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Casey, 3d pop is real. I am a full time wedding photographer abd videographer, who has been shooting sony for 6 years and have tried almost every single lens made by Sony, Sigma, and Tamron. And here is my kit which has been designed entirely around 3d pop: Sony a7III &IV Sigma Art 20mm t1.4 Sony Zeiss 35 t1.4 Sony Zeiss 55 t1.8 Sony Zeiss Batis 85 t1.8

1. First misconception is that lower f stops equal ''3D pop!'' Simply shooting at f1.2, does not make it a ''3D pop,'' that's just shallow depth of field aka. ''bokeh,'' that's not ''3D pop.'' 2. Second misconception is that only lenses with good micro contrast have that ''3D pop!'' The so called ''3D pop'' has nothing to do with neither macro nor micro contrast. What gives images that ''3D pop'' is the way the glass elements are designed aka. the geometrical properties of the glass elements. The glass needs to transfer the light onto the cameras sensor in a form of round rendering (3 dimensional aka. multi dimensional rendering) and very good rendering of the distances between different objects in the image, as well as having extremely good rendition of tonality and saturation between different colors of those same objects at different distances. Depth of field or lower apertures, have absolutely no impact on how anything is rendered by the lens and macro and micro contrast rendering only helps with saturation/tonality performance, meaning neither macro nor micro contrast have direct impact on how the lens renders dimensionality and distance of different objects or how it renders tonality and saturation between different colors of different objects at different distances. A large number of ''3D pop'' lenses will also have either an apochromatic glass element or apochromatic coating on one of the glass elements (mostly only Zeiss, Voigtlander, Hasselblad and Leica lenses have true apochromatic glass or coatings) which equals to extremely good correction of chromatic and spherical aberrations. Most modern/latest (post 2014-15) lenses have very flat, one dimensional rendering, with very poor rendition of tonality and saturation (and micro contrast,) which is a result of poor geometrical design of lenses aka. a lens design that is primarily focused on extreme sharpness and getting those f-stops lower and lower, with ten billion glass elements. Most Ziess and Hasselblad lenses are made this way, as well as some of the Leica, Voigtlander, Nikon/Nikkor, Tokina and old Contax-Zeiss lenses. Sony also has some ''3D pop'' lenses, namely the Sony-Zeiss 50mm f1.4, the Sony-Zeiss 55mm f1.8, the really old(cheapest) 50mm f1.8, the GM 85mm f1.4 and the 600mm f4 - and there are some Fuji lenses with ''3D pop'' as well but it's only two lenses; the 35mm f1.4 and the 80mm f2.8 macro. Nikon, Leica, Hasselblad, PhaseOne and Voigtlander are the only ones who are still making SOME good quality lenses that are not flat and have that ''3D pop.'' SOME lenses, not ALL lenses. Sonys E mount also has the relatively new 35mm, 50mm, 55mm, 85mm and 135mm from Zeiss, that all have the ''3D pop,'' as well as two of their GM lenses. So there's that...

Shocking amount of pulsing coming from the Sony 🤨. Also you're right, the amount of bokeh isn't what creates the 3D pop, it's the falloff. FF (and larger) sensors fall off a lot faster and smoother than smaller sensors so it's always giving this impression of the subject being separated from the background.

3D pop looks like you just took a small dose of LSD and its barely starting to kick in. And everything looks different, but you can't quite put your finger on it

I just love how you still use the term toneh 😄... you're hilarious 😊

To me 3D pop happens when a) the whole subject is in focus (so not too shallow dof), b) there is noticible blurring from shallow dof to the background/foreground, and c) the non subject elements tend to run across the frame in one focal plane and not coming into/out of the camera too much (especially near the subject). I'm sure aberration and other corrections happening differently on in and out of focus elements helps though.

