Thank you for your story as these things are always heartening to hear. Just wait till you catch your first fish on it. ;)

same exact thing happend to me. First time I ever lent my rod to a inexperienced friend he snapped it trying to unsag it.

Actually epoxy has some flex to it. Over 50 years ago I broke my first fly rod while showing it off to a friend. I fashioned a spigot and epoxied it in place. Over 25 years later when I gave that rod away, the repair was still holding. All of the wraps on a rod are covered with epoxy. It will last.

I'd trim most of the worst off as I'm always concerned that a crack will travel up the blank under load. We can lessen the problem by wrapping and epoxying. I'll be covering that in the next video. If we look at the fly rod spigot ferrule setup, there can be a gap of upwards of 3/8s of an inch between the sections, so I wouldn't worry if there's a gap showing after the jagged bits get trimmed off. Just make the spigot and the inner section long enough to provide support. If you were a bit worried about the section being under too much stress, we can go to a triple layer spigot, using two inner sections of decreasing length. It'll be very strong across the gap, but the staggering of the lengths of the sections allows it to bend smoothly under load.

I'd taper the spigot to fit the misaligned pieces. Awkward, but it'll work. I'd then wrap with thread and epoxy the joint well.

Put a pot of water on the stove with a level just high enough to cover the butt of the rod. Once it's boiling, immerse the butt of the rod and that will soften the glue holding it place. Of course it's now hot, so have a rag or something to protect your hand. Grab the well cooked butt piece and pull it off. Make the repair and then epoxy the butt piece back on.

@@hooked4lifeca Can't wait to try it. !! Thank you. Come fish Cleveland steelhead any time you wish. Free guide service included.

Do a good job on the repair and I doubt you'll notice anything when casting it. Probably the only effect will be you going easy at first. The advantage of this style of repair is that the rod continues to flex through the repair.

@@hooked4lifeca thank you! Is it necessary to use a double layered insert as you do here, or is it just as fine to use a single layered insert? I intend to sacrifice a fairly short and stiff carbon fibre bass rod.

@@DanielSwe93 Unless the donor rod has a thick sidewall, I'd go with the doubled spigot.

@@hooked4lifeca What about the difference in taper between the two rods? There will probably(?) be a small gap between the spigot and the blank. Will the glue handle this stress, or is it super important that there is no wiggle? In that case, how to handle that wiggle?

@@DanielSwe93 I sand the spigot to a close fit then make sure that the joint is well filled with epoxy, then no wiggle.

I'd select a wood screw that is longer than the ferrule and drill a hole in the stuck piece all the way to the end. The hole should be the same diameter as the shaft of the screw as we don't want the screw expanding the wood and making it more difficult to remove. Then insert the screw, leaving enough of the head to grip with pliers. Then apply heat (heat gun, hot water, etc.) to the ferrule to soften the glue. Grip the screw head with pliers and grip the ferrule with the foam lid removers we use for jar lids. That'll let you get a good grip on the ferrule with ought damaging it or burning yourself. You should be able to pull it apart. If not, keep applying heat until the glue breaks down.

It's preferable so that the stiffness of the blank doesn't change too much through the repair. That said, my first spigot repair was in 1970 when I broke my first fly rod while showing off to a friend. I used a small, hardened steel shank that was a good fit and epoxied it in place. The repair was still holding when I gave the rod away 20 years later.

How much of the tip is missing? That's the key thing, for if only a little bit is missing, we can just add a new tiptop and go fishing.

Its about 7inches from the tip, but i dont have the other piece to the rod. The rod is a medium heavy so i think putting a tip on there would be too heavy for a rod of its size

@@SPaw-dg3ye You're probably better off just fitting a tiptop to the end of the rod as it is now. It will change the action, making stiffer and less sensitive. It'll be more of a heavy instead of an MH, but it will be fishable. You should be able to find a new tiptop at any shop that sells rod building supplies.

Okay, thx a ton!

The problem will be to get the spigot out of the blank. This is a risky process, but the alternatives it to pay for a new section from the rod company, assuming the rod is still available. 1: drill a small hole in the broken end of the spigot, the length of the spigot, big enough to accept a screw 2: screw in a long wood screw into the hole (for gripping & heating purposes) leaving about a half inch exposed 3: dip the end of the rod section with the screw into boiling water 4: make sure that the screw head is in contact with the bottom of the pan so that it transmits heat to the inside of the spigot 5: remove the rod section from water, grip it well and gentle tap the head of the rod screw with a hammer to break the grip of the epoxy holding the spigot - try to drive the spigot into the blank 6: if it fails to move, put it back into the boiling water 7: keep repeating until the spigot drops free 8: if necessary use a cutter to snip off the head of the screw to allow the spigot to drop out of the blank 9: using the old spigot as a model, fashion a new spigot and epoxy in place.

@@hooked4lifeca so the last part we will make the model just like this video right? Fortunately my rod is a 4 piece spigot ferrule rod and I can just take that part and try to experiment with these instructions; because, I wanna save some money as I don't have the money for the replacement part at this time and not till probably till March of next year. This pole Is used to catch Mahi, gt and such like fish species from the cliffs lol.

@@ryansullivan9519 yes, except that if you're after Mahi I'd layer that spigot so that it is almost completely solid, a spigot, in a spigot, in a spigot etc. You'll need the strength.

@@hooked4lifeca I was thinking the exact same thing

Depends on the inside diameter of the section. If it's too small for a graphite spigot from a donor rod, then consider getting some piano wire from a hobby shop, that is close to the right diameter, and sand it to a taper to fit. Piano wire has the necessary elasticity to function as a spigot.

@@hooked4lifeca ill give it a go. Also the break is just above a guide. Which are single for guides. Would placing the guide evenly across the break be a good idea?

@@bobb3rdown676 Yes, placing a guide across break definitely helps as it acts a reinforcement.

Yes we can, it just takes a very long probe to push the spigot in place, plus we have to remove the butt cap from the handle. Boil the butt cap off. Been there done that.

@@hooked4lifeca my butt cap has a synthetic resin attaching a faux leather/composite piece. . .don't think boiling will work but maybe I can just cut it off and then epoxy it back on and hope I don't break my rod again. Thanks for keeping me thinking how I will achieve this 😉

Follow up: I drilled a small hole in the end of my rod, worked like a charm!

@@brent829 Excellent!

Garage sales are often a good opportunity. Also fishing stores that do rod repairs often have remnants of blanks laying about. One shop in Mississauga used to have a bin full of old rods.

Yes, but more difficult. We have tl remove the butt cap to enable us to slide the spigot in place, plus we must have doweling or an old rod section long enough to push the spigot in place.

$30.00 for a donor rod is no biggie if the broken rod originally was north of $500, and no, I won't be sticking a piece of doweling in in such a rod. The repair is relative to the value of the rod, whether sentimental of in $$$s.