@@Omar411269 i didn’t know about that aspect of it, it its always at 90 degrees wouldn’t it remain the same space thus nullifying the adjustment just made?

@@sparkthego Hmmm, good question. I think the shaft-pinch angle has to be 90 but the shaft-lever angle can be whatever makes you comfortable. Or maybe its best to have the pinch and lever parallel and the shaft can be adjusted freely.... You've made me think way to much about this lol

@@Omar411269 i didn’t look at it so I’m just guessing here but i think that the adjustable shaft should be horizontal for force efficiency, if its not it will be slightly less efficient in terms of movement but it takes stuff all force to change gear anyway so i don’t think anyone cares. The length of the horizontal shaft does nothing to the throw distance, only the vertical shafts would ( which are not adjustable). In summary I still think the teeth are for course adjusted and the shaft is for fine adjustments?

@@sparkthego So my original thinking was that , geometrically, the most efficient orientation of the shaft is perpendicular to the pinch because as the shaft moves linearly/tangentially it moves the pinch rotational around the shift knob. Think of it like on a bicycle; the most efficient part of the pedal stroke is when you're pushing straight down, when your leg is perpendicular to the crank. The least efficient part of the stroke is as you're pedaling over and and under the crank when your leg is inline with the crank. However the more I think about it I remember that the foot pedal itself is a lever that that rotates on its own fulcrum to move the shaft. So I now think that as long as the lever, shaft, and pinch form 3 sides of a parallelogram it should be equally efficient both ways. Any loss of leverage from the pedal lever moving to open an acute angle against the shaft would be met with increased leverage on the other end where the shaft is moving to close an obtuse angle at the pinch so net efficiency change is zero. So long as the angles are not too extreme a parallelogram pretty much solves the issue entirely and maintains equal shift throw in both directions. Shift force is a different question tho... I think that is where the overall angles can become important. The more extreme the angles of the parallelogram will affect the force by a factor of sin(x) or cos(y) x&y being the angles of the parallelogram. So, yes, this whole post is a long winded way of saying the proper adjustment of the shifter pedal is to unbolt and move the pinch a tooth in either direction. Changing the shaft length should be minimized to the finest of adjustments because that can disturb the parallelogram. What do you think?

@@Omar411269 I think that even if the movement didn't resolve itself (which it kind of does the shaft moves up and down vertically together), but even if it didn't If the horizontal shaft was off by 30 deg you still get 86% of the force 45 deg 70%. Even these forces would still be usable and probably not noticeable I mean feet are strong and boots are heavy. However in any adjustment you are no where near these extreme angles so you right on that part. I'm also thinking is should get a discord channel?

Does your bike have a quickshifter? I don't have that bike anymore so I cant verify why I did it in that way. On other bikes I had i'd just do it the way you were saying.

What is done in this video is not correct according to official instructions from Triumph. Download the official instructions at triumphinstructions.com (search for part-no A9930222). www.triumphinstructions.com/ProdDocs/A9930222-EN.pdf

I was able to do that on my 765 RS 2023, I just couldn´t remove the ball joint... Loosening the adjuster nut at the front allowed me to spin the shaft along with the QS strain gauge. Only problem I had was to deal with the QS wire as I spun the shaft, that required some fiddling but it ended up ok. Gear lever is now a bit higher than before and suits me better for track riding.

remove the circular clip 0:50-1:30 then undo the top lever bolt to 2:15-3:10 and push the lever in (towards the bike) to give you room to remove the ball joint.

Never had an issue with it not working. I still had alot more headroom for adjustments when you take into account the course and fine adjustments. Given how thick my boots are, I don’t think adjusting it anymore would have an practical use.

You should really take the pins out from both sides of the quick shifter rod, and always undue to the nut on the clamp first, it would have all moved much easier for you..