Excellent video about 3D pop. Theoria Apophasis made a video a few years ago about why extremely expensive Zeiss lenses like the Zeiss Otus have Chromatic Aberration is because Chromatic Aberration induces 3D pop. He explained it as being analogous #D down a single lens, and demonstrated with the 3D glasses having Red and Blue lenses. But Red and Blue mixed together equals PURPLE! Its true, 3D is designed into lenses. I look at all my Pentax images and they're dripping in 3D pop and even from the cheap kit lenses. 85mm and up is the sweet spot for 3D pop, but I've got the Pentax DA12-24mm f/4 which is an UWA lens that can produce 3D pop easily - but people complain about the CA's in most UWA's and now we have sterile looking modern lenses. I added Fuji to my collection and a 56mm 1.2, and it ain't got the 3D pop like even the cheapest Pentax lenses. So disappointed and ended up selling it and other gear too. Fuji does not have it, and if it does its very faint 3D pop and NOTHING like what I'm getting in Pentax. I've had Nikon's and Sony's. Leica has got the 3D pop in spades. Check out Matt Osbornes youtube channel and his Leica 90mm f/2 portraits, that lens is off the hook! 3D pop-a-popping! Thats a $4000 to $5000 lens USED. Thats medium format pricing! I hear the MF Zeiss 100mm makro f/2 is also a catch. But Kasey's Voitlander is excellent with its 3D pop. Photographers don't get photography, and very few even speak about 3D pop. All they talk about is "Auto focus speed and acquisition" and nothing about 3D pop. In professional photography all they know is Auto Focus and having a trinity lens setup of 15-30mm f/2.8, 24-70mm f/2.8 and 70-200mm f/2.8 - and thats it!

🤣 bro I gotta give it to you, you're good at comedy. Somebody find this man a light 😂

What a beautiful illustration! Thanks for this!

Hi! Are you on multi or zone on the sony?

Hey Kasey, love your vids! After seeing the focus hunt on the a7SIII, it got me thinking...there's a line saying "Improves the stability of the custom white balance" in the new firmware 2.10 description - does it at least finally allow you to choose custom white balance while in Memory Recall settings(1/2/3 on the dial)? Thanks you're awesome!

The Olympus view is quite nice. Good colour, nice softness, doesn't overly blur the background... I quite like it. :)

Zeiss 35mm f2 Distagon ZF.2 definitely has it. I used to have it and sold it. Looking back at the images in wedding albums, all the Zeiss images had a magic to them. It's hard to tell just by looking at a one off image but if you view a series of images from different lenses the magic reveals itself. I've since bought the lens again and will be adapting to the X-H2 as one of the main cameras at weddings as it's very easy to focus being such a short focus throw. Still waiting to arrive in the post.

I learnt a lot! More gear acquisition should be finding all vintage throw away 3D lenses. That depth is real when you see it side by side. Some major lens mojo going on

6D coming in as flat as the earth.

From what I can see from the sony auto-focus, it is the same as in the Canon R5 with firmware 1.5.0. There was an identical situation, fortunately they caught up and eliminated it in 1.5.2 and even improved the auto-focus and successively reduced the R5 overheating problems in 1.6.0 to virtually zero

The best 3D pop you can probably get is from the old Zeiss Jena Pancolar serie from the 80s, especially the 50mm. By the end of the year Canon will release a successor to the R serie: wait for it, before buying an R. BTW, the cheap RP is exactly the same as the 6Dmkll with better AF.

Gotta say, that was fun to watch, I LIKE THIS TOPIC, keep it going. Zeiss on Fuji next as you foreshadowed?

My zeiss 100 mm 2.0 makro planar has stunning 3d pop. Same with the 85 planar 1.4. It is a function of a low element count. My zeiss/voigtlander/ 1995 nikon glass has 6 to 8 elements. A nikon 70-200 TWENTY TWO PIECES OF LIGHT SUCKING, REFLECTING, SCRAMBLING GLASS. The extreme amount of micro contrast makes the separation between edges of the subject and background crazy sharp, hence appears 3d. I am a fan of Ken Wheeler, the angry photographer and once you see the difference you will notice it's absence in high element count lenses. This also results in greater tonal transitions in shadows because the low energy shadow light hasn't been sucked out before it reaches the sensor/film. My Mamiya 645 and RB67 have 5 and 6 element lenses with not only stellar pop, but also gorgeous bokeh. Once you see this characteristic, you will be willing to use the focus confirmation arrows and meatball to nail focus on nikon dslrs. I shot a portrait the other day with the 100 mm, and with less than 4" dof, nailed the eyes sharpness on a couple using focus confirmation. And the colors you get from lenses like the voigtlander 58 1.4, every time I look a the lcd, I say wow.

