Did my first ever Clutch rebuild on my CB550K. This video was invaluable in the details. What I made mistakes on was the learning event. I found I needed to remove the Footpeg, Brake pedal and the kick starter. I needed to understand the fine points of adjusting the cable at both ends. Even the rear brake needed to be adjusted at the end. I'd never have the courage to do this without this video, it proved to me that the job was within my capabilities. I love the feel of a clutch that works like new! It allows me to feel confident riding this bike in all conditions. I lost confidence for a while, but got it back with a bike that responds to my touch.

I forgot to say, thank you for the video man,excellent and to the point!!

Awesome vid, thanks for posting. Im about to change out my '78 CB550 clutch and this covered pretty much everything I needed to know. Cheers!

thanks for this VID! I have used at as a reference for quite a few 550 clutch jobs.

Thank you for making this video. I will let you know how it goes!

Would really like to see more videos on the CB550. Very helpful. Thanks.

Ty sir,saved my day.

Oooh dude. Just noticed another thing, the steel plates were put in upside down. They have a knife edge on one side of them, and the other side is rounded off. (you can feel the sharp side with your fingers on the teeth) the plates were designed to have the sharp side facing outward from the center of the bike. Watching how they were placed, they are now on backwards...Perhaps it will do nothing.. but if you have any weird clutch behavior in the future thats what I'd recommend you check out!

You're right, it doesn't mention it in the Clymer manual (not sure which one you're using) though I was advised by another professional to do so. And when I did a clutch ring replacement, the plates indeed had the opposing sharp and dull sides he mentioned.. Anyways keep the videos coming duder, great stuff.

Excellent video

thanks for watching!.. the plates are soaking in oil. you dont want to install them in dry.

Keep it coming excele

I had to drill out cover screws on my cb550 stator cover and front sprocket cover. Do you know where I can buy replacements?

yeah, i will check it out.. i have never noticed any edge. i have changed a bunch of clutches and i dont think i have noticed that. i looked in the manual and it doesnt say anything about installing the plates in a particular way. thanks for looking out!

Can you elaborate on how tight to tighten the 4 bolts holding on that backing plate thing please?

Very nice video. About to do same...

Do you really have to pull the entire clutch assembly? It seems that after the 4 bolts you can begin replacing the clutch plates.

What do you have the plates soaking in? Btw, awesome demos! Thanks for the info!

I'd use a hammer with a plastic head to knock the cover loose. Prying it off with a screwdriver like that can damage it, especially if its really on there. If you damage it where it seals, then it may never seal correctly again. just a heads up

Gotcha. Thanks!

Good video,a few things tho.....don,t ever put a screwdriver between a oil sealing surface to pry it open, that is a major nono. No offence meant 25 years as a redseal motor cycle mechanic/chop owner.

Quick question: I notice you say "Don't over tighten these bolts," when reinstalling the bolts that go through the springs. I may have installed mine too tight (torqued down as far as they would go), and I think this because when I shift into any gear from neutral, the bike wants to kick into gear, even with the clutch lever pulled in (and the clutch arm is properly adjusted, dots are lined up). I haven't put it in gear while it's running, but when the bike is off and I go from neutral into first, the back wheel wants to engage, even with the clutch lever pulled in all the way. I can hold it and it will stay in place, however it definitely gives a good amount of pull for supposedly being disengaged - so much so that I fear I might be ruining something internal (clutch or tranny) or like the bike would have stalled out if it was running. Just thinking through what these bolts are doing - compressing the springs that would release the clutch when the lever is pulled while in gear - that seems to be the most logical explanation. I just wanted your feedback since I am working with new discs and springs (old plates, but all in good shape), and not sure what a new clutch should feel like. How tight is "tight enough?"

So the 550F clutch is a little easier than the 750 clutch to remove? I watched the Hack A Day clutch video and the center bolt was more challenging to deal with. How many miles are clutch plates rated for, in general?

The impact driver MUST have JIS bits. They look like Philips, but aren't. Philips bits will cam out and ruin the screws.

Aw dang, got a part number for that washer?

not sure which washer.. i think you mean the one on the clutch basket behind the clip... that's not really a washer.. its a super thin spacer that is used to keep the basket from moving too much.. they can very in thickness. i dont know the part number or even if you really need it... its like paper thin or even thinner.

How tight is tight enough on the bolts compressing the springs? Should the clutch lifter plate ride flush to the face? I notice that the compression on the springs is relative to how much the clutch lever can move...

You need to drain the oil to do this? It's hard to put my bike in neutral and it's hard press and pull to get to 1st and 2nd

Hey man these vids are great thanks I am taking apart a cb 500 four motor... I'm guessing they are pretty similar? does any one know?

What did you use to replace your points ?

No lubing? If you soaked the plates in oil overnight, they'd last longer.