How a Suit Jacket Should Fit

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2 жыл бұрын

If you want to know how to properly wear a suit and how to look good in a suit, avoid these common suit mistakes. Here, we're talking about how a suit jacket should fit, including suit jacket length, sleeve length, and more.
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Пікірлер: 210

@eatpeach2355 2 жыл бұрын

I would recommend trying the suits in different body positions before you buy them. Most people talk about how a suit should fit when you stand upright. BUT, most of the day you'll be sitting or walking and doing some other stuff.

@georgiosyiannakou5537 2 жыл бұрын

Good point!

@jesushentaichrist5729 Жыл бұрын

get your suits tailored instead.

@slevig415 Жыл бұрын

@@jesushentaichrist5729 He's literally talking about tailored suits? lol

@jesushentaichrist5729 Жыл бұрын

@@slevig415 "I would recommend trying the suit in different body positions before you buy them". Read this line carefully, he's obviously talking about readymade suits off the shelf.

@slevig415 Жыл бұрын

@@jesushentaichrist5729 No, no he isn’t lol he’s definitely talking about made to order or bespoke

@boa4533 2 жыл бұрын

Just what i need for my wedding suit. Thank you.

@Chakawatever Жыл бұрын

I’ve made 1000’s of suits. The things most humans ask for is a “normal” fit. These are characteristics for a “normal” suit look. Of course, style is a preference that can refined as you obtain more and more suits. As you wear them to work, weddings, funerals, and nights out. A suit is like a car, and no two cars you own have to be exactly the same. Some cars are fast with a drop top, and others are for commuting with the family. Break the rules if you prefer a longer sleeve length because you like to drive with your jacket on or if you prefer a shorter length to showcase your watches/ jewelry. The spirit of your suit lives in your preferences, not the old rules that have governed suiting for centuries

@hemigod2 Жыл бұрын

I follow this Gentleman because for the most part he is a cookie cut out symbol of a man in a suit and he’s not snobbish . Very down to Earth and he for the most part is helping the beginners. I cherish that you have also have added some Gems of knowledge and with that being said , I have one suit Jacket (Surgeons cuff’s ) where I deliberately left the sleeves longer than my finger tips extended. I like to wear this one completely in bottomed and folded back sort of resembling the sleeve of an old 17th century Frock and It is always complimented ;-). Please keep suiting us up sir

@rajibpradhanjoshi1866 Жыл бұрын

Bro can we increase the length of coat?. 🥲 I've made a coat but it's short.. I'm worried😥 wasted😔😩 of money😞 it cost 7000+ INR.. 😞😞😞

@Chakawatever Жыл бұрын

@@rajibpradhanjoshi1866 the suit should look balance on your body.. if your jacket length is let’s say 30” .. then try shortening your pant length to match the top (clean break).. a short jacket length is modern for sure… unfortunately lengthening isn’t something you can typically do

@hemigod2 Жыл бұрын

@@rajibpradhanjoshi1866 you can so long as there is enough reserved fabric in the seams that won’t alter the shape once done. As a sartorial it’s is always best to have a lot of reserve in all bottom points of a fit especially pant legs and extra extra there.

@ianlaccohee7180 10 ай бұрын

I’m glad to see a professional tailor comment on sleeve length. I get frowned upon every time I ask for slightly longer sleeves.

@isoboy1000 3 ай бұрын

When coming to the jacket length i have a different take. On an average person yes you can use your hands but some people have longer arms and some have shorter arms, a tailor told me that to go over that you rather use a 50/50 measurements (you should measure from the base of your neck to the helm of your pants, then divide into 2 that will be the right length of the jacket)

@hassturk9189 2 жыл бұрын

I like your videos ,The way you talking and the valuable points. Wish you all the best.

@hespokestyle Жыл бұрын

Thank you!

@CheckYourPremises 2 жыл бұрын

Very informative short video

@hespokestyle 2 жыл бұрын

Glad it was helpful!

@xxmrrickxx 7 ай бұрын

Awesome info. I found info about getting the measurements but this is what I needed about how it should look in the end. I am tall with broad shoulders and a thin torso and I never liked the "look" of my measured size. Going a size smaller in the chest gets me closer to the look described here and gets me away from the 80's oversized shoulder look, haha.

