Great stuff Troy! I'm a believer... Thanks to the THP boys for sending me your way.

“Here’s the deal: you need to shoot. A LOT. Of shots.” This is where most gomers stop. They’ll shoot a few twizzlers and get them to group, then slap on a huge mechanical their favorite professional hunter is pimping, and after naming all their bucks, they’ll try to “put da rage in da cage”.

This is step 2, but the title says step 3. You should make a playlist with the whole tuning process in order.

Great idea Troy. Going to try this out tomorrow and I'll get ahold of you with some questions. Thanks for showing this process.

Ranch Fairy, your the best. Don't know if I watch you for the entertainment or the knowledge. I used to shoot a modern longbow, JD BERRY Pin Viper at 60 lbs. Set my arrows up the way you are and what a surprise. The bow was more accurate, arrows hit like pile drivers and you could feel it in your hand and arm, the bow loved it. I think I learned all this stuff from reading Trad Bow magazine. Due to being clumsy and old and having a sore wrist and Shoulder I have not bow hunted in 5 years. I stumbled into the Hunting Public vidios about a month ago and got fired up to go bow hunting. They are a great bunch of guys and I discovered you through them. Was so good to see you can set up a compound to shoot them heavy arras. Can't wait but it always stretched my patience pretty thin. Keep on preaching the truth. My old Baptist preacher says if nobody throws a few stones you better examine what your saying cause fairy tales don't upset anyone but the truth usually does. Preach on Brother.

Awesome…keep up the great work… and don’t ever change your personality, it super great having someone around whom you can learn from and can constantly keep you interested while keeping the entire process fun… i am new to this sport and by far you have simplified an abundance… Thank you

Glad I found you Troy. This truly is simply THE system to Kill. Thanks for sharing Ranch fairy> Inspired

This video is incredibly helpful. Watched it again today, and then went out and nock-tuned my first three Apollos. I used my carpenter's square to check if the arrows were perpendicular in the target, and found that very useful.

This is a very good video I have discovered in my shooting that a Turbo Nock’ fixes most of these problems it spins my arrow at 9000 RPMs and my flight is phenomenal

Troy man I got to thank you because I always thought I had perfect arrow flight but I built me a set of adult arrows and went through all the steps and now I’ve got 560 Gn arrows with 17.5 % foc that bare shaft or fletched group together and fly like darts with no wobble , thanks again man for the great information

Nice video, i'm not sure if i've been lucky or not but i've found marking the carbon shaft seam (yes they all have one) and fletching the index vane on that mark along with using pin knocks makes arrow tuning faster with less wasted arrows that won't behave like their siblings. A friend also showed me to find the spin direction of the bare shaft and fletch them right or left based on that rather then just fletching everything right like i use to do.

Working up some turkey loads, after many hours of RF and other viewing. I hope to contribute to the lightweight HFOC world of Head-Lopping broadheads. I've had communication with several manufacturers with mixed advice...my plan..continue with Broadheads "pulling" freakishly large head-choppers. Also saw another vid that inspired me to take your bare shaft and nock tuning to another level. Standard 3M Super 33+ electrical tape weighs 1.6 grains/inch. Algebra, (yeah I had to brush up) tells us that 6.25" of tape equals my 4, 4" Gateway shield cuts...gonna wrap that around my bare shaft and play with effects on spine.

Dude, last line bout needin a mechanical. HILARIOUSSSSSS

Hey sir ranch fairy.. One thing i would like to point out as a tip. Once you have one shaft tuned and straight in the target, shoot it off a coupe inches to the side and leave it in the target. Then tune the rest of your arrows. This gives you a very accurate square to visually compare the rest of your shafts immediately. Both horizontal and vertical. Good work bro. Keep spreading the word of heavy arrows. Even guys that refuse to use fixed blades need to understand that mass and FOC will greatly increase their effectiveness, even more so with the flappers. 👍

Thank you

I'm with you on not liking this dry, granular type tuning but it's like a lot of things. Put in the work up front and enjoy the payoff later on. Just got some new arrows I'll be building for the upcoming season. 28" 5mm Axis that I'll be tipping with 75gr insert and 125gr Magnus Black Horny Ser-razor. Total arrow weight should come in around 560ish grains. Excited to get them tuned up as this will be the heaviest arrows I've built!

in the beginning...maaaan u were annoying, but now.....this is the way to go, keep up the good work!!:)

learned alot thanks sir

Love your BRASS nock point.. Dude its 2020 .. Learn to tie !

Thank u for showing this. Maybe people will realize now that without a true straight flying arrow, the arrow will hit its target sideways and this will decrease the effect on the arrows penetration and of course accuracy

Great!!! Now I have to tune my nocks. 😟. I always hear people say “got that one flyer”. Well, there you have it.

