Very happy that I could be of some help. Thank you so much for the comment! :-)

Thank you muchly for the comment. I will have more videos up in the future. :-)

Lol wanna buy one 25$ got a few

You're very welcome... and thanks for stopping in and commenting. :-)

Thank you muchly!

@@ezridaeus Thank you! I will definitely try to make my own ring now :-)

Thank you very much. I appreciate the comment.

Thank you very much! I appreciate the comment and support. :-)

You're very welcome. Thanks for the comment!

Appreciate the kind words. Comments like yours really motivate me to make more videos. I do a lot of hand fabrication, but I also have a lot of equipment such as cnc mills, engraving and cutting lasers, and pulse arc welders etc. I was thinking about doing some video lessons on those as well, but may just make a separate channel for it. Not sure yet. I am definitely going to do more technique and project videos on this channel in the near future. I just got overwhelmed with life and business for awhile there.

@ezridaeus Totally understandable! I cant imagine it's easy balancing all of the things, as well as having a KZfaq channel. Well, either direction you decide to go, I'm excited to see what you come out with next! 😊

Glad that I could be of some help! Thank you muchly for the support! :-)

Thank you muchly!

Glad you enjoyed it. Thanks for the comment :-)

Thanks for the comment! You should definitely give it a go.

:-D Thanks for watching! I really do plan on getting some more videos out... I've just been really busy. There will be some more forging/hand fabrication videos, 3D sculpting/3D Printing and Casting and equipment videos.

I fell asleep on it had to watch it a few time also I was watching it before bedtime

Thank you muchly. Hopefully I can get some more videos up soon. I will have your order out shortly :-)

Thank you muchly for the kind words. I'll do my best :-)

Thank you very much for the comment. I'll do my best :-)

Thank you muchly! :-)

Thank you very much for the compliment, but I'm really not....maybe one day. :-D

I appreciate the support. Thank you :-)

Thank you very much. Unfortunately, there's not much that can be done about copper's reactivity with oxygen. There are several methods used to try and prevent copper oxidation, but they are all relatively temporary and will require reapplication. These include benzotriazole, nano-ceramic coatings, lacquer, and other clear barrier sprays. The truth is, maintaining the cleanliness of copper jewelry should become a weekly ritual for the owner.

Thank you for the comment. It takes me about an hour...less if I want to work faster :-)

Thank you very much :-)

Thank you thank you :-)

Hi there... I bought my tumblers from Harbor Freight a long time ago and have been using them ever since. As long as you make sure there are no burs on the metal pulley then the belt lasts a long time. Important tools to start with would be: Safety Glasses (Very very important) Set of files Sandpaper Small ballpeen hammer Jewelers Saw and blades 2 to 3/0 Flex shaft which you can get at Harbor Freight or Ebay/Amazon for around $55 Vernier Calipers are helpful Jumbo Butane torch or plumbers propane torch Ring mandrel Solder and Flux of course Various polishing bits for the flex shaft..I prefer the flexible polishing wheels That should be plenty to get started making some amazing pieces.

Sorry... I missed this message. I like to use a gentle polish like Wright's brass polish. Just a light rub and the bright color returns. Thanks for watching.

Thank you. I have used renaissance wax and various lacquers. The truth is that anything you use as a barrier coating will need to be reapplied quite often depending on wear. Some people prefer the reaction to occur with the skin thinking that there are health benefits. I'm not sure what I think about that. I make Fine Silver lined hammered Copper rings for customers that don't want the reaction to take place. I will probably have a video up on those in the near future. :-)

Just buy silver rings

Hi there... Thanks for the comment. I'm glad that I could help. As far as creases... I assume you are referring to the marks left from pliers? Is that correct? What kind of pliers are you using after rounding the band over?

@@ezridaeus I'm using flat smooth tipped pliers, but I can safely say it's not from them as it happens uniformly around the inner circumference of the ring, away from where my pliers have touched the metal. It seems like the metal is creasing from folding over itself when shaping from a flat blank into the ring. This is ~1.3mm (16ga) brass. (Could it be an issue with brass only? I don't have any low gauge copper on me right now to try it with) If you've never noticed such a thing I wonder if it's something else I'm doing or not doing... after I cut out the blank from my sheet, is there anything I need to do before forming the ring?

@@RS-ec5bx Hmm that's a fairly thin piece. Brass will need more annealing than Copper before forming. It's a bit harder to form anyway. I'm generally working with 1.8mm thick metal, but I've never had any creasing happen from 1.3mm and greater. I work in Gold, Sterling Silver, Copper, Bronze and Brass. I have had to polish and sometimes sand out dents from the forming pliers. That is especially true with 1.6mm and greater thicknesses. I wouldn't use flat pliers. You need at least half round/flat round if you're going to form rings without denting the inner band. You can get away with putting a chamfer on the edges of the pliers and then polishing them, but they will still usually dent the inner band. A photo would help me understand what's going on better. You can email me negeltu at gmail dot com if you like. I'd be happy to take a look.

