Please Post YOUR SOLUTION below if you feel it is better than mine to help others that may find themselves in my situation, let's help one another! Thanks! - MSFN

Another 2 methods that work on that style straight shank is drill and tap the end like you did , then just screw in a slide hammer. This prevents dings from hammers hitting chuck. If it’s a Morse taper shank, and you don’t want to destroy it, drill and tap 1/4-28 thread thru inside of chuck into tapered cavity. Then, install small 1/16 NPT grease zerk. Use grease gun to extract it hydraulically. Then insert small 1/16 npt plug into hole after. Then, you can remove anything after that. They don’t need to be assembled with a 50 ton press either, just light tap with brass hammer. Cheers

I have been struggling with wedges for a couple days. Thanks for the idea. I cut the end of the arbor off, drill and tapped 1/2-20 thread. A piece of tube, a long bolt and an impact wrench finally freed the oppressed arbor from my 18N.

I think that "logo" is an arrow that indicates the direction of the blade's rotation.

Excellent, it always amazes me how well a taper holds

Another nice learning journey shared and thoroughly benefitted by us all. Your experiments and efforts worked eventually for us to use some day That Albrecht Chuck is worth every cent and exactly the struggle U put in for it. Thanks again ATB aRM

Since my first reply I have had to change what I did in order to get a couple of them out. Two ways I have had to do it differently: I bought a used 14N chuck and it was mounted for a milling machine arbor. That thing was in there like you would not believe. I tried the wedges and nothing, I tried drilling the end (inside the chuck) and using a press, No luck either way. I ended up using a grinder and cut off wheel (This arbor was hard as flint and carbide inserts where getting chewed up trying to get it) and cut it as close as I could to the chuck and this exposed the softer material inside. I then put a piece of hex stock in my lathe chuck and grabbed the other end with the drill chuck and drilled the arbor until I felt there was only about 1/4" left in depth, then I set my compound to the taper and thinned it as much as I felt I could without hitting the chuck and used a rod and press to get it out. The second one was a 20N chuck with a #4 MT so I was in your position here where the Jacobs taper was larger than the morse taper on mine so I again placed a piece of stock in my lathe and then tightened the chuck to it and turned the #4 morse taper to 1" diameter for about 2/3rd's of it's length and then single point threaded it to 1"-8tpi, I then made a spacer out of pipe like you did and used two grade 8 washers with grease between them as a thrust washer and tightened the nut. I took it out of the lathe and then hit the tang end of the arbor with a hammer which released a bit of tension allowing me to tighten the nut more, After a few times of this the arbor came free of the chuck. It had a Jacobs brand arbor and the material in them turns freely, actually some of the best metal I have ever threaded.

I ended up having to do the same thing (used drawbar/pipe) to get mine out. You were a great help! Thanks

Bloopers were nice touch! Glad you got it off. Joe

I knew you'd come up with a solution, well done!

Very interesting solution. Nice job

These chucks are quite easy to dismantle and you can do it with the arbor in place. Once you've got it apart you can access the other end of the arbor and bang it out with a punch. In extremis you can warm the chuck component to loosen it. As long as the chuck is dismantled and you don't go nuts with the heat that'll be fine.

Where there is a will, there is a way. Good job.

And thanks for the bloopers at least you’re keeping it real..😎

Once you drilled and threaded the straight shank you could have just used a suitable length of pipe between the back of the chuck and bolt head/washer, and used the bolt to pull it apart (same as when extracting suspension bushes) - no wedges required. But it worked out OK so well done. Cheers Rob

Plan D, if all else fails... I once used a drill chuck to mill with an endmill. but the side load removed the chuck from the taper. They can't hold against a side load. Try putting in in a spindle and chuck a bar in the drill chuck , spin it and put a side load on the bar.

Oh boy, that was stuck on pretty good. I think I would have machined out the taper shank if it was that stuck on :D

Had you loosened that retaining collar at the top of the chuck? It’s there to retain the chuck so it can be used for milling.

Great job amigo!

MSFN you did a great job by being steadfast and not surrendering to the obsinate part! remember, machinery is 90%obstination and 10% inspiration!!! thanks for sharing with us all.

