I like that RF emphasises attention to detail about our equipment instead of our posture and breathing. I have never once considered how my arrows are entering the target. My bet is that they could be a bit straighter. This changes everything. Thank you, RF.

Ranch fairy. At the very end. You with the buck teeth, hit me just right, hysterical laughing at you. My family members and friends just looked at me and said what’s so funny. My stomach hurt, that buck toothed hick got me. All where laughing at me laughing at you. Crazy. I needed it.

Archers ! Good News! Before you purchase arrows from the pro shop of your choice ask to spin test each arrow and ask upfront as a condition of the sale. Now the people who actually know how to cut arrows and install inserts are going get involved and the end result will be proper arrows and a righteous sales! Enjoy!

I have never seen anyone insert tune before! I will definitely be doing this from now on! Thanks for the info.

I'm a noob to archery and arrow building, so I'm glad I saw this video now, rather than later. Thanks for the tip and the clear concise explanation.

nailed the description of every archery pro ever.

Well.. Another fine tune tip I never paid much if any attention to before. Of course I always made sure my arrow ends were square, BUT, never imagined tuning my insert. Between this and the nock tuning, perfection will actually be obtainable. Great video once again.. I will keep you posted on the results of my next arrow build..

Thanks for the tips on tuning arrows has improved my grouping heaps . Looking forward to move videos rf

I have legit binge watched all your videos! Ordering the field point test kit.

Ouch lesson well learned. This makes great sense and much appreciated advice. Great video as always.

Excellent info. This is super helpful and useful!

1) Ranch Fairy has a wizard 2) After listening carefully and watching the demonstrations, the wizard is correct and therefore the ranch fairy is also correct. 3) After ordering arrows from a few different sources some of the arrows were excellent and others from the same batch not so much which tells me that they didn’t use the squaring tool. I am not surprised but now I know why I got what I got! Thanks wizard 🧙‍♀️ and ranch Fairy 🧚‍♂️! You both are removing my excuse for being a talentless archer and a poor shot when I don’t practice consistently! 🏹🐗☠️🏹🦌☠️

Wow makes sense! Built lots of arrows but never done this! Thanks for the tips! Great videos

Mr Fairy. You crack me up. Good stuff. Keep 'em coming!!!!!

Well done! Everybody can now hear their own inner "fairy" . Shoot straight and by all means, Light em up!

Big dip and a Flat brim LMAO!!! Perfect timing on the video new arrow parts will be in tomorrow along with broadheads will be using this next week! Thanks for the video!!

Nice vid!!!! I shoot a 29", 400 shaft at 55#. I am 75 years old and I can't shoot 70+#'s like I used to. I cut a 7" piece of an aluminum 2216 shaft which fits very tight over my shaft and epoxy it on the front end of the arrow. I also taper the front end of the 2216 to reduce friction. I get a clean pass thru on everything I shoot. The completed shaft weighs 525gr.

Lol so true at the beginning of vid. Ive had arrows cut not great and now i know why i had tuning issues with my broadheads. I just ordered a arrow square and will fix them myself. Im picky too when it comes to good arrows flying great

Good advice...i personally like to marker up and square the end of insert as well. Most inserts are mass produced with low quality control. sometimes i find high points or surface is square but not perfectly flat.

Most people are lazy. Sure appreciate your time and teaching

Glad to have found you! The Trad Lab, Jimmy Blackmon and The Push always were (and largely still are) my go-to for trad stuff, but there's a lot of compound nonsense online and it feels wonderfully reassuring to have found someone who backs up what they're talking about with objectivity. I've also never found anyone as thorough with arrows, of course. It's interesting that arrow tuning seems to be a much bigger thing in trad but I've honestly heard terribly few people talk about it for compound hunting.

Great presentation Troy .. It’ll help with my 710 grain setup . Send you a picture when their finished.. I’m concentrating up to 30 yards only 🦌🦌🏹

Where were you in 1989 when I really really need this information. Great video, great info!!!!

RF your the MAN! Not only do you share your knowledge, I dig your comedy, it's funny As Fu#k! thanks for the smiles you give me. Bless your heart.

Hey Troy, while squaring the insert side of the arrow, you should also stress squaring the nock side too. That is just as critical to arrow flight as the string pressure on release will cause the arrow to fly wonky if not square too. FYI... i know you probably know this Jedi Master. Thanks for what you do...

Excellent advise 👍

Chainsaw broadhead love it😂.

