just open a little on the main drain, and perhaps I adjusted cleaner hose valve at the skimmer to pull in less water, leaving more suction for the cleaner (The Pool Cleaner, originally by Poolvergnuegen) and now it moves at a respectable pace, although the bubble is back up to about 2 inches. Also the installer was trying to tell me the bubbles are because of cavitation from lack of water through the inlet because the pump pulls more water than the old pump, which isn't true--if it was cavitation the air wouldn't remain after the pump is shut off. Another explanation he gave for the lower suction and pressure is that the inlet and outlet openings of the pumps take 2 inch pipes, while the existing piping is 1.5 inch--also sounds like a another bogus explanation. If it is true then he installed the wrong pump. I cleaned the filter, which was somewhat dirty, and the pressure went from about 18 psi to about 15 psi. So I guess my only remaining question is, does it matter whether there's 10 inches of straight pipe to the pump Inlet instead of about 1 inch after the 90° joint? The installer said it didn't matter, and even the Pentair tech support guy seemed to say it wasn't important, although most online "pool experts" say it is. Would that have any effect on the air bubbles or, more importantly, would it make the pump quieter or last longer with a 10 inch straight inlet pipe (or even 7 inch pipe, which would fit in the existing cage cover)?

So glad my video could help out! Thanks for commenting!

I usually turn the loop the proper direction however the wires were so rigid and stiff that I decided not to fight it and twist it. I simply hooked it on the way it was facing and tightened it up.

Thanks for your reply, but guess what? An electrical inspector will fail this installation (it happens!). Be safe always.

@@jamesa.3299What electrical inspector is going to take your pool pump motor apart?

joseph gonzalez is

You're welcome! Glad I could help.

I took a look at the spot in the video that you pointed out and I looked at the video of the old motor and noticed the "springs" on the end of the motor shaft which I am assuming is the governor. Perhaps there is a governor inside the motor. But if there's not a governor what does that mean?

the guy from inyo pools told me that thing with the springs will activate the shut off when conditions are detrimental to the motor i guess too hot or too much current thanks for your video it was very well explained I just might have the balls to try replacing mine when the time comes

I didn't have to take anything off the old motor and put it on the new one... perhaps the electronics are just smaller on the new motor

I am by no means an expert, but I do know you can replace just the motor with one having the same specs.. if you replace the pump and motor you should buy them together. The pump is engineered for a specific size motor. I purchased my electric motor from an electric motor supply house in my area. You can do the same or you can order one online... I can't tell you which website because I really don't know. If you get an energy saving pump be certain it has the right amount of flow you need, especially if it's for water features. Those usually run much much slower and therefore pump much less water. Also be sure the cost justifies the savings. Figure how long it will take to get the extra money back that you spend on an energy saving unit up front. I think age as well as use will wear out the bearings especially if the unit is outside and uncovered. 15 years seems like a good run.

I'll have to find out an post it

The system probably needs to be primed. When the motor is replaced all of the water goes out of the pipes and it has a difficult time creating a vacuum to suck the water. Try taking the cap off of the pump filter basket and filling it with water like I did at the end of the video. My lines took several gallons of water to fill to get the pump to prime and work again... good luck.

I considered it, but for me I didn't think I would save enough to justify the upfront cost... I thought it would take several years before I saw the returns of a more efficient motor...let me know if you notice a considerable savings..

Sure. It'll be a while. The price difference was $230 between single speed motor ($173) and variable speed motor ($403). The benefit I get is to be able to run pump at low speed for longer time.

Glad you got it figured out and that it was something simple...

I googled electric motors in orlando. A&A Electric Motors is the place I used- They provided me with a Weg electric motor-- 2hp with a 1.10 SF, the same specs as the Max-e-glas motor. You also may be able to get a suitable one on Amazon with the right specs. The Weg had a 1 year warranty and seems to be running great

If you are talking about the large o-ring housing seal, then yes there shouldn't be any dripping. If there is I would first try tightening the band, if that doesn't work then take it apart, clean the ring and the trough it sits in, lubricate it with silicone then re-assemble.

@@sunshinetv2419 It was a slight weep from the area with the large clamp. A few more turns and all is dry. Thank you for your input.

Just an update. The area around the large clamp would still weep after about 2 hours of running. I ended up buying an OEM gasket with was squared off and thicker instead of rounded. This finally resolved the issue and I don’t even have to tighten the clamp down as much.