I was thinking of tapping the outside of the straight shank & using the pipe you made with a nut & washer. As you tighten the nut & washer against the pipe, it should pull it out.

I came to the party late! I had the same saw for years- bought it in 1990. It is a Chinese saw, imported to the US by Grizzly (I think- I in Australia.?).The "Logo" is just an arrow showing direction of blade rotation. The modern equivalent from Grizzly is part # G0622.

Hope you are doing well. I have the same problem. Jacobs 4 taper on 3mt stub. the JT4 is bigger than the 4MT so no lip. Tang twisted off 4MT. Maybe I can chuck it to some stock in the lathe chuck and turn off the twisted off tang section and drill and tap as you did. Hmmmm. Thanks for the video.

I might be mistaken but have you undone the collar on that Albricht chuck, its got a small screw that conpresses it on to the audour, the arbour will not come off without removing it?

U r a smart man yay 😊 thanks

I think you did well :-) job done ;-)

Richard--great lesson in perseverence! As others have mentioned, the bandsaw is generic Chinese. I have one the same color, same casting marks that is marked "Ram Machinery." I think they were sold under a variety of names, however. The castings are similar or identical to the Harbor Freight $250 bandsaw Item #93762.

I see Florida has become a bit drippy :) I giggled a bit about the direction arrow. By the end of the video I was cheering for your viking-like use of two war hammers to get-er-done :)

Unless you wanted to save that old arbor, jacobs recommends to drill a cross hole thru the arbor in a location to suit the wedges to drift out the arbor. Works well but does pretty much ruin the old arbor. Start with a small hole less than half the dia. of the arbor, or the arbor could split at the hole an give less to work with for removal.

I wonder if a 4 jaw may have held it? My luck usually is like yours in the video!

Standard wedges didn't fit a random Chinese chuck I had, so I made a custom pair using a hacksaw, MIG welder, and angle grinder. I did not yet own a mill, then. In this situation, I would make a shaft collar from some random bit of plate or disk, or even a stout bar, large enough to be stopped by a piece of pipe just larger than the chuck. Clamp arbor in shaft collar, drop chuck in pipe, use inertia/impact to separate the two.

I may be mistaken but I thought that the knurled ring, the one cosest to the taper, acts as a clamp. By undoing the cap head screw that tightens up the split, the knurled ring no longer clamps the taper. You're left with overcoming the frictional/rust forces that are keeping the taper in place inside the Albrecht chuck. The undercut groove in the taper might allow you to fit one of the smaller taper removers to act against the shoulder of the undercut groove. That leaves you with an eigth of an inch or so of clearance to the back of the Albrechet chuck that can be filled with one of the larger taper wedges.

What a good idea, I would not have thought to tap a hole. Good one there, I am trying to think if here would be a way to use a longer pipe sleeve then use the threads on the bolt you installed to pull it out by turning the bolt into the hole. Thus pulling the two apart. Don't know if that would work but if this comes up around here I am going to try extending on your idea. Thank you a very good one this time.

I would be on plan q by now 😢 quit, nice perseverance and effort.

looks like a harbor freight bandsaw to me, i have 2 of them and they are wonderful

Hey sure you helped me i have for long time already 2drill presses because of i cannot remove one jacobs 13 for 16 going to try the trick so i can get rid of one drill press

I would have tried 1. reducing the spot where the tapers fit to the size taper I had or 2. drilling a hole for a cross-pin rather than drilling and tapping the end. Either way would leave the shank re-usable in the future and would have been fairly quick. The bandsaw is a dead ringer for my old Harbor Freight one. The newer ones have a hole drilled for a pin to keep it in the vertical position. It is also a good idea to stiffen the bottom so it is more stable. I put angle iron on each side and a shelf in the middle to hold bits. Made a huge difference.

Static threads will hold a LOT more than twisting threads. I am not sure if the 5/16" threads would have held. I had to take the pivot pins out of my Camaro tilt steering wheel. They were tapped 10-24, I believe or maybe fine thread. Just pulling with the bolt would strip the threads off of the bolt. I even tried a stainless bolt. Same thing. So, I cut the head off of a stainless bolt, took a 1/4" bolt, drilled and taped the threaded end for the same as the thread of the pivot pin, screwed the "stud" into the pivot pin, put my spacers on then screwed the 1/4" bolt onto the other end of the stud. I held the head of the 1/4" bolt with one wrench and ran a nut down on the 1/4" bolt to pull the pivot pins. The stronger bolt threads easily pulled the pivot pins and no threads were damaged.

