Thanks. The first time I heard it was on an episode of the Walking Dead and I was hooked.

I’m glad it helped and thanks for watching!

Yes it was but well worth it especially this time of year in Florida. It's nice having an air conditioned workshop to work in every day. Thanks for watching.

Thanks RM! The radiant barrier should face the exterior.

Thanks! My workshop is 25x30 with 10 ft ceilings. It took about 35 sheets for the walls and 30 sheet for the ceiling.

I used 1/2" T1-11 siding. I did a project video on the installation process, see below link. I'll also send you a link to some of the electrical wiring. On my channel I have videos on my complete shop renovation where I transformed my metal building into a rustic workshop. Feel free to reach out if you have any questions. Hope all this helps and thanks for watching. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/h6eBeMJhztGtqZs.html kzfaq.info/get/bejne/pbB5mbl-3KyngoU.html kzfaq.info/get/bejne/prKamKp7q523Xac.html

Good luck if you have any electrical modification/issues. Spray foam is soooo overpriced and overrated. If you have a replace a panel then you have to reapray.

It did and I would definitely recommend it. I think it will help the efficiency of the mini split system once I get it installed.

I used furring strips and screwed them to the trusses with self tapping screws to keep the panels in place and that has worked well for me. That way it leaves you the flexibility to add more panels in the future. Hope this helps and thank for watching.

You didn't mention if you measured the wall temp interior or exterior. It would make sense to me that the exterior would be warmer at the foam board as less heat is conducted to the interior.

Did you put the foam board against the metal siding or did you leave a gap?

I’m on an acre and a half so workshop noise for the neighbors not an issue. I installed it primarily for the cooling factor but there is some noise reduction benefit just not sure how many decibels. Hope this helped and thanks for watching!

No, I haven't had a condensation issue. I have about an inch gap and here in Florida I get enough air circulation to evaporate any moisture that might occur. I faced to foil backing outward to reflect the latent heat out of the workshop. If I lived up North I might would consider facing the foil backing inward to retain the latent heat inside the workshop.

@@TheEndGrainWorkshop yeah I hope so I'll put 2 mini splits for heat and ac I think air gap would help Idk about which way to face foil they recomend to face it outwards to make heat barrier and it will retain heat with proper heating...atleast that how they build houses in NY

Hey Woody, No I'm very pleased with how it came out. It was a huge improvement, just wished I would have done it sooner. Below is a link to my update video after two years. Thanks for watching! kzfaq.info/get/bejne/pLuodJWn2pfUhYU.html

Hey James, That's correct. Since this was for my workshop I encapsulated mine with T-111 siding. Below is a link to that video. Thanks for your feedback. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/h6eBeMJhztGtqZs.html

No I haven’t seen any issues with condensation yet. I live in a high humidity area Southwest Florida. I installed the foam board in the Fall so I really want know for sure how well it works until this Summer. I will be installing a Mr. Cool mini split system to condition the space which might help as well.

I did this the same way. We get some moist air but with the ribs in the exterior metal the air circulates enough to dry any out.

@@TheEndGrainWorkshop I am also in central florida, will be watching your progress )

@@TheEndGrainWorkshop So how did it hold up in summer?

@@txseashell It worked out better than expected. With just the rigid insulation the building was 5-7 degrees cooler than the outside temp. Before I installed the insulation it was the opposite, the building was 5-7 degrees hotter. Now that I've installed a diy Mr. Cool mini split unit installed it works great. Just wish I would have done this years ago.....

Yes, we are in Florida so snow loads are not an issue for us. Thanks for your comment.

Hey Robert you can insulate the roll up door opening the same as the walls. I built a barn door to conceal my roll up door and insulated to barn door. I just open the barn doors to access the roll up door. Below is a link to that video. Hope this helps and thanks for watching. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/ec6Cg9mhmLG6gYU.html

@@TheEndGrainWorkshop Thanks again sir for the link to video on the door. Very much appreciated…

Hey George, It depends on a lot of factors including you're geographic location. Down here in Florida I installed 1" rigid insulation between the roof decking and top of the truss and 2" rigid insulation between the top and bottom of the roof truss for a total 3 inches and an R-value of 10. If you live in a milder climate you might could get away with less. Thanks!

I live in illinois and it gets in the high 90’s in the summer and we get single digits in the winter so we get a bit of everything. I’ll consider doing the 2” under my .5” later down the road. I’m also considering the blue Tex roll out stuff just for the ceiling.

@@618Mowing That's a good choice. I was planning on doing the same. If the rigid insulation wasn't enough. I was going to put blown or batt fiberglass insulation in the attic space. I installed a MR. COOL mini-split system last month and so far I'm pleased with how efficient and cool it is in the workshop in the middle of Summer.

Either way, you really want to leave an air space between the sheets and the exterior.

Great idea!

I do and it works great! I installed a 24K BTU Mr. Cool unit and it has no problem cooling it in the middle of summer in Tampa, FL. Below is the A/C video installation. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/hcCBZad6162XaJc.html

It depends on if your trying to keep the radiant heat in or out. In hot climates like Florida you should face it out to reflect the radiant heat from entering your workshop. In cold climates like Michigan you should face it in to reflect and keep the radiant heat in the workshop. Hope that helps. Thanks

Yes, for condensation which works plus it allows the heat inside the building to exit through the ridge vent making the building more energy efficient. I hope this helps and thanks for watching!