Another Great video!

Good evening RF, am enjoying your videos a lot👍 Could you please give me your take on FOBs fletching. I have not used them on my new set of arrows yet , am still putting them together. But I have used them on the flappers, I think it has help some. I just don’t like fletching arrows period. Please advise! Thanks a million for your dedication to try to show everyone how to shoot an ADULT ARROWS 🤙

Seems like a hell of a lot of work.

I’ve got some arrows that are good. But building a dozen of the same recipe and going to super tune. I’ll make a video and tag ya sir. You’ve changed my view. This is all hand loading like ya do for a rifle.

RF your the SShit..! I dig precision, Your that guy. Keeper coming.😵

I believe carbon arrows are built from 2 pieces glued together... so there is 2 seams on every arrow.... at least they did years ago. So it makes sense that rotating your nock changes your impact point. Please correct me if I'm wrong. Seems I also remember that aluminum arrows have a seam and we would start our fletching on our jig with the seam in the same position for each arrow we fletched. We found we got much better groups doing so.

I nock tune my pre fletched arrows, cant get as precise as bare shaft but it absolutely makes a difference. After two separate times from two different shops getting arrows cut wrong I already decided to just build my own. Then I will fine tune each arrow for best flight.

Nothing like reinforcing your aggravation by shooting thousands of bad arrows!

I use Paper and Tune the Bow. You may have some inconsistency in your points/damaged points. You may have inconsistency in your nocks/low quality/damaged. A quality set of Arrows goes a long way. As in Aluminum or New High Tech Carbon Composites. You also have to have a stiff enough Arrow. High front weight will mess things up. May need an overdraw to keep them stiff enough.

Easton Axis Trads...Almost any nock tune works for me. I still go through the process, because there ARE spots on the arrow that are not as good as the majority of spots. NOT an excuse for neglecting this part of the tune. This is where you need to get intimate with each shaft, (that's what she said), and know what is the BEST nock position. Inserts are not as consistent for me, running about 60% broadhead worthy with Ethics and hot-melt, the rest get field points and a NFG mark...got 2 that won't insert tune. Just some perspective, if your arrow handloading is making you crave some of RF's Zannies!

So I saw another video on the bare shaft coming out of the bow oriented either left or right. Usually depending on the clockwise or counter cloak wise orientation of the bow string. So I marked the bare shaft and shot it from 3 yds. Sure enough my string is twisted counter clockwise and my bare shafts are coming out the same way. Trouble is my fletching is right offset so it supposedly has to initially fight the arrow before winning over and rotating clockwise.

I was literally FIGHTING today trying to bareshaft tune. Could not get it to work. I had a nock left that I could not get rid of. Then I rotated the nock a quarter turn and it shot absolutely perfect. I guess I'm going to nock tune all my arrows.

That sounds like a C5 flying

Hey! I like the videos, There informative and based in Evidence...Thanks for that..I guess you shoot Bishop arrows..Seem bullet proof... Out of my price range. What's your next favorite arrow ? Victory?

Most Victory arrows come with the spine marked, making this process and fletch and go much easier and more accurate

Troy just want to make sure I'm putting this all together properly. 1st insert tune and glue 2nd bare shaft nock tune 3rd fletch arrow 4th install broadhead and confirm nock tuning 5th switch to lighted nock if we choose and confirm hunting set-up Go kill some stuff!!

Nock Tune Baby!

Troy, any difference when using luminocks vs standard nocks or changing them out if not hunting and if battery runs out etc?

Great video Troy, in the ideal world would it be better to tune the arrows by shooting them through the bow and by archer the arrow are being made for?

Is the tuning for that particular individual nock or can it work with, say a lumenok you put in for the season? Trying to determine if it’s a matter of the clock orientation on the rear of the shaft or the exact mating of an individual nock to that arrow. Can you still do the tuning with fletched arrows, or does it mask the differences (compared to bare shaft)?

I think he's ted nugents little brother, lol . They act very similar.

I’m thinking of getting your kit and trying out high FOC setups. Do I start with that or nock tune the arrows first?

I totally agree the shafts should be squared at both ends. Would you get the same results if you French tuned the arrows, or does the tuning have to be bare shaft or paper tuning?

Stupid question but if you're going to use lighted knocks, you need to use them throughout the tuning process correct?And throughout all your summer practice? Gonna get expensive draining the batteries, but no point in indexing the stock ones to switch right before season I guess.

Ranch Fairy, I'm about to order my weighted inserts from Ethics, but I'm curious if I were to buy the spinning inserts instead, would that eliminate the need to insert tune like their website claims? Trying to get my new arrows built before late archery season right after Christmas. A reply would be great!