Interesting; I have the exact same brand chuck and the straight 1/2 arbor. I am going to drill and tap the end and use a pipe slightly longer than the shank. No the exact same solution but one that was suggested below. Thanks

mscdirect / Grainger sells Albrecht wedge kit. It's little different then Jacobs...for stubborn one like yours... I found that if you use heat * no more then 250F* ( I have old toaster, 5~10 min) and take a can of compressed air (the one for cleaning keyboards, etc) flip can upside down and it will spray liquid *freon* ( warning frost bite possible) anyways.. Spray bunch on the arbor (Only arbor not chuck) *it will shrink arbor/shaft and break tide seal* now you can slide wedges if needed and it will come off without any resistance..

Well done sir.

That logo is the marking of Harbor Freights Central Machinery model band; Idk that its limited to them alone, but for sure the HFT metal band has that marking

Bro 🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥💯😎😎

Never seen that solution before it worked. I thought you would have to use a hydraulic press to press it out from the inside of the chuck.

Is it possible to push the spindle out using a press stand, I'm thinking about doing this because my chuck has a hole all the way through.

I drill a 13/64" hole cross ways of the shank and run a piece of 3/16" round HSS through the hole (close enough that the wedges will be trapped between the HSS and the chuck) then close the wedges in a vise and the chuck comes right off. I have done this several times and it has worked perfect every time. I'm sure you could get away with just about any 3/16" rod as long as it has some temper to it.

heat

Is there a screw in the chuck?

Hit it sideways ,thats tapers weakness they are great for axial loads since it pushes taper into each other ,not so great for radial forces it loosens it up -thats why you don't mill with taperd chucks -unless its a taper with tread. ,you could use a jackhammer(smaller like drill version-i don't know name in english) for extra vibrations.

P.S. I have a similar band saw like that here in the UK. It’s quite common - basically a Chinese job that badged engineered for different suppliers. I got some spare from Clarke under the guise of a CBS45MD 370W if that’s any help. I managed to download a parts list after searching the web. J.

Success... my first thought was to make a spit collar with set screws about an inch or inch and a half long with set screws so it could clamp on the straight section of the shaft...

I just disassemble the keyless chuck. Once the jaw holder screw is removed you can use a punch or even a press if needed to punch it out from the inside.

i have the 12'' delta drill press don,t know to take chuck off

I have a metal cutting bandsaw exactly like yours and mine was made in China and bought at one of these giant tool sales like they have in parking lots, at warehouses and sometimes on streets down town. Mine does not have a name or manufacturer on it either but what you are calling a logo I think is an arrow cast into it to show the direction of the rotation of the blade to assist in putting the blade on in the correct direction. Sorry I couldn’t help you any more.

Thats no logo it's an arrow to show the direction of the saw blade

I was thinking you could of cross drilled the shaft, put a dowel pin thru to push off of. in the end, it all worked out

no hold that taper in you hand and tap the chuck with a small (not sledges like yours) hammer just once its the side-wards blow that breaks the seal

Just a thought.... isn’t that a locking screw in the collar? Good to see how you tried different ways of getting the job done. Thanks for sharing. John

Where do you get the wedges? I’m happy for you, you showed a lot of imagination.

That saw, got one RAM MACHINERY.

Ok one tip make sure you fix your vice to the work bench

might be a Sterling. I think the 'logo' 2:30 is just an arrow for direction of the blade. This saw appears to be a common casting for many different manufacturers.

That bandsaw is your basic made-in-China 3/4" blade horiz/vertical bandsaw for under $1,000. The logo is an arrow showing blade direction. I assume its identical to the RongFu 712N that I have

I believe that's a blade directional rotation Arrow. I don't think that's a company logo

You forgot to yell 'STUPID THING' after it popped off! ;-)

Well done, I've never tried to remove a chuck from a straight shank but I'm sure that it would have involved a Big Hammer and Fire : ) Don't power tap with your keyless chuck...not good for the chuck.

