Mark. That’s so kind of you to take the time to watch and comment. I really appreciate it. When I was researching I saw some pretty wonky stuff out there. Please feel free to share (I don’t know how you do that). Cheers.

Youi guys rock !! I love this product and feel very comfortable recommendng it. Now that we've been on the road several times I can't beloeve how quiet the ride is too. Be well

A B - you are very kind. Thanks for watching and commenting. VanOfAction.com continues into the new year.

Vincent - thanks for watching !!

Hi Melanie - thanks for watching and taking the time to comment - be well dave

Hi Daniel - thanks for coming by and taking the time to comment. I wish you well ... Dave

Thanks for watching !!!

Thank you for taking the time

Hi Daniel - you're not alone !!! Under certain circumstances everyone is gonna have moisture problems !!! Be well and come back !! Dave

Hi Tom - thank you so much for watching and taking the time to comment and especially for subscribing. Be well my friend

@@VanOfAction You are living my dream. I will have time to get projects done one of these days.

Hi Jess - yep, I wish I had waited - it seemed like the first thing to do but then you fight with it every day. I'm sure you'll find a systemt that works but be aware of condensation .... be well

Jess thanks for bringing up the allergy. I didn't even think of that since I don't wear wool. I have a lot of allergies and will have to look into that.

@@portiaReddy Thanks for watching and READING the comments - I love that ideas are being shared. Be well and come !!! Cheers

Hi JG-k4oi - thanks so much for watching and taking the time to comment - I believe it's in the conversation we learn and grow. I don't have to be right. - yes - insulation sure gets the blood going. So many different ways to it. I'm intrigued with your use of the fans. I agree with the concept but I'm not certain of the effectiveness in extreme colds. The difference in temperatures outside / inside and the small R value of any insulation is going to cause condensation - maybe not where the air is moving - but at the dew point of the system everywhere else. But that's just me ... let me know how it works. I hope you'll join the community and stop back. ..... Dave

Hi six strings - Personally I would not add the plastic - in fact I didn't !!!! I don't think it's possible to create an air tight membrane on the floor, especially along the walls. I believe it's better to let things breathe. I framed my floor using 1" square aluminum tubing, glued to the tops of the ribs. I installed the aluminum at about 12 inch centers so I could use 1/2 in birch ply wood without sagging. Then I put the wool insulation in between. And then glued the plywood down. I thing the moisture in the 1 inch space will be minimal and air will be able to migrate in and out. I hope that helps. Insulation is such a debated subject in vans :) be well

Hello Sunflower !!! It's so cool to me that someone where you are would watch the video I made in my little shop in the interior of BC !!!! Thanks for taking the time to comment. It sounds like your climate is very much like mine. We insulate for several reasons - keeping in the heat, keep out the heat, keeping sounds in and keeping sounds out. I expect every / any insulation will do these things to some extent. What some will do better than others is handle the moisture that will occur in the wall cavity - there is no question it's going to form there (unless a person uses a closed cell spray foam). Earthwool is a recycled glass product which appears to be a good insulator. However it would not absorb and release moisture as natural wool would. But if that's all you can get then you have to find a way to may it work. I'm not familiar with a toyota coaster so check to see if it's designed to allow interior moisture that will build up inside - if there are ways for the moisture to escape make sure that you leave them open. If there is no designed way for the moisture to escape - you'll have to give it some thought. I'm sure there will be a way to take care it. We also installed a Noika sound membrane on the walls, floor and ceiling to reduce vibration. In practice, we've found our insulation and the Noika have dramatically reduced the road noise and exterior sounds when parked - we don't even hear rain !!! But remember that a couple inches of any insulation will not keep your space warm when it's really cold out. Be well and let me know how you make out !!! Cheers

Hi David. Thanks for watching and commenting. I did not. All in we’re talking about 2 maybe 2 1\2 inches of insulation. I believe it’s possible to over analyze things. I just strapped the ceiling to accommodate the wood ceiling and filled whatever void was created. I hope you’ll stop back and join the community. …… Dave

Hello @vivalaleta. - thanks for watching and taking the time to comment. I agree !!!! Hope you’ll stop back. … Dave

:). So glad you did. :). And thanks for saying so. Be well.