I think if you could nail the color and the exposure a little better that would make a way bigger difference than any of the lenses you're using. I still haven't seen a single frame on your channel that looks what would call "good". I do appreciate the humor, you are probably youtube's 2nd most funny camera content creator.

This video was absolutely brilliant ! I definitely see it 👀

"3D pop" is achieved by sharp focus on the subject and not overdoing the Toneh. You're welcome. 😉

I love using my old 50mm Sonnar from the 50s, I feel like the out of focus areas have some haze added to them and that haze isn’t in the in-focus areas, which gives a neat-looking difference in contrast and darker blacks on the in-focus subject? Is that what 3D pop is?

I was once down this rabbit hole of 3d pop. My conclusions after reading almost every article is that 3d pop is achieved by various photographic techniques coming together... Mostly by accident and thats why it isn't something you can measure.. of course a good lens with good microcontrast helps a bit but it's not in the lens... you need specific things to be done when composing such an image... lets analyze it a bit.. 1) You need a background with repeating patterns that doesn't connect to the subject in the foreground by the fall out of the bokeh.. a wall or a straight down cliff with even color (preferably dull colors like gray, brown, earth etc, not green) will do the trick 2) you need 30-80mm lens and you need to stop it down between f4-6.3 as to have all of the subject or person in focus and have a less blurred out background. background should be 30-40 meters behind the subject. reason is that if the subject isn't entirely in focus then it connects with the background through the blurryness. it's a no no 3) you need the whole subject in frame and not touching the borders, there must not be anything else in focus than the subject so it is crucial to avoid including anything else thats in the same plane of field as your subject. no leaves, no bushes no anything. 4) You need some form of sideways backlight in order to light up ever so slightly the rim of your subject like the hair for example and make the subject stand out more 5) More contrast on the subject than the background, can be done in post processing 6) to keep the subject separate from the background it is easier done by having him/her shot from lower angle, so low as the ground they are standing on cannot be seen connecting all the way to the background. You cannot have the bokeh transitioning from less blur to more blur as it falls off into the distance. and thats probably the whole trick to it. just have one equally blurred out background into the same plane far into the distance and only your subject in focus. One scene that i can imagine the 3d pop effect easily being done is if you shoot straight on someone posing on the edge of a pool board. That way you can separate his/her body from having contact with the blurred out background from any direction. Another shot you could do that is if your subject is standing on a slightly higher ground than you like for example some city squares that are raised up by 3-5 steps and you're shooting from a distance as to not be so obvious that you are photographing from a lower angle. 7) Contrasting colors, red jacket on blue waterfall background for example is tremendously helpfull for the 3d pop effect Mind you this ain't scientific at all. it's my observations after seeing many images that look 3d pop to my eyes. So this is all subjective but you can experiment with it if you got the free time

Its funny, I love that Sony hard... until I see it next to anything else. Everything else looked better in this video. Olympus did itself proud - looked great. Fuji colours rocked. Canon, over-sharpened-ness looked good here for some weird reason, especially in the side-by-sides - we never know what we are going to like on any given day... Good reason to stick with whatever you have and make that work.

How dose the P40 pro compair? And what about xeperia (sony) vs China

that astia soft looks so great besides the SONY PUKEY GREEN

What kind of sandals are those? Are they a sponsor? Do you have a discount code?

85mm GM has that 3D effect. I don't know what it does but it's something magical about it.

what lens should I buy for the s1h Panasonic to get 3d pop

We need a "3D pop truther" shirt 😆

You are engaging and very funny, and the background music added a great extra element. Thank you sir!

