With two hands and both sides of the circuit exposed, rather dangerous indeed.

This is the point I realized that this video won't teach me how vacum cleaners works:D I was interested in how sucction works and how to make it efficient.

Fu Sensei yes

Fu Sensei yeah :D

Yeah

@@whackowafer4765 yes i can do that. I work as a siren installer in united states. I can just put a vacuum cleaner motor on a pole that was remade into a siren! Lol ( i can't do that because a vacuum motor is not a siren)

I was about to write that

The motor runs at 30,000 RPM so it can destroy pretty soon

i disagree. that badly designed vacuum cleaners are built only for high rev runs. if you will let it rotate only on 500W it will almost have no suction. i will prefer more heavy vacuum cleaner with 550W induction motor. it is enough. look at the saw dust blowers for small wood workshops. 110mm hose and 1000Pa of sucking power. and it runs only at 2850rpms.

That's basically what I said. Bigger blades (i.e. bigger impeller), lower rpm, wider air channels. An induction motor runs at a fixed speed if you run it from the mains. Otherwise you'd need a VF which makes it expensive. Series wound motors can be controlled quite easily with a Triac and a rather simple circuit. And they are very efficient if designed properly. The now commercially used high-speed motors are very inefficient due to losses in the rotor and the large eddy currents in the stator's steel sheets.

Ahhh thanks! I didn’t think of that

Those super-inefficient motors have to have intensive air cooling, so the entire airflow must go through the motor. Thus, all the fine dust must go through the motor. There's probably no other way to build a cheap vacuum cleaner. And anyway, there are always particles small enough to get through all the filters.

@@DiodeGoneWild pokud budeš chtít najít vysavač s motorem, co má vlastní chlazení, tím pádem nasátý bordel neprojde motorem ale jen turbínkou, tak hledej mezi vysavači co pracují s vodou, ty mají motor s vlastním chlazením, takže nasátý prach nikdy neprojde motorem, taky je to pro to, že když nasáváš vodu, tak aby ti vlhký vzduch nešel motorem, nebo když projde pár kapek vody přes pěnový filtr, tak aby ty kapičky nešly skrz motor, taky, když nasáváš vodu, tak motor zvýší otáčky, a průtok vzduchu není tak silný, aby uchladil motor, jen vzniká vakum, který nasává vodu, tak aby byl furt motor chlazenej. Je to líp vymyšlený, protože když u toho ucpeš hadici, tak motor sice zvýší otáčky, ale ta druhá turbínka ho ještě chladí, a chladí tím pádem ještě víc, když se točí rychleji, když ucpu hadici u normálního vysavače, jak je ta Eta Marrel, tak se motor začne celkem rychle ohřívat... Někdy to zkusím do tý doby, než se z toho začne hulit, až najdu nějakej starej novodobej krám :)

@@DiodeGoneWild No. The dust should get captured in a bag or in a bin (if it’s bagless vacuum). Then there should be a filter. Then there should be a motor. No dust in the motor unless filter is never cleaned (is saturated with dust). Or not dust in the motor unless it’s a bad design (filter after motor for example).

Miele uses an 18 bladed single stage motor that spins at lower rpms than shark and dyson. It's one of the only few brands of modern vacuums that are actually good.

I hate modern vacuum cleaners which are really weak. A real vacuum cleaner should have at least 2000watts

Alexandru Vasiliu In the United States portable vacuum cleaners cannot exceed 1500 watts due to national electric code and UL. In North America where I live has 120 volt 60 hertz mains. If you want a really good clean air vacuum, a central vacuum with dual oversized lamb electric motors is mandatory.

Ha, you fools, you all were tricked by the vacuum companies, they trick you into getting a higher power vacuum, but in reality, the motor is just more inefficient to use more power.

@@davidperry4013 stop being Miele shill. You’re stupid if you buy a new vacuum these days that is not bagless.

Either the brushes were worn down or the commutator. You could have tried cleaning the commutator with a polishing compound as well as the gaps in the commutator, or changing the brushes if they are chipped.

zx8401ztv it will probably be the TRIAC driver (zero crossing etc), replacing a DIAC and a few other passives most likely. It is essentially a dimmer switch

All the cheap vac cleaners are made more or less the same way because there is no other way to build a cheap vac cleaner :).

hi there, DiodeGoneWild!

@@DiodeGoneWild i watched some of your very cool, and dangerous expiriments like the chineese latern, chineese portable electrode water heater, the chineese extension cord expiriment, and the fake apple charger. Those videos were my favorite!