I didn't do the floor when I did the walls - in fact I wish I had waited to do the walls and ceiling too. I don't know why people insulate so early in the process. Regarding the floor - I am starting it now. I'm only gioing to insulate (or put a floor) in the cabin where we walk. Not under the cabinets and not in the garage. I want the floor we walk on to be comfortable but I don't want to sacrifce the space a floor would take in the garage. For bikes every inch counts. In the cabin, I glued 1 inch sqare aluminum channel as a spacer, then added the sound deading and wool insulation in between.

Hi Rusty Cas - thanks for visiting and commenting. I think insulation is the biggest debate of van building. Since I installed the insulation I've driven about 21,000 km (8 in 2021 and 13 in 2022) during that time I have had a number of the interior panels open on the inside to run wires or install something and I have found no insulation sagging or giving way. I didn't expect to though. I glued the wall batts in place and they are compressed to a degree when the interior finish is applied. I would not worry about the insulation giving way at all. And for the reasons I gave in the video I would not consider a rigid insulation at all. But that's just me !!! Be well and I hope you stop back.

Hi Joe - thanks for watching and taking the time to comment. I agree totally with the theory - but having used the van now for a while I'm convinced that the insulation is really more to control the moisture a bit and the sound a lot. In terms of keeping things warm it's really ineffective. Maxing out at a couple inches and with the heat loss through windows and the floor there really isn't much to it. Open a door once and you start from scratch all over again. We have used it in -12 C - It gets cold quickly - but warms up just as fast. But that heat just leaves ......... be well and stop back. Dave

Hi Theresa - thanks for watching and taking the time to comment - That is a fanstastic idea - I believe you are correct it would be exactly the same material. Can you share a link to the company ? I'd love to reach out to them and get some details. Hope you'll come back and see us again !! Dave

Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment - it was about 45-50 F when I applied the insulation and it stuck great, The challenge is only the insulation that comes in contact with the glue sticks. The rest of the batt just hangs there and it pulls away very easily. I would insulate much later next time. Be well

Hi Millie. Thanks for watching the video and taking the time to write. If you’re just getting started you may find more useful information at my channel / Van Of Action .com. I’m not sure a what you mean by By Thermowrap. But in any regard I didn’t cover the insulation with anything. I don’t believe there is a need to other than to protect it as you build. Whatever a person used would need to “breath”. The last thing you want to do is trap air in the wall. The moisture in the air in the wall must be able to escape as conditions change. I hope that helps. Be well and safe.

@@VanOfAction Ok thanks so much - appreciate your advice and i'll definitely check out your channel for more tips. :)

Can you really help me with that plz.

Hi OSO. Thanks for watching and commenting. Any insulation will help with sound - both sound coming in and sound going out. I can’t believe how quiet our van is - even driving !!!!! But no insulation will help with humidity. Humidity is going to happen. The goal is to try and make sure it doesn’t cause too much trouble. Hope I understood your question ?????

@@VanOfAction thank's that really help me anything else you think can help me to prevent humanity

@@fuertep2do - Humidity is simply going to happen. Condensation happens when warm are meets cold air. So depending on the time of year and where you are you may have little (an area where the outside and inside of the van is always about the same - maybe northern USA or southern Canada in the summer) or you may get a ton of humidity (condensation).if you're in a place where it's very cold outside compared to the inside of the van ( anywhere there is a cold winter, maybe in the desert at times) Keeping the air moving will reduce it, so a fan in the van is a help. But in the walls the air will be still so you'll get it for sure. Hope that helps. Be well

@@davechomitz1545 Wooow yeah your right thank's so much.