Back in the 80s I had a Canon A1 with a Canon f1.4 50mm FD lens. I took a series of photos of a cottage room that had just window illumination. I took about 8 photos and 3 photos came back with amazing 3d pop that I have not really seen since. Even people that didn't know anything about photography recognized that there was something special about those images. 3D pop is real and was real even back in the film days.

In regards to the Autofocus. I had that 55mm lens do exactly the same thing before the firmware updates. It really struggles when you are small in the frame and also have a lot of highlights going on. When I got mine it failed in a tree-scene a number of times until I filled up a good 1/3 of the frame. It may be worse now though, which isn't good! Cool video. :)

I'm curious, did you use some log on that Olumpus footage? Dynamic range worse than a penguin lullaby. Or is that just poor exposure?

I do see it thanks for the comparisons. Can you try and borrow a full frame cannon and see what it looks like?

Was gonna recommended that DIY perks but you mentioned it. When I saw that I immediately thought of you

I have 15mm f1.7 and rokinon 35mm t1.5, do any of them have the 3d pop?

I'm guessing 3D-pop could be partially quantified in an MTF, but perhaps the lines normally used do not represent the length scales that are most relevant for this effect. Either way there is a world of difference between my Sigma 24-70 T2.8 DG DN and my Voigtländer 50mm T2 APO. At the same aperture and focal length the Voigtländer pops way more(though admittedly it also has a pretty nice MTF). Lateral chromatic aberrations probably don't help as the reduce contrast on edges, which sort of blends the subject with the background, but Longitudinal ones might help a bit, as they tend to make the toneh smoother.

Can we get the pany boy gh6 review? it doesn't feel complete without ur review

Coincidentally 3D Pop is also my favorite music genre.

I notice huge differences with your own videos and other KZfaq channels INSIDE and really want that 3d pop for inside shots. Interesting also when considering your video comparing focal lengths (getting that “flattering but not realistic” portrait distance which looks flatter)

Subject isolation is not just bokeh. All qualities of defocused distortion come into play, as far as I can tell, to get that “pop“. This includes chromatic aberration, longitudinal ca, field curvature, astigmatisms, vignette, and intervention distortions… How much “pop“ is because of dodging and burning at the enlarger?

Hey Casey, loving your videos. Best camera channel under the firmament. I have an X-H1 and a Pixel 6. I shoot talking heads videos, commercial coffee roasting/brewing footage, some vlogging, and have been trying to start shooting some wildlife as well. While I can cope with the terrible AF of the X-H1, the weight of the camera, and lack of articulating screen, is leading me down a rabbit hole that is going to result in an over-the-top setup, reminiscent to what you and Jared demonstrated in your video about vlogging in raw. I've been considering adding an additional camera to either compliment or replace the X-H1. Curious if you have any thoughts on the X-A7. It's light and I occasionally see it at great prices. I've also been considering an X-T4, DJI Pocket 2, X-S10, Canon M with Magic Lantern, M200, or just playing with some Moment lenses to make the Pixel less boring and more usable. (Could use wide angle lens with better Pixel sensor). Thoughts or suggestions? Please cure my GAS. H.A.G.S. -Toby

You say "Sony firmware update of the century". I can't see any updates on the Sony site, what update are you referring to?

“This nature, it’s beautiful and you throw up on it, it’s rude” 😆

Almost all Soviet lenses have that characteristic Zeiss pop, because their optical formulas are the same as Zeiss'. Can't go past them for manual focus video, IMO. I've shown video I've taken on lenses like the Mir-24 35mm f/2 and VarioZenitar-K 25-45 f/2.8-3.5 to some videographers I work with, they'll always comment on how good/plastic the bokeh looks. It's definitely a characteristic of how the bokeh renders, and also how stable the bokeh is. Look at a lens with 3D pop, zoom into the bokeh and slow it down - you will see how stable each bokeh ball looks. This contributes greatly to the 3D pop effect.

I think it has to do with the smoothness of the toneh balls or boke balls, I believe the old M42 pentax lenses have 3d poppage if you want to test it

There is something really special about that 55mm lens. It’s a real classic.