@@ezridaeus Haha of course I just made another one and there's no creasing. Maybe I'm just going crazy! Well I'll be sure to send you a picture if it happens again. Thanks again for getting back to me.

Thanks you very much for the comment. For cleaning after soldering I recommend Citric Acid pickle... For general cleaning on a finished piece I use Wright's Brass and Copper polish....but any non abrasive Copper or Brass polish will work.

Hi there... Honestly it's just a cheap no name brand German style frame with cheap 3/0 econo blades. I often find cheap works just fine with some tools. Higher priced saw blades usually cut straighter, but break more often as they are hardened properly and therefore a tad more brittle. With any blade you will get best results with very little forward pressure and no twisting while cutting. Just jog in place and let the blade move itself forward. Sometimes with cheaper blades the teeth may be skewed at a funny angle causing a meandering cut. Grab the blade between some parallel jaw pliers and pull it through. This will straighten the teeth a bit and lessen the meandering of the cut.

@@ezridaeus thank you so much for your help .. appreciate that

You can use a tumbler for prepolish stage or in my case I was using it to add a matte or satin texture to the ring. Thanks for watching! :-)

Thank you very much. I mainly buy it from Rio in the 11' 13 gauge roll

Thanks for the comment!

Hi there... You can check out some of my work in my Etsy shop here: www.etsy.com/shop/GWjeweler It's a bit sparse at the moment as I have to juggle other things in life. I will have my casting system up and running again very soon so should have a much larger variety. It will give me more time to do hand fabrication if I'm also selling my cast work.

Hi there... What torch, solder and flux were you using? Did you concentrate the heat on the join or the whole piece first?

@@ezridaeus hi, I was using butane micro torch, silver solder medium and I heated whole ring and as the solder wasn't melting I put hottest part of flame on joint. I didn't have problem soldering silver ring. Thanks

@@ezridaeus I was using borax I tried three different fluxes

@@cathmaguire7887 Ah... Copper has a higher thermal capacitance. The heat will sink away a lot more quickly from the join. You will need to use at least a jumbo butane torch for the Copper.

@@cathmaguire7887 Straight Borax isn't the best for Copper, but will work. It's more of a heat issue. A jumbo Butane torch is the smallest torch that you can get away with in Copper.. unless it's a very small piece. If you're using just Borax then it is important to get in there and get out quickly. The Copper will oxidize very quickly and retard the flow of solder. Handy Flux, Cupronil or Batterns flux will work best against the oxidation to help flow.

Thank you. I use the gravel for most matte finishes. You can use 0.5mm steel pins in a magnetic polisher as well.

@@ezridaeus Cool! 👍. Thanks for the tip! 😊

Hi there... Copper and Bronze solder will not be as strong and will always have a bit of an off color. They just aren't good color matches. If you have really good heat control then you can mitigate the problem to a point. Get in and get out as soon as it flows. I personally only use hard or extra hard Silver solder in almost everything that I do. If you prep the join like I do in the video and then run thin sandpaper between the join you won't have any silver line.... or if you do it will be imperceptible to most people.

@@ezridaeus thanks for your reply!! your answer clerfied my wonders. ill use silver solder instead of copper solder!!

@@lozanella1348 Glad I could be of help to you. 🙂

Thanks for watching. I tumbled around 15 to 20 minutes. Depends on the media. Now I use a magnetic pin polisher. It's a bit faster.

It's just a solder/brazing wire/sheet that I make myself which gives me a little extra strength when doing heavy forging. It varies for me... but a good place to start is around 15gm Fine Silver to 3 to 4gm of Brass. Honestly though.. you are fine just using the standard hard solder you can buy from Rio or any other jewelers supply source. No sense in making it more difficult for yourself really. Take things slow and just get the hang of the basic tooling/techniques and you'll get there in no time.

@@ezridaeus thank you very much. How long have you been making jewelry?

You have to use a barrier coating on the inner band or treat the metal with Benzotriazole. Any method you use would need to be done again fairly soon. Most of my customers prefer the reaction to take place. They believe Copper has health benefits. Not sure what I think about that. They seem to be happy though. I offer Fine Silver lined Copper bands for customers that don't want the skin reaction to occur. I have a video up showing how to make those. I will probably upgrade my videos when I get a better camera. Hope that helps :-)

I like to learn or buy copper ring how is that possible

How can I buy one?

Hi there... Vernier Calipers. Great for measuring length, inner and outer diameter and depth.

