I truly appreciate hearing that 🙏 my dad always said “I can afford to live the way I do because I fix everything myself”. That man had ALL the tools 😁 Loved growing up with him. God bless you my friend. Thanks again for sharing.

I do see that Suzuki now recommends 7500 gap check, 15000 mile change. Crazy! It’s like they applied an arbitrary 7500 mile interval to all of their bikes and just left it there for many years regardless of technology change. Thanks for the note! It’s a joy to maintain your own machine 😎💪👍 I’m glad to hear you’re all over it. Your bike will reward you with many miles of service. Appreciate the feedback 🙏

Thanks Ze Doc 🙏👍

Indeed! Each butterfly is being opened or closed independently of the other butterflies until it’s smooooooth.

It took 3 or 6 times before I realized that lol

That doesn't apply to this bike. No paint on any of the sync screws. The factory manual even says remove all of the screws and clean them if having trouble setting the sync. It recommends turning them in until they gently bottom out and count how many turns so you can return them to the same general point. None of them are defined as the master. And none are tied or sync'd to the ecu in that way. The trick is to sync until idle is 1350 and all vac levels are equal. Once you have a rock solid idle, then you can sync at higher rpm.

​@@sstressfl I thought all bikes had that. As far as I know most of them do.

Hardy 1 you are right, some are... this one is not 👍 peace my friend! Stay safe!

Dylan O'Sullivan on the gsxs750 you start by syncing idle at 1350. It’ll idle like a solid perfect sewing machine when you’re done. However I have found that doesn’t effect or help buzziness at the higher rpm cruising speeds. So my next step after setting my idle is to then sync at around 4000 rpm. It makes the idle a little lumpier but it makes the road riding smoooooth as silk. I’ve syncd both ways and sync at 4000 rpm is so much better. But again, start at idle. Once you have that rock solid then sync at higher rpm. Your butt will thank you 😊😎 And yes at normal operating temp and then rev the bike sloooowly so you don’t suck the fluid out of your sync tool.

@@sstressfl cheers pal 👍

Dylan O'Sullivan cheers my friend ✌️

@@sstressfl Hi. I was told by a motorcycle mechanic to Balance the carbs at idle not at high rpm. The moment you start to open the throttle, the synchronisation of the carbs becomes completely irrelevant

And I was told by a mechanic that I was giving away all of his secrets 👍

Chris Vallis thank for the comment! are you a bike mechanic?

They fit on perfectly 💪

Ive gotten better in my more recent work. Thanks for the feedback.

@@sstressfl awesome! Great video and thank you for taking the time out to help us fellow bikers 💯🤟🏼

Xisco CB my front suspension hasn't been touched. Factory setting. But the rear spring rate is 2nd from the softest setting. Some rough roads in Vermont. Enjoy!

I’ll assume you did the break-in oil change. Are your header pipes turning a darker color? If so it could be a lean condition. Check your spark plugs. Make sure they have not loosened up. And if your checking your chain alignment with a tool and you’re sure it’s aligned, try one more check... with the back of the bike in a stand, remove the chain guard, then turn the rear wheel by hand and check for chain side load. Is it pressing hard to one side of the sprocket? Push it to the other side and turn the wheel by hand. Does it push back to the same side quickly? It should float neutral. Wandering to either side lightly. If not, adjust until it does. Once you have the chain truly centered, it’ll feel like a new bike. And of course proper chain tension is a must. Not too loose not too tight. And of course, a good throttle body sync always brings smoother operation. Hope one or all of those things help out! I look fwd to hearing back!

Michael Byrne So just looking at the headers this morning the first 4 inches are a gray / brown color, then it turns into the yellowish standard pipe color. I’m trying to get an ECU Flash done (long story but apparently my ECU on the 18’ is a pain) and then get a tune done. I’ll give the plugs a check this coming week. For shits and giggles I’m running some seafoam in the gas and I lubed the chain a bit more as well. Going on a ride back home in a bit. I’ll keep you posted. I appreciate the help.