If there's not enough contrast/saturation separation between the foreground and background, as if there was no atmosphere or haze in between, it tends to kill that 3D look. Those subtle nuances tend to get lost somehow on smaller cheaper cameras.

That 0.4 diy lens is insane

Great video .. I've noticed a 3d pop with the fuji 23mm f2

I might be falling for you, CC. YOU AND YOUR VIDEOS ARE AWESOME SAUCE! I hope SOMEONE makes the perfect camera just so I (who knows squat about cameras) can see you smile with glee!

I saw things you talk about. I have your favorite panasonic G85 and 2 "portrait" lenses. Olympus 45 f1.8 and vintage Helios 58 f.2.0 with adaptor and Helios has this 3D POP in compare(this in micro 4/3 looser on ful frame glory it will be cool).

Some lenses with amazing 3D Pop: Angénieux-Zoom 1:2.8 / 45-90mm (Leica R) Leitz Super-Angulon 21mm 1:4 Leitz Summilux 50mm 1:1.4 Version I (1959) Leitz Rigid Summicron 50mm 1:2 Leica R 75-200mm 1:4.5 (Minolta) Nikkor 35-70mm 1:3.5 Ai and Ai-S Nikkor 50-135mm 1:3.5 Ai-S Nikkor 50-300mm 1:4.5 Nikkor 300mm 1:2.8 ED Ai-S PENTAX 50mm 1:1.4 SMC K ... and many many more

Try the otus lineup. They deliver the most dimensionality that i have ever used and owned. Its just crazy when you turn millimeters on the focus ring it will completly Change the background and feel of the Image.

very interesting. thank you.

Yeah that do it yourself guy with the 0.4 periscope homemade lens was just 🤯 glad you also saw that video, ultimate Toneh

Leica R 90mm has it all day. I use it on my R4 and adapted to my Fuji XT-2. Magical, Bro!

Put 3D glasses for extra pop.

I have a Voigtlander 50mm f1.5 M39 lens obtained when the Bessa R was introduced which I have used for shoulders-up portraits taken in open shade with my A7ii and those portraits have a subjectively ineffable character. I have also a similar look with my other old manual focus primes, such as my 135mm Minolta MD f2.8, in open shade at maximum aperture. I agree that old lens designs, even in modern lenses, produce a different look than modern lens designs. Whether one prefers that look is another question, and some people may not like manual focusing a lens, which is a new world to people that did not begin photography before AF took over.

That Fuji XH2s image was glorious.

I have a question: can you mount 150-600mm lens on 1.4x TC over 2x TC. Don't ban me from your channel.

The best 3D pop comes from consuming certain types of mushrooms. Guaranteed it will look like you can walk right into your images!

First time I noticed 3D pop was as an utter novice not even looking for it after putting a Zuiko 50 and an old Helios adapted to a consumer level Nikon. People claiming it doesn't exist just haven't experienced it... and /or are perhaps skeptical due to the over-hype of it and fear of ridicule should they accept its existence. You know, kind of like "Sasquatch". :-) Laugh. Laugh all you like but...I'm just sayin. By the way, thank you CC for NOT sucking at your job....carrying around, setting all that gear up, mixing comedy with layman's tests, not to mention the organization and effort involved to keep up with the work flow and editing....respect. Lots of respect extended to you.

Sony dynamic range is crazy

I believe this video is simply a fever dream that I need to wake up from.

I saw it exists when I switched from Tamron 17-28 to Sony 20 1.8

Perhaps the most 3D POPpy lens is the cheap classic 50/1.8. It's so small and light, because there's only 3D POPpyness inside and nothing else :)

Very interesting subject, but I was surprised to see that none of the examples actually has the 3D effect. Lovely tone and style, though. Keep going!

I must admit that I'm not a fan of Astia in the inside, but outside, especially in the greens, it looks stunning!

That's a cool slowmo intro at 0.25! Did you film it with the Huawei P40 Pro 960 fps mode and upscale using Topaz VEAI? I can tell it's from the Huawei P40 Pro cause I have that camera too. The 960 fps looks pretty good after I upscale them in Topaz VEAI.