I do this to every arrow I build for myself and others. I also number each arrow and broadhead so they know what one matches perfect. It’s the little things that add up and make huge results

Never thought of doing this

Hmm, something new to try. Honestly, I haven't had all that much trouble with the inserts. I've used 3Rivers brass and Gold Tip brass and both spin true with Black Hornets or Stingers. I cut my own shafts using an antique metal lathe and a Dremel type cutoff tool, so I know the ends of the shaft are square. I've not found one that was tighter on one end than the other. Seems like quality control might be lacking on those. I've used Beman, Easton, and Gold Tip with the same results. I do nock tune though, so I'm looking forward to your video on that. I have also nock tuned fletched shafts, which seems to make a huge difference.

Man I’m learning all kinda stuff here

Good tip. That's one reason why I like slow cure epoxies. I skip the dry fit and usually go from squaring right to gluing, and then spin test until it's perfect and let it cure with the broadhead still in.

Life without an arrow saw scares me.

Dude you are hilarious 😂

thanks mate

Ha Ha! Great Video! Spin it until you find the right spot then mark it! Good info! Thanks!

Great advice, I would definitely agree that it isn't the broadheads fault for bad flight usually but I rarely hear people complain with expandable heads about inconsistent flight. Especially when you consider the fact that your average guy shooting expandable heads usually shoots further more confidently. (At least this is the case in my friend circle)

I once built a dozen arrows from factory 2nds. 200 arrows, I will not say the company, but out of 200 arrows, I squeezed out 12 that spun as true on at least one end. The end that spun true, it got squared, then the other end was lobbed off and spun again till it spun true, then all arrows cut to length and squared. I wish I would have known about insert tuning. Never gave it a thought. But out of those dozen arrows that I shot in house at the bow shop, I might have 4 left, I Robinhood the crap out of them lol, and they went through 4 different bows. I believe they are slap worn out because they stopped grouping at 60 yards. They still shoot good at 20 yards, but I do not practice at 20 yards.

Hey that is awesome no detail too small for tuning the arrow

Great videos no crap/bs, Look forward to the nock tune, as going to be building some arrows soon for a hunt in Spain in March wild boar and red deer ! Gold tip arrow 100grains of brass and 200grain cutthroat broadhead hopefully do the trick!! Watching from UK.

Silver sharpie works good too.

Learnt me somthin new t'day! Great video brother!

This is why I thank God I have a really long draw length and don need to cut them :)

I am a believer again (still?). After spinning some Beman Centershot's a couple days ago with my Magnus Stingers I found that most of them were wobbly. Granted, they're a couple years old and shot plenty of times, but it was obviously time to build some new one's for this season. Last night I followed through with this vid's teachings and it was obvious that there is a particularly better way to orient the insert into a particular shaft. You can't just say it's all the same. At least when the season comes I can't blame the broadheads...

I’m as lost as last years Easter egg but want to try this haha. Of course I’m throwing my FMJ’s at 70lbs that are 29 5/16” long at deer and getting decent results. I’m guessing that means I have a 28” draw but I’ve never asked just said here take my money. I’ve already bought magnus stinger buzzcut, and black hornet both 100 grain along with the jigs to sharpen them. So having only shot Easton FMJ’s for the past couple years and only walking into a archery shop to get them. What couple of brands of arrows do you recommend along with inserts? I don’t have to stay with 100 grain broad head just want to get dialed in before mid September!

I always have cork screwed my inserts in so the insert glue and shaft are completely covered and sets up right,then push down on the arrow on a hard surface to make sure it sets up flush. Key is to make sure your shafts are cut clean,squared and cleaned up inside and the edge has no burrs. .

Hey guys I can’t remember exactly what comment section it was. But some of us were talking about what arrows what inserts what draw length we had etc etc etc. I mentioned I got the Easton 6.5 acucarbon. I found them to nock tune quite quickly and so on. However they’re pretty weak. I was shooting a new bow that I love btw, Halon32 and I shot until I could barely hold the bow steady. My last shot I moved and I hit the dovetail joint on my 3D deer target on the legs. It’s freakin plastic. Well it totally shattered the arrow like a cheap piece of Chinese goods. My gold tip cheap ass cut downs are tougher than that. Don’t get the Easton 6.5 for building adult arrows. Gold tip hunter XT or black eagle or grizzly stick something that’s actually proven to be strong

Loving your channel. I’m moving up to an adult arrow next year. What’s the scoop on spinning inserts? Good, bad?