@kenneth7826 Жыл бұрын

As always informative advice..happy new year 2023 to you...peace

@hespokestyle Жыл бұрын

Same to you!

@penguin_edits Жыл бұрын

like these short reels rather than watching a two video series from gent gazette, thanks

@hespokestyle Жыл бұрын

Glad you like them!

@gordon_velupillai 10 ай бұрын

Thanks been looking through your vids to find this info

@b.vonschnauser207 Жыл бұрын

Thank you for civilized tips....subscribed

@hespokestyle Жыл бұрын

Welcome!

@richardtemple9292 Жыл бұрын

Thank you sir, I’m going to a bunch of weddings in the next couple of months and am looking for fitted suits!

@I_S2_I 2 жыл бұрын

Great advice that every man should know. 👍🏽

@hespokestyle Жыл бұрын

🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻

@allenmontalvo8355 9 ай бұрын

Thanks 🙏 for the advice. 😊

@richardDara-ot9zp Ай бұрын

I'm 45 now and I've never worn a suit for nice occasions although I've always wanted to and I am about to buy my first suit, my question is, so it's only the top button necessary to button and not both? And I should take my coat off when I'm driving and hang it? Because that's what I plan on doing when I drive or travel in a plane. Forgive my ignorance to this

@dabo5078 Ай бұрын

2 button jacket the top. 3 button jackets, middle. Generally based on how high or low your buttons are located this could change. But the rule for most single breasted suits is that you button the button-hole just right above your belly button/navel. Also, do not button your jacket when sitting down for single-breasted suits. Other then that wear it when it is comfortable (it could get quite cold on flights so personally I would wear the jacket). Remember a well fitted and made suit is also meant to be very comfortable and offer you a good degree of flexibility and movement. If you feel restricted significantly, especially in the arms that suit is not well made or fitted correctly. Finally, depending on your use case if you don't expect to be in serious business setting all the time consider looking into getting a sport coat. There you can find bolder colours, textures and patterns to make your personal stylistic statement.

@CryingJackal 2 жыл бұрын

Needed this so I can make a suit jacket

@hespokestyle 2 жыл бұрын

Awesome.

@akolmoses7677 6 ай бұрын

Thanks dear

@nobel87able 3 ай бұрын

Thank you so much sir. Now all that i observed make sense. I'm going to invest in suit! I used to afraid because.. Well i either get a lose and comfy but look silly or "fit" But i either can't sit or move around😂.

@josephinebrown6631 11 ай бұрын

Thank you kindly🤍

@haroldconner2645 Жыл бұрын

Thank you

@shamkumar29 9 ай бұрын

Thanks and blessings 🙌

@bluephoenix1357 2 жыл бұрын

The jacket length - I think it's better if you follow the 1:1 Ratio. If you're shorter, then choose or commission a shorter jacket.

@jens1898 2 жыл бұрын

thats right!

@hespokestyle 2 жыл бұрын

Thanks for chiming in.

@dileepdoingthings4197 Жыл бұрын

Im saving all thos so when i get some dough and am important enough id show all these to tailor

@lukeserrano62 Жыл бұрын

Hey Brian, I don’t think you need to challenge all the folk who are saying your suit is too tight/too baggy, your advice too vague/too specific. Guys like us who have followed you for years and benefited from your advice and ideas like your style. Keep groovin’ and never mind the passing haters.

@Observateur1281 Жыл бұрын

Franchement, j’aime ce Monsieur pour son élégance !!!

@wiiliamgarwood2158 Жыл бұрын

Spot on .

@sloboat55 4 ай бұрын

Excellent

@massoudzahedi Жыл бұрын

Very interesting ❤❤❤

@ronm6585 2 жыл бұрын

Thank you.

@hespokestyle Жыл бұрын

You're welcome!

@aajajkhan9697 8 ай бұрын

I will make the blazer when I get it.

@l00tur 4 ай бұрын

I know this is an older video but I’d love to at least get a quick opinion on the J.Crew Ludlow. I still think it’s one of the best options for the money, but I have noticed that J.Crew has fallen off over the years. I’ve tried Brooks Brothers and outside of some nicer stitching, it was about the same as the LudLow. Thanks for your content!

@IndoraptorGojirainfinityKnox14 9 ай бұрын

Reminds of the series as well Suits 🤝 Harvey Specter and Mike Ross

@josephphoenix1376 2 ай бұрын

YES!