JJ pipe color sounds pretty normal. I look fwd to your update! Hope you find that smooooooth power again 🙏👍

I'm having issues with idle surge.

I always start with a tune up. Pull a plug to see what color. Make sure air filter is clean. When’s the last time you replaced the fuel filter? Cleaned the fuel injected? Did you get gas recently? Bad gas maybe? Also have you ever sync’d your throttle bodies?

Firdaus Zainal nope! No sync required. But you might need to adjust your fuel ratio. If your bike is properly maintained and you feel like the engine is getting more buzzy, a sync might be needed.

@@sstressfl thanks 👍

Not a problem! I live in the woods in rural VT. Misfire huh? Could be a throttle body sync issue... dirty air filter... spark plugs... failing coil... valve adjustment. Start with the easy stuff first! Hope you find it!

TurboNeon185 I read the same things! The factory manual says “idle”. I saw a tip from a forum somewhere to sync at 4K and decided it made sense and I wanted to try it. Could not believe how much smoother it was at speed. I set up a house fan in front of the bike to help with cooling. I work quickly. And I move the throttle very slow to avoid sucking the sync fluid into the intake. It’s the way I do it every time now. BTW, I always start by setting the idle sync first. That is my starting point. Then I sync at 4K. If your bike is silk at speed after syncing at idle then by all means do not bother with a 4K sync. But mine felt terrible. So I did it 😎👍

@@sstressfl Copy that. I've never done it at all but I will be soon which is how I came across your video. I'll see how it feels after sync at idle and go from there. Now I watched your valve adjustment vids cuz I'll be doing that soon as well. 👍

TurboNeon185 I hope you’ll come back and let me know how the sync went! I’m curious to know what you experience..... aaaand I’m working on finishing the final valve video! Coming soon 👍 Thanks for your comments my friend. Ride safe 😎🙏

@@sstressfl Yes sir. You too.

@@sstressfl Something I read early about that sync tool just clicked in my head and I wanted to bring it to your attention. When you calibrate it at idle hooked only to one cylinder will the four measurements stay level at 4k rpm? Even though they are all receiving the same vacuum I don't think they will. And if that's the case wouldn't it be better to calibrate at the rpm you want to tune at? Just a theory.

Hey!! When I sync I adjust for idle. I make it as perfect as I can, idling at 1350 rpm. Then I adjust again for 4000 rpm. The idle gets more choppy but the bike is smoother at speed. Is yours smooth at speed!? If so that might explain why the idle is a little choppier.

@@sstressfl wow thanks for the reply! Anyway, yes, the engine sounds as smooth as before when on speed. It's just that it's annoying to hear the idling sounding rough.

@@n00bracer I guess its also possible your engine needs a tune? Spark plugs every 7500. Fresh oil and filter. The air filter gets gunked up very fast! Its so small! Also if you have enough miles on it it might need a valve clearance check. Hard to tell without hearing/feeling it myself. But those are my best guesses :) Enjoy and be safe! :)

@@sstressfl Spark plugs have been replaced and oil and filter. Air filter's clean as well though I haven't checked the valve clearances yet. Regardless, thank you so much for the suggestions!

Yikes... so just after 500 miles (assuming you mean your first break-in oil change) your bike is shaking so hard that the headlight is moving up and down? Wow I hope its safe! Without being there, my suggestion would be to call the dealer first. If they are willing to look at it and give you their opinion on the fix for free... then do that. You can decide to fix it yourself or let them at it (hopefully under warranty, but usually not if its maintenance related). If they want to charge money to look at it, then at least try some stuff on your own. I'd start with the basics. Is it just motor? If you pull in the clutch and coast at idle while it's happening, does it stop? If yes, then start with a tune up... and definitely check your plugs. I discovered mine were all loose - like seriously-hand-tightened-loose - at 600 miles. My headers were turning black. Loose plugs caused vibration and a serious lean condition. The bike ran much better after they were properly torqued. And yes, if you have the money for a syncpro, get one. Longterm, you're gonna need one anyway and its a good thing to check now. After my sync, things got a whole lot smoother and more powerful. Hope you fix it! Vibration makes bike no fun.

