I don't have lye or glycerin in my kitchen.

Can you e batch this? Aka re melt?

Super kzfaq.info/get/bejne/hrOooKhondq1YXk.html

Hello, This recipe is made with NaOH! :) KOH is just as easy to work with, though. That said, it is used for liquid and cream soaps mostly (I have a few liquid soap recipes up on the blog too). I wanted to have a very hard bar of soap here and used NaOH with hard oils to obtain that. The other ingredients are used as a solvent to get a more translucent type bar of soap- what you are used to seeing when you think of glycerin soaps. This soap has a great lather. It's one of my favorites!

Oh, The Things We'll Make! thank you so very much!!!!! I will look forward to trying this at some point. It's a beautiful soap!

Thanks! Mine has darkened a bit over the months, and now looks a lot like most amber colored glycerin soaps that you can buy here at the store. I want to take some new pics to show the update on the blog. ;)

Thank you!

Aww- you're welcome! Thank you!!

Can you put the soap in the microwave after is hard ?

Thank you. Some days I'm more patient than others. 😉 That said, I always like to at least try to help. 😊

Thank you . Do u mind if I have the right measurements for making that soap. Email : shakimagaba@gmail.com

Thanks! :)

when the soap is in the mold? like spray the top part of it?

@@osirusj275 yes.

Sorry I missed your comment before! I haven't been too upset about the shrinking when drying, but yes, it's definitely an issue. I've seen that some people do wrap their glycerin soaps soon after making them to stop shrinkage or beading up of glycerin on the outside of the soaps. I touch on the topic in my post about curing soaps: thethingswellmake.com/how-why-and-when-to-cure-soap/

Hello, you do have to be careful with certain metals when working with lye. That's why it's a good idea to avoid metal molds when forming your soap. That said, using stainless steel tools while making the soap isn't going to cause you any problems. I normally use stainless steel bowls for mixing the lye with water now, too, as some people have had glass bowls break when it quickly heats up from the chemical reaction. I have never had that happen to me, but it's definitely something I'd rather avoid. ;)

I'm sorry to hear that. It still should have made a decent soap, though. Even if it doesn't go translucent/tranparent. Didn't the soap turn out nice?

Nope, its ok.. Its a part of learning. But I will try again

Oh, The Things We'll Make! I love to watch it again 😂😂 . I found 190 proof etoh and I thank God it worked out nicely. I just keep my 1st batch. I really inspired this video 😍😍

@@MayFint Yay! I'm os happy it worked out well for you. It just goes to show, when things don't work out well the first time, try, try again. :)

Good luck. :)

Ap na recpe sahe nai btai quantety kitne ha sb ingreedeants ke plz rply

She knows urdu ?🤔

The full recipe is here: thethingswellmake.com/homemade-glycerin-soap-recipe-from-scratch/

Hello, You'll notice that in the description there is a link to the full recipe and instructions. This video is meant to accompany the post so that people can see what the process looks like better. Full recipe and instructions at: thethingswellmake.com/homemade-glycerin-soap-recipe-from-scratch/

Yes, it's animal fat- from beef, so it's probably not a favorite in India. I have a vegan glycerin soap recipe up on the blog if you prefer that. 😉

The problem is that diluting bar soaps into liquid isn't the same as making a true liquid soap. Liquid soaps are made with KOH and bar soaps are made with NaOH. Some bar soaps dilute better than others, and I imagine glycerin soaps would dilute relatively well, but I still much prefer a true liquid soap.

The link to the full recipe and instructions are both in the cards in the video and in the description. It only takes a click to get to the place where everything is fully taught in detail. You can find it here: thethingswellmake.com/homemade-glycerin-soap-recipe-from-scratch/

The soap itself is a surfactant (just different from detergents and other surfactant types). Coconut oil and tallow give the soap lots of lather. This soap lathers well.