Hi Justin. Thanks for watching. - measure your van. The square footage (length x width) of the places you want to use the insulation. In my 3500 extended Promaster I needed about 340 sf. Be well and stop back……. Dave.

Hi Deep South New Zealand - IT IS !!!! And I believe that the company imports your wool to the US because it's one of the most reliable in the world - thanks for watching and commenting. Dave

Hi N Martin - thanks for watching !!! We bought 3 bags of the batts - used it everywhere and have about 1/4 of a bag left over. Hope that helps !!! Be well and come back.

Hi Video Pipeline - thank you so much for watching the video and taking the time to make such a detailed comment. I love these - I believe that it's in the conversation that people learn and form their ideas. I know there are a ton of people lurking here. And my experience in van building is that there can be tremendous differences between the theoretical building concepts and how things actually work ...... * Yes* - I did omit the Tyvek housewrap - which is a very effective moisture barrier for air coming into a house. However, I disagree with the comment that " ..... In a metal building (or a van) you have barriers on both sides,...." you'll only have 2 barriers if you build in 2 barriers and I don't believe it's possible to do that on the inside of a van without using a closed cell spray foam. A product that would totally change the build. In my opinion it would not be practical to try to create a wall cavity that was completely sealed on both sides. And even if it was possible, given the small amount of insulation in that cavity all you would accomplish for the effort is a moving of the dew point - because there's gonna be one. The question is where is it best managed. For my van , where and how I use it I'm happy with the results. ..... Be well and I hope you'll stop back ..... Dave

​@@VanOfAction re: "I did omit the Tyvek housewrap - which is a very effective moisture barrier for air coming into a house." As you probably know, the benefit of Tyvek (and subsequent comparable products) is reduced wind infiltration and bi-directional vapor permeability, so if resists wind pressure driven moisture laden air from entering the wall cavity, but more readily permits moisture to escape from the wall cavity. This is almost exactly the opposite of how wool performs when used as bulk insulation in a wall cavity (metal buildiong or van makes no difference). "In my opinion it would not be practical to try to create a wall cavity that was completely sealed on both sides." Herrmetically sealed is not typically possible, but sealed to the typical vapor pressures encountered certainly is, and in fact new buildings in coastal areas are typically built to this standard. Some people don't want to seal off the inside surface of a vehicle skin due to concerns about making collision damage repair more difficult. To each their own, I guess, but IMO that's a strange prioritization. "And even if it was possible, given the small amount of insulation in that cavity all you would accomplish for the effort is a moving of the dew point - because there's gonna be one." In cold exterior temperatures, the dew point will be on the outside. The primary rationale for using thermal insulation is to allow living spaces to be conditioned, in which case there will be no condensation on the inside walls even when the space is relatively full of breathing occupants.

Hi Video Pipeline - thanks for taking the time to respond. You clearly have a concrete grasp on the theory of building envelopes. I don't expect you've ever built or spent time in a van. If you ever do you will be able to insulate any way you want, I'm very happy with the method I used and would recommend it to anyone...... Dave

Hi Danielle - thanks for watching and commenting. Some folks use thinsulate for sure. If installed properly it can change the location of the dew point - which for me was not wanted. If mice get into the van there are going to many problems, not jus the insulation so we take steps to keep the out. Be well and I hope you stop back. Dave

Hi Samuel -thanks for watching and taking the time to comment. I didn't mention that = and after 3 years that hasn't been my experience at all. If you watch some other videos of mine you'd find that almost all of my interior finishes and cabinet liners are removable. So I can run wires or other stuff. I've had every wall open over time and I've seen no settling at all. but maybe time will prove you right - at which time I'll able to correct if needed. Hope you'll stop back .... Dave

