What kind or brand works best ??

Thank you for watching.

Yes, you are right. Thank you for watching.

Great to hear!

Yes, I have tried to polish with rotary tool and felt disc for polishing but this only works with hard and durable plastic. Most of plastics will start to melt because of friction, so sometimes when you see this will not work, it's already too late.

@@WhattoRepair hello,can you say please,is difference between coarse and fine big?

@@Rundomguy Yes, after coarse compound plastic is still foggy and scratced. After fine it's starting to get clear and it's almost shiny. Finish compound gives high gloss and ultra clear plastic.

@@WhattoRepair very big thank you,have a nice day

Thank you!

@@WhattoRepair You, sir, are more than welcome. I'm sure that many people have gained something from your video ... and the explanation that you offered. Thank YOU! ♥

You can try dipping it in Future Floor Polish, or spraying it with Tamiya X22 with some Acrylic Paint Retarder mixed in. That will hopefully get rid of the foggy surface by filling in the imperfections

@@WatchinDWorldGoBy Thank you! I see others have recommend the same in the comments too. So, is it normal that I can't get that shine back in the polishing stage? I was thinking I was doing something wrong when polishing or sanding, but keep getting the same results, and don't see what I missed.

@@CyberOcelotRC Did you manage to get better results yet ? I removed scratches on an old cellphone (3310) . The deep scratches are gone, but very tiny scratches remain and a little hazy (but better than original scratches). But not as shiny as the untouched parts.

@BrainHurricanes If surface scratches remain but the deeper ones are gone, you.did something wrong while sanding or buffing, because the lighter scratches should be easier to remove. Go back to high grit wet sanding. Make sure you rinse thoroughly and use and ultra soft lint free clothe to dry. You.dont want to make new light scratches while drying. Stage 2 in Novus or light scratch remover in general should profide the best looking improvement. Remember to rinse clean after EVERY stage and use clean soft rags after every stage. You're prone to creating new scratches during the process. As for the foggy ending, I haven't yet tried cause I have so many projects on my plate. But, my interim solution was to wipe on WD-40 for a temporary shine and hide of haze. That's not the ideal solution of course, but it's good for something temporary if you intend to take photos or video. Seems loads of people are now advis8ng a final clear coat of paint, but that's a commitment, so I bought a sheet of lexan to experiment on. If you get to it before I do and find asolution, please let me know. Ill do the same for you when I get around to it.

@@CyberOcelotRC Maybe that's where I went wrong. I taped off a square around the scratches, but sanded everything dry. Maybe some coarser grit was hiding at the edges of the tape, reintroducing scratches. For now it's fine, better than it was, it's back to the owner. But next on the list are some badly scratched PS1 games. I've already bought polishing fluid (1000, 2500, 3600) and small polishing pads (course, medium, fine). I'll try and let you know how it worked out, but could take a few days/weeks to get to it. To many projects...

"What to Repair" what is this paper that he processes the body?

Can you please explain the process of how you prepare the model for priming?

I guess there are many useful products on the market, but it takes time and money to try all. I found one 3M polishing paste that works pretty much as Tamiya, but its way expensive than Tamiya.

@@WhattoRepair i ended up buying this kit you used on the video on AliExpress. i can't mess up with tese parts

It should work to remove scratches, but it can change shape of lens and have negative effects on eyes. Lenses on glasses are made very precise, even if they are plastic lenses. Specially if your glasses are made just for you, in some optical shop or by doctor prescription. Small change in lenses shape can change focus, distort light or have other negative effects, so I would not recommend polishing glasses. Anyway, scratched lenses on glasses are also harmful to eyes and I think it should be replaced. Polishing should be the last option.

I'm not sure will I make video about that in some closer future, because I'm not working with 3D prints so often. But I have same problems with imperfections on surfaces and there may be a need for such procedures. If I try to get a smooth surface, I think it will rather be a chemical process than sanding and polishing, because I watched some videos on KZfaq about smoothing surface with acetone vapor. Looks easy and effective. I'm not sure is it working same for resin and filament PLA prints but you can try. Search for "smooth 3d prints with acetone". Check this video as guide: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/fr6hrdpqp9bOg40.htmlsi=38haaDSeP0TErmEy

Ako treba nešto samo kaži.

If you ask about thermoplastic polyurethane I'm not sure will it work, because that TPU is soft material, similar to rubber. Polishing works better on harder materials. You can try, it will polish to some degree, but I think it won't be perfect.

