Thanks!

Yeah, I like the information... these other channels are more like news interviews and mhd burbles

What did it end up being ?

I get the same drivetrain malfunction at low speed mostly and very rarely long cranks, no misfire. What should I do? The errors I get is fuel mixture and fuel plausibility. Any help ?

@@DLaVey Check you High Pressure Fuel Rail measurements with a scanner in live stream. Should be idling at about 700psi from a cold start. When warmed if you rev it and you suddenly get a Drive Train error check if the pressure dropped to 100psi. If so that means you High Pressure Fuel pump is failing and needs to be replaced!

@@MrLaloman18 just check both low pressure sensor and rail pressure both good, today I also got limp mode and drivetrain malfunctin at 30 km/h , the only code I have is 29E1, 0x29E1 mixture control 2, nothing else.

@@DLaVey DME: Mixture control 2 Fuel Control System 'A' Too Lean at Idle (Bank 2) Fault Impact Voltage condition: - Electrical system voltage > 10 V Temperature condition: - Ambient temperature > -10 °C Time condition: - None Other conditions: - Engine on - Adaptation active none The fault is recognized when the mixture for Bank 2 is too lean and the adaptation limit (25...30 %) is exceeded for 40 sec. Potential problem source(s): - HFM defective - Leakage in induction tract - Leak in exhaust system - Catalytic converter clogged - Defective injector - Defect in high-pressure system I would smoke test the engine for air leaks, clean MAF sensor, clean Vanos solenoids, vents, etc....

I am having this issue as well. Did you ever resolve? Strange thing is, if I put into sport mode, I can get great acceleration so I am wondering how the HPFP could be failing if it performs like that if no limp mode is initiated after start.

I just learnt N55 E series doesn't have the low fuel pressure sensor.

Did u ever solve this? Having the exact same symptoms as you were. It’d be much appreciated for an update, thanks

@@corbin4258 I sold my car couple of months ago. But after I replaced my starter, the issue seemed to have resolved. Atleast it wasn't that bad. So if your starter is old, you want to check that out. That's heck of a job though.

Congrats

Hey thanks for the feedback. I actually wasn't running an MHD tune at the time of this video so didn't have that option turned on. Now I'm running Stage 2+ but don't want the burble anyway.

Did you code your battery? Did you swap battery type from AMG? Did you fix your issue. I replaced my Alternator Regulator and my failing battery got about a 1 1/2 months before it left me stranded @ Advanced Auto lucky. I had long cracks sometime before I replaced battery. The Battery health is VERY important. Is the alternator charging your battery?

From what I've read as long as it stays above 50 PSI at WOT you're okay.

@@VehicularDIY please i need to ask a question im running mhd stage 2 plus and i do have all the upgrades i need for the stage 2

But the problem i have is i drive normal its normal when i gas the car or down shift to go faster the rpm go higher and it throw transmission lights and loss power i try all maps its same i have automatic transmission so every time i wanna pull or acceleration more it does transmission light

matreyia have you done the basics? Coils, plugs, vacuum lines, wgdc logs?

If you made a list of big and small parts, interior, exterior, any system major or minor...99% of the items on this list would have been replaced. It is literally a new car. Does that mean there's a new transmission and engine (not rebuilt) with new turbos and hoses and radiator etc?? Yep. How about weird stuff like wheel bearings, hubs, axials, suspension parts...shocks, m3 arms, ...i could go on and on...but yeah, even interior parts.

Hmm I don't think it's a mapping issue on my car as the tune I was running was solid for a good 2.5 years.

Thank you, I still use MHD for datalogging yes.

Hey I don't have a video on how to code them out, I was thinking of custom coding them to spread out a bit more. Why do you want to code them off, is yours acting up?

Vehicular DIY Yes they've quit moving side to side due to the left light not reading, but still Autolevel

You would want to replace the Teflon seal at the very least while testing.

That reading of 80PSI is coming from your sensor...what your sensor THINKS the pressure is. It either means that you truly have 80psi in the line because your fuel pump is pushing too much fuel, or it means that your sensor is bad and THINKS there is 80PSI in the line. The DME targets a pressure of 72.5psi, which is more than adequate for the car's demands. There is no good reason for the pressure to be much higher. If the sensor reads higher than 72.5PSI, the fuel pump will be told that it can back off a bit, resulting in the actual pressure in your line being lower than 72.5. In my case, my sensor was reading as high as 88+ PSI, which eventually caused the engine to stall, because, in reality, there was far less pressure than what the sensor said. I changed the sensor, and now my pressure reads pretty steady at 72.5.

Does the idle bounce around constantly?

@@VehicularDIY mine does this constantly. Any ideas?

Did you fix this issue

These are the codes if intrested: Cylinder 1,2and3 misfire. Cylinder injection cutout, fuel high pressure system. Fuel low pressure system sensor (electric).

Edd Baloja Baloja you need a new starter

so was the "reset" all you needed?