Hoho - thanks for watching and taking the time to post a comment. What you said is true. But it does not apply to this instance. Let me explain without trying to lecture. Other folks may not understand your point. “Condensation” occurs when cold air and warm air meet - it’s called the dew point. “Ventilation ” means the air is moving. And there’s no question if air is moving it will not condense. However- in a van the dew point (- where condensation will occur - always on the warm side) is at the inside skin of the van or the outside edge of the insulation. What makes insulation effective is it’s ability to hold air still - so to have ventilation at the inside face of the van would require not having anything to stop the air from moving. So no insulation. and a mechanical way to introduce air movement inside the wall. So you’d have a cold drafty van. If there is insulation - there is going to be condensation at times. There’s no getting around it…… Be well my friend.

Hi Video Pipeline - again, thanks for watching and taking the time to comment. Insulation is one of the topics of a van build that I think will be a never ending debate - this will probably be a long answer, I think it's important but I can't do another video about it right now. In this case, because of what I consider the insulation is for - I disagree with just about everything you've said. I am in Canada, the interior of British Columbia. I don't use my van in the dead of winter but I do use in during the shoulder months when night time temperatures will dip to below freezing. Having said that - there is not a product on the market that will insulate the walls, ceiling and floor of a van with enough R-value to enable the interior to hold heat well enough to maintain a consistent temperature if it's cold outside. If you want the inside to stay warm you have 2 choices. 1. build everything thick enough to hold enough insulation or 2. have to have a constant heat source. Number 1 would accomplish the heating / moisture goals - but would totally ruin the van. Number 2 would keep you warm - but would do nothing to reduce condensation - and depending on the heat source may even increase it. I believe every van builder should expect condensation, plan for it and manage it. So the question is where do you design the dew point. In a van it's naturally on the inside skin of the body. I do agree that wool hydroscopic, which means that rather just get wet and hold moisture it's able to take water into it's cells - so .... I know that when condensation occurs the wool will absorb it. The wool will hold it until the air out side the van is the same temperature or higher than the air inside(sun heating the outside of the van) At that point the air in the cavity will warm and take the moisture back as evaporation and the wool will be dry. In fact it's even better than that ..... "Wool insulation addresses both vapor diffusion and the issues with vapor barriers. One of wool's greatest strengths is its ability to manage moisture. It heats up when it absorbs moisture which helps maintain its R-value despite being wet which in turn helps it dry out quickly." It's a natural process that can happen over and over again. The observations you quoted "..... For Van Conversions" Key excerpts: Bare Plexiglass panel showing considerable condensation and beginning to drain down. Wool showing significant condensation, felt damp to touch on outer surface, (+36 g of water pickup). ....." are exactly what should be expected but the test didn't follow the full cycle of warm / cold / warm. In the end - Having spent time on the road - I believe van builders are insulating more for sound than for warmth. Thanks again for sharing your ideas ...... it's in the conversation ideas grow........ Be well and I hope you join the community..... Dave

@@VanOfAction "I do agree that wool [is] hydroscopic, which means that rather just get wet and hold moisture it's able to take water into it's cells - so .... I know that when condensation occurs the wool will absorb it." *...which is exactly what anyone with basic building science expertise knows must be avoided or at least drastically minimized.* Some other statements you made in your reply reveal that despite whatever practical trade experience you may have, you don't really understand the physics. You hare entitled to your strongly held opinions but the facts of any engineering problem are validated by careful objective testing, not by how strongly held or popular your opinions may be.

