I am sure you'll do a great job on the unit and it will work well again. Merry Christmas to you and yours!

+gdavid Happy to have been of some help to you. If you can locate the part locally, it will be a very cheap repair.The part is only a doillar or so the lest I checked.

It was a complicated kinda build but the V4 was a good performance engine.

+Alberto Canepa So happy that Alberto. Many people have been able to get help through my video. I suspect you will also have great success. Please let meknow how you do. Again, thanks you and much luck to you Sir

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+Rich Myers So happy my video has saved you some cash. Good luck and happy riding.

So you used this exact part to repair your sensor? I have the same bike same issue I'm just double checking

Glad you enjoyed it. Thank you for watching and have a good day.

The bulb should light up if you turn on your key and touch the two wires of the sensor together. That will confirm that your light is not blown. Good luck with the repair...! Keep in touch!

Thank you Sir. Glad you liked it.

Thank you for the kind comment. I am always happy to hear that my videos are being helpful to others. It is a rwally cheap repair if you can find the thermistor.

@@Tobinindustrial they are sold at multiple places online, but I doubt I would have found one locally

@@Real_Wobbuffet You are better off with this tried and true repair.

Tom Batchelor As the thermistor warms up it will get brighter. The onset is a low light but as the fuel gets lower the thermistor gets warmer it will allow more voltage and the indicator will glow brighter. The thermistor must be set too low in your sensor probe. try moving it up to the top of the sensor tube. That way it will engage sooner.I am glad the repair is working somewhat. I'd would also wager a guess that the thermistor is probably falling just outside it's proposed speciication. Thanks for the comment.

Thanks

Looks like I forgot to tell you how it went, I was able to order the part and replace it as you said and it was wonderful to have a wonderful fuel light. Thanks again.

@@johnharra6846 That is great news John. Congratulations on an awesome repair job. Happy riding my brother.

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+VideoBoat2008 So glad the video was helpful to you. Keep me posted.

That is a great idea. Thanks for the commment.

I am so happy you got it to work. That is awesome news. Enjoy the ride my friend. I am without a motorcycle at this time but my heart is yearning for a ride some day in the future. All the best to you and God bless.

As an qualified tehnician i aprove this comment!

I am glad it was helpful to you.

Good luck with the repair my brother. I have heard this worked for many other fuel sensors so you may be in luck.

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Very happy that this video has helped you. I never realized the cross reference potential to other vehicles notwithstanding, motorcycles. Congratulations on getting your low fuel light working again.

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No the V30 only has a warning low fuel light. It most certainly is a common system for most low fuel sensor systems. It is a simple yet effective repair and that very cheap thermistor plays an integral role. I couldn't believe how simple this unit system was designed. I do agree with the simplicity though. This is how any component system should work... as simply as possible without any disregard for that system 's integrity. Good luck with the repair. Keep me posted.

I ordered my part from www.newark.com The information on where and what you need is in the video. You may find that part elsewhere.

If you buy the proper part and install it correctly, it should work just fine.

ordered part from digikey, everything works perfectly!! thanks a lot!!!

Good for you. Ride On! Thanks for watching and supporting my channel.

Its a 1kohm one right

Tom Batchelor Sounds like a bad thermistor. I have since ordered more and repaired two more units and they work great. Is you motorcycle the same? I am wandering if there is any other variables to your repair as compared to mine.

Honda always made a great bike. Interesting story though. HAHAHA.

@@Tobinindustrial Allways i want to try ride on Boldor 6 cylinder ... and CR500 .. But never try .. life rat race

@@RadioMalopolska That's a lot of motor my friend.

It is highly likely that this part will work. The fuel temperatures and ambient air temperature in an enclosed unit like this will be the same. Also, the electrical system is identical (12 volts DC) if the setup has a tube emersion in fuel and a 12 volt wire in parallel with this thermistor then this would have to work. There are only three conditions to make this work. 1.) fuel emersion to keep thermistor cold and open. 2.) Fuel level ability to drop at a set point to allow the thermistor to be exposed to ambient outside air temperature and cause warm up and the closing of the circuit. 3.) Presence of 12 DC voltage to activate the fuel low level light. Once the thermistor closes the circuit and the voltage is allowed to flow through. Just know that the thermistor will restrict the full voltage until it reaches a proper temperature. That is why the light will only glow dimly at first and gradually illuminate fully once it warms and no fuel splashes up on it to cool it off. Also, just keep in mind that this reserve setup is only going to give you an estimation of distance to empty. Good luck with your repair.

gasdude66 The fuel will keep the thermister cooler. once it is exposed to air it warms up and creates contact. Perhaps your circutry is f=different or there is different voltages. It works well on the original magna fuel system. There may be differences in systems of other motorcycles.

