Thanks for the compliment

It's a good upgrade for sure. Put it on lots of customers bikes. But some people just don't have the greenbacks like myself when I was young working for the dealership I had a 400$ a month snapon tool bill and two kids to put shoes on. So I figured up more cost effective ways but really the early twin cams didn't have the issue as much when I changed my cams at 60000 my 1999 shoes were in good shape. But the hydraulics are the way to go.

You can get new cyco shoes and the tool to install them for less than 90 bucks. Probably last another 30-40 thousand miles. I just can’t justify the cost of an upgrade for something thats been working fine for tens of thousands of miles and several years.

Glad I could help

Thank you

Thanks 👍

Thanks.

Yes I do you have to use a precision level but before you do that what kind of vibration u talking about.the dyna vibrates but with a certain vibration that's specific to it. The top stabilizer is more for alignment then vibration let me know.

@@DeathProofProductions Well, I will do my best. I have only owned the bike for about a month. The first issue I had once bringing the bike home was the battery would not charge while running the bike. I determined that the stator had failed and so I ordered a new one. Installed the new stator and that fixed the charging issue. The bike ran fine for a week or so. Both tires were down to the wear bars so I ordered a set of new tires from J & P online. Cycle Gear recently purchased J & P and I have a Cycle Gear near my house and they said they would mount the tires and install new tubes for $20 each. I have spoked wheels by the way. I brought the wheels and tires home and installed them on the bike. This is where the vibrations started. The vibrations would only happen at around 60 mph. After putting the bike on a lift and spinning the rear tire I noticed the rear wheel was bent. Ok, I was living with that for about a week until I went over a railroad track and it felt like my front end was loose. I proceeded to check the head set bearings. I removed the tank and the handlebars to get to the headset. This was my first time doing this so I may have screwed something up. I adjusted the headset on the steering and so I put everything back together. I fixed the loose front end issue but now the bike shakes like hell. When the bike is cold and the enrichment control is pulled all the way out so the bike can be warmed up the bike shakes so bad. The sissy bar and handle bars shake violently. I ordered new motor mounts and installed them but that didn't fix the issue. Once the bike is warmed up and Is idling the vibrations seem to calm down a bit but there is a heavy vibration at higher speeds when I hit roughly 2 3k rpms. this is a guess as I dont have a tach installed. I apologize for the long response. As you can see, there is a good chance I screwed something up along the way. I appreciate your help.

Damn Its going to be another late night I just saw your video on lining a set of old tanks listed.

What riding style does he spend most of his time at. That's what is most important in cam choice. I live in the mountains so I choose tourque cams. But open highways high rpm cams are better let me know and I can give you my choice.

Oh yeah my first pan was a 65 the pic on the header of my home page is the engine. Hope you get it back together this winter.

No

It's easier to do on that one, I have a vid on the channel's playlist on how to change out the cams on those year models.

@@DeathProofProductions thank you sir!

You don't have to have the tubes but it does make it alot easier. Any brand of rods is good.

2004

You're talking about the plate on the back side of the cam plate. It is pretty easy to take off. Only four bolts, but it's a pain in the ass to straighten if the bearing begins to come out before the cams. Trust me I learned from experience.

Your good. They really can go either way. They recommend that because of wear patterns, but your miles are so low it doesn't matter. Congrats on the 03. I remember when when Willie G Davidson came to the dealership and I worked on his big "Ride across America" to celebrate the 100th year anniversary. It was a good time.

@@DeathProofProductions thanks brother! Think I’ll have a beer now.

You have to pull the cam plate then flip it over, it's stamped on the back of the cam lobe.

There is a flat spot on the crank and a line on the cam plate at 11:00 o'clock, line them up and that's top dead on front cylinder. I need to know what year bike and mileage on it to know if you need to fool with the bearing.

@@DeathProofProductions ok got it and t's an '01

If it's low miles I wouldn't replace the bearings but they do press out like the cams.

To change cams you have to press them out. That day I was actually filming changing out my rear tensioner shoe with cyco gaskets shoes but it's the same job for cam replacement, so we were able to make that vid as well. I didn't need to change bearings but yes you press them out. If your gonna change pads I recommend getting them from my eBay account. Just look for the thumbnail with the channel logo. I sell them on there because I see alot of people selling knockoffs and calling them cyco brand but I know mine are because there in the correct package and I pic them up at the factory in Arkansas not far from my shop. Trust me I only break even but it helps people not replace a problem with a problem. check you run out but the other stuff you only need if there damaged.

@@DeathProofProductions awesome thank you. At some point I want to freshen it up but currently just want to replace the pads so I can ride this summer with confidence. I would like some performance upgrades later like cams. I’d really like them to provide that choppin lope sound if I’m honest. Is there a fairly simple cam change I can do to accomplish this? I assume I’ll stay with chain setup. Do you have videos of roll out checking without special tools? Thanks again for what you’re doing. As most are saying a simplified version for the common man from an expert that know what to do but doesn’t push the bs is a breath of fresh air.

No that's one of those jobs that you have to use a dial indicator.

I would go with the 110 as well. Your right it's like crack cocain once you get started it's hard to stop. You only need to change the pump it if it's scored up bad but it's normal to have a little.

Yeah now I need to decide which cam for that kit... 🤔🤔

What style of riding you usually do.

the type of riding is back country roads, around town, highway and the occasional trip to the mountains and twisties. I typical shift gears between 3500 and 4000 rpms in the lower gears.. and about 2700 to 3000 rpms in the upper gears. been looking at Fuel Moto as they have a sale going on now. I live in NC so the tail of the dragon a couple times of year also.. I currently have the s&s 551C installed for cams

You ride like me, I live in the Ozarks and ride out west alot so after trying a pile of cams I found that the s&s 583 was what I was looking for. I would change them out so often buddies would tell me I need to put a zipper on the cam cover to make it quicker.

Do you have the stock exhaust on it now.

Thanks

You talking about cams

Will do it very soon.

Thanks for the compliment , I showed that I had a tensioner tool but I used a pair of pliers to do the job and a press really isn't a special tool in this day and age. Harbor freight has bench top presses for 69 bucks. A special tool is a one job tool.

A press is a basic tool, so is a torque wrench. He showed an easy workaround for the tensioner tool. He didn’t even use a lift table or jack.

Thanks, I agree that they are basic tools as well, sorry for delay in the response been covered up trying to get done with a vid.

That footage was from the rear chain tensioner replacement that I did on my heratage. Just used it to show cam swap because u have to remove the cams to change it. When you get new cams they come with new bearings so the bearing retainer needs to be removed to press the bearings out plus removal of the retainer is easy just 4 bolts and I don't run the risk of bending the retainer. You can't see it well in the video but I have the plate supported in three places with blocks of wood to prevent damage to the plate.

Thank you