Just when I thought I was getting somewhere…….I saw another video on the bare shaft coming out of the bow oriented either left or right. Usually depending on the clockwise or counter cloak wise orientation of the bow string. So I marked the bare shaft and shot it from 3 yds. Sure enough my string is twisted counter clockwise and my bare shafts are coming out the same way. Trouble is my fletching is right offset so it supposedly has to initially fight the arrow before winning over and rotating clockwise. I did notice that 1 of the 3 new string sets I have is twisted clockwise. Now I’m debating whether it makes enough difference to press the bow and reverse rotation of my bow string.

Discovered your channel through THP. Always been a gun or crossbow hunter but looking to explore compound. I’m not sure if this question will be answered in a future video, as I work through them, but I’m not sure if I am at a chicken and egg scenario. You see information on people buying a new bow and having it tuned at the shop. But am I mistaken in thinking that the shop is tuning the bow with untuned arrows? Hence my confusion.

I'm confused a bit. I get all the tuning and dig it all. However I'm not sure what I do first, knock tune or bare shaft tune your bow? How do you knock tune an arrow when your bow isn't bare shaft tuned and how do you tune your bow when the arrows aren't knock tuned? Does this make sense?

Big Mike has been pounding on you? OMG LOL

What distance does big mike do his nock tuning through paper at please

Bowshop guys hate me now. Lol Ranch fairy laugh

Hi master... i would be really interested to see if your arrow floated in a bath and see if your mark floats to the top or should be the bottom. Too late if inserts are in but would still be interesting

my question is... I'm setting up a new sight and new arrows at the same time! I'm building a 550 to 575 grain arrow setup with black eagles and ethics archery inserts. Question is what do I do first? Make my arrows up first and shoot with the old sight then flip sights or put my new sight on and take it from their?

Do you think Broadhead and fletch alignment / orientation has any importance ?

I did this, and was very pleased with how easy it was to get the arrows to "point back at me." Will i need to do this all over again if i decide to change arrow set-up?

Got 6 new shafts on the way will be doing the insert and nock tuning for them when they get in. Have that big disadvantage on this shooting the recurve so many little things I could be doing wrong that will change results. Any advice on doing all of this for a recurve or longbow?

So if you do ALL this them when you fletch and shoot a b.h. and it pulls or is a little wonky, would you then turn the knock again? Do another knock tune..

I'm a four fletcher with a Bitzenberger and a slight helical on 29" Victory arrows. I currently shoot a biscuit on an Elite bow set at 53lbs. I'm going to move to trying feathers and start squaring my arrows. Would I benefit from a drop away rest? Thanks for the videos.

But what happens when you watch the flight on video? I have found that it may land in the target straight but in slow motion camera it shows the tail kicking

So when your nock is good then how do set that in a bitzenberger Fletcher because if set it in with Sharpe mark the vane will not set aligned

If you shoot a Gold Tip in your test load should you shoot them in the end or does it matter what brand of arrows as long as the spine is the same?

When building adult arrows and adding weight up front how is your spine selection affected?

i started tuning my bare shaft 300 spines my first shot was a horrible right tear (LH shooter) so i turned knock counter clockwise and it took half of it out but its still 2” slanted out to the right. but i noticed i hit in the same place very consistently top left amazingly accurate just right tear how do it get it out? i already tried adjusting my rest; just moved where i hit still does the tear. and my old 340 fletched arrows shoot bottom right after rest adjustment for the 300s

How far back should you shoot from the target when doing the bare shaft testing?

I tried this and my arrows have a left tear. My rest is maxed to the right. Is it cause my spine is too soft? 215 point weight, 500 grain total arrow weight. 350 spine, 58lbs draw, 27 in arrow length. Should I go stiffer arrow spine or lower poundage?

If you break a nock, do you remove the fletching and re-tune bareshaft?

I went and got some 350 spine arrows with hundred grain outsert and 150 head. The arrows are shooting to the left. Any suggestions? Do you think paper tune should help me solve the problem never had this problem with old arrows. Thanks so much in advance .

Probably a stupid question, but at which step does impact testing come in? Say you nail your paper bareshaft, your insert tune and your nock tune, then you fletch up some arrows. What if bareshafts are impacting differently from fletched arrows? Do you make adjustments to i.e. your rest at this point?

Mr. Ranch Fairy, sir, could you please make a compilation video of that Gilbert guy or whatever his name is

Ranch Fairy, the video with the Hunting Public changed my thinking. I have shot a Wasp Jack Hammer 3 blade mechanical for a long time. Can I DM you?

if i´ll be use a lighted nock, i tune with it? or i can tune with a regular nock?

I have to use paper or I'll keep convincing myself it's off and keep tinkering with it.