@@TheEndGrainWorkshop ok. That is what I thought. What size gap did you use and which ridge vent material? Thanks

@@cae2024 The gap is about one and a half to two inches. The ridge vent is galvanized metal and was installed when they installed my metal building and roof.

Chad you can check out my workshop update video link below where I detail how the roof ventilation works around the 9:30 minute mark. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/pLuodJWn2pfUhYU.html

I went with Carolina Carports 25 ft x 30 ft metal building with 10ft height walls.

Are you pleased with the building so far? Thanks

@@BigDog-xj8ol I am. I've had it for over ten years with no issues whatsoever. I'm located in Florida so due to termites a wood structure was not a great option. The only draw back is the heat, which is why I finally decided to insulate and eventually put in a mini split system.

It’s working great no condensation issues. I installed T1-11 siding over the insulation and installed a Mr. Cool mini split inside my workshop and everything has worked perfect. My only regret was not doing this years ago. Thanks for watching!

@@TheEndGrainWorkshop legendary thanks for the update man! Such a hard topic regarding insulation for these buildings so much different information. If you get some time you should toss up an update video.

My shop is 25'x30' with 10' high walls. It took 65 sheets of insulation at $27/sheet for approximately $1,750 and worth every penny! I just installed a DIY Mr. Cool unit and everything is working great. Especially during this heat wave in the middle of July in Central Florida.

No I keep it flush with the inside of the wall that way it creates a one inch plus air gap to prevent condensation.

@@TheEndGrainWorkshop For the ceiling, where you used 1" of EPS Insulation, are those custom cut and sits on the lips of the purlins? Then you proceeded to tape where the foam sits on the purlin lips as well as where each piece of foam meets another piece? At about 6:21, how did you secure those 1x6 cross board between the metal posts for your wood framing? I can see how you rest the board above in between the angled metal braces for trust. Just can't figured out how you get the bottom piece of wood framing to stick to the wall.

@@JP-xd6tb So my ceiling has 2 1/2" metal trusses with 2" purling on top of the truss and metal roof decking screwed to the purlins. In the 2" purlin cavity I installed the 1" insulation and it sits directly on top of the trusses leaving a 1" air gap between the insulation and roof decking. Then I installed 2" insulation between the roof trusses friction fit for a total of 3" insulation in the ceilings. Yes, I used metal HVAC tape at all the joints. I also installed some 1X furring strips between the trusses just in case the insulation started to sag. For securing the wood framing I used L brackets and self tapping metal screws. You can check out my wall prep video which goes over the internal wall framing. The L bracket installation is around 10:40 in the below video. Hope this helps and thanks for watching and let me know if you have anymore questions. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/q6qGmbhqvbbHqJ8.html

@@TheEndGrainWorkshop Thanks for the quick reply! I'm surprised you have a 2" deep purlins/hat channel. I think mine's only 1.25" or so. Just started putting up .75" polyiso that I had bought last year before the price rise, yet again. I'm barely getting .5" air gap. Crossing fingers that it works. I'm debating on if I should do 2nd layer of foam like you did. My building is not 4' OC with metal posts/trust so wedging/friction it in like yours might not be as easy. Then there is the furring strip issue. Screwing to metals up so high is something I'd like to avoid. I assume you don't have wood framing through out the building and only certain parts? Btw, I think you linked the wrong video, but I was able to find your wall framing video. Very informative videos. Thank you and will be watching more.

Hey George, It took about 65 sheets at $27/sheet for approximately $1,755 and well worth it!

Hey Rob, It was approximately $3K for the walls and ceiling. I was optimistic at first, but I once it was complete I could feel a considerable difference in the temperature. I'm located in central Florida where we have extreme heat and combined with the metal walls and ceiling it was always hotter inside the building than outside. After installing the insulation it was the opposite. In the summer it was approximately 10 degrees cooler inside than outside and just the opposite in the Winter, it would be warmer inside than outside. For me it was worth the investment because in the Summer I could only work in my workshop until about 11am after that it was just to hot. Combined with installing a MR. COOL mini split system, the workshop is now a conditioned space and I can work year around in a 75 degree environment. The cost for the mini split was about $2,500. See link below to that video. Hope this helps and thanks for watching. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/hcCBZad6162XaJc.htmlsi=S4EI2zgesrf_tSrB

@@TheEndGrainWorkshop Great to hear, we're in Melbourne Australia. Temps in our little 20' X 20' X 8' Zincalume shed can easily get up to 40+C in Summer . . way too hot to do any work in, let alone have a few cold beers in. Greatly appreciate your reply too ! Thanks mate.

Got it. I was a newbie back then.

R 7.7 from Home Depot.

R 7.7 from Home Depot.

Don't need too. I can feel the effects of the insulation everyday I step foot in my workshop.

Guilty has charged, sorry!🙂

You can get them at any of the big box stores. I got mine at Lowes. The price ranges from $12-$35 per 4'x8' sheet depending on the thickness you get. I used 2" in the walls and 1" and 2" in the ceiling. Hope this helps and thanks for watching.