Out of all the videos I have watched and even my suzuki repair Manuel they do not explain when putting back the stem to pay attention to the stem lock cut out mad respect for this guy

Awesome video. This will be on my winter project list. I’ll tackle a bunch of stuff at once. Tires brakes and all when it’s apart.

2 things. I've never had to use a press to remove the lower bearing from the shaft, they might not always come off easily, but they aren't a press fit. And I never would replace a bearing without replacing the races too.

Most complete and helpful video I've seen about this part of a Dyna!

Thanks for the how to vid. Doing mine this weekend. You made it look simple.

Great video -- thanks for posting. Steering-head bearings never even manage to make a single revolution and have very different operating conditions compared to wheel bearings (tapered-roller wheel bearings require END-PLAY, while steering-head bearings must be PRELOADED). With that in mind, the following excerpt from Timken Tech Tips, Vol. 7, Issue 2 provides some general background info w.r.t. tapered-roller bearings: "Timken recommends that the mating of components, the cup and cone, be from the same manufacturer. It is also recommended to change both components at the same time. Because the old component has a distinct pattern worn into its raceway, mixing it with a new mating component may set up edge stresses along the races. Following are the technical reasons that parts from various bearing manufacturers should not be mixed: • Incompatible internal bearing profile. • Overall bearing width difference due to tolerance differences. • Bearing rating differences. • Surface finish variations due to different manufacturing processes and technology. • Steel quality and cleanliness variations. • Steel processing and steel type variations. • Variances in worldwide bearing manufacturing quality. Mixing components from multiple manufacturers may seem insignificant, but it can make a big difference when it comes to correctly fitting parts together. International standards only mandate that the same part numbers have the same basic outside diameter, bore and width and cup angle, allowing the internal geometries and characteristics to vary from manufacturer to manufacturer." The bearing cone is mounted onto the steering stem with a light interference fit, and the inner race can be separated from the stem by application of heat once the cage and rollers are removed. The interference fit between the stem and the triple clamp is much tighter. Separation and reassembly of interference-fitted parts by purely mechanical means (without applying differential heating) can weaken that fit.

I would most definitly change out the bearing races with the ones the new bearings came with, crucial.

This is the best video on how to do this on KZfaq.

Good video! Maybe give torque specs for us guys that don’t have a service manual or are just lazy and would rather just come to a video to hear them .

Thanks for sharing this with us. Straight to the point

it blows me way that you guys only have 701 subscribers, your videos are so informative and perfectly edited. I came here from hoonigans page when you were helping them with the yellow sporty, and instantly subscribed. you guys are awesome! keep doin' what your doin' guys!

Depending on what you guys have laying around the shop I'd love to see a straight forward comparison of different bars on Dynas. Mine came with 16'' apes, a little too big for me and I've been researching for a few days to find something I like and think will fit via photos. Be cool to have someone install and demonstrate different sizes and styles. Drags, pullbacks, mini apes etc.

Best i have seen. No bullshit.

There are really no other good front to back tutorials for this. My bike has the death wobbles anything past 60mph right now. I'm glad this video got posted

Great video. Very good teacher

I like your products TrackerDie 🤘🏻 keep up the good work!

I came here for the hammer and punch. Stayed for the “oh shit. Fucked it!” Thanks for posting this. Helped me immensely tonight.

This is a gem!

Nice video. Thanks for posting it.

Good information. I’ve had my xl12 for 4 years now and I’m thinking this is the problem that mine is having. Had a shop replace the front wheel bearing. They didn’t even look at the steering head bearing. Got the bike back (after 3.5 weeks 😡) still shakes like Michael J. Fox. I want to do it myself so I know it’s done right but I don’t have all the equipment to do so. So I’m left with a dilemma, I really don’t want to shell out a fuck load of cash to have this done and I don’t want to take it back to the shop that did the wheel bearing in fear that something is going to go wrong. I guess I’m not looking for an answer I’m just venting. Thanks for the video again. Dirty side down!

There actually is a measurement in the Harley manual for fall-away, it calls for 2-4" from center left/right at the point of falling on it's own. Though I don't find that to be necessary, your method is just as well. Whoever setup my bike didn't do the fall away properly, when I removed my triple trees for PC and suspension upgrades the adjustment nut was handy loose. My lower bearing was also not a press fit, assuming from excess wear from the neck adjustment being overly loose. Good vid!