I think it will work without sandpaper if scratches aren't too deep. But I would try to find some similar display case with similar amount of scratches and try to polish that display case first. To use it like a testing material. If that goes well than you can try to work on your main display case. But you can't do some big mistake. If polishing compounds only are not enough, in worst case, your scratches will not go away completely, they will just fade.

@@WhattoRepair Thanks a lot

I'm not sure. You can try and see results. I'm also wondering will it work.

Yes, I think it should work.

What material was dial made of? This polishing paste will polish almost every plastic, but glass is very hard to polish. You will need something else for glass.

Yes. That's true.

Maybe it will work.

Maybe you should use sandpaper with higher grit, 4000 or 6000. So coarse and fine paste can remove scratch marks completely.

Yes, I think polishing will work on ABS plastic, it doesn't matter is it transparent or not. But if you plan to paint it and make coating, there is no need for polishing. When you put clear coat on top, it will shine like it was polished. You can use simple car clear coat in spray can. You can use clear coat on every non transparent plastic. Im not using clear coat in this video because when you spray clear coat on transparent plastic, solvents in spray make plastic hazy and non transparent. If you spray any paint and clear coat on plastic, it will look great and shiny, even without polishing.

Look my videos for spraying tutorial, it's easy to use spray cans. It's same principe for every surface.

@@WhattoRepair Thank you for your reply. I'm not sure if I would want to paint it, painting it will make it lose the original look, which is semi transparent black. What I have in mind is to get rid of the scratches, then dye the semi transparent black plastic with a black color similar to what people do to a motorcycle windshield.

Yes, I think it should work on every plastic surface.

@@WhattoRepair Cool, I might try it soon, thanks :)

I've polished mine using this method with good results.

Tamiya polishing compounds have abrasive effect on surface.

Thank for the advice. I will try that next time.

@@WhattoRepair when I did my fiber optic endorsement in my comms course we were taught a figure 8, I guess it's pretty similar to the X pattern mentioned earlier

If I understand what you need, you need polishing real atv vehicle, quad type vehicle, right? It will probably work, but you will need lot of polishing paste, Tamiya makes only small tubes for scale models, and it will be very expensive to polish real vehicle with Tamiya compounds. Its better to search for some polishing compounds in your local stores with automotive equipment and parts. They will probably know better what is best for polishing atv vehicles.

I'm not sure how that plastic looks now, but this technique works on almost anything. You can sand anything off the surface and get starting point for polishing.

I'm not sure. It should polish every plastic surface, I think resin too.

Yes, I think it should work with almost every type of plastic.

Hmm, I'm note sure what you think when you say gloss stuff. This polishing compounds make gloss on plastics. They are not for removing scratches only, you can get high gloss surface on plastics.

@@WhattoRepair OK thank you.

Well, that depends on several factors and it's very sensitive job. You can polish painted parts to get mirror finish but only if you have enough thickness of clear coat. You can't polish paint directly because you will damage paint very fast. When you are polishing clear coat you must use very fine sandpaper (grit 3000 or finer) and after that you polish with compounds. This all depends on how durable is your clear coat. Also, you must avoid polishing edges, you can damage clear coat and paint very fast, because edges have small surface and pressure is much higher. I don't have much experience with polishing paint, I would suggest you to practice on some non-important parts to see what results you will get.

@@WhattoRepair will do. Thanks!

It looks like you have used P1500 too much and P2000 not enough. You must neutralise P1500 with P2000 sandpaper. It's even better to use third sandpaper after P2000, maybe P3000 or P4000 if you can find it in stores. If you still see scratches you must sand again with P2000 and polish again after sanding.

Sorry for late answer but there is a way to restore fresh color on plastic surface. It is normal for plastic to change color with time. Chemicals in plastic cause this effects, but it can be reversed. Red, blue and green colors mostly tends to fade and white turns yellow. Sunlight and heat speed up that process. There are many videos on KZfaq how to restore color of plastic, from Lego bricks to yellow computer keyboards and other stuff. You need to soak your plastic object in hydrogen peroxide and expose it to ultraviolet light. Just pour hydrogen peroxide in transparent container or transparent zip bag, soak your tanker in peroxide, and put it on strong sunlight. Strenght of peroxide ranges from 3% - 12%. The weaker peroxide you use, you will need more time to restore color. If you use 12% peroxide it should be finished after 3-4 hours. On heavy faded parts it can take up to 2 days. Turn your tanker every hour on other side, to expose all sides to light. Usually, its easier to find weaker peroxide (3%), so it will need longer time. If you think color is not fully restored, but you can notice progress, you can continue process another day. You can't overdo with this, it will not damage plastic. And peroxide should be clean, pharmacy grade. If you use peroxide for hair coloring, it often contains additives that can obstruct color restoring.