You do realize the little stub on the side of the knock is a tuning reference right ??? Most have them ... yes easier to see with a sharpie mark but if you find yourself without one on hand . 😊

What the difference from a nock tune and rest tune? How do i know which is off? What came first the chicken or the egg?

Can u fletch nock tune and get same results?

At what yardage did you shoot the nock tuning?

Late to the party, but you touched on something at the end of this video. What happens if you do all the proper procedure and then get rid of structural integrity and throw a flapper on? ( my guess is you increased the lethality quite a bit) anywho..... just musings.

I'm a long time fisherman (been fishing for over 40 years) and newbie bowhunter and love it. Trying to learn and Dr. Ashby's research papers and conclusions seem legit and make sense to me. My question to you is once you nock tuned your arrows, have you ever done a test to see if your nocks are indexed 90 degrees from the spine's weak plane? I'm curious if one can determine the weak plane of the spine on a crude spine tester (which takes less than a 1 minute) or compress the arrow to determine the weak plane of the spine (which takes even less time) and have the same results. This would also allow this frugal person :-) to hopefully cull my arrows that are already fletched (don't have a fletching jig yet) … maybe I'll get lucky and one of the 3 blazer vanes will be close to the strong spine plane. Keep up the good work! Are you aware of any arrow manufactures that fletch the cock vane to either the strong or weak spine plane?

Can you bare shaft knock tune with lighted knocks?

Hey brother love the vids, seems like you and big mike have some really good ideas. I would love to see more Hog bow hunting videos in the future! I also have one question, why shoot such a long arrow when you can drop down one spine to a lighter shaft and trim that extra 4 or 5 inches off to stiffen it into the previous spine and save the 40-50 grains of extra arrow weight and put it up front by using a heavier thicker Broadhead and gaining the FOC? Just a thought, sorry to ramble I’m a big fan of the channel though, keep up the awesome vids and shoot straight!

Is there anyway to do nock tuning on already fletched arrows?

Hey man, be careful with certain targets, because if the target isn't square to you then it might not stick in squared and give you wrong info. Paper is more consistent, but I understand that a lot of people don't have access to shoot through paper.

Will this change after fletching the arrows?

When bare shaft tuning and arrows aren't hitting correctly, how do you know if it is a nock issue or a rest alignment issue?

So which tune should be first? Bare shaft tuning or bare shaft nock tune?

If I’m shooting a target with a flat face, can I take a speed square and check my square from my arrow to the target face? If I’m square all the way around the arrow, I should have perfect bare shaft flight right?

Can someone tell me wtf FOC means? Been watching and watching videos for Troy to say what it is but nothing! Maybe I'm missing it!? Would help a great deal if I knew what the hell it meant!

I understand the wizard likes to create his handload by shooting at 21 feet. For bare shaft tuning how far do you stand? I see you might be around 10 yards but cameras always make it seem far. You’ve said you like to just stand at 10 yds for handload, how far for bare shaft tuning?

Theyflygood in your bow but will they fly good out of every bow?

What’s the distance you shot at? 20 or 30 yds?

Ranch fairy Doesn’t Fletching weight and length will stiffen your arrow? And if so wouldn’t that mean that you would have to incorporate that in your bare shaft tune?

Awesome info! Is there anyway I can speak to you about this stuff? I'm. It very good at this computer crap! I live down in Georgia. I can give you my number if that works for you?

Nock tune or spine index?

Arent you actually finding the spine of the arrow, and indexing it? Have you initially found the spine and marked it,,just to see if that is what lines up?

I just started watching your show. Will all or some of the arrow tuning work with a long now

Troy is really stirring the pot lol a bunch of other bow channels are trying to make the claim that FOC and weight are bogus and not needed. Sean McVeig who I happen to like has made a video in response to mine and several others comments about this content. He kinda jumped the gun and made some assumptions and went on to show a big tuning process under the assumption that ppl are focused on making heavy arrows but forgetting to go through a tuning process which is totally inaccurate. Troy is making shit loads of content based on nothing but tuning, and achieving perfect arrow flight. Plus added weight based on how YOUR bow responds and behaves. Nobody said make a 600 thousand grain arrow and don’t worry about tuning. Nobody said you neeeeeeed 1000 grains. He’s just demonstrating what it can do. The rest is up to you to decide if that’s what you want or need. It’s just information to digest and try. Not be bogged down in one thing only 🙄

I know everyone calls it nock tuning…but. Whether you use bare shaft, fletched shaft or broadhead tipped shaft. Aren’t you really “shaft” tuning. For example some people turn the arrow on the bow, the nock doesn’t move…so it’s actually the shaft that is being indexed, not the nock. What say you?

seems like a lot of work to shoot a deer and have them break it when you kill them