In all seriousness, 3D pop can also be made stopped down. Just look at Sail Chong highlight reels. Try doing a video on "micro contrast". *I think the 3D pop comes from the lens, not the sensor size it's projected on.

Wow, that AF hunting with the new firmware update reminds me of Panasonic AF. That's insane. I have the A7iv. I hope they don't pass on that AF twitching onto the A7iv. Good demonstration of the 3D pop with some good ole Kasey humor thrown in.

It's easy to get separation from an in focus subject and oof background, but with the zeiss 35 mm 2.0 distagon, I can stop down for environmental portraits and STILL have the subject pop from the in focus bg, Photographers and painters work hard to create a third dimension in a 2 dimensional photo/painting and these lenses help create that.

"3D pop" is why I still shoot with my old Yashica lenses I got in the 70s and 80s. I haven't considered the CA correction as the culprit.

I see it too. With my iPhone I can zoom in up to 8 times on you video. It’s definitely there!!

I thought you will do a blue-red colour grading and we have to use that snarky 3D glasses.

I would love to see the comparison between identical lenses, one modern and one vintage, everything else equal,to see how they are different. your tests was either between camera with different sensor size and you have to compensate with different focal length, or between fix and zoom lens…

I found different camera's lens sensor stack thickness effects 3D pop. That's why I switched to Z7 for shooting vintage glass. Some cameras are better than others at revealing the lenses true 3D pop character. Also there are some amazing combinations of sensor glass and lens that produce special results I can't explain.

Sweet lord the Voigtlander just obliterates all the others, that pop is from another plane

Maybe this explains why I liked that Sony 35mm f2.8 so much for some reason I couldn't put my finger on.

Great video, keep it up.

The 3d pop from vintage lenses comes from every little imperfection that slightly separates parts of the image. Bokeh rolloff (appears as imperfect focus becuz not just subject in focus) Chromatic abberation (off white tint on foreground and background) Slight Fisheye distortion due to lens design being more "wide" or curved. No software compensation to further distort the image causing unnatural artifacts like ripple distortion. Sharpness rolloff being best in the center of the lens. All these imperfections gives people clues as to what's in foreground background and focal plane. They're only clues because for humans,using 2 eyes to focus on the same object is the main way we feel distance.

That why many of us has Zeiss sonnar 50 mm 1.5 zm, or voigtlander 40 or 50 mm 1.2 VM on our Sony cameras, with techart. And by the way, photographers do say the 3 D pop is real. Maybe not KZfaq photographers since they have afiliated links for modern super sharp lenses at the bottom of their videos

Try the legendary Helios lenses, it'll blow your mind

3D pop is not just about F stops and depth of field. Partly yes but not completely, it is about how many gradations of light can be captured. In the Zeiss and Voitlangder lenses, we can see that richer tonal depth is captured. Highlights are less harsh, shadows not as crushed, colors are more rich, saturated and true. We can have an image with great pop at F8 and an image with poor pop at F0.95. And yes, these qualities were mostly present in vintage lenses, but there are some vintage lenses with terrible pop or image fidelity. On the other hand, there are modern lenses with great pop. 2 great prime examples that come to mind are the 45mm F1.8 Tamron and 35mm F1.4 Tamron, also the Canon RF 50mm f1.2 etc... Also true that low element countglass comprised of quality Lead based glass can be a contributor. The more you add glass, the more attenuation is applied to the light before it reaches the camera sensor. But there are also some low element count lenses that are terrible and some primes with 15 element with great pop.

Yep. It exists. I had a 70's Zeiss 50/1.8, manual focus adapter to a Sony A72. Maybe $150. It had 3D pop.

All zeiss classic lenses , ze and zf do have 3d pop in their image output. But its all manual lenses. I shoot lot of zeiss classics with 5d classic. You should definitely try. Vintage and pop overload.