Hey I have piledriver 350 DS hunters I.D. is .244, I want to add brass, but hard to find 244s u know what other sizes I might try that will fit, before i just order things i can't use, any info appreciated. Thanks

Nice videos!! Just tried this but having some complications on my new dozen of BEA Ximpact, Ethics Insert/Outsert & Broadheads(Solid Legends/similar to Ironwill 125gr & Wasp Darts 100gr). Seems to be more of a mix and match as to which broadhead best produces less wobble for arrow than rotating the insert. As i try one broadhead/insert/arrow i will get a wobble no matter how i rotate but can switch shafts until find the right shaft with no wobble on the right broadhead. Is this possible its the broadhead mainly the WaspDarts produce the most wobble as the SL's are pretty spot on

What fletching do you recommend? I’ve been using blazers for years but I’d like to try other options.

Who is this big mike is he on KZfaq too tried to find him nut couldn't wouldn't mind watching his vids as well as yours and put it all together got some more arrows cut today back to the process starting with this step

I'm sure it's the broadheads!!!

can you do this process with recessed inserts like the ones on some easton fmj's?

You need to add one more step to your insert tune. You must match up the broadhead/insert straightness so that the broadhead ferrule spins as true as the arrow shaft. You should marry one broadhead to one arrow for as perfect alignment as possible.

I gotta admit, you answer every question I'm about to ask myself out loud when I'm watching these videos. I fuckin love it man. Keep this shit up! I've always doubted so many things regarding my arrows. I just wished I would've caught onto your videos a couple months ago so my ocd and my wallet had the time to recover before bow season kicks off in September. 🤙

It would be interesting to see a well cut & squared shaft with the knock and insert set at the worst position, against a matching shaft with both in the best tuned position, shot from a machine mounted bow; bare shaft and fletched. There would be no arguing with the importance of the tuning if the quantifiable results were different under these circumstances. Seems nuts to go to extremes on bow quality and tuning then piss those small gains away with poor arrow build. Even on field points I suspect that asymmetrical weight on the shaft ends would cause deviation in the shaft flight during the early high flex portion of arrow travel. Thanks for sharing Mr Fairy.

Good video..only way to build an arrow

How do you determine spine number. With my short draw and lbs I should be shooting 400

Sooooo, finally got some stingers, apollo 250's and the ethics inserts. Im trying to spin them and they wont stop wobbling. Also i cut the insert down a bit. Am i right in assuming that it is going to be next to imposible to get them to spin straight if they arent cut perfectly? None of the three arrow/broad head combinations(or field points) will spin without wobble.

Not sure if anyone already mentioned it but if you can get your hands on some silver sharpies it makes the squaring part a little easier to see.

I’m onboard. My final inserts slide in/out easy and your spinning method here has been tough to do with about half my arrows b/c of the fit. Going to switch from CA to epoxy and and use an arrow spinner (instead of spinning the point on the countertop) which I think will fill the “slop” and hold things in place while I spin them in the fixture, plus allow me tweak them while the epoxy sets. Sound like a good approach?

Question - when you tune an insert and spin test it with a broadhead, won't it only spin true with that broadhead. If you screw another broadhead into that insert couldn't it show some wobble? Or will every broadhead spin perfectly?

When you put your inserts in do you make sure your broad heads line up the same way. With a 2 blade are they vertical, horizontal, on an angel or does it not matter. When you start nock tuning they might be all different ways

Troy, I've been watching your videos and love the science behind it! I'm a golf professional and have been making and tinkering with clubs for over 30 years and many of the same issues happen with club building. I've been shooting the standard 400 spine arrows with 100 grain broadheads for years and have killed many deer, but have also not been as consistent as I would like. Watching one of your videos with the Hunting Public, I noticed you put Ted into a 300 spine with 225 grains up front. Like Ted, I shoot 60 lbs with a 28" draw length. You stated in this video that there seems to be a honey spot with these set ups and the 300/225 arrows. I would like to move to a heavier, more FOC arrow for next years deer season. Would you suggest getting the test kit, or just order 6 of either the Orions or Vulcans? Do you have a preference between the two? Sincerely, Dave Seeman

Hey mate nice vid, good info! Im just new to archery and fallen head into it, it’s hard to find information though with the sheer volume of junk you read online. Please if I tell you my set up can I have your opinion if it’s adaquete particularly on enough foc? Do have a 65 pound at 28 Damon howat hunter by Martin archery- I draw 30 inches so around 70 pounds draw weight, bought x12 Easton fmjs dangerous game arrows with 300 spine at 15.5 gpi which gives me 555 grains for finished arrow fletched and with brass inserts, minus the point, looking to use 200 grain Broadheads this will put my foc to 17%.. I shot all 12 through a Chronograph and got 195 feet per second with 175 grain field tips so maybe get 190 with the 200s, also would weigh 755 grains so a little over 10 gpp. Would this pass through a large red deer? And is my foc high enough or should I use standard fmjs with a 200 grain head? Pleae reply it’s hard to find good help! ESP in New Zealand lol

I too am 51 and thought I knew it all...Hell, I bin fletch'n my own arra's fer pert near 25 years...I digress...time to get back to nock tuning...I might need more Sharpie colors. It's hard for me to commit to 1 spot...think I need longer inserts.