I googled electric motors in orlando. A&A Electric Motors is the place I used- They provided me with a Weg electric motor-- 2hp with a 1.10 SF, the same specs as the Max-e-glas motor. You also may be able to get a suitable one on Amazon with the right specs. The Weg had a 1 year warranty and seems to be running great.

its 220v... just look on the motor

I went to my local pool store and they hooked me up with the right ones. I took the housing down to them and they removed the old spring seal and installed the new one and added the lubrication. They also got me all of the other seals that were needed as well. I wanted to make sure I got the exact ones I needed so I went to the professionals.

Ok i got it it turns counter clock wise i unscrewed mines

I know this comment is 2 years old but yes you do.

The rubber gasket was on the original motor in the same place and I simply put it back on the new motor.... I'm not sure of its size- it may be possible to get one at a pool supply store if yours is missing

Thanks... depending on which way your motor spins will determine if you have a left handed thread. I'm not certain if they are all the same but I would assume they are. I replaced the one o-ring around the impeller housing (the white plastic piece) and the I put a new one on the pump housing which was the 12" one. I would replace the seals while you have it apart, they are cheap and if they fail shortly in the future you'll have to tear it all down again. That is the impeller housing at 3:57 the impeller itself is at 5:40. Good luck

@@sunshinetv2419 Thanks for the info - I appreciate it. Your pump looks SO MUCH like my DuraGlas PUMP that it's scary!!😁 Thanks again.

There is a nameplate on top of mine... here is what it says- Model P4EA6G-188L Code 1F02U Sta-Rite Ind., Inc. Delavan, WI. I looked it up here is a website with parts: www.pumpagents.com/partpages/StaRitePumps/P4EA6G-188L.html

@@sunshinetv2419 Wonderful! Thank you very much

I would pop the stainless clamp and check the impeller to see if it spins freely... also double check your wiring to see if it is connected properly, and that there are no fray wires touching stuff... that's all I can think of from here.

Also check your diffuser's hub. Mine was quite rusty and rough. I had to sand off rust and applied grease. Before removing rusts, I turned motor by hand and I can hear grinding sound between diffuser and impeller. After sanding and lube, it was much better. I am in process of ordering a new diffuser (~$25). Second thing was obvious: you did prime the pump, right?

Sounds like its not properly grounded... have your installer come take a look at it... also you need to install the gasket between the two parts of the housing.

@@sunshinetv2419 I really appreciate you taking the time out on a Sunday to reply back and try to help me. The o-ring between the two halves I installed. The pressurization problem is the same. I actually am the installer. I removed the old one using your video. Last year I replaced a motor at another complex but it was easier and came off without a hitch. It is also a smaller motor. This one was an old AO Smith. I've been manager here 6 years and never had a problem until recently. The old manager was manager 11 years and she said motor was never replaced during her tenure so I know the old one was at least 17 years old. I really wanted another AO Smith but Leslie's Pools of course sold me their Jacuzzi brand motor, i had no choice. The old motor all three wires including ground went through the electrical port and tightened by a Romex. This one only the black and white wires go through the port and the ground, which is a bare copper wire, according to the diagram on motor gets tightened to a screw outside the motor on the motor body. This complicates things for me since the ground would not reach if a did this so I attached all three not going through the port but removing the cover and going under the cover. It's the only way all 3 would attach. Does the Romex act as some sort of ground also besides the bare copper wire?

@@lolaflores5388 Its difficult to understand what is happening without seeing it. If you are still getting shocked you may want to have an electrician come out and take a look. Be sure the wires wrapped around the screws don't have any loose or frayed wires touching the other screw. I have a ground on the unit and a three wired ground. Not sure if it needs both but I would say the more grounds the better... I am by no means an expert. You should talk to a licensed electrician.

Ha! Even though it's known as the "shaft" seal I wouldn't recommend KY.... it breaks down very quickly in the presence of water... in my experience if you get the equipment warmed up enough you don't necessarily need KY. ; )

I was called out on this in another comment so here's my reasoning.....It's not that I don't understand the way a wire should be wrapped around a screw- the wire was already shaped like that and was super difficult to rebend to wrap the other way. I was also afraid if I did try that, the end would snap off and make the wire too short then I'd have to recut and strip all 3 wires, and maybe even cut the conduit- which at the time I did not want to take the chance of and have to do all the extra work. So I simply put the wire back on the screw in the shape it was bent and tightened it up... and as anyone can see, even an electrician, that it worked just fine. I do appreciate your comment though... and thanks for watching with such attention to detail that you noticed this... I do hope the video helped and perhaps everyone watching should know the proper way to wrap a wire around a screw and tighten it but that's another video