I purchase the 11' roll of 13 gauge Copper strip from Riogrande. Copper is great to get started with, but does behave a little differently when compared to Sterling Silver. In some ways Copper is more difficult to work with. If you cultivate your skills by working with Copper then Sterling Silver and Gold will be easier when you get to them. Thanks for the comment! :-)

@@ezridaeus Thank you for the reply and the great video! If I start with copper, I'll definitely be using you as a guide! If you have an Instagram account, I'll tag you in the finished product!

Yep. Inline fan pulling fumes and light particulates away from my face and blowing them out of a window. Don't want to breathe flux fumes. Long term consequences.

Hi there... You will need: 1. Ball peen hammer or other texturing hammer. 2. At the minimum a jumbo Butane torch, but I would try for a plumbers Propane torch with a hose for connection to a disposable cylinder. The TS 8000 or TS 6000 are good to start with. 3. Silver solder (Preferably hard.) 4. A rotary tool (Dremel or similar.) You can get away without having this, but it's going to be a difficult road. 5. Some polishing and grinding discs for the rotary tool or you can use needle files and sand paper (The harder way.) 6. The matte texture can be accomplished with a fine sandpaper or steel wool. For polished you can just get some of those small buffing bits for the rotary tool and some red rouge or similar. 7. Jewelers saw frame and at least 3/0 blades. 8. Don't forget eye protection. 9. Ruler 10. Ring mandrel That's the minimum of what I would say is needed for these Copper rings.

ezridaeus thank you so much for this, I really appreciate it. I’ll order it all right now :D

@@ivopinheiro4103 You're welcome. I've added a ring mandrel to that list.

@@ezridaeus can you write what polishing end are you using at 13:20? Is it stone or what? Thanks!

@@warpath0 Hi there.... Any of the dedeco or Eve flexible wheels will work.

It is just a cheap tumbler medium to add a matte finish on the ring. I used that for years before I switched to a different method.

Hi there... Thanks for the comment. I've found Beeswax to perform the best for my use. Using the same block that I bought almost 7 years ago.

Hi there... Riogrande has rolls of 11' Copper in 9mm or 3/8" width and 13ga thickness. You can then use it as is or cut/roll it down to whatever width you need. Rolling it vertically between the square grooves on a mill works great to decrease the width.

Thank you muchly :-) You can check out my Etsy shop here: www.etsy.com/shop/GWjeweler Simple pieces up currently. I'm working on some new things and getting my casting machine set up.

There really isn't a permanent solution. You can treat Copper with Benzotriazole, but it is only moderately effective and will need to be repeated. A nano ceramic electroplating would work, but expensive to get set up. Lacquer is the cheapest solution or Ren wax. Most of my customers buy Copper rings thinking there is some health benefit and they want the skin reaction to take place. Some people just prefer the look of tarnished Copper.

Hi there.... I use the high flex EVE polishing wheels. The blue ones are a medium cut. Do a search on Rio Grande or Amazon for High Flex polishing wheels...that should bring them up for you. :-)

Item Number on Rio is 33240110

Love this video! Thanku so much! I've learnt heaps! Im learning with copper. This is my go to video! So valuable!

Hi there.. Thanks for watching. I used extra hard Silver solder that I make myself, but regular hard Silver solder is just fine. If you prep the join properly you will not see a Silver line on the outer band. Copper solder will almost always fail under forging so I would only use hard Silver solder for anything that will be hammered.

You can use Copper pipe, but would be limited in sizing options. No purity issues. Most Copper pipe is between 16 and 18 gauge so a bit on the thin side. I go 13 to 14 gauge on my rings. :-)

@@ezridaeus thanks for the quick and detailed answer, much appreciated!

@@pnutdunne81 You're very welcome! Copper pipe is great to start learning on. It's readily available at most home improvement stores. You can even cut it, anneal it and flatten it out into sheet for pendants.

Just started getting into copper pipe work. Used it to make some cuff style bracelets

I only sell bare Copper. A lot of customers purchase because they believe Copper has health benefits and want it to react with their skin. For customers that don't want the reaction I recommend my Silver lined Copper rings. Any barrier coating that you apply will need reapplication within a fairly short time. I just don't want the hassle with that.

@@ezridaeus thanks for the feedback. 👍

Hi there... I generally use 3/0 size blades for everything. If you mean what type of frame.. then it's just a German style saw frame. Most blade sizes will work from 2/0 and finer.

Hi there.. Just search for Dedeco or EVE high flex wheels. I buy them at Rio, but you can find them online in many places. Amazon even has them.

Riogrande, Amazon, Monster Slayer, Thunderbird Supply, Stuller, Etsy, Ebay, Contenti, Otto Frei

@@ezridaeus Thanks

@@YewCrow No problem.

Oh I just buy the 11' roll of 13 gauge Copper from Riogrande. You should be able to find Copper strip or sheet at most metals supply shops.