Sonic Moto what kind of oil did you use?

Castrol Power 1 10W-40 4T full synthetic

I'd say it's a noticeable shake, but not violent that i'm out of control by any means, but for sure noticeable. I was able to bump the rear pre-load up a notch and it calmed that down quite a bit. I'll check some of the suggestions, sadly the dealership I purchased from is 1.5hrs away so it's a long trip and no warranty but I can add one for $800

If suspension tweak helped then most likely not motor, heh? Seems weird it started right after the oil change. When you squeeze the clutch at speed and let the motor idle down, does it stop? I'm interested to know what you find.

I haven't used that method. The factory manual says just sync the thing and set your idle to 1350 (do not turn the idle screws that are painted!!) Just work to balance the throttle bodies until it is smooth as silk and sitting at 1350 rpm. I hope that helps!

Following manufacturers instructions 👍 I’ve been tuning cars since I could drive. Sitting in your garage with the engine running without an air filter is not going to cause damage unless you drop something down inside 😮 Also, by design on this engine you cannot access the screws on the front of the throttle bodies with the air box installed. Professional mechanics do it the same way. All good my friend!!

Dude yes feel free! Send me an email at michael@clickthruvt.com

Michael Byrne would mind if I do the same?

I mean this one www.motosport.com/motion-pro-replacement-adapters-for-syncpro-tuner

Michael John Fitness not at all 👍 I stored them away.

I always start with making the idle sync perfect. Then I adjust for higher rpm. I've done it both ways and the higher rpm adjustment is always smoother at riding speed.

Depends how you ride, if you sit at stop light often and want smooth idle or you running at cruise speed with vibration as sync at idle doesn’t mean will correlate with sync at cruising rpm’s. I always do my sync at cruising rpm’s as most of the time I ride in that range of rpm’s and want to be smooth at that point, not at the idle 😉

Sonic Moto looks like a good tool. I read about some folks losing their blue fluid due to evap. I capped mine off in hopes of keeping it. We shall see.

@@sstressfl I capped mine and it still evaporated. I bought the refill kit and it doesn't perform the same as it did when I first got my motion pro. The fluid is not solid, it has air bubbles that I can't get rid of. Just ordered a carbtune.

@@Gixxerdude1k it sounds like you have a vacuum leak somewhere in the tool. Mine is still full and no air bubbles. I’ve had it for years now. Hope the carbtune treats you well 👍

@@sstressfl checked it with a mighty vac. The quick fluctuations seem to cause the fluid to break up as if there is air bubbles in it. I think the original fluid was a water based and this in a mineral oil base. I got it from motion pro web site. Seems to now flow through the tubes as easy, like it grabs the sides.

@@Gixxerdude1k hey that sound better! You can use those brass inserts to redice the draw of vac pressure and it will cause the fluid to stop dancing around.

Thanks man!! Some folks say "Fuel Injector". But I didn't think that made sense. FI indicates the presence of an error and it needs to be scanned to find the specific error. Correct?

Trying to find out what wrong with mine, it's good now though

Me too 👍 which is what I did and it made my idle silly perfect sewing machine smooth. But no effect at speed. If anything it was worse at speed. So I tried syncing at 4000 rpm. It was silky smooth at speed. A mechanic sent me a note and said I was giving away all of his secrets. It’s also how all the seasoned riders I know sync their bikes. Do what you want. But it works. BTW, I still sync for idle per manufacturers instructions until my idle is perfect at 1350rpm. I use that as my starting point. Then I sync at 4000.

My bike runs great but I'm having issues at idle where it surges up and down constantly. And I have no clue what is causing it. So I been looking for anything online with not much luck I'm just shooting in the dark.

I just did a tune up. Plug air filter oil change I didn't see any vacuum line off or see anything wrong. The bike runs absolutely amazing just at an idle it surges up and down. I adjusted the tps sensor I'm kinda shooting in the dark

@@dennystoutzenberger1212 are you stock or have you changed something?

The previous owner had the stock exhaust decatted and then had it tuned.. that's it as far as I know