You'd have to run it through a lye calculator first to make sure it doesn't affect the amount of lye you need to use. While you can modify the recipe, keep in mind that different oils make different types of soap. Here I chose more solid fats like coconut oil because they make a harder bar of soap. A hard bar is needed in this recipe because the solvents (the alcohol, glycerin, and sugar) will remove part of the structure of the soap. If you don't start with a very hard bar of soap to begin with, you could end up with a mushy mess after using the solvents. (The solvents are what makes the soap more translucent.) Hemp oil shouldn't really be used in very large quantities in soap making because it doesn't make a very stable soap on its own. It can be added in small amounts, though. Keep in mind, also, that fats don't behave the same way in soap as they do in a lotion or oil mixture. They won't have the same properties because of the chemical reaction.

@@Thethingswellmake I think I'll just go with your recipe and save the hemp oil for lotions. Thank you for your quick reply.

Hello, Yes, but you'd end up with a liquid soap paste instead. I've never made liquid soap with tallow, but have made lovely liquid soaps with coconut oil and olive oil. You'd have to run it through a lye calculator to know how much to use.

Will do so thanks. My reasoning is that since tallow and lye only combo supposedly makes a very hard bar, KOH may make a sifter one? Will try it out.

Thanks! No, I actually don't have that scale anymore, but it was just a wall-mounted scale. It ran by battery just like my other kitchen scales. It was kind of handy to have it on the wall, but I don't have a lot of wall space in my kitchen because it's filled with windows. The small space with the scale is really the only wall space there is, and it's right in the center of the room. So, when we remodeled, it didn't really look pretty enough for making holes in the new tiles and hanging it up again. I had had it for years and it was quite yellow and dingy looking. I now have a regular kitchen stored away in a drawer, but I do sometimes miss that scale.

@@Thethingswellmake Thank you for your answer, im new in soap making as a hobby and im little scared about the lye ect, and in don't know how to interpret the soapcalc.net calculator there are so many data and its very confusing with the lye ratio than the % and so on i don't know what to put in and how much, are you maybe making in the future a how to for this kind of calculater? 😊

@@WaschyNumber1 That's actually a great idea! Yesterday I began working on a post about lye, too- so maybe that will help you overcome some of the fear there. I'll try to finish it up and get it on the blog very soon!!

@@Thethingswellmake Thank you , thats very cool 😊

Kind of. 😜 I have melted some and it does melt quite well and much better than a "normal" bar of soap. Technically, it's supposed to be better as melt and pour if you use propylene glycol instead of alcohol as the solvent. I've never tried that, though. I don't normally melt mine, so I don't have a lot of experience with it, but... I did try so I could combine a couple of smaller bars, and it did work well.

This was made with beef tallow. If you want to use lard instead, you'd have to run the recipe through a lye calculator first to make sure the amount of lye (in this case KOH) doesn't change, but lard is also a good option for this sort of soap. :)

Oh, The Things We'll Make! Thanks :)

I just coat a bit of the mixture onto a clear glass and allow it to cool and harden. Because it's a thin layer, it will be more translucent than the final soap.

Thanks. 😊❤

Well, you can make the soap itself without the alcohol and the sugar and without heating it, but I'm not sure what would happen to it if you added the glycerin without heating it. You may end up with a soft bar of soap. I imagine that the heating would evaporate off a lot of the liquid. Perhaps you could try substituting some of the water with glycerine, but I'm not sure what the final product would be like. Also, this recipe was pretty exact- not a lot of excess oils (if any- I can't remember how, exactly, I calculated it.) because I didn't want the excess oils to affect the translucency. The glycerin would probably help make it less drying, but if you aren't wanting translucency anyway, you may want to consider superfatting the soap slightly. (You'd have to run the recipe through a lye calculator if you were wanting to do that.)

@@Thethingswellmake thank you for responding. I need some research on it.

I have a different recipe for a vegan glycerin soap. You can find it here: thethingswellmake.com/vegan-glycerin-soap/ Without the alcohol as a solvent, you probably won't end up with much translucency to the soap. You could try increasing the glycerin and sugar syrup to compensate, but I think the alcohol is the solvent that works best, so without it, the soap will be more opaque and more like a "normal" soap.

