Yes. Many people. Lol. These are silver sided on both sides. So you can use either side and still keep a much more finished look.

@@JohnEngel Btw, how well does it dampen the noise when it's raining outside?

@@Condor1970 it’s does a good job. Not perfect but much better.

@@nickfoote8346 great info. Thank you.

@@nickfoote8346 great info. Thank you.

Thank you so much. It’s a small world. Come over anytime.

Thank you so much.

Lol. Me too. I really need to do some work on that basement wall.

Great info. Thank you.

Still hotter than I wanted. Lol. I think an AC unit is needed and hopefully because of the insulation, it will handle that easier.

So I used the Amazon recommended knife and it’s amazing. I tried using insulation tape but that was no good. I’m thinking that liquid nails will work much better.

They are in the works. Getting it up there is the biggest challenge.

Had to rent a scissor lift. Then press each in place. I used liquid nails and also two self tapping screws on each to make sure that if it did start to fall down, it would hit those.

It was actually really easy to get the permit. I just went to my county office and explained what I was doing. They then give you the needed paperwork and information needed.

I would do the whole building in spray foam if possible. This was a budget fix because of the expense of spray foam.

Great question. I also has an issue on my one window. I found that the silicone on the outside and then expanding foam from the inside has solved my issue. I also thought about adding some flashing on the outside so that the water would shed away from the window but luckily that was not needed for me.

Exactly. These have silver on both sides.

Clips and magnets.

I think I will have rent a lift to get to the roof. I will keep you posted.

Where did you find the foam board like John’s?

@@markfayerman1206 Facebook marketplace, random people sell it

It’s a no brand name cheap solution I found on FB market.

I going to use a metal strap that is bolted to the main frame. At least that’s the plan. Lol.

Been told ceiling insulation is very important w/metal due to condensation and dripping on whatever is below. Have you heard / experienced same?

@@mikerentchler6889 that is 100% true here in South Carolina. The humidity will cause it to happen.

It leaves about an inch or two air space.

The roof has a thin insulation that keeps it from Haven’t condensation. I’m hoping to do a video soon of the final product.

@@JohnEngel do you know what they installed?

@@farmerchuck3 something like this. It’s really no good for R value but will make sure that you don’t have condensation drips. www.ecofoil.com/products/double-bubble-foil-insulation-white-foil-4x125-500-sq-ft?gclid=Cj0KCQjw_7KXBhCoARIsAPdPTfg7UkEZz1t8MYbyxbyOmwa0c8Wt3WSZU-RGGhUxRn6lO6U19PoB0fYaAmGkEALw_wcB

@@JohnEngel @Chuck Cohenour check out Blue Trex A lot better than that bubble stuff that the building people offer.

@@NYTROeast can you add a link to it please

It was. It was very close so don’t mess up. Lol.

This was a Facebook marketplace find. I also liked that it has a somewhat finished look to it. :)

@@JohnEngel man can you find out some more info, or if anyone has a link, I like how it fits almost flush in there. Can't seem to find them anywhere else.

@@bullshiet facebook.com/marketplace/item/123580019956605/

@@JohnEngel Thanks, able to find some locally but they were around $24 per sheet. Still pretty economical. Now how to do that ceiling tho.

That was the selling feature for me as well. I actually found this on FB Marketplace.

​@JohnEngel that's hilarious that's where I just ordered mine. Is this R10

@@acetech9237 I believe so. :) It has been a while since I ordered it.

Great question. For now I’m just leaving the insulation exposed. Eventually I would love to finish it off.

There was a Facebook marketplace ad for it.

I have a slight gap between the foam and outside wall.

I have not. :)

So far there has been no mold or mildew. It has been working well. :)

I found these on FaceBook.

Not yet. That’s in the plans but looking like it will be winter or next spring.

Yes they are.

I bought these off FB Market.

Hey Mark, Thank you so much. So far the insulation has done well but the real test will be summer. I found mine on Facebook marketplace.

@@JohnEngel John it's gotten hot outside, how's the insulation performing?

@@KT-1 it does a good job but it’s still hotter than I expected. Now I’m going to look into budget friendly cooling.

John did you finish the insulation and cooling? and more videos on that?

@@markfayerman1206 not yet. I really need to get on this. Lol

I found all of this on Facebook marketplace.

I’m going to give it a try and see. I don’t think it will snap cleanly but worth a try.

I truly think they will do the same. I haven’t seen the reduction of heat that I was hoping for.

@@JohnEngel ok cool, thanks bud. Also I was planning on liquid nail the boards instead of having them persist measurements. What do you think about that idea?

@@DetroitLions1984 I think that is a better idea than what I did. If I was to do this again I would use liquid nails as well.

Each manufacturer must use different dimensions.

I am about to run into the same situation, but I plan to run the rigid foam boards lengthwise, so I will have to cut each at 5'.

@@wranglerdude1004 Just so much wasted product. And the fact mine is 10 ft leg height makes it even more challenging. Not to mention I got vertical siding so my purlins are horizontal in a different way than horizontal siding.

Yea but he didn’t put one

@@magicmillhouse9586 The metal has gaps in it.