This has been fix 3 years ago... It ended up being the High Pressure Fuel Pump ($500 - $700 new). The high pressure and low pressure sensors must also be replaced. These 2 sensors are very cheap and must be OEM as well. I have fix lot's of things on my F10 M-Sport as I just did the motor and transmission mounts, all professionally done by me with all the proper tools, all original OEM parts and torque specs to every bolt and nuts. Need to know anything else about the F10 let me know as I'm about to replace the complete driveshaft brand new USA made, with German Meyle HD flex disc "guibos" and differential mounts as well the proper way! @@RussianAudiFILMS

The LPF sensor is known to go bad (vibration, heat, years worth of fuel), and according to people on the forums, it is more likely to fail than the HPFP and LPFP. The LPF sensor is relatively cheap ($50 - 150 depending on whether you get it as a kit), so it is worth trying. It should have been replaced when you replaced the HPFP, because it sits right next it. Replacing it is not technically hard, it's just a bit of a PITA because you have to remove your air intake manifold to get to it. It takes about 1 - 2 hours depending on how quick you are with your tools. My LPF sensor failed (i believe), and my symptoms were: slight stumble at idle for a month or so, then, completely out of nowhere, at a red light, the car stalled and refused to start. When I let it cool down for about 20 minutes, I could get it to start again for about 1 - 2 minutes. Checking the codes, I got a 29DC, 6292, and 6293. The first basically says that the cylinder injection was shut off; the other two report over current and under voltage to the fuel supply. I checked my EKPM and it was the newer version and nothing looked fried. So, I checked the fuel pressure at idle (when it would allow me to start), and it was reading unsteady and upwards of 88psi...then it stumbled and stalled. Getting it started again, it would bounce all over from 60 - 88psi. My theory is that the sensor was reading a higher value than what was really there and reduced the voltage signal to the LPFP, starving the engine. I replaced the low pressure sensor (walnut blasted the intakes while in there) and now the pressure holds steady at 72.5psi. There is a slight variance when stepping on the gas, but the DME is supposed to target 72.5psi. I haven't taken the car out for a drive yet, but i let it idle for 30 minutes...still holding around 72.5, no indication that it was going to stall. If you have the skills and tools: replace your sensor and clean your valves while you're at it. The two aren't really related, but you must expose your valves to get to the LPF sensor. It seems that you've pretty much replaced everything else, and despite what others say, your low pressure should not be erratic.

@@jlwagner79 this helps a lot, since asking i serviced injectors again and still nothing. so the readings being off because of the sensor makes sense. and if it reads wrong, it sends the wrong input therefore making it gasp for more. thanks a lot boss!

Hey what was the issue? I'm having the same code and problem. Thanks

@@ddrive1022 i managed to get the car started by priming the fuel pump about 6 times before starting. (Put car in accessory, wait for all lights to go off, pull key out, open and close door, repeat). But after i got the car started it it idled like a rotary 13b, purely electrical issue not mechanical. Months later i figured out i had a few melted wires which ended up blowing some fuses. One of the greatest mechanics ever fixed it for $550 (charged $125/hour).

@@PR0bro Dang, that's a tough find. I figured my problem out, I mixed the fuel pump and fuel level sensor cables at the pump, after a turbo replacement, they are identical. Glad you got it sorted. Cheers.

No. But burning hella oil would.

Pcv valve

I would think so.

Yeah I got one with the same problems too

I got em back when they were about $800 or a set of six

I don't believe so as I've been running this tune for a number of years.

Did you solve problem ?

@@JustinGotsVlogs yes it was fuel regulator and HPFP

I literally just had this issue on my 2007 335i. I replaced the HPFP and the car now runs, but I cannot get rid of the P142E code. I'm idling at 700rpm instead of 600rpm, but I'm not going to be anal about that. I also keep having a misfire in cylinder 4, I'll replace the spark plug and it will go away, but give it two weeks and it returns. I just bought the low fuel pressure sensor, but not installed it yet. Hopefully this sensor fixes all the issues I've been fighting with for the past 4 months...

Would a crankshaft sensor remedy this problem?

How did you solve the problem

Holy cow! Is that at idle? Have you replaced the sensor? It is quite common for them to fail with age. My 535xi started stalling at idle. Fuel pressure was erratic and upwards of 88+ psi. I replaced the fuel pressure sensor and the pressure is now steady at 72.5-ish...no stalling, problem apparently solved. Did you end up resolving the problem? (I realize i'm replying 2 years later)

Hey, re-encoding the module in NCS Expert or clearing transport mode in DIS comes to mind. Do you know if you may have left your car in the on position before pulling the battery cable? I'm in the Katy area, what part of Houston are you in?

Vehicular DIY I don't think it was in the on position. I live in the galleria area but I don't mind going to Katy. Would you be able to tell what was wrong with it if you plugged in ncs expert?

It may be possible to scan the module for codes using DIS, only DIS can clear transport mode as far as I know. With regards to scanning using NCS Expert, NCS Expert is for coding to scan you would use INPA. Your car has the CIC idrive so I'd have to double check that my software is compatible, what year is your car.

Vehicular DIY it is a 2006. Thank you so much, I appreciate you helping me.

So the car has been upgraded to CIC navigation? Was that done before you got the car?