good job Baron...I used your method to do my gov spring job...way easier and faster than I first thought...15 minutes and done!...wow, really woke up my truck!

Wow... easier than I thought! Thanks for the springs!!!

Great video guys 👍

Great Job !

Nice one, very helpful 😉

I just did this method on my 96 but I bent and stuck a playing card between the springs and the pump case no fear of dropping any parts into the abyss..

Really appreciate the videos, but after talking to Tim and Griffeth, I now know that the 180 pump I have is much more tempermental than I realized and would be great if you guys could make a video in regards to how to do the more technical install for those. Not hating on your team one bit just frustrating farting around with the springs just to find out I potentially have the tension wrong after installing by following your instructions. Thank you guys for all your help, trully appreciate it!!

I appreciate you!

When you're doing it in the truck remove left front inner Fender and tire can get right to it

Could a bypass oil filter (fine/small micron, soot filter) be used to feed the turbo? If so How big could they handle?

another great and helpful video

You guys ever tune a 6AT Turbo Cummings?? Im looking for mileage, and more power if possible .

Hi I have cuestion governor spring is universa? i have 1990 ford f700 6.6 and have to 1990 internarional 4700

Question so why does you’re video say 3 clicks and you’re good but every other video says to measure it before unscrewing??

Is that a larry b's fss?

Hey Kids , For every action there is an equal and opposite reaction. I have owned an automatic transmission shop 40 years and been a mechanic even longer. I have a 12 valve with over 400,000 on it and best advice is Leave everything Factory original for reliability . If you want to go racing with your truck, be prepared to have things Break . PDD did mention changing the Valve springs to do 4K , if you have an automatic trans expect a shorter life and higher temperatures , you will need a Giant cooler, Dana makes one 46000 BTU's (universal fit) and it is used on all the newer 1 ton's ford and chevy (vehicle specific) . It may be too thick to fit in factory location so mount it behind the bumper . After you Blow your transmission up from all those RPM's don't forget to Remove the One Way check valve in the cooler line near the radiator or it will self destruct right after a rebuild . Buy a 3 clutch billet torque converter also

How do you know what's in your pump if somebody put a bigger governor spring sets in and already before you bought the truck or the engine what is the way to determine the difference between 3000 4000 and so on

So I bought a 3/4K spring kit from you last fall. Does the entire bunch install or do I need to remove a spring to make it either 3k or 4k? I installed the whole bunch as it came packaged/zip tied (well, obviously removed the zip ties haha). Did I make a mistake? I do have your 60# valve springs installed as well.

Boy if I had a nickel for every time the retainer or shims were dropped into a pump I'd have a drag truck built lol

With the increased revolutions to 4k, is there anything else that should be done/upgraded to deal with the extra strain?

Is it ok to just the click method instead of measuring it

What are people's thoughts on my plan to run a slightly smaller 58mm t3 turbo with a modified 67/67 he351 up tip?

What did you mean by in the truck you’ll see another set of springs like that and do it all over again? So you have to do that twice?? Like two different sets??

I have 4K springs in my truck and it feels like it misfires around 1100 rpms when driving almost like its chugging. After about 1300rpms it clears up and runs fine. Are the springs not adjusted correctly? Farrell diesel installed them after rebuilding the pump.

What is the purpose of the big outside spring?

Only 2 springs came out? I thought there was always 3 to remove

Cool video but you didn’t mention if you leave the shims in or take them out

Je connais pas comment la pompe fonctionne . mais je doit à prendre chez vous en commençant par quoi je connais français pas d'autre longue

Thinking about my comment got me thinking “Progressive shift” Term manufactures use on electronic engines Quite possibly why Mack Trucks used a 5 speed transmission in the 70’s Its about getting up to speed as fast as possible Lot of money went into developing progessive shift What the manufactures found is by shifting before rated rpm allows the vehicle up to speed sooner Think about it torque is what gets the vehicle moving taking a engine out to rated rpm whether stock or modified Take longer than using the torque in lower rpms When progressive shift is enabled on electronic engine as you take off the rpms start to climb then go flat at about 1600-1700 which forces the driver to do 2 things 1 shift 2 use the available torque The driver can stay in that gear but it will build rpm slowly Remember its about time time is money By forcing the driver to shift sooner gets the vehicle up to speed quicker Like short shifting Mack trucks did cross country test in the 70s their 5 speed against 12-13 speeds Results were obvious mack shifted thousands of gears selections less Sorry for the rambling Shift sooner get it up to speed sooner Torque gets the vehicle moving not hp

Ight well I feel like a dumb guy right now. I installed my gov springs and we couldn’t get the truck to idle. It would either kill its self or rev to 1,200. Totally missed the part about how to larger outside spring stays 😅. Don’t be like me guys😂

I installed the kit and #10 fuel plate. Now my truck will die when I put it in gear.

After installing my governor springs my truck runs great and fired right up perfectly, but it was idling at 1k. So I lowered the rpm to 800 and now it won’t start without a little throttle, how do I fix?

Why would someone want their engine to go to 4,000 rpm Ive owned my 97 since new 197,000 miles and hopefully many more miles to go Always used cummins blue and fleetguard filters valve adj every couple years (but never really needs anything adjusted more of a check)

3 clicks *goes in 4 clicks*

So y’all just count clicks and don’t use a micrometer to measure the shaft protrusion

There is no reason not to re use old shims