Thanks for the information. I suspect the one I listed would work as biking weather is somewhere above the freezing mark. I was unaware of the other thermistor listing. I am thinking the ones you reference may be quicker at giving a true reading perhaps. Thanks for your valued comment and information. Very interesting stuff.

@@Tobinindustrial I got the thermistor replaced and it seems to be working as it should. Time will tell. Not the cleanest install but the best I could do. I chickened out and just used the one you mentioned. I didnt want to do it twice. Thanks!

I ordered them from NEWARK.

I think it will be fine as long as it don't short out. Good luck.

If the value of the thermister was changing in value, it would definitely increase, or in your case, decrease the voltage getting to the bulb. It is possible that the low voltage is not enough to illuminate the LED. I could see that happening. I'd suggest running a test bulb by tapping the thermister wiring that deals with the bulb and ground and see if you can get the regular bulb to work. If it is still low, then the thermister is suspect and may need to be changed out. I think the value of thermister I used will work fine. Regular bulbs will dim over time but by the time they dim enough to really notice, they have already typically failed. Perhaps your bulbs were just fortunate enough to go an extra distance in your case. So, to conclude, I'd just put another bulb somewhere else on the bike and see if illumination works effectively and tells you you are low on fuel. Then, go back and replace that low fuel bulb with a regular one or an LED that may be built to work at lower voltage??? Be sure to test in circuit before doing a pro swap out... Not sure if that LED exists. Check it out with a local tech guy... If that is not functional, then have a look at the low fuel sensor. I hope that is helpful to you. God bless...

@@Tobinindustrial Thanks very much, I'll go that way. Keep safe sir.

Thinking about it, could the culprit be the fact that, unlike candescent bulbs, and LED does not pass ANY current when unlit, to the thermistor? So with an 'open' circuit, the whole thing is dead in its tracks, maybe?

Could be. I know LED's need much less voltage to operate. That is why they have resistors added most times to reduce the 12 volt power down. perhaps the 12 volts direct may be killing the lamp as well.

@@Tobinindustrial Thanks!

You're welcome!

​​​@@TobinindustrialRight On.. tried the jumper cable and boom light! Ordered as close a sensor I could find for my 84 Shadow VT750C as I could do here's hoping! Go 🇨🇦 lol

Tom Batchelor Agreed. I have had at least 12 posts and emails stating my video solved a person's low fuel sensor problem. It even worked on a totally different kind of cycle I recall. I am really stumped as two thermistors being bad is not so common. Did you order from a reputable company like Newark? I've had loads of issues with electronic parts from not so reputable Chinese ebay con artists. I only buy from three companies in China and Hong Kong now as they have good quality parts Please keep me posted on any developments.

Here is the Newark page listing the part. There is a technical data sheet available for the thermister on that page. It is in PDF format so you will need Adobe PDF to open the data sheet canada.newark.com/amphenol-advanced-sensors/rl2004-582-97-d1/ntc-thermistor/dp/20F735

Beta Value (K): 3972K No. of Pins: 2 Operating Temperature Max: 150°C Operating Temperature Min: -50°C Resistance: 1kohm SVHC: No SVHC (16-Dec-2013) Thermistor Case Style: Radial Leaded Thermistor Tolerance: -2% to +2% Thermistor Type: NTC

Andy Tobin thank you ...thank you !!!

Does your bulb work. It may be blown. Check the wiring to ensure that there is no broken wires on that circuit. Make sure the thermister is functioning. If you bridge the two terminals on the thermister the light should come on. That "may" indicate that the thermister part itself has failed.

Thanks.

It can be done but the thermistor must not ground out. maybe block it in with wood or another piece of plastic. I am sure you could figure it out my friend. God bless.

Possible. Check continuity of the two terminals. Here should be no or a very low reading.that thermistor needs to stay floating in that shaft and not touching any metal except in the end and the wire at the top end.

Hey Andy. I have an extra thermistor here somewhere's that is from the original purchase. I never bothered to repair any more of the sensor units. I can do a test sometime and see what the readings are. Perhaps a live video showing the readings will be best. Question: Did you test the unit in the circuit? Fuel has a very low ambient temp so if you try it with water or in open air the thermistor will not show proper functionality. Put it into the reserve tank and have it in a tested in real condition with the fuel low enough to allow the thermistor to be totally exposed to air. It may be another issue if the part is within spec. Let me know and we will take it from there. Is your bulb working? Wiring good. This thermister wiring basically allows 12 volts to run to the low fuel bulb. Very basic system.If bulb and connecting wires to unit causes the light to come on then we have issue with grounding or part failure or part out of spec.