@madaan1279 Жыл бұрын

Sir, you make me sense...

@ana419 2 ай бұрын

Great tips! Would these same rules apply to women's suit jackets?

@akramrehmani4441 2 жыл бұрын

Excellent 👍

@hespokestyle Жыл бұрын

Thank you! Cheers!

@liamdiller2248 7 ай бұрын

Can you elaborate on which body types should get the 4x1, 4x2, 6x1, and 6x2, please? That‘d be greatly appreciated! (I'm 5’9, 126 lbs)

@dramaticarmy1272 10 ай бұрын

I got it after trying it in different body postions it's good in fit and look but it's stretchy in underarm while folding hand and raising my hand what should I do ?

@georgiosyiannakou5537 2 жыл бұрын

Great informative video! On the shirt and suit jacket length difference, how many cm or inches do you recommend?

@hespokestyle 2 жыл бұрын

Thanks. That’s subjective but generally 1/2” to 1” is acceptable.

@kirankurwade 10 ай бұрын

Superb

@danlightened 10 ай бұрын

Damn, that's a gorgeous suit!

@MrMemfys 2 күн бұрын

Fit is king. Thats mean you should be fit and shredded af to look good in suit

@mikegreene8461 Жыл бұрын

Tie clip

@SK-xx3ls 6 ай бұрын

What does Seam the shoulder should be just before the arm starts to breakdown mean??

@diegotc1784 18 күн бұрын

What’s this suit brand? Looks beautiful

@charlesmcdermott6139 2 жыл бұрын

What do you think of these suits that look like you pulled the jacket from you little brother’s closet and the pants have belts riding on the pubic bone? They wreceverywhere and particularly on tv. Usually the dirt and bottom of the tie are exposed below the jacket buttons.

@pvp6077 9 ай бұрын

That's a current trend, and it's an exaggerated Continental cut. The Continental cut is a European style which has the suit hug the body and is very popular for showing off your shape, whether you're slender or muscular. A lot of guys like that it shows off their muscles, however much they've got. Makes all that time in the gym worth it. The American cut (what this guy is wearing, also known as a "lounge suit", popularized in the 50s-60s) is for more medium sized guys or guys who want to look a little broader or hide their shape a little more. It just makes guys look more "medium" in general, neither large nor small, and it looks fine on guys of any height. Standard business suit. And an English Drape cut is better for bigger, taller, more muscular, or just generally larger guys who don't like suits feeling tight and want a looser fit but a traditional style. It feels like the sweatpants of the suit world, but makes you look either old money, or like an old timey mafia guy.

@minehere158 4 ай бұрын

So, everywhere says 'you need to try it standing'. I can't stand, legs don't work. How do I know the fit from only sitting?

@missakaiddamalgoda1879 Жыл бұрын

I have a question. My arms are comparativly longer for my build. My tailor said if we make the jacket length as my fingers touch them. The jacket would look very out of proportion as it will be really long. So he suggested that we make it end at the rise of the trouser. Then it will be about 5 inches shorter than the fit for my fist length. Is it ok to do so? Will it be abnormal?

@brookvalley907 2 жыл бұрын

Fantastic info. Like the way you're showing just the right amount of cuff. Perhaps you could give advice in the future on shirt sleeve length, if you haven't already. If the length seems a little long to me, I sometimes button the second button on the cuff to make it tighter.

@hespokestyle 2 жыл бұрын

It's very subjective. 1/2" to 1" is generally acceptable.

@brookvalley907 2 жыл бұрын

@@hespokestyle thank you. I'm embarrassed that I didn't know that.

@lolvonlolipopp 2 жыл бұрын

Shirt sleeve length is almost always irrelevant since the cuff should sit at your thumb bone. If the cuff goes beyond that point the cuff is just not tight enough. Just make sure the sleeve length isn't too short.

@brookvalley907 2 жыл бұрын

@@lolvonlolipopp good point

@Iamsujant 2 жыл бұрын

Read The Articles on his Website Guys!

@hespokestyle 2 жыл бұрын

Cheers.

@neddoh4300 Жыл бұрын

Thanks for this excellent information. One question though, why do I see people in advertising and online ads that show male wearing suits that are or at least look like they’re one size smaller than they should be?