Hi there... Torch is probably taking too long to heat up the area before oxidation takes over and forms a film. When that happens the solder will not flow very easily. What type of torch are you using? Reducing flame? Oxidizing flame? What kind of flux? Are you heating the whole band or the join and the solder directly?

@@ezridaeus hi thanks for helping out, i am usin a sandard butane kitchen torch. The flux i am using is La-Co sandard flux paste, i have tried tto water it down 1:1 raio, and i think the heat isnt the problem because he copper ring will go all red ho in a matter of 10-ish seconds. Im heating the joint directtly as shown in the video

@@Aaron-ux1mr That flux is for soldering pipes and similar that require much lower temps than jewelry. We are actually brazing when we "solder" jewelry and brazing temps will burn that flux up and cause it to carbonize before the silver brazing wire gets to flow temp. You need to use a true brazing jewelry flux like Cupronil, Handy Flux, Batterns, Riogrande's Ready Flux, My-T Flux etc... That will fix your issue.

@@ezridaeus Thank you so much, could i just use solder paste instead?

@@Aaron-ux1mr You're welcome... Handy Flux is a paste. There are a lot of solder pastes that are for soldering pipes and electrical wiring. Those will not work for jewelry soldering. You really need a flux that handles the high temps of jewelry brazing/soldering. I would go with a known brand like the ones I mentioned above. You'll have less trouble in the long run.

I either melt scrap and roll into sheet and wire or I buy from a source like Riogrande. It's cheaper for me to source it locally from a metals supplier, but I often get lazy and just order from online. The Copper used in this video and on the majority of these rings is bought from Riogrande. It is the 11' roll of 13 gauge flat. I believe it's around $23, but you will be able to make many many rings. If you have a rolling mill then there is no need to cut the stock down for more narrow rings. Just reduce in square grooves on a rolling mill then flatten back out.

Hi there.... I use a 3/0 for most of my work. Never cared much for that 3 teeth per thickness of material suggestion. 3/0 does a good job on the join prep and also for a lot of piercing work that I do.

@@ezridaeus Thank you!

Mostly from Riogrande. I buy the 11' roll of 13 gauge Copper.

Hmm.. What torch are you using? You can get away with a jumbo Butane torch, but nothing smaller.

Hi there... I do sell them, but my prices have went up a bit over the past year due to various reasons. Message me at negeltu@gmail.com and we can talk it over if you like.

Hi there... I buy from Riogrande, but you can get sheet Copper at most jeweler's supply stores.

Hi there... I generally use an extra hard silver solder that I make myself, but the regular hard silver solder that you would buy from a supply store will be just fine. Best thing to do is just jump in and start making mistakes. Best way to learn.

I buy the 11' roll of 13 gauge Copper from Riogrande. Rio for most of my metals although I buy the 6 gauge Copper wire from Lowe's.

I source my Copper from different places. Rio has the 11' roll for $24 I believe. I like the 13 guage 9mm wide roll. Less cutting than if you were to go with sheet. You can reduce the 9mm width in a rolling mills square grooves if you want to make narrower bands without cutting/waste. That's what I do. I am planning on showing how to do that in future videos. Lowes has rolls of 6 gauge Copper that's really good for bangles and the such.

Solid Copper 🙂

Oh... That is a cheap Harbor Freight bench vise that has an anvil cast into the body.

You can get 11' rolls from Riogrande for $24 or thereabouts. It is around 13g thickness and is a good size for most rings.

@@ezridaeus thank you very much. I’m just now starting my at home jewelry business. Any tips on where to purchase equipment for metal and copper earrings & rings?

Hi there... I did make one here kzfaq.info/get/bejne/pbd-pbSmq7_YYnU.html But I was thinking about showing how to make a band that is bimetal half/half and then an inner band of Silver. Keep an eye out... I may put that video up in the near future.

Dziękuję :-D

Many people will find that to be the case. A lot of my customers want that to happen as they believe there is some health benefit from the Copper... it's one of the reasons I sell bare Copper rings. Not sure what I think about that, but as long as they are happy. I direct customers that have issues with the skin discoloration to my Fine Silver lined Copper rings.

ezridaeus oh shit eh never heard of that I’ve heard that about silver tho lol was wondering because I make rings out of coins and the coins are 50% copper or more and copper bracelets but just didn’t want someone to say something about the rings etc turned theirs skin green but I’ll use this lmao thanks

Flux was added to both sides of the join and it wicks into the center all by itself.

Hi there... It all depends on the market you are selling in. Best to research where you are going to sell at and on what platform. You can get $20 to $30 for them on Ebay and Etsy...There are some selling for higher prices, but they tend to sit. If it's sitting then it's not making money.

:-D