First vid I've seen of yours, and I was very impressed. Love watching professionals work on Harley's. Look forward to more - sub'd and liked. 👍

Cool video Man! I'm thinking to change my front wheel from my 883 Sportster for something more wide... Do you have some advice? I know that a have to replace for a bigger fork... But now I think that maybe only a have to change the triple trees... What is your opinion?

what about servicing forks seals and springs on a 750 street rod with inverted tubes..Thanks!

Thanks for showing this

This is Quality content!!

is there any chance to damage the threads when you press the steam?

Muy buen video. Me gustaria preguntarte si esto podria ser la causa de las vibraciones de mi manillar. Gracias

Nice video & explaining ✌🏼🥰

Any idea on how to remove the bottom bearing on a 77’ xlh1000. As the steering stem is welded to the bottom triple tree

Can I use that method on road glide? What’s the torque settings?

Thanks for taking the time to post this helpful video.

Now I just have to buy a hydraulic press and it's done. Perfect tip!

i did this job on a 2008 and 2015 and didnt have to press out the steam on either jobs. the lower bearing was on there snug but not hard at all. you can pry it off with some patience or use some heat, after about an inch its in the clear. this should save you some time if youre doing at home.

Great informative video chaps. Cheers for that. Doing this this weekend on my 14 Lowrider.

I've been told NOT to press out the stem. Cant even get a stock stem without getting it already installed with the lower tree..AND my bottom bearing came right up the stem and off. No problem...went on just as easy..2013 FXDWG. My problem, getting position of upper clamp over the rounded star nut adjuster correct with the bottom..

Makes me want to change mine, so informative!!

Yeah it was a nice video I don't know why you didn't change the out the races anyway or even mentioned that the races are supposed to be punched down all the way to the metal rim inside the neck before you do all that so I did learn quite a bit I just tore down my whole front end of my 2006 Dyna FX DLI and I found out that the new triple trees that broke and the new bearings the top race and the bearing are rusted and pitted but both bearings are not pressed down all the way into the frame so maybe you should mention that on a video and somebody didn't line up that neck bolt the lock for the neck when they put it in so that was a very informative I really like that cuz I got to put this thing back together and I don't like going through a Bible it's for one page way back over to another page so these videos are very informative and I appreciate it so that's what I learned and now I got to find a press to do my new bearings and I need to knock out those races to get some new races put in and I will be tapping them down to the edge of the lip where they're supposed to go this is JD all northern and southern California and they call me John and Reno Nevada I appreciate that video like I said I learned a lot

The bottom Allen bolt that you tightened at the end what is it’s purpose?? Thanks guys. Video was great!

Thanks guys - doing the bearing this weekend - appreciate the vid

What was the diameter and the length of that pipe? Or is it a special tool? What should the cost be if I brought it in to a shop?

Where can I get one of those blocks with the speed holes in it for press fitting bearings etc?

Man you guys make me want to get a bike so bad

How long does it take from start to finish?

Hello! can you tell me the easiest way to install this product Fork Cup Set, 3 Degree Rake, 2004- Up Harley XL Sportsters form Vulcan engineering company?

Good shit bro beans... im at mmi doing the same thing! Thanks for the extra help

Excellent video, my Dyna has 61k , I don't think Harley did anything at 30K? So I will just change them out. thanks again.

How big a press does one need for this (length wise)??

What’s this procedure cost to have done in a shop (ballpark)?

What about changing the bearings in a softail swing arm? And tork specs for bolts on this job

Thank you!! This is exactly what I needed. I’m assuming this process is very similar for the Street Glide, right?

Great video

Will this help with death wobbles ?

When I say" ohhh Fuck" its usually a major fuck up...lol Great vid with lots of great info

Wht would you guess a good independant shop would charge to change the neck bearings and races on 2009 Low Rider?

well done. thanks!

dope content bro. currently troubleshooting a speed wobble issue. i think ill do this in the coming week and see if this takes care of it.