Hi Andy , thank you for replying so quickly . yes i put the unit back in to the bike with and without fuel , i also ran the fuel out of the tank as it was switched on but nothing i did this with both thermisters , the bulb is working fine , it comes on when you turn the key then goes out as it should ,it also lights up when both wires are shorted together . i cant think of what else it could be , if you do a video of a volt test of one that you know is working then that would really help, i do have 3 more thermistors but reluctant to try the others just yet .

OK Andy, now do you want a 12 volt in line reading or just a resistance reading? I am not a technician and I just have basic understandings of electronics but I will try and help. I will do a brief video and see what I can glean from the circuit for you. The thermister basically is cooled by the fuel and the circuit remains open. Once the thermister is in ambient air and not cooled by fuel, the thermister close it's micro circuit and power is allowed to flow inline to the low fuel bulb. I did also verify that Newark is using another brand of thermister (Amphenol should be a superior quality product in my opinion) let me know what specific readings you would like me to demonstrate.

i'm not sure what would be the best reading ether so both would be great so i can copy the exact settings you use on my tester and see if both readings are the same ,

Here is the video for your reference. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/oLpxhLullpy2dGQ.html

Yes it goes inside the tube my friend. If possible, buy another thermistor. make sure to get the exact one that I reference and be sure it is for the same wiring harness as the 1982 - 1984 Honda Magna or similar harness with same DC reading when in circuit.

sorry, but I know it goes inside the tube: what temperature reach the termistore when is inside the tube but out the fuel to lamp the bulb? in other videos the termistore is 470 ohm: how test the original if is broken? have you a data sheet for vf 750 C RC09 to be sure? Please, help me!! I need a very specific tip...... thanks.

Sorry, I have no data sheet for the VF750. I suspect that once the thermistor is in circuit that the bulb will absorb the heat and the unit just becomes a switch to show low fuel once it warms up. You need to replace the thermistor with the same value as what was in your sensor. I regret not having that specific information for you.

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This is a very, simple circuit. Touching the two terminals together will show that the low fuel bulb is blown or good. if the wiring and bulb are good it will light up. Beyond that if the wiring is good and the connectors and bulb are good, then the only component that can be in failure is the thermister. You need not try and send DC voltage through it but just so you know, this wire, once the circuit is closed gets whatever the battery and the charging system is putting out which is approximately 14.5 volts. If the bulb comes on and does not go out then there is a closed failure of the thermister or there is wiring causing contact and allowing voltage to get to the light in the dash. I hope that is helpful to you. Thanks for watching my video and God bless you.

Thank you for replying. Yes, it was simpler than I imagined. I did test other plug end with jumper wire and bulb lit up. So it is thermister. I found whole device on ebay. If its bad Ill have 2 to repair :) Subscribed

@@RJSoftware2000 Great news. Congratulations. God bless you.

No, it is strictly an electrical signal to engage the low fuel light.

@@Tobinindustrial thanks. both quit working. got a used one coming from ebay. probably should have bought a new one. we'll see

@@dennytuma The thermister repair I describe works very well. Good luck with your repair my friend.

+Jorge Colon If you read the older posts you will see another instant whereby this repair seemed to not work. I cannot explain the issue but it may either be a faulty thermistor or perhaps a wire is broken, bulb blown, grounding issue or improper installation of the thermistor. Also, fuel as you may know, will cool the thermistor more than say water or ambient environmental temperature. The thermistor will not seem to work properly in an open circuit if not in gas. If you purchased the proper thermistor then it will need the properties of liquid fuel (Gasoline) to open its micro circuit and, thus, not allowing the 12 volt current to pass through the thermistor and thru the wire to power up the dash bulb "low fuel" indicator. Beyond this, I am unable to determine your issue but I suggest you not give up and continue with help if necessary to remedy the problem. Good luck and keep me posted

+Andy Tobin, you are absolutely correct, I thought that it would work if I just installed the sensor without gas in the tank. Not case, After filling the auxiliary tank with gas about half way and letting it run a bit, the low fuel light turned on. Thank you so much for the help. I do appreciate it.