You need to use sandpaper first and after sanding you must use all these compounds. You need to use coarse compound in the beginning and after that you use finer compounds. If you use only finishing compound you will spend hours and hours polishing and you will not get good results. You don't need to use Tamiya compounds, you can use many other products, but Tamiya is really easy to use and its made for use in modeling.

@@WhattoRepair Thank you

No, I have tried. Even slowest rotation causes to many friction for this type of plastic, and it begins to melt.

That happens when you use clear coat or other chemical that contains solvents. Same will happen if you use acetone on plastic, for example. Not every plastic will react in that way, but most types of plastic will. Polishing can remove that cloudiness, depends how deep solvent got into plastic. Sometimes some chemicals can completely dissolve plastic and destroy it. You can only try to polish and see results. When you use some chemical and you don't know how it will react with plastic, you need to try it first on non-visible spot. For example spray clear coat on something, take little with some brush while it's still liquid, brush that on non-visible part of windshield and see reaction.

@@WhattoRepair Thank you !!!

I think it will not work on rubber, but you can try.

Maybe I will record video about that topic in the future, but I don't know when. Basically you should do the same procedure with your plastic as in this video. I guess your plastic clock is now hazzy and not so transparent. Damage from acetone is only at surface of plastic, so you need to remove that surface layer. I would try only polishing first, without sanding, because you don't have scratches. Sanding is used when you need to neutralize scratches but acetone mostly damages only thin surface layer. If polishing doesn't help, then sanding will be necessary before polishing.

Yes, it should work.

I was trying to use various polishing compounds that I found in my local stores, but none of them was so good. I didn't try all of them, but those I tested were not so good. You need lot of money to test all products on market. So finally i decided to buy Tamiya compounds because I knew they are great, and most of people are using Tamiya compounds. I don't know what else is made for use in modeling. There are probably some good alternative products that could be used but you need to experiment.

I think it should work if plastic is not too soft.

I'm sorry, but jewelry and watches are not something that I do on my channel, and I don't have experience with something like that. Polishing compounds that I use are made for softer materials like plastic, you will probably need different compounds for glass and metal.

Have you used all three compounds?

I think you can polish acrylic too.

I'm not sure. Is it deformed on sun or is it some other type of damage? Can you describe shape of that acrylic? What is it used for?

@@WhattoRepair it's not deformed. It's the windshield of a car model (1/43 scale) that was exposed to the sun and whitened, became opaque, as if it were moistened. There was also an acrylic casing protecting this model from dust, apparently made of the same material as the windshield, that also became opaque

I would try with hydrogen peroxide. 3% peroxide can be used to clean old yellowed plastic. You need to submerge entire windshield in peroxide and expose it to ultraviolet light. If you don't have strong uv lamp you can put it on strong sunlight for several hours. People use that method to restore color of old Lego bricks, or other bright plastic parts. There are lot of videos on youtube. Im not sure will it work but you can try.

@@WhattoRepair thank you sooo much, I will give it a try

I never had chance to work with ultem, but it is high strenght resin so it will probably work. It's not good to polish soft plastic but hard resins are suitable for any kind of polishing.

@@WhattoRepair thank you for your reply it's not so much that I wanna polish it I just would like to remove the micro scratches you only can see them under a bright light I'm just nervous about sanding it and making more scratches what sand paper would you recommend thank you

@@mattieeyes8066 If scratches are really small you can start with paste, without sanding. If you are sanding use grit 2000 paper, or finer, like 3000 or 4000.

@@WhattoRepair yeah they are small scratches at first like you wouldn't see them but when you hold it up to a light you can see them and because I paid so much for it, it drives my OCD crazy lol so you think a paste would work without me sanding it I might try that before considering sanding it then what paste would I need?

@@mattieeyes8066 yes, I think it should work without sanding. If you are going to use Tamiya compounds, then use all three, coarse, fine and finish. I don't know what can be used instead of Tamiya compounds, they are the best I've used so far. Easy to use without rotary tools and you can achieve very high level of gloss. When I started to use Tamiya, I wasn't searching anymore for other products.