I totally agree that it tablesaw would’ve made this so much easier. I was originally looking to do spray insulation, the quote was $8500 and to do the foam insulation was 2000.

@@JohnEngel Definitely a no brainer, lol. Can’t wait to see how well it works out for you.

Because of the siding used there is an air gap. :)

@@JohnEngel hey I'm confused, are you getting the air gap by just putting the 2inch from board flush with the front side of the metal frame leaving u about an inch behind it? Or are u pushing back flush against the siding and considering the ribs in the siding an air gap?

@@gregorylaflame4405 there is about a 1 inch gap once I place the foam.

110. :)

They said it was R10.

I believe this type of foam typically has an R value of 5 per inch. So 1"=5, 2"=10, 3"=15 etc from what I've read

Both sides have the foil. I liked it because it gives it a little more of a finished look.

I found these on FB marketplace

lol. Liquid nails can be used as well. :)

Got it thanks! Quick question, my insulation foam boards say they're combustible on them, I figure most are? Do you not place a thermal barrier in between the metal wall and the foam board? I imagine the sun's heat on the metal wall can make it pretty hot and that may be dangerous if the foam board is pressed up against the hot metal wall?@@JohnEngel

@@The-Blue-Ghost-Plant-Co. great question. The panels that I bought have a layer of thermal reflective material on both sides. It is my hope that this will prevent any issues.

That’s a great idea. Thank you so much.

I’m going to try that next time. Thank you.

Great idea. Thank you.

I used FB market and got 110 boards.

Just for you. Of course.

Thank you so much. Yes an air gap was left and the foil is on both sides. :)

​@JohnEngel how deep it is the walls between the studs.. that it is false about the air gap I have read that it is really not beneficial

@@daveyvega7348 I think it’s 3 inch.

@JohnEngel thank you Sir... and how works so far the insulation?

@@daveyvega7348 much better than without

These have foil on both sides. Double foil.

@@JohnEngel ah, I wasn't sure but was just a thought. What if they have it on one side? Then does it matter?

@@jackle842000 yes. When I was looking at doing this I found this information that I used. “The foil is called a “radiant barrier” and it can be used to keep warmth inside a building, or, if used correctly, it can be used to help reduce the heat load coming into the building from the walls or roof deck. There are a few scenarios for proper use, so I’ll go through them here: For a radiant barrier to work, there must be some air gap between the foil and the wall or roof deck. In other words, if you press the foil side of the insulation tight up against the wall (foil facing outward), the radiant barrier will not work. Of course, the insulation will work. This means that you are reducing the conductive heat load that goes into the building, but you are not reducing the radiative heat load. The insulation will keep the heat out on hot days, and will keep the heat in on cold days. If, on the other hand, you use something like a 2″ x 4″ to create a gap between the wall and the insulation board (foil facing out) then you will have a radiant barrier. Here, not only is your insulation working, but so is the radiant barrier - and therefore, unlike in the above paragraph, you are reducing your conductive and radiative heat loads entering the building. The insulation will keep the heat out on hot days, and keep the heat in on cold days, and the radiant barrier will keep the heat out on hot days. There is a third scenario where you have the foil facing inward. Here you can press the insulation tight against the wall, or have a gap… it doesn’t matter. With the foil facing inward you are keeping warmth inside the building on colder days and nights. The insulation, will also work to keep the warmth in on cold days, and to keep the heat out on hot days, and the radiant barrier will keep the heat in on cold days. If you are placing the board in a window, face the radiant barrier outward. Otherwise, the heat that enters through the window will serve to heat the insulation board, and the board will in turn, serve to heat the room like a heating element in the oven. The radiant barrier facing outward will prevent this to a certain extent. You may want to experiment to see if it is better to have a gap, or no gap, between the foil and the glass pane on the window. Finally, if to be used in an attic space, you can use the panels on the floor of the attic. Face the foil upwards to keep the heat out. In this way, the insulation will keep the heat out on hot days, it will keep the heat in on cold days, and the radiant barrier will keep the heat out on hot days.”

​@@JohnEngelI bought a new she that gets too hot. I bought simple plain foam boards that I cut and put by pressure. I bought the silver heat barrier and put it in top with staples. But I stopped. Am I doing this correctly? I read you should not put the heat barrier making contact with the roo panel wood, so in between I put foam ...is that ok ?

@chellychevres2969 you want the foil in-between the roof and insulation.

Lol. It’s so much fun, why not.

That’s a great idea. Thank you.

I do. It’s noticeably cooler but the doors are my next project, as they are not insulated.

Well it’s only been a few months but I will do a review about a year after. I also did this same thing for my flooring video. :) Happy Thanksgiving.

Lol. My neighbor moved and needed a place to keep it. I’m just watching over it.

??? I’m curious.

@@JohnEngel instead of between the steel studs. Hang like a panel of siding, tape to seal, then over lay with the metal siding. Less labor, more efficient,

@@MalleusDei275 gotcha. That does make a lot more sense. I do agree that would be best.

@@JohnEngel I used 2 inch foam board on my shed...

I found it on FB Market. I think it was 20 bucks per sheet.