grease is meant to absorb heat and preserve the life of your bits....

That'll save the eyes, since the tank is a ferris metal you'll be channeling magnetic Flux lines to the side of the tank they are trying to avoid getting shavings into, additionally magnetizing the small chips making them difficult to remove until enough time passes and they let go falling past the pick up. Although you have given me the reason I haven't tossed my broken microwave yet, definitely need that magnet so thanks. (Someone could always do your way and leave the magnet there for good, trapping foriegn metal out of the fuel for years, but missing out on accidentally erasing their favorite VanHallen cassette)

This one is easy now with the right part. Go for it and be safe if you’re using a tank that’s had fuel in it.

Thanks!

No need to add anything else to seal it. The gasket works just fine if it’s not over tightened.

I’m sure there are solutions for that but this for sure isn’t it.

Glad you liked it!

Don’t think so. It’s a rivnut. I’d imagine it would pull through the plastic before it would tighten down and seal. You could do a bulkhead fitting and get a good result I’d think.

Thanks! Glad it was useful!

It’s a great question! I have a 71 with the emissions tank and need to see what that space looks like and if the return will interfere with the filler neck. Replacing the fuel tank sometime this summer. Have though of trying it there. We’ll see!

thats exactly what I did

@@martinreed5964 # mee too.

You mean where the line from the carb goes into the tank or where you pump it at the gas station

Sure can. Carb or EFI.

@@MuscleCarSolutions Thank you for such a speedy reply sir. Much appreciated. Blessings to you and the family.

@@robertclymer6948 no problem! Best of luck!

Neat idea!

If I had to account for lack of common sense in my videos, they would all be four hours long!

Only thing that would make me afraid of that is what the ethanol will do to it. PVC doesn’t have any protection from that nasty stuff.

On my first EFI retrofit, a 77' Mustang II, I removed the filler neck and welded a return nipple to it. Worked perfectly and easy to to.

@@Ares-jx4ep I could see that working on some filler necks. Others not so much. Plus the welding aspect is outside of most folks skill levels. Either way, I’d be interested in seeing a 77 foot Mustang II! 🤣

Anything that’s metal on metal has the chance of creating spark. Take every precaution to prevent it. Popular method is to completely fill the tank with water then do your drilling/cutting/welding.

Maybe. I’m not sure if you’d pull through the fiberglass while trying to compress the body. Only one way to find out! Let me know how it goes. lol

Maybe. If it’s a vent line though you might run into issues.

@@MuscleCarSolutions no the sending unit would have a second line for a return

Sounds like a good idea.

@@MuscleCarSolutions Yah I do it all the time I a remodeler, I'll tape the shop vac to the tool or area Im working

@@frekkledipped seems like a very good solution. Will have to give it a go next time I install one!

No. Just use a bulkhead fitting.

Through the pump housing or straight into the tank with a hose inside going to the bottom so no air in fuel return to the tank?

Yes. It’s not meant to be anything more than a return line. It will leak if placed below the fuel line.

For like a turbo drain? Yes and no. Yes you could, no it wouldn’t be a big enough size. -10 at a minimum. -12 would be better. You don’t want a choke point there and have oil back into the turbo.

No. Most factory stuff and the aftermarket returns the fuel right next to the outlet/pickup point.

yes, just in case the return fuel is heated and gets picked up before it can cool

Sure would.

Thank you!

@@MrRewdtv no problem! Best of luck.

Absolutely not.

Link is in the description.

It’s a possibility but it still pushes material up into the tank.

It’s not returning gallons per minute. It’s a slow trickle of fuel and you’d get more chaos from making turns in the vehicle Ike than what a return line in the top of the tank would introduce. No worry.

Not enough room on the sending unit for it. At least I don’t recall seeing one that had enough room to put one. The footprint of fairly large for the return port. Unless you can find one with a stainless plate that you could tig a line to.

its probably a good idea to place the return as far away from pickup in case the return fuel is heated and gets picked up before it has time to cool

Not a bad idea. I’ve done about a dozen of these so far and no issues yet.

@@MuscleCarSolutions Agreed. Since this one has the wrench flats to keep it from spinning probably not needed. Trying to do the cheaper ones with a bolt instead of using the tool, I've had them spin on me. I has another question for you. . .have you ever done any fuel systems with hard line and specifically how did you transition from the hard line to the AN fittings/hose. Just looking for tips for an EFI system I am about to do. I don't really want to run hose all the way.

