Just a note, the retaining bolt is actually a 23mm socket, not 24mm. 24mm will work though, but might slip occasionally. Love the videos, thank you for all the effort you put into them!

Just happened on this video and sure took me back in time! 43 years to be exact. I bought a brand new '74 CB 550. Metal flake orange. I don't think the oil ever got dirty in the 4 years I rode it. Really enjoyed riding back then but I'd be scared to death to ride now. Thanks for video!

Thanks for your videos, I just purchased a 74 CB 550 and I am in the process of cleaning it up to ride. Your videos have been extremely helpful.

Just picked up one of those test lights at the local auto store, can't wait to try this and see if my timing is set correctly. Looks pretty easy. I was able to check my valve clearance after watching one of your videos. A lot of this stuff isn't that difficult. Just did my first carb clean and carb sync recently too.

Hey man, just want to thank you for making this video. It really helped me out with the timing part. Love other videos you made as well. Awesome!

Be sure to adjust the points first. Also, you can just use a multimeter without having to buy a light. Also, it's a good idea to replace the condensers (cheap) when you adjust the timing.

Years ago on a CB750 I owned, I had an aftermarket point set that used Delco (GM) points that could be adjusted with an Allen wrench and then set with a dwell meter. I checked timing with a timing light. This was the same set-up I used with my 71 454 Vette.

Japanese motos of that era do not use Phillips screws, they are JIS screws. Get a set of JIS screwdrivers to avoid camming out/messing up the screw heads.

Always set point dwell (point gap) with dwell meter first on each set of points. Then adjust timing with a stroboscope (timing light) with engine running. This can show the actual ignition timing above 2500 rpm (full advance) which is where your engine will spend most of it's operating life on the highway.

Great video men right on point!

Great video and helpful.....Thanks!!

Hey classic, I have a 83 NH cb550 but under my timing cover looks completely different.. is there another cover to get to this?

Would this be the same process for a 97 cb750? The manual says to open the left crankcase well the insides look completely different and oil spilled out lol (in the manual it didn't show oil )

Awsome. Thanks!

I just picked up a 74 cb550k thats been sittong for years! I got it running but only stays running on choke and giving it gas. Do I need to adjust carbs? I don't know what I'm doing. I need some parts for it, am I able to find parts for a bike this old? Clutch isn't engaging even when i lift the piece on motor that cable connects to. Main concern is keeping it idling on its own. Any help is appreciated. Thanks

Would this work with any older bike? Same technique? I got a 78’ Kawasaki kz650 and pretty much have the same similar points as your CB

I think I broke or stripped my timing nut. How do I fix that or am I totally screwed? Thanks for any info and love your vids!

I just got a cb550ss 76 it ain't ran in years and it isn't getting a spark at all I don't have a battery in it im just using the kick start can you help me??

Any info on wiring a 72 cb500 as of now I have 1 green and 1 black coming from the points n that's it

Hi I am a new subscriber and new to bikes. My 1975 cb 550 leaks gas when it’s turn off through the bottom and it won’t stop, what could it be?

thanks!

for the last couple years i've been having hard time getting the F mark to line up with the case mark, using a strobe after setting the dwell both points , so the backing plate is snug in it's races, advance mechanism is good, fresh stock advance, again with the strobe the F mark is to the left of the case mark, i'll rotate the plate clockwise, as the mark travels towards the case mark it just never makes it there, and as soon as i touch the plate to return it the mark jumps to almost the full advanced double marks. the motor then is stumbling i'll return the plate back to the other side. and the f mark comes into view but to the left still. applying pressure to the plate from different angles 1, 5 and 9 o-clock i can get the mark closer. then 2&3 check it's vibrating ( i understand that may be due to the bolt that fastens the advance mechanism and the "special" nut not being centered. if everything comes together, and 1 bump to the plate anywhere sends it to the scenario above, then it's difficult to get back. any ideas?

solid video, thanks!

Any thoughts when the test light won't come on at all, no matter how the adjustment? The key is in the on position. Is there a way to test if the capacitors are bad?

my CB 650 has electronic ignition. Is it the same procedure ?

Hey my 1&4 is off but 2&3 is on. what do you mean by turn the plates? just turn the plate the around the slot of the screw or turn 360 until the light go on

With electric ignitions, is the timing process still the same??

I have the mark between the T & F on 1-4 lined up with the mark on the motor. But when I twist the plate the light never turns off. It’s always on no matter what the position of the plate. Do I have bad points? Or?

When trying to do this exercise, as soon as I attach my test light it lights up and stays lit regardless of turning the crank. It does this even with the key OFF! I'm guessing I've got a ground issue. Unfortunately electrical isn't my strong suit. Where do you recommend I start?

Question to all you gear heads, I've got a 1975 xl350 almost the same as this bike. I got spark at the plug, good compression, fuel going to the carb, all is good! Except it won't fire, could my timing be the problem ? Any suggestions guys?

Why didn't you match the permanent mark with the advance mark on the plate?

Good vid on timing, what about setting the point gap?

My problem us my light stay open when i adjudt 1.4 with big plate 🤦‍♂️

So my light is staying on full circle for 1-4 and 2-3 do I have a short somewhere?

Just did this on my 78 cb550. 1-4 were perfect. 2-3 stayed lit the entire crankshaft rotation. I checked wiring. Bad condenser? Bad coil? I noticed on the way your points are wired, the 1-4 blue and green seem to be on the same side of the screw. My PO has the ground on the head side of the screw and the positive on the nut side. Matter?

What if your turn the rench counterclockwise rather than clockwise will that affect it in a negative way

En español no hay nada?

my kick start isn't moving it. what does that mean

Dumb question, but when you're using your test light, should the key and start switch be on?

Thoughts on electronic ignitions?

So does this process eliminate need to set / check timing with a timing light?

Setting 1-4 no problem , but 2-3 showing out but I can't get light to come on !!

Man, we have to drain the oil before that?

Awesome.... BUT..... Remember: Those are NOT Phillips head screws and you should NEVER use Phillips screwdrivers on these Japanese bikes! Those are JIS screws, and JIS screwdrivers should be used (and NO, JIS and Pozi-Drive ARE NOT the same thing)...

YOU HAVE TO SET THE POINTS FIRST .. YOU SHOULD SAY LINE THE F WITH THE STATIC CASE MARK NOT BETWEEN THE T AND F LINES.. ALSO SOMETIMES YOU HAVE TO GROUND THE MOVABLE PLATE WHEN LOOSE IN TESTING OR THE LIGHT WONT GO OUT . CAUSE IT HAS A POOR GROUND,,

There should not be any Philips screws on a Japanese Bike. These are JIS Screws ;-) And you better use an JIS screwdriver.