Soap alone is effective at rupturing and killing many types of bacteria and viruses. I personally avoid more potent antibacterial agents and don't know how you would add them.

In theory, it can be substituted with propylene glycol, but I've never tried it.

Hi Briana. It evaporates. It's being used as a solvent that removes part of the crystalline structure of the soap, which is what helps make it translucent. (It would otherwise be completely opaque like a "normal" soap.)

You can't really just substitute oils in a soap recipe without recalculating everything with a lye calculator. I do have a vegan glycerin soap recipe, though, if you prefer that: thethingswellmake.com/vegan-glycerin-soap/

@@Thethingswellmake Thanks 🙏

There are people who use soap for their hair. I personally don't because the pH of soap, in general, is too high for our hair. Mine is very sensitive to pH and dries out quickly if I use soap on it. If you've successfully used other soaps before on your hair, though, I don't see why not.

Hi. With this sort of soap you can really use any sort of colorant- they say even food coloring, but I haven't tried it- as long as you add it at the very end of the recipe after the full process is complete. (Normally you can't use them because the lye may throw off the colors.) This soap ends up darkening with time to an amber color, though, so that will definitely affect things and make it hard to get another color. I made a vegan version of this soap with only coconut and castor oil, though, and it turned out much lighter- white in color. The glycerin in this soap is used as one of the solvents (along with the alcohol and sugar syrup) to help dissolve away part of the crystalline structure and make a more translucent soap. (But, yes, glycerin will also be formed in the soap making process.)

I should add that I usually add some essential oils to my soaps at the very end too, but you can also use fragrance oils to add a scent of your choice.

Thanks.

You're welcome!

Because this is a hot process soap, the entire saponification process will have completed by the time the soap is poured in the molds, you "can" use it as soon as it hardens. That said, just like with any bar soap, it will improve in time and will benefit from a 1 month cure time.

You can mix some of the soap with distilled water and test the pH with strips, but, no, it won't be near neutral. All real soaps are on the alkaline side.

Thanks! Doesn't the pH change if you dilute an alkaline soap sample with neutral water? I know you can do some calculations if you know the amount of water and soap and you have 2 pH values, still it's a bit too much work for the poor soap.

You can't really take the pH of a bar soap without diluting it. I honestly don't bother with the pH of the soap, unless there is a specific reason- like the soap seems too harsh.

Hello! The alcohol is a solvent that helps dissolve away some of the crystalline structure of the soap, which is what makes it more translucent. You can make the soap without it, but it will be an opaque soap and won't look like the classic "glycerin soap." (Another alternative is propylene glycol, but it's more difficult to obtain and many people have sensitivities to it.) I have both grams and ounces in the recipe on the blog. It's originally written in grams, but there is a place under the ingredients to click on "convert units" which will show them in ounces too. You can find the full recipe here: thethingswellmake.com/homemade-glycerin-soap-recipe-from-scratch/ There is also a vegan version: thethingswellmake.com/vegan-glycerin-soap/

No. You can exchange the alcohol as a solvent for propylene glycol if you want to make a melt and pour base, but I haven't actually tried it.

Yes, of course! You can add essential oils or fragrance oils, stirring them into the soap mixture at the end before pouring the soap into the molds.

Well, it's really a bit of trial and error. I started by looking at the amounts used in similar recipes, and adjusted them. To be honest, I experiment and use a different amount each time to see if I can make a more translucent soap.

The recipe can be found here: thethingswellmake.com/homemade-glycerin-soap-recipe-from-scratch/ Any changes in the oils would have to be run through a lye calculator to make the recipe accurate again. Changes may affect the final soap properties too. (I haven't tried that change.) I do have a recipe for a vegan glycerin soap, though, if you prefer it. (It uses coconut oil.) thethingswellmake.com/vegan-glycerin-soap/

The alcohol serves as a solvent to remove part of the crystalline structure of the soap. That gives you a more translucent soap- more characteristic of glycerin-type soaps.

