Going on two years, LOVE this valve! Best plumbing money I have ever spent.

very interesting, i will probably install one. thanks for the tip!

Nicely explained. Wow. Thank you!

awesome! what a great find and explanation! thanks for taking the time to make this video.

Excellent video!! Thank you very much.

Interesting, worth considering.

I like learning from this guy

I installed this valve around a year ago, and love it! It is nice to have that huge tank gone, freed up quite a bit of space. Another benefit is almost instant hot water along with solid nonstop water pressure. I see all of the negative comments here, I was skeptical too, but now glad I purchased, everyone in the house is impressed.

Thanks Steve. As the inventor of the Cycle Stop Valve I really enjoyed the comments. As of 2019 we have been making and selling CSV's for 27 years now. It is a simple valve with a complicated explanation. There really are no drawbacks or negatives to the CSV. Just the opposite in fact. The CSV is a disruptive product because it makes pumps last longer and use smaller pressure tanks. I am still amazed at all the negative responses and incorrect assumptions about how the CSV works. I know people don't like to be corrected about something they thought they understood. But wow some of these people get really personal with the attacks. They should realize how foolish they sound to people who really understand pumps and know CSV's are good for pumps. Some people just keep repeating their stupid comments like repeating it enough will make them correct. LOL! Here is another video that might help explain some more. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/grZ5iNiXvNDGmZc.html

As Jerry was saying,about a clogged pressure sw, I have experienced this pump cycling,and cleaned a clogged 1/4" tube feeding the ps.,but believe me your better off replacing the ps since the internal are not reachable.

I know it's hard for people to understand how this valve works, but it DOES work. I installed one, their cheapest model ($75 I think?) on my 3/4 hp well pump because it was cycling on and off for several hours when the lawn irrigation system ran. THAT is where a Cycle Stop valve really shines: keeping the pump running and the pressure steady for long stretches. The company website is very well assembled, and you can learn all about these valves there, if you have the time for some serious reading! Cheers from Canada.

Personally I wouldn't want my submersible Pump running all the time. I've pulled it twice due to bad pump wires. After getting good stranded Pump FlatWire, it has lasted 20+ years. I have WellMate 31 gallon Fiberglass Tank and going to replace with a WellMate 47 gallon. Well is 135 ft. down

Where do I get one? Thanks

5:00 That is the same as any standard system except it limits the pressure to 50 PSI in the house even though the pressure in the tank continues to raise to 60 PSI.

Great video. I have a jet pump at the cottage and a small 6 gal pressure tank. Can the valve be installed between the two rather than connecting the valve on top of the tank. Or should I just connect the valve on the output line of my tank.

Very interesting, what was the cost of the valve?

What if someone is using there kitchen faucet alot on and off in a home and multiple people live in the house. Everyone goes and uses the faucet . This would in turn cause its own short cycling issue and pump on and off more. I’d say it’s only beneficial for irrigation where you have a time that uses water for like an hour straight. Or other scenarios I can’t think of at the moment. Correct me if I’m wrong

Question: so this CSV system eliminate the old big blue water pressure tank? right! or do you still have it connected to the well pump with the CSV system too? thanks

On top of this amazing solution, i feel like there should be an installed secondary filter at the bottom of the well that gaps the submersible well pump from the rock bottom of the well. would help keep the lifespan a little longer and not leave all the filtering duties to the well pump entirely. The well pump could also be turned to a lower psi flow to fill a larger tank and then use an auxiliary above-ground pump to increase the psi for on demand. Maybe you will get drops in pressure if you overuse your from the tank but replacing an above ground pump vs. the well pump sounds like a better time to me. Maybe an engineer or experienced well installer can chime in to whether this idea is ignorant or not

Thanks for the video. I'm wondering how the cycle stop valve works beyond what you were showing? The video seems like it was cut short in the explanation of how the cycle stop valve works better than a pressure switch set up?. In the example used in your video , the flowing faucet was on and the pressure was set to 50 psi in the cycle valve; If the faucet were shut off , the pressure in the house system would return to 80 psi? stop the pump at the 50? Keep the pump on very slow trying to maintain water pressure below 80 psi? Its not clear how this is advantageous when used with a pressure switch. Thanks

Unfortunately we just had to replace our 86gal pressure tank. However, would it still be an advantage to use this valve? Also would it work with a geothermal furnace running off our well? Would that make any difference? I'm attempting to find ways to lower the costs of operating the geo. I believe the well pump is the majority of the operating cost. We have a 3/4hp submersible pump about 150 ft deep.

hello, my well-pump went down last month. Got 80 g tank already installed. Can I still use this Cycle Stop Valve on this big tank?

The expansion tank is their because of the water heater

What if your well only produces 6gpm and you run the washing machine while showering and someone is washing dishes ?Will this run the pump dry ?