@@DiodeGoneWild i subscribed to you! :)

@@DiodeGoneWild Sloboda Čačak vacuum cleaners have better motor than LG,Samsung,(even gorenje)and etc.

the rotor

That wasnt't wood block, that was a rubber cube. I think this used to be a part of the machine, rather than sucked in. It was probably to stop the vibration of the motor, but it got loose. Aluminium is probably a good material for the impeller, but its parts were riveted together very lazily. At 30 000 rpm it just flew apart.

I have exactly the same feeling :). The power is crazy. This is partly because they make the motors too small, cheap and inefficient. The air friction is also quite high in all of those filters and in the entire air path. Finally, the problem is that people choose vac cleaners by power. The more power, the better vac cleaner. So the makers are motivated to make them draw as much power as possible, regardless the suction power. But in the last years, EU starts to regulate this.

for a moment I had four vacuum cleaners a cheap (18€) 12V dry/wet vac, 180W (no brand) a cheap (70€) 220V vacuum, 1600W ("Trevi") an expensive (500€) 220V vacuum, 750W (Dyson DC-03) a cheap (59€) 220V dry/wet vacuum, 1000 W ("Powertek") The 18€ vacuum performs the same as the 70€ vacuum, but with much less power (almost a tenth!) and it also can suck up water, the 500€ vacuum performs the same as the 59€ vacuum, but it has better filtration. Conclusion: I love my 12V vacuum ;D

DiodeGoneWild Old Sloboda vacuum cleaners work only with maximum 1000w and they have better beraings and motor.Bearings and motor generally can last to 30+ years.

​@@MrOpenGL Yep, that figures. I myself go with shop vacuum cleaners for *substantial* suction, and hand-held (battery-operated) units for lighter work; each is a vastly better machine than these power-fetish-pandering junkers (which squander as much or more electricity than the former, for about as much suction as the latter). When you see that a typical fan heater's motor draws

@@DiodeGoneWild Don't forget the leakage. Anyway, 6 years later, vacuum cleaner power has come down and efficiency went up.

Pretty accurate

They channel the airfow and route it under the blades, through the motor. If they were not there, just an empty chamber, then the air would start to rotate with the blades creating a vortex and would not exit (as fast) from the impeller. So in short, they capture the rotating vortex and make an axial flow out of it. There are two sets of stator vanes actually. The one which is shown (the damaged), those pass out the flow to the perimenter, then underneath there is another set of vanes that direct the flow back into the center if the motor.

not much, about 50 dollars.

Looks like (except my comment/reply) you are completely alone! You literally got absolutely no replies OR likes in A WHOLE YEAR!

Jasně že ten vysavač je jen na střídavý napětí. Jenže s indukčním motorem by tam musely bejt převody na rychlo a ještě by ten motor byl větší než celej vysavač. Tenhle motůrek je více méně přímotop, ale zase je malej, levnej a ten vysavač uzvedne i drobná uklízečka. A ostatně, všechen příkon vysavače se postupně změní na teplo. Něco rovnou ztrátama ve vinutí, a ten zbytek vzdušným třením.

Yes, that's surely a planned obsolescence. Or a planned failure (because obsolescence usually comes with things like computers or smartphones).

The most ridiculous case of planned failure is an electric outboard motor for a boat. Everything is stainless steel, except the one part which makes it fail after a year (the end of the warranty in the USA, here it's 2 years by law). It has the drive pin of the propeller that is not stainless steel but normal steel, therefore it rusts and seals itself in the hole, then it breaks and you can't get it out to put a new one. I had to drill it out and replace it with a stainless steel piece after the dealer told me they don't carry replacement parts for the motor in Europe and I would have had to import them (out of warranty) from the USA at a grand total of 75€ (the cost of the whole motor was 169€!!!!!!), that is for a 2cm length, 3mm diameter steel rod...

Yes, made for the dump ( I wounder when the first vacuum cleaners with fixed dust bags will come , similar to glues batteries in apple products & Microsoft Surface ) ... usually planned obsolescence is referred to made for the dump , while the computer is simply technological obsolescence

The airflow sequence: the dust should get captured in a bag or bin, then there should be a filter, then there should be the motor/fan. The motor should not get dusty unless the filter is never cleaned and is saturated with dust, or unless it’s badly designed (the filter is after motor for example which is something I’ve seen).