Any experience or opinion on the spinning insert from ethics archery?

Will spinning arrows on a arrow spinner work the same? Or are you doing this on a table to keep it all together since it’s not glued in.

Does the wizard have this all written down somewhere, or is there a good book defining these steps to making quality arrows

how would you tune with the shorter stock insert? I just order some Hunter XTs was planning on using the stock aluminum insert

Hey I was just wondering if the glue would also cause some wobble...Is there a way to minimize this....probably not putting on a huge glob but also the glue wont be perfect weight because one part is likely to be lower and gravity will pull more glue that direction? What are your thoughts and how do you deal with this?

Can expand on the wobble? I am using 551 grain set up including a 125 grain tooth of the arrow on front. I am trying to insert tune everytime I spin it, it looks great no matter which direction the insert is? What am I missing?

Which insert glue have you found works best with the apollos?

Can you insert tune with different broadheads? or should it be tuned with the model you plan on hunting with?

Thoughts on the Ethics spinning inserts? Would those eliminate the time needed for insert tuning shown here and would they work as well?

What flavor broadheads are those? They look quite nice.

You should try out the Valkyrie broadheads supposedly they are the one of the toughest and sharpest heads and they create a lot of FOC

I have a question. I have slight wobble with my outsert some " proshop " guy messed them up, once I four fletch them will it kill accuracy or Penetration enough to worry about?. I can't get the outserts out to save my life I think he used super glue.

What would you say to someone that wants a big boy arrow but wants to shoot out to 100 yards I run into clearance issue with my sight

U can also square the actual insert on the squaring jig after glued in u should do it anyway especially with cheap inserts

I dont understand how would you insert tune if you first need to shoot the test kit of field points to see what weight flies the best? You wouldnt know what size insert you are going to use until you try a diff combo of point weights- then you settle on what hits the best and figure out what insert wt and head combo you are going to use. That said , you are going to have to glue your insert in to test so what if you find the 300grain field tip flies the best(stock insert) and you have 150grain broadheads so you are going to need a 150grain insert. How do you get the old insert out, and do you then try to insert tune it? Maybe i've overthinking this or thinking wrong but I dont get how this is possible if you go thru this process from scratch

I think you need to show the process on how you found the location to make the mark. Thanks

Do you also square the insert after its tuned?

Hi mate just bought a new 50# recurve . i can build a 550-600gr arrow with 27% foc light arrow heavy waight up front . or i can build a similar waight arrow but less foc more waight in the sharft wich would be better ?

Do you have to do this with the footer ? or just the insert. TIA

Have you made a video explaining vane off set for heavy and 400ish grain hunting arrows?

Well said!!!! About the archery shop kid😂 sadly it's true

I'm shopping for 200gr single bevel broadheads and I ran into left wing and right wing bevel. Which one do I want or does it matter?

So this happens after you figure out the handload? Do you just take the insert out of the test arrow and tune it to your broadhead?

Does the weight of the insert matter? What weight would u recommend to get a higher FOC? I shoot 29" arrows at 70#

I thought you were supposed to cut full length 1/8" at a time. Your saying to go ahead and cut them all way down?

What if your insert is not square. Then what do you do?

Crazy question of the day... when building your arrows.. is it a good idea to set the broadhead in a position that puts the main blades at 12 to 6 O'clock.. and inline with most cock vanes? It seems this set up would also help slip the broadhead between ribs in the rib cage adding to a complete pass through. I used to do this when building my shafts when using flappers. Id spin test the insert, add the broad head, then fletch the shaft with the head in the 12 O'clock position. What Im really asking is if this a good idea or not needed

I was afraid of buying shafts on Ebay. Im a noob at archery and I dont have the equipment to do workups on my own yet. So I ordered my shafts a 1/2 in longer than i need.

Your opinion.. Inserts or outserts? And why..TY in advancec

Do you need an impact collar for hunting?

I shoot 60lbs 30 inch draw I only white tail hunt what arrow set up and broad head would you recommend

Almost the same as woodies. Keep easing around till they shoot straight. Light bulb moment

I have watched this a couple times and I still am not seeing the wobble when it is off tune. What am I missing?