Dude. Your instructions are really great, you're far better at intelligent instruction than most DIY Harley videos, videography is great, but did I miss something? You only changed out 66.6% of the bearings!!! Unless I missed it, you left the old outer races in the frame's head tube...??? I'm trying to figure out how to remove them from an '86 FXR, with a massive 3/8" thick head tube aka neck, whose i.d. is smaller than the i.d. of the outer races pressed into the frame!!! Not like some of the hourglass looking neck tubes on most Harley videos where you can catch the underside of the pressed in frame side outer races with a race puller or drift punch. I'm going to dremel a notch into the frame on the frame spine welded-on side, as this won't compromise the neck tube ANY since there's a massive tube welded to it from the outside to support it. With this notch, I'll be able to get a drift punch under it. ALWAYS change the outer races unless you're just just changing the lower bearing to put a new rubber-type seal under it. If the bearing is worn, the race is equally worn. Replace it ALL if ANY of the parts are bad, as they ALL WEAR TOGETHER... Bearings worn & notchy? Races are worn in a corresponding way... Even if only on a micro level. Dont mix & match worn vs new assembly pieces. It's a matched assembly, replace it all together...

Came across this vid.. Awesome work! Thank you. Subscribed.

Those neck bearings were badly worn , I would have definitely replace the bearing races . If anyone wants to know how to correctly check the Fall away , Doc harley has a very helpful video checking the Fall away on Dyna's and large touring bikes , Otherwise Good video .

Am from Nigeria and most of the tools use may not be available, is there any easier Way

For everyone commenting on not replacing the race, I submit that if it was on a rotating wheel, yes; on a steering head not necessary unless pitted or rusty. You'll never wear out a race on a steering head!

Great video, short sweet and to the point, not an endless amount of bullshit chatter, self promotion, general stupidity... thank you for that!

Who makes that pipe used to press out the stem and bearings?

Is this task more of a pain in the butt on a 2012 Harley Tri Glide?

Need to see how seals were installed

How much would this cost at a Harley dealer. How often do you need tp do this

Not one torque wrench?

Thanks for the video , I will be doing mine this winter ...

OMG! Thank YOU! You just saved me.

Do one on motor mounts please

1st, you guys should say what year and model your working on. 2nd, You could say some steering shafts are welded so just take bearing and Race out. 3rd, We ruined a Triple Tree welded in shaft on a press the shaft was weldwd and does not cone off... Down for 2 weeks and found aftermarket steel one not aluminum.

Aaron Visuals?

There’s definitely a measurement for fall away lol

I was told by a tech that I’ll have to change mine soon. This made me confident I can do most of the work myself except for the press because I don’t have one. Thanks guys.

Tapered bearings are what my old cars use. You supposed to torque and rotate wheel clockwise and then backoff and retorque with inch lb. You cant do that on a bike so i guess thats why the don't last.

Great videos guys. Very useful info. Can you do a video on aligning a Dyna engine. I have a 09 stage 3 110 and after replacing my failed front engine mount I have more vibration. Would be good to know proper alignment procedure.

Bigger cam and other power how to’s?

I got one I have 89 fxstc! I haven’t seen a video on start to finish beat remotely and replace! Breaking down swing rear and bolts and start removal! Thank you

u don't need to press the stem or bearing

Awesome video guys, very informative needs more torque settings though I’ve gotta look up the service manual for the settings now

Enjoyed that, good video, good teacher. :-)

Damn good teacher

Always put in new races with new bearings, come on.

show us a bike that needs the steering adjusted and the process in doing so

Excellent but I would use super lube on my bike

Bearing number ?

You didn't replace the Sleeves inside the neck...

DO NOT USE HIGH SPEED GREASE ON THE NECK BEARING AND YOU HAVE TO LEARN HOW TO HANDLE BEARINGS. YOUR HOME WORK LET ME KNOW SO I DO NOT DO THAT WRONG.

3:45 🤣

block tube

Hell yeh

You guys still in business or??

Do you guys pay any attention to your emails or people needing customer service.....ive tried MULTIPLE times to get ahold about an order i got charged for but wont provide any reason as to why i got charged but arent sending me my part or even responding....last time you guys get my business...

wrong,wrong,wrong. always change the race and bering as a set, for they area matched at the factory or Mfg. good review

You forgot to show race removal

Change the races.

The reason I watched this was to see how to replace the bearing case outers, to me you should be replacing the whole bearing, I wouldn't be putting my bike in your shop.

Not changes the races is false economy. Always replace the bearing set.

LEARN HOW TO USE A TORQUE WRENCH MAN...