Well Video Pipeline - it finally happened. I knew when I started this channel that there would be videos that people would not agree with. It's part of the deal with putting your ideas out there. This particular video has been viewed over 30,000 times - which blows me away - and you are the first person to tell me I don't really know what I'm talking about. (I honestly thought the line would be longer). But it really means nothing to me. I'm sharing what I'm sharing because it's fun for me - there is nothing in it for me other than that. if people find it useful ... that's great. If people think it's wrong ...that's fine too. I know what I've built and I know how well it's working. I have no interest in trying to convince anyone I'm right. Earlier I suggested you join the community - I take it back. next time you scroll past my channel ... please do. Dave

Hi Stein. Thanks for watching and sharing your thoughts. I have never heard anything like that. I do know ….. The inherent flame-resistant properties of wool are related to its relatively high nitrogen (15%-16%) and sulfur (3%-4%) content, high moisture content (10%-14%) -- and if wet the moisture would seem to be higher. But that’s all theory. As a practical matter, there is. Not much insulation and it all (or very little) would ever be wet. So truthfully I would never let the gas issue out weigh all the proven benefits of natural wool insulation. Be well and stop back.

Hi Joe - thanks for watching and taking the time to comment. I'm sorry you didn't get what you wanted. But in my opinion, based on years of building many different types of construction in Canada - there really isn't anything to compare. Moisture is simply going to be a reality for any van build and Havelock wool is the only product that deals with it effectively in the wall cavity. I tried to communicate that. Be well and I hope you'll stop back.

@@VanOfAction Spray foam eliminates the gap, eliminates moisture, yeah?

Thanks Joe - this is a great point to bring up. First we have to agree that no matter what kind of insulation you use you're going to have condensation someplace. Spray foam - if it's "closed cell foam" will not let moisture into the wall cavity. But using spray foam creates 2 issues I wouldn't want to deal with. 1. It moves the "dew point" to the inside face of the foam. That's where the condensation will occur - and when it does there is no where for it to go. If the wall finish material is up against the insulation it'll get soggy, if it's installed air tight then the water will be dripping from the walls and ceiling into the cabin. 2. with the wall cavity filled solid running wires or pipes at a later date will be a problem. I think insulation is one of the most debated topics of a van build. But the reality is unless you build 6 inch walls, ceiling and floor you'll never be able insulate well enough to avoid the warm air and cold air meeting and creating condensation. The best we can do is design to manage it. Just my opinion - take it an $1.50 and you can get a coffee :) be well.

Hey Brett. Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment. I’m not completely clear what you mean. I’m pretty sure my build sequence was different than most. Partly by design and partly because of Covid’s impact on the availability of materials. But - I also didn’t publish my build videos in the exact order they were shot. At this point - if you visit the channel you should see it all and I’ve tried to curate the videos in a way that makes sense (at least to me). Happy new year and be well………. Dave

Hi 4subvoid4 - you are correct - however with a maximum of 2 inches insulation - and less in most places - the thermal break is more theory than reality. With so little insulation there will need to be a furnace running all the time anyway if I want to sit inside on a cold day. I believe the insulation is more for sound than temperature...... Thanks so much for watching and taking the time to comment..... Stop Back .... Dave

Yeezuz lex. Thanks for watching and asking a great question. I receive NOTHING from anyone on my website. I agree - I’ve watched a ton of videos that are crap and sales pitches. I have lots of experience. I’m offering my truest and most honest opinion a s hope that it’s helpful to others.

@@chomztvshorts8201 THANK YOU SO MUCH

Hi Barry. Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment. Insulation and moisture are probably the most debated components in van building. I am really happy with the wool I used and can’t imagine anything being better. But I understand not everyone will agree and it’s in that conversation others will learn. Be well and stop back. Dave.

Ray !!! Thanks for taking the time to watch the video - but more so to let me know about the title. As an old builder rockwool is my default for insuation - which is bad when it should have be "Havelock" wool - the change has been made, be well

Hi Kel. I’d like to say thanks for watching - but it feels like maybe you didn’t. I do appreciate you taking the time to comment. I’ll reply in the order you used. 1. I think your mistaken about where the vapour barrier is in homes. The barrier goes where the “dew point” is - where the warmer air meets cooler air. In a home that’s on the inside of the insulation. You want to keep the warm moist air from going into the insulation, Where condensation will get the insulation wet. The warmth may radiate in - but the moisture will not. As I said in the video - in a van that point is on the inside face of the van panel - in the insulation - because I don’t believe it’s possible to create a perfect barrier on the inside of the wall. 2. Yes as discussed in the video - the wool will absorb the moisture - that’s the whole reason for using it over other insulation. It will absorb it and then release It when the humidity changes without changing it’s ability to insulate. The synthetic materials that don’t absorb water still get wet, and moldy and stop insulating. 3. This is the second winter and I had a panel exposed to run some wires - all is good inside. Thanks for stopping by - be well and come back.