A little late to the party, but I was thinking since you weren't planning on keeping the shaft, I would have turned it down and used the #1 wedges

Well.... I am up to Plan C with mine. Tried 4 jaw, it fails as well. Tried drilling hole and using a pin, the washer bent. (May have worked if I had wedges at the time. Tried using some angle scrap.) Now waiting for set of proper wedges in the mail. Will post results of my Plan C efforts.

Is there some reason You Tube has removed your video? Black screen is all I am getting for this (Jacobs Taper). Seems a couple other channels have a segment doing this also. Take care. Doug

Now for the harder question, how do you remove a morse taper (Doesn't have a tang) from a tailstock if it is stuck?

Where can i buy this wedges i dont want to make it by my self.

would not a gear puller work?

Heat often helps. Also, you weren't cursing enough.

Just a guess but, that looks like a Harbor Freight bandsaw. I was thinking Grizzly at first due to color but, a KZfaq video showed an HF that was really close to yours.

I'm thinking that you have the large model band saw that is sold by harbor freight.

Greased, rusted into tapper for long time. Put vinegar and soda powder that can some acids to loosen residues inside the chuck -tapper

Liquid Nitrogen?? on the arbor?

King Canada metal cutting band saw

Bolt that damn vise down! Lol good job not backing down from that fight.

I know it's years later. Should have started with Kroil and let creep into the chuck taper.

I've been busy.. Was looking up my chuck to show someone what they will do and found this.. When you get your mill, or want to upgrade your drill press, check out this chuck.. The Ultimate Keyless chuck.. Change your drill bits on the fly without stopping the rotation.. I don't think they make these any longer, but, some one might be.. I have a 3/8" and a 1/2" version.. Check out this video, and put it on your "one Day List".. Ha.. Cheers my friend!! kzfaq.info/get/bejne/o9iBnbmHys7HeX0.html

Rather than the work involved in drilling, tapping, I'd have welded some scrap to the end, then if the old straight arbor was to be kept, then simply grind it off again.

LOL what is this portavise ?

Wells

9:40 I'd say he lives in sunnyville

My problem is that my taper is in the drill press and won't come out.

Dont know if you got your answer but the bandsaw is china made in largte numnbers and companies put their own name on it. Just got one myself. And fighting with a jacobs taper too :)

I believe that is a grizzly bandsaw

I gotta ask, why not just disassemble the chuck and tap it out? I don't understand the wedges.

More then one way to skin a cat, Problem is not everyone owns a cat skinner. AKA : I don't ahve the machines you do or machine shop I can work with this stuff in. A differnt way to remove it might have been a steering or pulley puller, or you could grind on it hit it with Ice cold Dry Ice heat the chuck and chill the shank, this will unwedge the parts or should. Soak it in wd40 for a few days and hope it helps Grind flats on it and try to turn the shank using shock hits with a dead blow hammer. My problem is the drill press dosn't have a Morres taper shank drill chuck, the drill chuck spins on the arbor, and inspection inside the chuck does not show a screw or allen cap bolt. A: how do I get it off B: how do I make it solid so I can use it as a drill press and not a chunk of metal taking up floor space? This is a cheap delta knock off drill press from China. But it has a solid quell unlike the new crap they are making.

That’s working on an old piece of equipment for you. Never goes as planed and then you need to get creative. Idea worked damn good though.

I would have welded the pipe to the spindle and have at it

The last time I dropped a drill chuck like that it landed on the jaws and all of the internal gear teeth shattered like glass :'(

Am I the only one who can't keep the F bombs in check? I let several out just watching this video.

Plan A, the Chuck on the lathe could have been repeated, incrementally...

You placed your wedges on the wrong end of your collar, thus they got "wedged" into place. If you had used them on the end adjacent to the lathe jaws, they couldn't get captured, and the collar would push directly against the chuck.

Jeez.. wedges ALWAYS fit... you just need a BIGGER hammer !!

Not a logo, blade direction!

why not drill a hole thru the taper shaft , stick a rod thru it to give you leverage??? wth?

un screw the collar