S0 glad it finally worked for you. The fuel is a key agent to get this thermistor to the proper operating range. Asd you may have experienced, when you dip a finger in fuel itn has a drastic cooling effect. That is the environment that the thermistor needs to get into the circuit to open circuit range. Happy riding my friend. Oh, and I forgot to mention that where you strategically place the thermistor in the tube effects when the light wil come on. Not by a lot but putting it asx high as you can in the tube will give you earlier low fuel warning. I placed mine at the center. Just an extra bit of information for you there. Again, I am so happy that it worked out for you

No, I do repairs though

I got the part from www.newark.com

Andy Tobin thanks andy just checked there web site there they are wanting £15.95 POSTAGE TO ME AT NORTHERN IRELAND UK. for a 1doller piece. i bought a 2nd hand sensor of ebay fitted it yesterday and working fine but just came accross your video so was wanting to fix old sensor for spare . thanks anyway

Yeah. It cost me only a couple of dollars for the part and $20.00 for shipping. A common envelope and stamp would suffice and the cost would have been about $6.00 total for two pieces shipped by letter envelope. I am sure there are places in the UK that stock a suitable part. Just reference the values of the part and cross reference it.

Andy Tobin yes andy i have been trying over here in the uk for the part . going to maplin today to see as i can see they have the parts on there web site but cant work out the difference in them www.maplin.co.uk/search?text=THERMISTOR+&x=16&y=17 maybe if u have a bit of time would u take a look and let me know thanks andy

My only other suggestion is to find somebody trustworthy enough to drop by such a shop and pick up the parts and ship by a common letter envelope. The bloody parts are shipped in a big envelope sized 10 inches by 14 inches and padded. It is bizarre but that is their only tracking method I guess. Sadly, it makes it a deal breaker unless you are truly desperate for the parts. The postal system worldwide needs an overhaul. China can ship for free on most items and we have to pay through the nose.... No wander our economies are struggling most time. goods and services need to flow freely and be less hindered by monetary grab options. That's my rant for today! Good luck with your quest Sir!

Thanks.

Not sure... just google the part reference number and see if it gives that info.

1K

cool. Good to know

No, the 12 volt current runs through it but the cooling effect of the gasoline does not allow the thermistor to get warm thru voltage/current running thru it so it stays open. When the fuel drops below the thermistor level, it allows the thermistor to warm up and make contact and, thus, allowing voltage / current through and the bulb lights. As the thermistor begins to warm the voltage gradually invreases and the bulb gradually gets brighter. No computer needed in this setup, just battery voltage. Hope this helps.

Thanks for the quick reply. Do you have the part number and years for this . Is it the standard wire from battery to switch to linght set up? I have spent days looking for something like this so I really appreciate your help!

The thermistor info is in the video. As for the hook up, remember that you need this thermistor in the lower part of the tank or reserve tank I would say. That may be your problem. The thermistor must be in gas up until the lat 1/10 of the tank. Mine is self contained in a unit that screws into the reserve tank. Having 12 volt wires inside gas is a "no no" as it will cause an explosion. I am not able to offer you much more on how you can set up this system but all I know is that it is wired in series with a bulb and as the thermistor warms up when out of the fuel, it allows the voltage to creep up bit by bit until the thermistor is warm and the connection is 100% and 12 volts going to the bulb. Think of the thermistor as a thermostat that is cooled by fuel. when it warms up it gradually allows current to flow until it is fully closed and full power is running. Hope this helps....!

Thanks. I was going to instalk one down low like a pepcock. This basically operated the same as a simple neutral saftlt switch but with heat instead of contact. The reason I ask the years that have these is I'm deaf and can't hear your video to hear that info. My bike doesn't have a thermistor or gas gauge at all. Thats why I am looking for something like this so I can finally have a warning due to walking a couple times since milage is always inaccurate based of driving conditions. Anyways thanks for all the info so far and the time u spent to answer me back

OK, it is a 1984 Honda Magna V30 but the 45 and 65 have the same system I think. You'll need a light in the dash or somewhere. The thirmistor must lose the cooling effect of the fuel at the lower part of the tank. Putting in a lower small tank will suffice. This unit that I piut the thermistor is still available at Honda and is used on newer bikes I am sure. The honda dealership may be of great assistance in that area. You'll need to cut the live wire (12+ voly and put clips on the end and run it exterior to the fuel so it does not cause spark. One clip essentially connects to one end of the thermistor and the other end on the other side. The heated thermistor will simulate the wire being reconnected and allowing the bulb in dash to light up. A very simple technology thanks to the properties of the thermistor once out of the fuel! the current causes it to heat up and connect. The fuel keeps it cool so it does not make connection.... Simple yet functional. Ask away if you have any further questions.

Marco Leguizamo The sensor is located under the seat of the Honda Magna. It is inserted in the top and side of the fuel reserve tank. It has two wires that can be unclipped and it unscrews from the reserve tank. I hope this helps.

Hey thankyou this really helped lol thanks

azone123465 Tobin is a good Irish Surname. I was born and raised in NL, Canada. I am also a Mi'Kmaq First Nations native.