Brilliant

Try adapting a Hasselblad lens

Wow the fuji had more 4D pop

Yes I remember the first time I shot a portrait with the 55 f 1.8, I now have the za 35mm f 2.8, Batis 40mm and 25mm

you r into a metaphysics teritory here, as a fan of manual lens,i can give some recommendation,the dlsr version zeiss 85 1.4 zf or ze version all will do,zf prefered, pentax 77 1.8, nikon ais 105 2.5, voightlander 65 2,they r all pack with 3D pop,or i would say "Visual HIFI"

I love the 3d pop and micro contrast out of mine Leica and zeiss lenses

First, you have to get everyone to agree on a definition of "3D pop!" For example, background separation due to aperture doesn't automatically mean 3D pop. Nor does use of a particular lens. I've created 3D pop with the Zeiss FE 55 f1.8 on the a7iii, and also the GFX 50S w/ GF 110 f2 (hell, even the RF 35 1.8). Distance to subject, aperture, light, texture of subject, etc, all impact how we perceive the so-called 3D pop. I've seen people claim certain images have 3D pop, they were just shot using 400mm at f2.8. I've seen images shot on shitty cameras and lenses have that 3d look that I hear so many people talk about, and it was only because of the lighting & distance to subject. This topic's been discussed to death on the internet and I think so few people actually understand that it that those conversations have only confused folks more.

I discovered this, playing with a couple vintage Nikon lenses. Nikon made a 135mm 2.8 AI and AI-S and they used to make an "E series" back then too. They made, like a half dozen of them. They were built more like today's lenses is all; with plastic. So one could argue that all lenses made today are now "E series" equivalents... but I digress. Anyway, one them are in fact the 135mm 2.8 and it sells for less than the Nikkor. Well, I tried TWO copies (one AI and one AI-S which have the exact same optics) against the E and it was the E that has FAR more of this "3d pop"! So much so, the TINY spec of increased sharpness (from wide open at 2.8 to 3.5 while pixle peeping to see it) was TOTALLY negated and blown away by the then, "budget/ consumer" grade E! I Fell right in instant love the 135mm 2.8 Series E that I mistaken thought was a Nikkor that I thought, my god if this little sweetheart is this nice, I HAVE to try the Nikkor! Well, needless to say, I sold both Nikkors and kept the E! For who want to know, it took some digging, but I finally did find and confirm the E contains less glass. In this case, less is more! Most people will never know this. Most will never both the E and the Nikkor of this vintage lens to test them side by side like this. But they're cheap enough, you can. Another example that I just saw while flipping through Flickr photos, is the older lenses; "The beast" - 28-70mm f2.8 AF-S (with it's failure prone first gen focus motor which I own) against the 35-70mm 2.8 AF screw drive lens. I was blown away by the photos in sharpness for the $! I was gunna get one to play with but then I compared these and "the beast" although my copy is manual focus only, produced FAR superior "3d pop"! That's what sets it apart. Not it's sharpness! I didn't compare these optic formulas but in this case, the higher end lens surpasses the lower end one. This is older stuff, but it's fun and affordable to play with still. I don't need to spend the kind of money it takes to play with new lenses. I mean I do have a couple too, don't get me wrong, but when it's stuff I don't primarily have a use for, I like playing with vintage glass. Anyway, point being, you can clearly see this in photos too and to me, this is even more important than just sharpness.

Isn't it also a function of the bigger sensor? Medium format has it even more Try photographing a dice 🎲 (straight on, only the face of once side) on APS-C Vs Full Frame Vs Medium Format - you'll see something magical occur. Even more interesting if you shoot on a 5x7 and 8x10 camera - that will really blow your mind 💪

Because of your videos with the Canon 6D mk2 showing the superior color science, I went out and bought a used 5D mk4 a couple of days ago. I already had some L glass and a Ninja V to record in Pro Res in 1080P. The colors on the 5D look fantastic right out of the camera. The previous owner had installed Clog, but I haven’t used it yet. I got a great deal at $800 US. If you can find a used one at a great price, I think you need to get one. Like you, I also have an A7S3, but my colors look a lot better than yours, so I don’t know what’s going on with yours. Maybe you need to do a factory reset on it, just in case it’s got something screwed up in it.