What stuff, specifically? Most can be found in the supermarket. Glycerin can be found in soap and cosmetic supply places online if you can't find it locally.

@@Thethingswellmake thanks for the answer :)

I think the tallow is what makes this yellow- and it eventually matures into an amber color. I have a vegan glycerin soap that stays white: thethingswellmake.com/vegan-glycerin-soap/

Most soaps are best using a mix of oils because they get the various properties of each oil. Here the castor oil works as another solvent. The solid fats are good for making a hard bar of soap and lots of lather. Each oil has different properties. You could try making one with just animal fats or only coconut oil, but you'd have to run it through a lye calculator to find how much lye you'd need for the changed recipe.

No. I'm afraid you can't make soap without lye. thethingswellmake.com/what-is-lye-can-i-make-soap-without-it/

I always link to the recipes in the descriptions of my video. In this case, you can find it here: thethingswellmake.com/homemade-glycerin-soap-recipe-from-scratch/

You could use propylene glycol as a solvent instead of the alcohol.

I think you should just miss the alcohol there, propylene glycol belongs to the same families of alcohol

You can use Sorbitol

It sets very quickly. I still allow it to set overnight before unmolding, but you can probably unmold quicker. Keep in mind that all bar soaps benefit from a cure time of several weeks to harden and improve lather. You can safely use them sooner than that, but they will improve with time.

The alcohol is used in this soap as a solvent that gives it a translucent type look. The only substitute I know of is propylene glycol, but I've never personally tried it as I prefer more natural ingredients.

Well, most of my soaps don't have added glycerin like this one- but glycerin is actually a byproduct of making soap, so really ALL soap will have some glycerin to a certain extent- whether it's enough to cause you a reaction is a different story. You can find my soap recipes here: thethingswellmake.com/category/make-it-yourself/soap/ I use glycerin to make my liquid soaps, but you can sub it out for water if you like.

No. The alcohol is used as a solvent to help take away part of the crystalline structure of the soap. That's what helps make it translucent. You cook the alcohol with the soap mixture, so most of it gets cooked off anyway. Using the soap is nothing like applying alcohol to your skin.

The full recipe and instructions can be found here with more of an explanation about why you are adding the alcohol and sugar: thethingswellmake.com/homemade-glycerin-soap-recipe-from-scratch/ The main concept, though, is that they are used as solvents to dissolve away part of the soap structure, making it more translucent. That's also shy you begin with a harder soap made with solid oils like tallow. You don't want to dissolve it away and make a soft bar of soap.

I always share the recipe link in the description. In this case, it can be found here: thethingswellmake.com/homemade-glycerin-soap-recipe-from-scratch/

You can definitely try it. You will still end up with soap- and probably a nice one. Yes, you will lose the translucency, and the texture may be a bit different. Without the sugar, it may also have less lather. I don't know, exactly, as I haven't tried it.

Oh, The Things We'll Make! thank you!

It may "weep" a bit of glycerin as it ages, but I don't fin this soap to feel sticky at all. It gives great lather, is hard, and is one of my favorites! Glycerin can make other cosmetics, like lotions, feel sticky, but I haven't found that to be the case in soaps.

@@Thethingswellmake thanks for your answer . Your soap receipes & processes are very helpful

I wish I had a better answer- but it's mostly trial and error. You can guess based on similar recipes and then tweak it for yours.

It's usually best to let all bar soaps cure for around a month before using them. This allows them to harden and for the crystalline structure of the soap to finish forming properly making for a better bar of soap. You can use it before then, but the soap will improve with the waiting period. (This particular soap will have finished its saponification process after having made it, so no lye will remain. It is safe to use immediately, but better with a curing period.)

The sugar syrup is used as one of the solvents to make the soap more translucent. It also may help increase the lather of the soap. ;) There's more detail in the recipe: thethingswellmake.com/homemade-glycerin-soap-recipe-from-scratch/

While it's safe to use immediately, I think all bar soaps benefit from a curing process of several weeks.