My problem is they never stop charging..what's the problem?

So if the pump is running the whole time the tap is on, where is the extra water going that the pump is pumping? The pump supplies much more than 1gpm that the tap uses right? What level of pressure is applied to the pump and the plumbing between the pump and stop valve?

Does this offer any any advantage to a system with a larger tank?

Will the pump cycle on and off if turning the faucet on and off frequently?

Does the tank need to be vertical

Lots of confused folks below. First, motor draw in amperes DOES fall as you throttle the pump output. Fact. It doesn't matter if YOU believe it or not. If you have a clamp-on ammeter you can see this with any pump as it pumps up the pressure tank. When is current draw the lowest? You guessed it: at zero flow. Yes, you can install a bigger pressure tank to reduce cycling of the pump, or a pair, or an entire bank of pressure tanks, but why? You're putting out big bucks and taking up a lot of floor space. To answer one commenter below, yes, you do need a small pressure tank with a Cycle Stop valve. My old 81 gallon tank is about to be replaced with a wall-mounted 5 gallon tank. The floor space I save will be taken up by a second Filox iron filter. When my irrigation system finally shuts off after several hours of continuous running at 60psi, the CSV brings the tank pressure up to 65psi and the pump stops. Steve Maxwell (no relation) is mistaken about one little thing: several pressures are available. The base model, at US$63, can be ordered with a factory set 40, 50 or 60psi setting. Yes, as wu ming mentions below, you can go with a variable speed pump. I was going to go this route but a Grundfos SQE with control box cost C$3400 !!! That's just plain crazy. The pump does appear to be reliable but the control box is notoriously unreliable and costs C$1100 to replace every 3-4 years. That's a non-starter for me. Not acceptable, Grundfos. Restricting a pump's flow does NOT cause "cavitation and vibration reducing the pump's life", gpgt1. You're mistaking this with reduced flow via restricted INTAKE, an entirely different animal. A restricted intake causes cavitation problems and sure does affect pump life. There IS a minimum flow needed past the motor for cooling purposes but CSV's are engineered to meet Franklin Electric and Grundfos motor requirements All you naysayers out there: read up on CSV's at the company website, cyclestopvalves.com Be prepared to spend some time on this as the website is crammed full of reading material. Here's my final comment: irrigation systems are the biggest killer of well pumps, in my 30 years' experience. But frequent cycling for any reason is going to reduce pump life. You can see I was sold on Cycle Stop valves a long time ago and never set up a well system without one.

I believe Cycle Stop Valves have there demand, but they are not right for every situation. I have used many in my installs, but they do put an excessive amount of back pressure on the pump and piping going back toward the well. The creator of this valve has "proven" that excessive back pressure will not damage the pump and the amperage does indeed get reduced during this time, but 125+psi back pressure is not practical and the less amperage is not going to save you a noticeable amount of money...price of CSV and small tank = price of larger tank Again, they definitely have a purpose but are not necessary if your system is not broke.

what if i dont want to install on the tank do i just need to install before the psi switch?

Can u add a reserve tank to the valve

👍🏾

I think you want to say the pump runs as long as water is running. Right? The way you said it made it sound like the pump runs 24/7

yeh but if your pump is running all the time what happens to your electric bill .I have a 1 hp pump and it is 400 feet down and i can see my electric meter spin faster when my comes on and see how much it costs me when it runs through my smart house.NOt fun to get a high electric bill

Is there a way to have it shut off the pump after say 15min? In case a toilet valve didn't close?

My pump screen became plugged years ago and my pump ran 24/7. My electric bill doubled! How is running the pump 24/7 a good thing?

Hi, I'm making a system like this for my house, I have a well. My question is: Does a (CSV) Cycle Stop Valve works the same as a Pressure Reducing Valve (PRV)? If not, what is the difference between these 2 valves?

How do I buy one of these

Didn't explain that while water is being used at the house that the expansion tank is not being filled. When water use is done the tank fills slowly and allows the pump to run. As long as it is not trying to fill a larger tank then it will run long enough but not too long to waste energy!

man, this back pressure should go somewhere, so it goes back to pipes in the well, and you will burst them with 200psi or more pressure, THis thing will save you pennies compare to the fixing of pipes in the well.

So if the pump stays on, wouldn’t your electric bill be crazy high? Also, what if you don’t use water for a week on vacation? Does the pressure hit 60 psi and switch off? If it switches off every time we stop using water, then how is that not hurting the pump the same as with no csv? So confused. 🤔

If the pump runs all the time, do not you electric bill go up too?

This is a misleading title. This will not make your pump last longer. Just found this video and love the sales pitch and the time put into the drawings. If you want constant pressure to home a well with variable speed drive is a very efficient way to achieve this.

The pump will NOT draw "less amperage" if the valve is applying back pressure. Power is Flow Rate x Pressure. If you increase back pressure and keep the flow rate constant....... that increases power draw.

