Thank you so much for the feedback 🙏

There was a time when I thought the head mount cam was a smart way to make videos.

Barry Weaver excited for you! The bike will make your man cave even better. Thanks for the kind words :)

On its way. Should be live tonight. Thanks!

The "how-to" video is now live. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/e6hyos-Bq7jXhY0.html

lol

Hey that’s cool! Glad I could help 👍🙏

If I understand… you can calibrate it now and first sync for idle. 1350 rpm is the spec on my bike. That will be your baseline. Once idle is solid sync for 4000 rpm.

jake whitehead I wish I had an answer for you. Perhaps there is a crack in the tool and it’s causing improper air flow? Can you exchange it?

I saw the computer related stuff in the manual.. and I was so frustrated. Then I read a blog post about another Suzuki owner (different bike) who said that stuff isn't required and he had success with his sync so I decided to give it a try and was blown away and completely excited by the results. I always start by setting the idle to silky smooth perfection. Then sync for high rpm. I have never had an idle problem in any temp.

have you done a valve adjustment? if you do a throttle body sync and a valve adjustment, you may stall out sometimes on cold starts, especially as the bike gets older and all the F1 sensors sending signals to the ECU start showing their age. theres a dozen sensors sending info to the ECU to control how much the IAC valve opens.

hostilityy bikes wear out! That's why we maintain them so we can continue to enjoy them.

Here is refill instructions: www.motionpro.com/download/motion-pro-syncpro-fluid-refill-instructions I grabbed the instructions from the bottom of this page: www.motionpro.com/product/08-0581 Hope that helps man!

I simply use the vac line from the first throttle body. You just need a vac source. And also, when youre tool is sync''d, start by adjusting the throttle bodies to 1350 rpm idle (assuming you have a gsxs750). Make it perfect, equally level vacuum. It'll sound like a sewing machine when its dialed in. That is your starting point. Then adjust for 4000 rpm.

I’m sorry I missed your message… I have never done it before but I found this video. I hope it helps kzfaq.info/get/bejne/e6lybK-Y3NvLlYk.html

I start by making my idle perfect. When idle is set I calibrate for 4000-5000 rpm. It can take quite a few back and forths before its solid. You'll notice that changing one port can effect another. It takes slow educated guesses. The more you do it the more you start to get a feel for it.

​@@sstressfl My bad. I'm saying my rpm is set at 4500 and I calibrate the tool then twist the throttle on the bike a little and then let go off throttle returning the rpm back to 4500 and the calibration never lands in the same spot its always out of calibration. I see that people are setting the calibration and then removing the mani. without ever checking to see if it lands in the same spot (calibrated) they just disconnect and hook to carbs assuming it will stay true.

Joseph Jefferson if I understand.... i calibrate the tool at idle then tune. Is that what you’re doing? Or are you calibrating the tool at 4500?

@@sstressfl My rpm is set at x amount and I calibrate the tool just as you show here, then I twist the throttle on the bike a little and then let go of the throttle returning the rpm back to x amount. The calibration never lands in the same spot it appears to need re-calibrated after a throttle blip, it's always out of calibration after the rpm changes (adjusting the synchronization on a bike will change the rpm) I see that people including you... are setting the calibration and then removing the supplied mani, hooking up the lines to each intake port without ever checking to see if the metering tubes land in the same spot (calibrated) after the rpm vary, they just disconnect and hook up to the ports assuming it will stay true. If at x rpm the gauge is calibrated and then the "throttle" is changed (of course without sucking the fluid out of the metering tubes) then the gauge should still be calibrated when the throttle is returned back to the original rpm correct? mine does not. I wonder how many other syncpro gauges do not stay calibrated also and they just aren't realizing it because they do not blip or vary the throttle after calibrating??? Thanks

@@ironcitymotorsports2102 Ok I get it! They might all do that. But the fact is, if you calibrate, don't blip, just move to the next step, it works beautifully :)

mike216ism yes, fuel injection! And thank you! Nice 150hp bike you have there 👌

@@sstressfl thanks. Did you find any throttle body's that needed a tune?

mike216ism absolutely. I have had to retune numerous times.

@@sstressfl why is that.

mike216ism the engine changes over time especially when it’s new. I can tell when it’s needed when harmonic vibrations increase. Then it’s good for awhile. As the engine gets older, more miles, I haven’t had to do it as often. But after the valve adjustment I just completed I needed to do it again. It’s becoming a quick procedure. Worth doing 👍

Did you lose fluid from your SyncPro? Do you need to refill it?

kzfaq.info/get/bejne/e6lybK-Y3NvLlYk.html hope that helps!

SPORTBIKE RACER 6mm adapters are an optional accessory. Around $10 👍

@@sstressfl so u mean we have to buy it separately? Because most of the Yamahas are using 6mm adapters

SPORTBIKE RACER this is what it says: Includes hoses, 5mm adapters, in-line restrictors and instructions 5mm adapters are used on many Honda and Suzuki models Optional 6mm adapters are available for use on most Yamaha models Most Kawasaki models do not need adapters.

@@sstressfl thanks man, will update you once I got it. How is your sync pro doinh

SPORTBIKE RACER it’s been solid! I keep the ends of the hoses covered with a little electrical tape to avoid fluid evap. Seems to working 👍 I look fwd to hearing about your experience. Ride safe my 2 wheel brother 🙏

I’m sorry to hear that man. Sounds like a vacuum leak somewhere. Maybe you can return it and try another one? Mine has been solid for a couple years now.