How to remove the fuel tank on a BMW E23, along with replacing the vent lines going into the expansion tank in the trunk. Unfortunately, this car did have a fuel leak that did need to be repaired and that was covered in another video, so if you’re seeking more information on that, be sure to check it out. #bmw #bmwe23 #bmw7series
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Tools/Supplies Needed:
-single ear clamps
-clamp crimpers
-socket set and ratchet
-jack
-ramps
-hose cutters
-4AN and 6AN hose
Procedure:
I did run the car low on fuel so minimal fuel was in the tank and it could be drained while out of the car. This tank is equipped with a drain on the bottom and it’s a socket head bolt. You can also pull the fuel pump relay or fuse, then try to start the car to bleed off any access fuel pressure so when those lines are disconnected, fuel won’t be pressurized.
Remove the shields around the fuel tank, there will be three in total. First is the one behind the differential which is held on with two bolts.
Then you’ll have two separate covers on the rear just before the bumper. First is the one cover. And then finally the other cover.
Pull the carpet up in the trunk space, this will expose a round black cap. Remove the 3 phillips screws and the cap will lift straight out. Under here is the fuel pump, there is where you can disconnect the fuel pump, sending unit, and fuel lines.
Disconnect the fuel pump and sending unit connector.
The fuel lines may have gear clamps, in my case I had eared pinch clamps which can sometimes be a challenge to remove. Good quality side cutters can be used to clip these clamps or if you have the specialty crimping tool for these, they are equipped with a cutter.
When those clamps are removed, you can then remove the lines. Next will be a rubber cover in the fuel filler neck area. Remove the fuel cap and use a nylon trim tool to pull the cover up from one side, then pull it off the filler neck. Place a jack under the fuel tank, then lower.
The straps can stay in place, for now, now slowly lower the jack and let the tank drop down. The expansion tank needs to be removed to gain access to the rubber vent lines for replacement. There will be a carpet cover which pops out of its location. The tank is held in with 2 fasteners.
Removing the tank can be hard, you need to pull it out from the top while pushing the rubber vent lines through with the grommets at the filler neck area into the car. This will give the lines added length to maneuver the tank around and then lift it out of its location.
Mark all the lines using a paint marker on the top and bottom side so the lines go to their original locations.
Next is using the crimper tool to cut each of the clamps at the ears. Remove the rubber lines. Remove the lines from the vehicle and remove the rubber grommets which will be installed on the replacement lines. I have a hard time finding the exact size replacements, so I used braided fuel line, both are 6 ft lengths which should be plenty. Two sizes are required, one is 4AN and the other is 6AN.
With the lines removed, they can be sized up and cut to the appropriate length using a hose cutter.
A rubber safe silicone spray can be used, install those rubber grommets in place first and then install the lines. Purchase the correct sized ear clamps, install them first onto the line before installing the lines on the expansion tank. Rubber safe silicone spray can be used to help slide the lines over the hose barbs. Crimp each of the eared clamps and ensure they’re tight.
The expansion tank was pushed back into place. You’ll need to pull the lines through their holes, push the grommets into place while on the lines, then gently pull the lines through those grommets. Those lines will need to be pushed down to the fuel tank location. Then install the bolts and tighten it down.
To make it easier, I installed the fuel pump first instead of when the tank is back in the car. This also helps keep the dirt out of the tank. Tighten the fuel pump down in a criss-cross pattern. All other parts were installed in reverse of removal.
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