Or wd 40

i don't think anyone should pliers or wrenches on their nuts

YAWN

Jeff Bicht shut up old man

@@robh.3124 Lmao 😂

100 % correct. Use the correct tool for the job.

What name of a good 4 stroke kit motor wise

How are you doing, I see your video was published long time ago, I got a question: What is the right name of a new crank shaft you use on approximately 4:40 in your video? Is it threaded 3 ps crank shaft? Thank you.

Always glad to help.

Gosh

Right😆

+Ryan K hes working for bikeberry now!!!

Duh

@Cornel Rusu IKR, he's more like Bette Midler's grandnephew

Well hes gotta tow kip into town somehow

I would think that motor shelf might get in be way of the derailleur mount. If the crank has to be replaced to allow for the thickness of the engine and mount to clear the sprocket then I see it being a problem

I tried that, and my bike stalls at idle because it grips. Yes, I played with the idle speed, but couldn’t get it to stop so I put the springs back in.

you really just gotta bend them a little. there’s a video on here that shows that pretty sure.

+ColtWKnight the chain that comes in the kit was way longer than I needed for 26s. it should be long enough easily for a 29 were only talking about 3 inches of chain-----my 26 inch build I had about ohhh 5 inches left after I cut it where I needed it you should be good bro

+Omar Coronado the bike gears and the gear the motor pulls are on opposite sides so it should make no difference

Sure, a public service showing how not to do the job.

+Kk Andretti DID IT WORK???? I need to know!!!!---like,.. quickly because im about to buy THAT bike and do the same thing THIS WEEK-----did it work????

+Anthony Storey you might need to add a spring where the throttle cable connects to the carb to keep the bike from idling higher.

+Anthony Storey The carb has a small screw that regulates the idle speed, so try reducing the idle speed (You'll need to have the engine turned on to verifiy that it won't move) If this doesn't work, you might want to put in a centrifugal clutch between the engine and the shaft that drives the wheels, which will keep the wheels stopped when on idle or low speed, and with the sole speed of the flywheel, the clutch engages and wheels spin

I fixed the problem it was the way the throttle cable was set up it was pulling the throttle on the carb making it stay engaged but its fixed now

Check the idle screw on the carburetor

shindukess i'v been looking also and been contacting ebay sellers but no-one has them.

Google sick bike parts. They have shift kits.

shindukess yes sick bike parts has them for this engine just check if your transmission is compatible

+DownhillGadd investigate your clutch pads. probably got touched by oil or grease somewhere along the line, OR, it isn't making a flat to flat surface against the inside of the outer bell they also have a break in period and some have paint in there that needs to be rubbed burnt off

+Cassie G You might have to play around with the carb's idle speed, so try winding or unwinding the limit screw that stops the regulator valve. A 4 stroke will give you a lot less power output because of how its been designed since forever (Contains heavy counterweights, that have to be there so the engine doesn't stop when its not on the ignition stroke, so those will steal quite some power). If the problem persists, you may be locking down the engine when the wheels are stopped, on which i would recommend you to install a centrifugal clutch, in between the wheel's gear and the engine's power output gear, and this clutch will do, is that it won't engage the engine on low revs, and when climbing up engine rpm, clutch engages and the wheel will start spinning

Not on the stock mount the 4-stroke 48cc comes with, but I believe it can for the Heavy Duty Mount: www.bikeberry.com/engine-kit-parts/4-stroke-parts/heavy-duty-4-stroke-mount-plate.html We are currently out of stock of it though. It should be available again in the next 1-2 weeks.

wonderful design

You're welcome, Murat!

thx for add this video its realy charming and diffrence good design

Lk4ahro I would say a honda 4 stroke, also keep spare parts

+Chris Geoffrey The braking logic you are thinking about is called a coaster brake, on the rear wheel, there is an arm connected to a plate. That is it. It is typically on a clutch, too. You can always add caliper brakes. Those are easy as well. I recommend both kinds of brakes, just in case. It'd suck if you couldn't stop at 45 going down a hill. In an intersection. Also, if you are using a cruiser, you may need to remove the mudguards to apply the caliper brakes.

+Gage Justice- ok Ty Gage, I'll remember that. I did have a different ?. I have a 49 cc engine Ifrom a 'X-treme 350' style scooter I was thinking of using as the power source for this new huffy of mine. I don't have dinensions of actual motor, but, if you yourself are familiar with those "X-Treme" products, you may've seen what I'm talking about. I think they only hit like 30-35mph anyways, but, again, never having a gas powered bike but being interested enough to maybe create 1, I found this channel. I'm kind of hoping the dimensions work to just mount it the way I've seen others, which usually doesn't include putting on some kind of back carraige just to mount a motor (would be where a basket might go, we'll say, right near the back reflector). Only things now I'd need to get/find out are chain for back tire going into motor (its already compatible it seems with a chain, since that's what drives this x-treme scooter I've had sitting around, the brakes U mentioned, and what I can use the electric battery thats on the scooter for, like, maybe rigging up a front lamp & some kind of turn signals ( was an udea I mentally was playing with, trying to make the finished product more safe if I drive it @ night, bike is pretty dark in color on its own). Once I get started, I may do youtube of it since I have a channel

+Gage Justice-P.S. even though U don't really talk about it here, Thank God for the nice, thick seat thats on this huffy cruiser bike!! I never liked the other type of seats. The one on the bike in this video has one I'd eventually find uncomfortable. I can't think of style names for seats except "banana". The one I have is wgat one'd find on a "crusher" style bike

Chris Geoffrey Yes, the wide ones are the best. I am not too sure of the names of the specifics, but I do know what you're talking about. Huffy is pretty good - heavy as hell, but the nuts, bolts, clamps and gear joints are pretty much all the same size: 16mm or 10mm. It's crazy helpful. The mudguards are also a HUGE plus, especially after a rainy day.

+Chris Geoffrey is SADDLE the word youre looking for?

+Raishon Bodrick The reason why it is poorly rated is because people who don't do research buy it, and then complain that it won't fit.

MrWillis5719 You need to do a video on your bike Steve.

How did you find out ? Lol

MrWillis5719 Unfortunately our boost bottle are no compatible with the 4-stroke kits (without fabricating your intake).

No problem, I drilled and taped so I am using it as we speak.

Is this regarding a 2-stroke engine? The 4-stroke is a centrifugal clutch, so you don't have to pop it in. If you're talking about the 2-stroke, careful when popping your clutch. The torque tends to stress the small bevel wheel and with enough force from a harsh clutch release, it can cause hairline fractures on the small bevel wheel. I recommend opening up the clutch case cover (The tear drop case cover) and checking for any particular damage or obstruction within the gear and clutch. Also check for any metal grindings because a harsh clutch engagement can cause undesired realignment with the two gears in the clutch cover. Hope this helps!

i'll try that. thanks!