Man thank you for keeping revolvers alive and being the greatest revolver channel out there your channel is very factual and precise also man get a gp100😂 lol

Hmmm ... No idea how that happened but hopefully not something about censoring firearm related channels

Why have they done this to you?

Why have they done this to you?

WTH, you just test ammo. SMH

That was Very Generous of That Person!!

Yeah, I use the second joint swoop type pull on a lot of handguns I have. Seems to work.

Thanks for posting that... I guess I'm going to need to try THAT!

Interesting!!

Are you talking about a wax and dry spray wax, like Turtle Wax makes? Or a synthetic spray polish like Mothers?

I have opened it up on videos before, just not here. And you are right, it's a once in a year thing so I felt no need to show it. I have honestly went several years with some of my revolvers without opening it up and when I do, it's fine. That is one reason I like Ballistol better than this CLP. When I would open it up, I could just spray it in there and it was like it had a drying effect all while it was lubing it, if that makes sense. Then I would just flip it, let it all drain out and dry as much as possible with Q-tips. I hate removing all the action parts as by the end of it I am on KZfaq trying to remember how that damn rebound spring goes in or some other problem lol

Thanks. I used to use Simonize chrome polish on my cylinder face which worked good, then as you see I have turtle wax brand which doesn't do all that well. I been meaning to get Mother's as it's been recommended to me for years, I just always end up brush cleaning my revolvers so I keep putting off trying it.

You can setup your bore brushes upwards, in the back. Oh, why not, we'll put a bunch more vertical brushes in the back like little trees so they aren't alone.

@@GunSam 😂

Thanks. It's just one man's method. Results may vary.

I have heard of them, but never tried them. My workaround is I basically never shoot lead ammo. It's rare for me. Even if I am wanting to do some high volume shooting, i'll go with plated or even XTP bullets and loads them myself to offset the cost. I hate lead ammo in general because of lead chunks that build up.

@@GunSam it just works great on the burn marks. I have used it, before I started shooting any lead

I feel in some regards cleaning revolvers is easier, for the fact I know it's clean. With Glocks and other black semi autos, you can't see the grit and nasty stuff around all the parts in the polymer grip. Yes I can 'clean' a semi auto faster, but all I really did was clean the slide okay, mostly clean the barrel etc.

@@GunSam After using two Glock models for work, I can get them really clean

I used Hoppe's 9 for years. I always got the feeling that it was eating away at something, so I decided to go with an all in one cleaning oil instead. I used to take apart my SP101 all the time but I haven't owned it in some time to remember the process.

@@GunSam Evidently most gun cleaning solvents are mineral spirits.

TERRIBLE IDEA FOR REVOLVERS! Not all of the interior clockwork parts are stainless steel! You want rusty clockworks?.............................elsullo

@elsullo2 All his service guns were semi-automatic. He said he never had an issue in all the years he cleaned them that way. This was back in the 80's and 90's.

I grew up with Fuds in the family, friend's dad's were Fuds and all of that. They rarely had handguns, but always, I mean always they had it down pact that you use Hoppe's number 9, and when you are done you used Hoppe's oil or Rem oil and that's just how it was. So I took what I knew growing up and for years did solvent and then oil. I never used mineral spirits, just the gun solvent and oils. Now I did learn many years ago from a father in law I had, that WD-40 makes a great all around bore and surface cleaner, as long as it's wiped off and a higher viscosity oil is used on moving parts like normal gun oil.

@@GunSam I believe at least on S&W Armorer has said that Hoppe's #9 is mineral spirits with a perfume in it, maybe one or two other proprietary ingredients, but mostly mineral spirits.

@@GunSam I take it, then, that since you use CLP and Ballistol these days, that you have not seen any detriment to using all-in-ones? And yes, I guess I qualify as a Fud. ;)

Thanks be to your father-in-law for pointing out what a BAD LUBRICANT/Rust-proofer that WD-40 is! I used to use it for everything, but then saw a shovel blade sprayed heavily RUST OVERNIGHT!....................elsullo@@GunSam

Scandium really isn't much different than regular aluminum alloy. Typically they are coated in either clear of black coatings. I would be gentle with brushes, use only nylon. You may want to use a solvent and then oil to reduce scrubbing. If it were me i'd just lube it up really good with Ballistol or CPL and scrub with a nylon brush, just do the best I can. Edit....I said CPL and not CLP lol. Here in MI our carry permits are called CPL's "concealed pistol license" so I do use that term a lot in forums.

@@GunSam Thank you. Good liuck and stay safe!

I haven't ever lost a screw myself. If I am doing a whole sideplate I put them in a cardboard template I made with holes, but grip screw or cylinder screw I don't do anything special with. I got no air vents on the floor where I clean them at lol

@@GunSam I put the screws and other tiny parts in the cap from the spray can so I know where they are when it comes time to reassemble.

3:18

Yeah, but haven't found it anywhere for a year or two. I like it better because knowing it's less toxic, I spend more time on cleaning, just use excess Ballistol and elbow grease. With CLP I do hurry a bit more to wash my hands as I cannot wear rubber gloves and hold things properly.

Depends on the use. I might say that for an average citizen, a good revolver takes away a lot of the things that can go wrong with a semi auto. Makes more sense in a lot of ways. For cops, a semi auto is way better for what they face. The problem is most citizens who carry think that it's daily commonplace for a normal citizen involved shooting to be John Wick/John McClain style, when that's just fantasy. Knowing you have six reliable shots trumps all that you have to do to make sure your semi auto runs right with hollow point ammo. I would say from talking to most people on KZfaq, they run a couple boxes of FMJ through their pistols, 'confirm' how reliable it is then use some form of JHP in a +P to carry in the gun. I feel there's a lot that can go wrong with that type of routine.

I say, IMHO, that a .38 Special +P revolver is best. The .357 Mag simply kicks like a mule, except with VERY heavy guns, and hurts many peoples' hands! Their hand learns to expect pain and flinches when pulling the trigger, throwing off their aim. "Bullet placement trumps bullet power!" I carry a .32 H&R Magnum revolver for a precision aim, AND a .38 Special +P for power. Yes, both.........................elsullo

I have never tried on personally.

An aluminum or brass rod cannot damage the crown or barrel made from steel. That is an old wives tale.

@@curly__3 i'm pretty sure it can still damage it. While logically it makes sense a softer metal cannot damage a harder metal, lead bullets can still penetrate mild steel. You do anything enough and it can cause wear.

@@curly__3 lol, ok a bullet made of lead can punch a hole through steel, you only have to mar the crown slightly at the point of departure to degrade accuracy.

@@GunSam They work but it takes more passes and is not as good as a brush on a rod for stubborn copper or lead fouling I soak the whole snake in number 9 and run it through and let it sit then run a cleane snake or pull patches through from the chamber end and light oil on final patch..

Um, no.

I have never used the cloths because when I really got into cleaning revolvers, it was a time in my life where I had one, one stainless revolver. Couldn't even afford to buy much ammo. So I came up with various methods over the years and found that one product like CLP or Ballistol is easier and simpler. The brushes are everywhere, basic Hoppe's brushes that are at all sports stores, like around me Dunham's has them, or whatever part of the country/type of chain stores wherever you are will have them.

The reason why I brought it up is because for $7.00 you get two 6"x9" cloths that work great and can be used over & over being cheaper than the CLP and making the face of the cylinder less prone to fouling in the future. Nice video. @@GunSam