I almost always run line the entire way. Very rarely do I use hard line. If you want to retain it, you can with a AN fuel line adapter. Similar to this one: amzn.to/2YuZuT2

Don’t see why not. If it’s used as a return line.

That doesn’t make any sense. They have their return right in the fuel pump hat which is in the top of the tank. It’s not mounted low at all.

What is your pressure regulator set at? What is the GPH of the punk you’re using? What carb are you pushing 7psi to?

@@MuscleCarSolutions ok-- i have a 66 ford truck 352-- 2 brl-- it has serious vapor lock issues- solution on u tune --add a return line- the filter i got has a 1/4 return line to the tank-- not installed yet- duralast FF3420DL-- i get 9MPG-- camper on back-- uses a ton of gas at 60mph-- a friend said the return line which is as i understand it-- is wide open will cause low carb pressure on highway - no pressure regulator-- tests with filters that dont have a return line-- dont address the issue- also its a mechanical pump so might not have the thru put of an electrical pump- i could install it and test it but id like to get infromt of the problem-- really appreciate your input -

When you say vapor lock, what do you mean? It’s having issues while running or after you drive it and shut it off it’s hard to start? The fuel economy side is difficult. You’re not going to find big improvements in the engine. That’s why overdrive transmissions now have 8 and 10 gears. It’s keeps the operating rpm low. The return line has nothing to do with what psi the carb sees. Only potential volume. If it’s a factory pump it’s probably adequate if it’s operating as it should.

@@MuscleCarSolutions vapor lock-- running at 60 slow down to 10mph its 110degrees outside-- gas boils- im stuck-- hard to start also if i stop sometimes when very hot-- same reason gas boils- i think the idea behind the filter with the return line is 2 fold- 1-- vapor is routed back to the tank 2- since there is constant gas flow the gas stays cooler- many people on u tube say this works- it sounds like it should- im stuck with 9mpg-- i only bring it up to show that the motor requires a lot of gas-- so we are getting to the issue: you said : The return line has nothing to do with what psi the carb sees. Only potential volume. -- i think thats true only if the pump can pump enough gas to run the motor as well as create a constant flow of gas back to the tank-- i think this type of filter has a constant opening so liquid gas goes to the tank the same as unwanted vapor- if you blow thru it air goes right out the return-- so to be absurd but make a point-- if the pump was outputted to an open ended garden hose it would produce zero pressure-- maybe you answered the issue by saying you think the factory pump should accommodate both the motor as well as the return-- i guess the only way i know is to run this thing at 60mpg with the return hooked up and see if the motor starves for gas-- appreciate your input--

@@quickfix9815 the engine is the heat source. The carburetor is negatively affected by that heat and the fuel (assuming it’s got some ethanol in it) is paying the price. I think your best bet is to start with blocking the heat source. You mentioned it’s a 2 bbl carb? Some digging might find you a company that makes a phenolic spacer. I’ve seen universal wood laminate spacers that you cut out to match your carb/intake. Don’t know. You’ve got some research to do. Either way, it’s a common problem due to bad fuel. That’s where I’d start.

Too thick for that use. If you read any articles on drilling into a blind cavity, one or the common tips is to use grease to catch the material that’s cut so it doesn’t fall into that area. It’s just not as effective as people think.

If you want erratic readings on the gas gauge, yes.

@@MuscleCarSolutions even if you bend a slight goose neck away from the float?

@@dank1349 I guess if it’s worth your time to try it? Only saw it done once with a friends project and out it came because the gas gauge looked like a tach bouncing off the rev limiter.

@@MuscleCarSolutions i thought about taking 3/8 steel tubing bending an angle on it and tigging it in. Obviously to locate it as far away from the sending unit the better but the shavings sounds like a problem and I have a S.S. tank so a magnet is going to work well fishing them out.

@@dank1349 there’s always that to consider too! Never an easy solution for problems. If you can TIG, then maybe just punch a hole, tig it back shit with the pipe size you want and locate it anywhere?

Because this was the second video I shot. The first video was on an actual tank and an endless amount of Karen’s complained they couldn’t see in the tank. Can’t seem to win with you folks. 😂