@thefonzkiss 4 ай бұрын

Because it looks more athletic and tapered. See Daniel Craig’s suits in his last four movies. It doesn’t make it correct though.

@mayankexodus 3 ай бұрын

Now that is a perfect tie knot. No point wearing a great suit with an asymmetric amateur knot.

@HeADSH0Ts1 2 жыл бұрын

Is there a way to avoid suit divots?

@hespokestyle 2 жыл бұрын

Yes. The shoulders need to be right. The sleeve width needs to be right. The suit should be adjusted for your posture. Custom is the best way.

@youtubelearning2990 8 ай бұрын

I wish I would’ve saw these videos before I bought my suit. I went to a local tailor in town and my suit is all messed up. It doesn’t feel comfortable at all. Unfortunately, it came down to the wire and so I had to go to a wedding with that suit. A very costly mistake.

@YA-qg5hh Жыл бұрын

I find that American suit jackets are too long, italian is closer to my taste, curious to hear your thoughts on this.

@three6620 9 ай бұрын

now this guy knows suits

@user-dx8zk5op2c 2 жыл бұрын

Hey Brian, how come you don’t really wear tie clips? Are they not what you prefer or have occasions where it is appropriate ?

@tigreonice2339 10 ай бұрын

Do all the suits have little freedom of movement in the arms, like the armpits level stuck together? For example, you can't move the arms to the sides at 90 degrees with your body without the whole suit rising... on the contrary, as if you can with a shirt and t-shirt..... please help

@asacco2698 Жыл бұрын

Beware jackets that don't sit flat behind the upper back with too much material bulging out .. sometimes that can be fixed by asking the tailor to lower the collar

@hespokestyle Жыл бұрын

That's right. Called a collar gap. I've got a complete fit video here: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/jLdipMdolrCloas.html

@lookonyourheadbuilding3782 4 ай бұрын

I can say that man in the grey tight jacket is Daniel Craig ❤

@michaelmarando Жыл бұрын

What’s the best way to wear corduroyed suit jacket?

@Secretname951 4 ай бұрын

Isn’t your lapel a little buckled and isn’t there a little too much strain on the button?

@fuad-77 4 ай бұрын

What is the fabric of Your suits in this video

@fakhrulislamjewel7120 9 ай бұрын

What is that stripe called?

@guillermoisamit7784 2 жыл бұрын

Suits ties mens ties excelent

@DylanSchopmann Жыл бұрын

How would you fit someone who’s arms are contracted so the straightest they can go is roughly 45 degrees?

@ashar932 Жыл бұрын

How to style a pocket square appropriately?

@mirajdhungana2366 Жыл бұрын

i am listening to what this guy has to say

@magoo161 Жыл бұрын

I dislike the advice about jacket length as different arm and torso lengths make the knuckle method inaccurate for many. A better point of reference is whether or not your jacket covers the seat of your pants when standing.

@finalbattle777 Жыл бұрын

Nice advice! but you missed out on how your suit sleeve length should allow about an inch to half an inch of shirt to show. What shirt you wear matters, and affects the length of suit sleeves

@kirkdarling4120 Жыл бұрын

Place your suit length at the wrist bone and tailor the shirts to show as much cuff as you want. Let the jacket sleeve length control the shirt sleeve length, not the other way around.

@saidbakr Жыл бұрын

This video need comparison scenes

@abdullahalmosalami2373 5 ай бұрын

I disagree with the length being where your fingers curl. It should be based on the proportion of your total height vs the jacket length, and 2:1 seems reasonable to me.

@ArmandoLopezRepairs 10 ай бұрын

145

@ianlaccohee7180 10 ай бұрын

I know about jacket sleeve length, because the guy I deal with where I buy most of my clothes gets really upset when I ask for the sleeves to be a made bit longer. Sorry, but I just don’t like how they feel otherwise.

@MikeyKelly 2 ай бұрын

👍🏻

@glendavis1266 6 ай бұрын

You missed the back of the suit near the collar………no bunching, should be flat, fitting perfectly!

@yassinejalal8294 Жыл бұрын

The length thing not so much it would reach my Knees like that

@papito8032 3 ай бұрын

Right. The hand should be fully exposed even with button up shirt under so when you go to shake a man's hand he gets just your hand.