Stop all the grammar, just install a 5000 litre tank and pump will remain off for days

I see so many of these videos promoting this valve, but they never ever talk about the down side. For some users the system will actually cycle on and off much more often than without the valve. If you wash your hands often, for example, the pump will go on every single time you wash your hands. The valve is effective for when you are using the water for a long continuous period of time, like watering a lawn. The valve is bad if you are often turning the water on and off because the pump will go on every time you turn on the water. Not so for standard system.

Your pump is not going to be going on and off? Why not? Every time you flush a toilet, open a faucet for a second or two, use a hose to water a flower pot, the pump is not going to constantly be going on and off? Either the pump is going to go on every single time you use water or the pressure is going to come from the tank, in which case it will decrease. That is why everyone in the world with their own system uses a tank, so the pump will not be going on and off every time they need drink of water, and why this sounds very suspicious.

Reducing a pumps flow too less than 50% it's rated value will cause cavitation and vibration reducing the pumps life. Amp draw is only half the story and anyone working with motors should know that reduced draw means restriction. I can print a chart off the plc and tell you what pumps in my mill need service. Maybe the electricians you talk to wire houses for a living. I work with pumps in the mining industry.

3:00 If you pumps is runs continually where does all the water go??

So this ONLY applies to submersible well pump controlled by one home system? In other words this does NOT apply directly to my situation? I am on a COMMUNITY well so MY setup does NOT control THAT pump...my system only controls what I think is called a "jet pump" that provides pressure that our community well supply does NOT provide ...without the jet pump water only trickles from taps. Does this apply to MY system? I am mystified by all the advice on youtube and from vendors etc ...why does it have to be so friggen difficult to spec the right equipment that will work best??

Well, it will work ONLY with centrifugal pumps, but it will DESTROY any submersive pump which works on spindle principle (mostly used in wells) if there will be no fuse valve (typ. 6bar)... In both cases you push the pump to work on it's limits (to produce highest preasure it can) continuously. This system is just "cheating" the preasure switch by preasure reduction valve placed between pump and switch with tiny bypass (you can buy it much cheaper). I'd not expect it "last longer" at all, the pump simply last shorter. Why? Most pumps are not desiged to run continuously (e.g. there is specified max time it can run continuously and max ammount of cycles per hour), therefore you will overload it after few minutes of continuous run at max preasure.

Cycle stop does not make one bit of difference

With over a million pumps being controlled by Cycle Stop Valves as we speak, in 30 years no one has ever shown damage to a single pump. Just the opposite happens. Some of these pumps have lasted 30 years on a Cycle Stop Valve when they previously only lasted 2-5 years. This proves Cycle Stop Valves make pumps last several times longer than normal. I have offered to replace or pay for any pump damaged by a Cycle Stop Valve for 30 years and no one has been able to take me up on it, because not a single pump has failed because of a CSV. Either show me a pump that was damaged by a CSV or stop saying it will happen, because it never will. People push VFD's because they cost a lot and don't last very long. Over 30 years time you will have spent $7000.00 more on a VFD system than a CSV system for a normal house pump, which is exactly why people who sell pumps try so hard to talk you out of a CSV. A CSV will not, cannot, damage a pump in any way, and I guarantee it. See if you can get a guarantee like that with a VFD. Lol!

Isn’t this just a simple water pressure regulating valve?

Did I hear correctly the pump runs continuously. My pump is over 20 years old if it was a running since day one it wouldn't have made it 10 years. No thanks

MF, If you had any problem with a CSV it is because you are not as sharp as you think and did something really wrong. The CSV is such a perfect pump control that pump manufacturers blacklisted it as a disruptive product in 1993. That means the CSV makes pumps last longer, not the other way around. If you can't understand that this simple valve is much better than a VFD you certainly do not need to be installing pumps, much less something as complicated and troublesome as a VFD. If you have actual proof of a CSV damaging a pump in any way, I will replace the pump and pay your pull and set charge. In 30 years no one has ever taken me up on that offer because there has never been a single pump damaged in any way by a CSV. So, either show me a pump, any pump, damaged by a CSV or stop lying to people to sell your expensive and short lived VFDs.

Biggest piece of CRAP I ever had the displeasure of selling. 30+ years in the pumping industry and like many others I too drank the cool aid. What a POS this product turned out to be. I chuckle each time I walk by their empty booth at the trade shows. And yes I am a pretty sharp guy and understand sizing, adjusting, and the physics of this valve. Never will sell or recommend it again. For those looking for solutions research a (stupid little company called Yaskawa) Pun intended.

Basically the same as if you had to tank, the tank with this system is point less the whole reason for a tank is so your pump won't come on every time there is a need for water, seems pretty dumb to me

My problem is they never stop charging..what's the problem?