Send me the link on the one that fits a Honda Magna V30. That would be really awesome as I would also like to get one for my 2004 Yamaha V Star Silverado that only has a reserve knob. No light, no gauge... Nothing to warn you that you a are low on fuel so you got to remember to turn reserve off or you'll really be out of fuel. If these floats exist, I would love to get one. Thanks for watching and for your comment.

Thanks for the information on the fan switch. The Fan switch in mine switches the fan on at too high a temp in my opinion. I will look into the replacement switch. BTW, I got that thermister from Newark. It is readily available there just be sure to order the specific one I mention in the video

Andy Tobin Thanks Andy. I just ordered a few (in case I mess up two). I researched many fan switches and the one I ordered and installed works good. The fan kicks on when the needle is in the mid-range of the gauge. The pins however are spaced slightly farther than the factory version but it works and the plug fits (you might need to finesse a little). I thought about looking for a lower close temp setting but I thought that staying with original specs is probably best.

Andy Tobin I forgot to ask, is it necessary to ensure the bulb of the thermistor is not contacting the wall of the probe or can?

I was able to insert it without it touching but I think it may work anyway. just so you know, you can see if it is touching and move it and solder the wires tight and firm so that the thermister stays put. Good luck with the repair.

Andy Tobin I ordered 3 thermistors just in case one or two were bad. However upon testing, all three are either bad or their rating is not right for this application. I did a bench test using ice water to simulate the gas and then removed the thermistor from the liquid into the air. The resistance went from 2.5k to 1k ohms (70°F room air temp) . I then went outside near the bike and repeated the tests with the air temp around 66°F. Apparently the resistance is still too high for the circuit to be complete (light didn't illuminate). However when short wires, light illuminates indicating system functions correctly on bike. I believe the resistance needs to be no more than 100 ohms prefer less. Are you sure this thermistor, SKU# 20F735 is the right spec? Have you tested this on the bike? Am I doing something wrong? I haven't yet assembled the probe with the replacement thermistor and reinstalled into the bike to verify it functions correctly because preliminary tests indicate it simply will not work. Any suggestions?

Hello. Search for the Thermistor SOF735. I got mine at www.newark.com. Let me know if you need more information. Good luck

hello friend'm not thinking through this code that you gave me (Thermistor SOF735) have any other to do the same job ?? and he has next to be welded ??

In the video there is all the reference informationI have..I will see about a link for you

20F735...Sorry I referenced the wrong part.here is the link of the part. www.newark.com/amphenol-advanced-sensors/rl2004-582-97-d1/ntc-thermistor/dp/20F735?ost=thermistor+20F735&selectedCategoryId=&categoryNameResp=All%2BCategories&searchView=table&iscrfnonsku=false

I bought the thermistor at "Newark" To test is simple. While this unit is cooled as it is submerged in gas in the resovoir tank it does not make contact or continuity. If the unit is removed from your bike then if you test the connections for continuity, it should give no reading if gone bad and a reading if good. it is a current path basically and the heated thermistor when not in gas to cool it will cause it to short or make a current path so power is allowed to pass to the bulb. A very simple but effective system. Hope this helps you. Let me know if you need any further information and I will try and help.

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I referenced the electronic part I used that is recommended. If what you have listed here is compatible then it should work.

RIP Mark

Thanks for that information John. Do I remember you from my eBay Motorcycle days? I think I bought some motorcycle parts from you some years ago??? I have a contact/seller on eBay who's name was John Connolly.

@@Tobinindustrial I found out by accident they are the same. But no I haven't sold anything on eBay . Oddly enough my name is more common than you might think lol

It has everything to do with the ambient temperature of that thermistor If I understand correctly. The fuel keeps the thermistor well below the point where it makes continuity. It is probable that the cool temperatures are keeping the thermistor cool enough to "resist" of the voltage to the bulb. To verify, try bringing your bike to a garage or place that is much warmer and see if the light glows brighter. I'd say your suspicions are pretty accurate. Happy New Year!

@@Tobinindustrial figured I'd leave a reply to help anyone else out. I ended up checking battery voltage. 11.75 with key on and lights running. I went out and started the bike up with the new thermistor and it took a solid 3 minutes or so and the light came on at the proper brightness! Checked batter voltage while running and im at about 13.8-14.0. I belive my problem was simply that the battery voltage was to low. Low battery voltage combined with 20°f temperature meant this thing couldn't get to its target temperature, atleast anytime soon. Thanks for the help, and Happy New Years to you!

@@Crozier4582 you nailed it Sir. Congratulations on the solving of this problem. All the best to you and may God bless you and yours.