@vivalaleta - that’s a thought for sure.

Hi Jacob - thanks for watching and taking the time to comment. YES !! Wool acts like a wick and absorbs the moisture. There are a number of products that do that - but wool is the only one I'm aware of that will later release the moisture without it's ability to insulate being effected. Be sure to stop back ... Dave

HI Harley - thanks so much for watching the video and taking the time to comment. I love it when people share their thoughts and opinions - I think it helps everyone learn. I had to re-watch the video. I understand and agree with your point about the drain holes when using spray foam insulation (assuming you're using a closed cell spray - you'd be crazy to use open cell). Because closed cell doesn't breath it would absolutely trap the moisture that's going to form on the inside of the panels in those areas where there is no insulation, or on the inside of the insulation on a cold day. That water has to have a place to go. I hand mentioned the drain holes when shooting but didn't include include them in the final cut because with wool insulation the point is moot. The wool I used will take on moisture and release it back out - if there's enough, with gravity that moisture will migrate down and out the drain holes. The holes are not plugged at all. I don't know but I doubt natural wool was very common when you were doing vans. In my opinion it's a superior product and easier for a DIY person to work with. It's great to understand how all the systems work together. Be well and stop back my friend.

Hi 4subvoid4 - thanks for watching and taking the time to comment. This is a long reply but I think the conversation is important - many don’t really understand this. I know that “what’s the best insulation in a van” is one of the biggest debates in the van world. But I also know that that all insulation works the same way - it’s simple science. You’ve mixed up a few words and have things a bit convoluted. The way you talked about the car I’m not sure you’re talking about the inside or the outside. Which is great because the principal is exactly the same in either case - assuming the windshield is warmer than the outside air. The fact is that when warm air meets cold - the moisture in the warm air will condense. The only way to prevent it is to make the air move. On the outside of the car, even on what may seem a calm day, the air is moving. In the same way your house windows don’t get foggy or wet on the outside, but can on the inside. Boil some spaghetti on a cold night and the inside of your kitchen windows will have condensation, outside won’t, because the air outside is moving. If you have a warm car on a cold night and no fan running - the inside will fog up and have water on it in no time. There is no getting around it. Insulation holds air still - keeping it from moving. Because the air in the insulation doesn’t move - and because you don’t want the condensation to be in the wall - in house construction, a “vapour” barrier is placed on the warm side of the insulation to prevent warm moist air from migrating into the insulation. The warmth will still radiate in, but the moisture won’t. If it’s thick enough the, the insulation will keep the warm inside air from meeting the cold outside air. In a van - it’s not possible to get that much insulation - of any type - installed without building the floor, walls and ceiling 6 inches thick. Less than that and the cold will meet the warm at the interior skin of the van. That’s where you’ll get condensation. There are 2 ways to ways to prevent condensation in the wall cavity. 1- Have the air moving all the time, but that would make the insulation totally ineffective. 2. You could place a vapour barrier on the inside of your wall and force the condensation to form there. But then the inside of your van would be dripping all the time. And to be effective the barrier would have to be consistent and 100% everywhere. In practice I don’t think that would be possible. There is going to be moisture in the air in the wall cavity. It seems more practical to me to recognize where the problem will be and then plan for that. Thanks for the comment - it seems like a hard thing for people to understand and I appreciate the opportunity to explain it another way …… Be well and stop back.