@raghavsharma3154 Жыл бұрын

I am a Teacher and these blazers are very tight. I went back to my tailor to refit my blazer. But he told that my blazer is not tight... All blazers are like that. What should i do ?

@andreleverettejr3747 2 жыл бұрын

Hey Brian, one question if I may: I workout and I have a a 28 inch waist but a 42 inch chest. I always have the lapels slightly rolling out even after tailoring, is that an acceptable factor? Thank you for your time!

@hespokestyle 2 жыл бұрын

Have you tried custom?

@frederickcombs8661 Жыл бұрын

The peewee herman jacket is the worst look, just too tight and short. This displays an average body fit that is correct, but the sleeves here, looked too short to me.

@balsonnaoshekpam6240 5 ай бұрын

As i guess

@lucasherald1388 6 ай бұрын

How much should I curve the tips of my fingers though🫠

@yashsalve7702 7 ай бұрын

Jordan Peterson of suites

@Daniel-md5dg Жыл бұрын

I got fitted and got my suit ruined started doing my own alterations

@azizrahman9496 Жыл бұрын

Best advice is from tom ford

@themindset3329 Жыл бұрын

I got the suit on the size that fits my shoulders but the arms were too long, I got them shortened but the waist area is still too wide and my interview is tomorrow. Wish me luck

@speedygonzales9993 5 ай бұрын

Tks! This is why I don't bother w/ suits.

@rurudra Жыл бұрын

I have a question. As there are lines formed in ur suit where u have closed the button. Is this right? I also have little lines formed when I close the button . Although all other points related to fitting matches

@hespokestyle Жыл бұрын

I’m standing and moving and leaning. I’m not a mannequin. If you want your clothing to always look “perfect” be a mannequin.

@rurudra Жыл бұрын

@@hespokestyle 😂 it's just that so many online articles confusing me

@danielfrancis3660 7 ай бұрын

Should your jacket length be related to the length of your torso roughly?

@Mike-zr9xg 4 ай бұрын

thats a slim look.... But you can also build your suit in a more classic style. There is no right or wrong, as long as the shoulders are right, the rest is preference.

@luggy9256 Жыл бұрын

I swear suits are just the best look for men.

@Hooman1989 2 жыл бұрын

What about those who have longer arms and shorter body

@hespokestyle 2 жыл бұрын

It’s all about proportions. And one of the reason I highly recommend going custom.

@mardiniwilldern Жыл бұрын

What’s the name of your tie knot??

@hespokestyle Жыл бұрын

It’s sort of a modified Nicky knot

@shaundocmcgowan8836 Ай бұрын

At first, I thought Jordan Peterson was about to drop some fashion tips

@rf3336 2 жыл бұрын

Where’s the suit from?

@hespokestyle Жыл бұрын

Right here: hespokestyle.com/product/navy-blue-herringbone-suit/

@Jessie_Helms 2 жыл бұрын

Something of a professional disagreement on jacket length. _Traditional_ length is at the tips of your fingers when curled up. Though it’s better to aim for 1 inch below your butt just in case you have disproportionately long or short arms. But there is an alternative, which is about an inch below your belt. It’s a very modern look, but on slim or short guys it looks fantastic. Great short!

@hespokestyle 2 жыл бұрын

Thanks for chiming in.

@Jessie_Helms 2 жыл бұрын

@@hespokestyle of course! Your channel really helped me early on when I started my job. I’m a wardrobe consultant and only even applied because of my sales experience, so when I actually landed the job I learned as much as I could as fast as I could before getting comfortable and developing my own opinions (most of which still line up with conventional wisdom, but I do have certain tastes, ya know).

@pete-mz9vr Жыл бұрын

Sleeve length is dependent on how much shirt sleeve you to show. Not all shirt sleeves are the same length. Beware!

@TheRacso2552 2 жыл бұрын

A lot of fit is personal preference tho. Just look at how much fit has changed over the decade. Longer and shorter jackets, wider and slimmer trousers etc.

@mbp985 2 жыл бұрын

Classic fit and style hasn't changed in decades. If you buy trend it will soon be out of place. Classic is timeless.

@TheRacso2552 2 жыл бұрын

@@mbp985 This is a myth that is beeing spread today. A suit today is vastly different from a 30s or 1910s suit for example.