Yes, I think it should work.

Unfortunately, Tamiya doesn't reveal grit of their compounds. They only classify them by type: coarse, fine and finish. I would like to know too, so I could maybe replace them with some cheaper compounds. I tried many compounds from local stores with car polishing equipment, but none of them worked so good.

Yes, I think it will remove stains. I cleaned some other plastic stuff and it should work on this plastic too.

Of course. Size doesn't matter 😆

I don't know. I would like to know that too. I tried with several products, mostly 3M paste, but every paste was too coarse. I was trying with alternative products in the beginning but I was only wasting my time and money so I decided to try Tamiya compound, because everyone I watched was satisfied with Tamiya. And they were right, I'm satisfied with results too.

Thank you for yrs reply 😍😍

@@WhattoRepair Try toothpaste (not gel, paste)

@@williamread720 I tried toothpaste but I didn't had any good results. I even tried to polish scratched cds with toothpaste, because you can see everywhere on the internet advices to polish cds and dvds with tootpaste, but that didn't worked too. Are you polishing something with tootpaste? Did you had any good results?

As far as I know, polishing compounds are the only good way to get proper results. I was trying to restore some windsields with clear coat and it works if it doesn't damage plastic. Clear coats have solvents inside and some plastic will be melted, but there are some plastic that will not melt. It's very risky work. Compounds are much safer for plastic.

I don't know what that material is, but it sounds too soft for polishing.

I'm sorry but I can't give you answer, because I don't know how those Transformers toys look and what material is used. You can only try and see results.

Scotch brite maybe would do some job, but it will not be fine as grit 1500, not to mention finer sandpaper. I think you will need something after scotch brite and before polishing paste. You can try only with scotch brite but there is no reason to avoid sandpaper. It's cheap, easy to work with, you have full control over grit and you will have great results.

@@WhattoRepair I see. Thank you for the answer

I'm not sure, but you can try. It should work on every plastic surface if plastic is not too soft.

When you polish with finishing paste, you need to polish until all paste is used and parts are completely clean, so there is nothing left to wash. You can wash parts but there is no need for that.

I have never polished resin but I think it will work. You can try, you can't destroy anything with this paste.

Yes, you can! 😆

I'm sorry, I'm not sure I understand your question. What is bick plastic?

Bick side panels

Thanks for suggestion. I will try.

Unfortunately, Tamiya doesn't say anywhere what grit are compounds. Coarse compound is recommended to use after 1500-2000 grit wet sandpaper or other abrasive material, on some websites say that can be used even after 1000 grit abrasive, but I wouldn't recommend that, it will be very hard to remove scratches with compounds after 1000 grit sandpaper. So it is higher than 2000, some people say that coarse Tamiya compound is best to use after 3000 grit abrasive, so it can be possible that coarse compound is more than 3000 grit. After sanding with 2000 grit sandpaper you use those 3 Tamiya compounds in correct order, coarse, fine and finish. I believe that fine compound is more than 5000 and finish is more than 8000 grit, but that's only my guess, I'm not sure. In fact, I can't find any polishing paste with grit labeled on package or in manufacturer's documentation, so I can try polish with other paste and compare with Tamiya.

thanks👍

I found it on Ebay. You can also buy compounds on Aliexpress.

Yes, you can polish Lego windshields in the same way.

Yes, but every difference is worth using finishing paste.

80/20 rule, or the Pareto principle. 20% of the (right) effort gets you 80% of the way. If that’s cool, then that’s cool. But getting that last 20% sometimes means a skosh more effort, and that might be worth it to some folks.

I was polishing windows from several cars. This was only example how to polish plastic. Windows were removed from cars long time ago and they were in boxes with spare parts, so I dont know anymore which car they belong to.

No, it's polishing paste, made only for polishing plastic surfaces.

Hi, you can contact me at sloboje@gmail.com if you want to send some products.

Yes, that's exactly what I'm doing, sanding in one direction, I didn't wrote in one way. One direction means you can sand up and down, not up, down, left and right, or in circular moves. I'm moving sandpaper slightly to side during sanding, but I'm not using pressure during side moves. Pressure is used only when sanding up and down.

@@WhattoRepair can we use the polish without using sand papers?

I don't bite my nails. I just cut them before every recording, because I hate to see people on youtube with long nails like an eagle.

No, this is only for surface scratches. If you polish surface crack is still visible. I'm searching for solution for cracks in windshields, I will make a video when I find something.