@@VanOfAction Thanks for your answer. The windshield is an analogy for your outer walls. See for example Greg Virgoe's (a pro) channel about this: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/pdOdpLB4nLjOiJs.html Also check: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/nqqKda2onMm6Yok.html If you have the vapor barrier in the correct place behind the inner walls there can be no condensation there because heat has been transfered to the isolation (that is warmer next to the barrier and colder next to the outer walls) and no cold parts can hit the vapor barrier. I agree that there must be a minimum thickness of the isolation material chosen (different for different materials). Perhaps some material require way too much isolation while others do not. The pros like Pössl seems to use a different approach: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/qcmXltZzrtGzpmw.html (You say "the inside of your kitchen windows will have condensation, outside won’t, because the air outside is moving". It's due to the temperature difference, not the moving of air. Warm air can contain more water than cold air and warm humid air that hits the cold window becomes cold and releases water.)

4subvoid4 Thanks for the reply and taking the time to find and share the links. Insulation is one of those debates that will never be settled in Van world. But I really think the conversation is important because this is where most people do their research . Information is key - filtering is critical. Where you’ll be using the van is a major factor. The video you shared was done in the UK. I’m in the mountains of central British Columbia. The difference in conditions between the 2 are dramatic. The video demonstrates how condensation is formed no question. But I’m not sure it’s a fair representation of would happen in a Canadian winter. I’ve only built one van, but was involved with design build construction for over 40 years and I know. If …. - You have a closed van ( a metal box with about 550 cf of warm moist air) - the difference in temperature between the inside and outside is 60+ degrees - You have a source of heat on the inside - There is at least 1 person inside Your gonna have condensation. The only way to avoid it is to vent the moist (warm) air outside and bring fresh (cold) air in to replace it. Which means without at least 6 inches of insulation the heater will be running almost full time to keep the batteries, food and water from freezing. I did a bit of a study about it one cold day last year …. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/Y9eKp6mE1sqRpKs.html I think my point is that in my opinion it’s not possible or practical to build a van conversion that would be comfortable to stay in in sub zero weather long term. My filter tells me that I’m insulating more for sound than for temperature. I know where the dew point is in my build and I designed my insulation to manage the condensation when it happens. I really appreciate your thoughts and time. Be well and stop back ..................... Dave

What do you mean? How so?

Hi 1marshall1me .... THANKS for watching the video and actually reading the comments !!!!!! I don't believe that's the case at all. In fact just yesterday as I was preparing to install new second seats I cut out some floor and exposed the insulation .... it looked like new ....... Be well and stop back Dave

It's the wool off a animal, and animals get a slew of bugs ,fleas,lice,etc

@@susananderson9619 It is off of an animal - however it isn't shipped right after the cut it off. They clean and treat it first - you'll see more information here ..... havelockwool.com/van-insulation-products/#:~:text=We%20apply%20a%20minor%20amount,toxic%2C%20as%20an%20insect%20repellent. ... scroll down to the 3rd last question ... Cheers .. Dave

Hi Chris - thanks for watching and taking the time to comment - I really appreciate your thoughts. I'm sorry you found the advertised point of the video misleading - That was never the intention but with your help I can see how it would happen. I have changed the thumbnail. All my videos are completely my opinion. There has never been affiliate links or sponsors - Not selling anything - ) I'm simply sharing my thoughts as completely as I can - (even the stuff I've invented). Insulation is one of the areas there is great debate between van builders. My feeling is that many people think that because you're insulating you can eliminate the moisture in the wall. I don't believe that's possible, and because of that I believe natural wool is the only practical solution - which is what I tried to communicate in the video. But it's all just my opinion and as I'm often reminded here at home, my opinion and $ 1.50 will get you a coffee at McDonalds. If you are inclined I'd invite you to watch this comparison of D.I.Y. wiring and a store bought power system from Bluetti. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/a7KqmtRjsdKrhHU.html I hope you'll stop back. Be well .

@@VanOfAction We all have our opinions which are formed by our own personal ratio of knowledge, ignorance, and starting bias. Where things get questionable and fuzzy is when they start to be represented as facts or knowledge overstated. Sadly KZfaq rewards clickbait titles with things like 'best xxx' titles, and our culture rewards hyperbole when selling things. Channel creators are selling themselves as 'experts' or often shilling products/services for others. As someone trying to learn it can be hard to sift through tons of videos to find a few golden nuggets of useful information. I did like your installation tips on installing wool and the importance of keeping it in place so it can be covered and held in place before it get damaged or falls off. Best wishes with your channel.

@@VanOfAction I think that you did a great job explaining your reasoning on why you've chose to use wool for insulating. There is some some things that just happen to be common sense or our own conclusions based on experiences we've had through-out life with the history of usage. Although you are certainly not old, by any means, your graying hair tells me that you've been around for a minute and I'm pretty sure that you have learned a thing or two about a thing or two, lol. One being that no matter what you do or say, you just cannot please everyone. ANYHOO, I myself have been in the process of renovating a travel trailer and have unfortunatly found mold. So my husband and I have been trying to decide what type of insulation we should use & because I have a few thousand pounds of jumbo chunky wool, ( I make those beautiful jumbo chunky blankets that you see being sold on Etsy or instructional videos here on YT on how to arm knit one) we've strongly discussed doing so, SO..... THANK YOU for sharing your video. I don't believe that we've come across a video yet that has discussed or talked about using wool for insulation. Was happy to have finally found one & I'll be SUBBING plus leaving a THUMBS-UP. OH, and of course, we'll be looking forward to viewing more of your videos. Take Care and KEEP SMILING! a new subb and fan, CHERI from SLC, UTAH~

@@cherigibsontrujillo2610 Hi Cheri. Wow thanks for the kind words but more importantly thanks for reading the comments ! That’s awesome. I think you’re right, if you have access to natural wool that is your best bet. When I started I thought I was insulating for heat retention and to help keep the van cool on hot days. But experience has shown me that there simply isn’t enough insulation to be effective with either. The greatest benefit (which may not be as important in a trailer) is the sound proofing the insulation provides. That part is amazing. BUT - With so little insulation - condensation is going to be a reality. Managing it is critical. And allowing air to move (the system to breath) - or the condensation to drain is the secret. I would suggest you plan for both those things. Mold will occur when moisture is allowed to sit against a material such as wood which is an easy place for mold to grow. So just plan for it. Thanks too for your generous opinion about how decrepit I am. I didn’t reply immediately because we’re on the “Great 2023 Road Trip”. Which took us through Utah about a week ago. On our way to Santa Fe. We camped at Willard Bay State Park which was nice (right beside the highway). And I have to tell you I would never have imagined how beautiful Utah is. We were blown away……… be well and let me know how you make out.

@@VanOfAction I sure will. Actually, we've thought about hanging some beautifully made & thick as hell blankets on a few walls and some gorgeous cow hyde rugs too. Maybe even on the ceilings....? It's like falling into a hole when going over all the information & listening to others' experiences with their insulation of choice. We are honestly stuck and haven't a dang clue as to what we are going to use. WHAT A MESS, lol. Anyhow, how fantastic to hear you enjoyed it Here in Utah. I live in a lovely city called Sandy, which is 15 mins south of downtown Salt Lake. It's kind of near the prison, well maybe 20n mins or so northeast. We r right down the street from the REAL soccer stadium. They are a fairly new team and have a beautiful soccer field, just happy that we got some sort of sporting since we'll never have football bcuz the Mormons, lol. Well, you take care n have lots of fun on your trip. And remember to ALWAYS BE SAFE OUT THERE! It's so fantastic to have heard from you. SAFE TRAVELS~ your Utah fan, CHERI 😋 👍 ❤